soldering lead flashing
 

I want to make a section of lead flashing to wrap around an external
corner. This requires a soldered joint or two but I can't find out how
to do it. I'm a fairly experienced DIYer and not afraid to learn
something new. Can anyone tell me how to join two pieces of lead
please? Thanks

In article ,
alterego wrote:
I want to make a section of lead flashing to wrap around an external
corner. This requires a soldered joint or two but I can't find out how
to do it. I'm a fairly experienced DIYer and not afraid to learn
something new. Can anyone tell me how to join two pieces of lead
please? Thanks

I'm not an expert by any means, but most lead joints tend to be just sort
of bent double, interleaved, then dressed 'flat'.

To solder lead isn't difficult, but you need special solder called
plumber's metal which melts at a lower temperature. And to be very careful
not to melt the lead. Otherwise, it's the same as soldering anything.

--
*Microsoft broke Volkswagen's record: They only made 21.4 million bugs.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
alterego wrote:
I want to make a section of lead flashing to wrap around an external
corner. This requires a soldered joint or two but I can't find out how
to do it. I'm a fairly experienced DIYer and not afraid to learn
something new. Can anyone tell me how to join two pieces of lead
please? Thanks

I'm not an expert by any means, but most lead joints tend to be just sort
of bent double, interleaved, then dressed 'flat'.

To solder lead isn't difficult, but you need special solder called
plumber's metal which melts at a lower temperature. And to be very careful
not to melt the lead. Otherwise, it's the same as soldering anything.

--
snipped

===============
You also need the correct flux - ask at your plumbers' merchants when you
buy the solder.

The 'lapped' joint described above (by another poster) is probably the best
way to go unless there are special circumstances.

Cic.

In article ,
Cicero wrote:
You also need the correct flux - ask at your plumbers' merchants when you
buy the solder.

I used Fluxite - which is a fairly standard engineer's - rather than
electronic - flux, and that worked ok.

The 'lapped' joint described above (by another poster) is probably the
best way to go unless there are special circumstances.

Yes. A skilled lead worker seems to be able to do most things without
soldering. I found it easier than all that beating. ;-)

--
*Geeks shall inherit the earth *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

alterego wrote:
Thanks all for replies. Lapping the joint isn't really a practical
option because of the complexity of the shape which runs in three
dimensions. Leadmate is an option and I've already ordered some but
will try soldering first. Practice is obviously the key so I'll
have a go with my small gas blowlamp and see what sort of mess I
can make of it.

A big mess, with a blow-lamp - you will get on better with a
soldering iron, if you can get one to fit your lamp. If not,
a chunk of brass, or bog copper soldering iron that you heat
up, or a big electric soldering iron will bne better. You
need a *small* but hot flame for lead work.


J.B.

Thanks all for replies. Lapping the joint isn't really a practical
option because of the complexity of the shape which runs in three
dimensions. Leadmate is an option and I've already ordered some but
will try soldering first. Practice is obviously the key so I'll have a
go with my small gas blowlamp and see what sort of mess I can make of
it. Much appreciate the advice. Bob

In article ,
alterego wrote:
Thanks all for replies. Lapping the joint isn't really a practical
option because of the complexity of the shape which runs in three
dimensions. Leadmate is an option and I've already ordered some but
will try soldering first. Practice is obviously the key so I'll have a
go with my small gas blowlamp and see what sort of mess I can make of
it.

I managed fine with my trusty old Camping Gaz blowlamp. Pros use other
types because of lower running costs - not necessity.

--
*I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Jerry Built wrote:
You
need a *small* but hot flame for lead work.

IMHO, that's a recipe for burning straight through it for the not so
skilled. An ordinary blowlamp works just fine - you move it back and forth
across a small section of the part to be soldered.

--


Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Jerry Built wrote in message .. .
alterego wrote:
Thanks all for replies. Lapping the joint isn't really a practical
option because of the complexity of the shape which runs in three
dimensions. Leadmate is an option and I've already ordered some but
will try soldering first. Practice is obviously the key so I'll
have a go with my small gas blowlamp and see what sort of mess I
can make of it.

A big mess, with a blow-lamp - you will get on better with a
soldering iron, if you can get one to fit your lamp. If not,
a chunk of brass, or bog copper soldering iron that you heat
up, or a big electric soldering iron will bne better. You
need a *small* but hot flame for lead work.


J.B.

Advice well received Jerry. I have a piece of brass rod about 15mm
thick and 25cm long which I will cut to provide a shaped tip and add a
heatproof handle! I presume I only need a block about 50 mm long as
anything much bigger will take forever to heat up. regards Bob

Just to let anyone still following this thread that my home made
soldering iron worked a treat. Bought lead flashing and solder wire
from Wickes. Applied flux to joints and heated iron with gas blowlamp
until able to melt solder. Then applied iron to edges of joint and
allowed solder to run onto lead. Then reheated iron and "smoothed
over" the rather blobby solder so that it ran into joint. End result
may not be the neatest piece of soldering ever seen but it's sturdy
and weatherproof. When it's on my roof I'm sure the appearance will be
secondary. Thanks for the help. Bob

In article , alterego
writes
Just to let anyone still following this thread that my home made
soldering iron worked a treat. Bought lead flashing and solder wire
from Wickes. Applied flux to joints and heated iron with gas blowlamp
until able to melt solder. Then applied iron to edges of joint and
allowed solder to run onto lead. Then reheated iron and "smoothed
over" the rather blobby solder so that it ran into joint. End result
may not be the neatest piece of soldering ever seen but it's sturdy
and weatherproof. When it's on my roof I'm sure the appearance will be
secondary. Thanks for the help. Bob


Well lets have a picture then:))
--
Tony Sayer

On 3 Sep 2004 08:49:51 -0700, (alterego)
wrote:

End result may not be the neatest piece of soldering ever seen but it's sturdy
and weatherproof.

For moderate values of weatherproof. You _may_ see cracking problems
with a soldered joint in roofing lead, especially if you used 60/40
solder (or hopefully not, lead-free solder for potable water ) -
that's why it should really be welded (aka lead burning).
--
Smert' spamionam