Greetings,
The Sikkens web site is less than clear to me...

Can anyone help a newby and clarify the useage and differences between:
Cetol HLS, Cetol Filter7, Cetol THB, Novatech and Novatop?

I'm considering one of the above, or Sabrina Oak Oil (www.oakdoors.co.uk) as
a finish for a new, exterior, oak door.

Any general thoughts / comments on appropriate finishing als welcome!

Thanks,

Mike A.

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 09:42:47 +0100, Mike Abbott wrote:


Greetings,
The Sikkens web site is less than clear to me...

Can anyone help a newby and clarify the useage and differences between:
Cetol HLS, Cetol Filter7, Cetol THB, Novatech and Novatop?

I'm considering one of the above, or Sabrina Oak Oil (www.oakdoors.co.uk) as
a finish for a new, exterior, oak door.

Any general thoughts / comments on appropriate finishing als welcome!

Thanks,

Mike A.

I would not use any of the Sikkens type treatments or any other
varnish for an exterior oak door - you will ruin the appearance.

I have a front door and frame (plus other joinery) manufactured by
Sabrina - and excellent they are as well.

For the outside of the front door (which is somewhat exposed but under
a porch), I have used the Sabrina oak oil to excellent effect.

I maintain it once or twice a year as follows.

- clean off dirt with vacuum cleaner - I use air line as well but not
absolutely needed.

- wipe down with rag soaked in water/detergent.

- wipe with rag soaked in white spirit.

- apply oak oil moderately with a brush and allow to soak in for ten
minutes.

- wipe off excess with a rag.

- apply a second coat of oil after a few hours and wipe off.


Total time taken is an hour, tops, and the results are excellent.

The inside of the door is stained, shellaced and polished with beeswax
- different effect.

Either way, please don't use varnish on natural oak - it's sacrilege.
:-)








..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

replying to Andy Hall, Roy Peebles wrote:
Sikkens is not a varnish. It is a hydrporous wood coating which allows the
timber to breath. An excellent product for a hardwood door.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...oak-96963-.htm

On Tue, 19 Jun 2018 17:14:04 GMT
Roy Peebles m wrote:

replying to Andy Hall, Roy Peebles wrote:
Sikkens is not a varnish. It is a hydrporous wood coating which
allows the timber to breath. An excellent product for a hardwood door.


After 14 years, it might be worth asking him how it worked out!

--
Davey.

In message , Davey
writes
On Tue, 19 Jun 2018 17:14:04 GMT
Roy Peebles m wrote:

replying to Andy Hall, Roy Peebles wrote:

After 14 years, it might be worth asking him how it worked out!

He would need an Ouija board :-(
--
Graeme

On 19/06/2018 21:04, Graeme wrote:

replying to Andy Hall, Roy Peebles wrote:

After 14 years, it might be worth asking him how it worked out!

He would need an Ouija board :-(

No argument in this case ...

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 09:42:47 +0100, Mike Abbott wrote:

Any general thoughts / comments on appropriate finishing als welcome!

Oil alone isn't really an adequate finish for a front door. It's OK
for some external oak, but a door is just too obvious and needs
something that looks a bit more "finished". I'd suggest either a _gel_
poly varnish, or a Danish oil.

Gel polys are applied by wiping with a rag. Because they're applied so
thin, two coats in a reasonable finish, but it doesn't have the ugly
plastic look of most polys.

Danish oils are a generic term for oil + varnish mixes, and there's a
lot of difference between brands. They have more UV and weather
resistance than plain oils. For best results, try a yacht chandlers -
there's a range of decorative wood finishes of the danish oil variety
that are intended to look their best even if this requires re-coating
every few years for best appearance (depending on how much weather you
get) Avoid "spar" varnishes though, those are intended to be proof
against movement and often don't look particularly good close up. As
they're only a small varnish component, then you can re-coat these
easily in the future without needing to strip the old finish.

You might even use an extra-hard formaldehyde floor finish (Rustin's
floorcoat), then knock the gloss back a little with rottenstone or
pumice. Because it's so hard you can do this, whereas a poly is too
soft to really allow surface matting.

Another trick (in the appropriate situation) is just to ammonia fume
the thing and make it look old, then apply a plain oil finish and
allow it to work its way through to ancient.

--
Smert' spamionam

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 15:01:04 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 09:42:47 +0100, Mike Abbott wrote:

Any general thoughts / comments on appropriate finishing als welcome!

Oil alone isn't really an adequate finish for a front door. It's OK
for some external oak, but a door is just too obvious and needs
something that looks a bit more "finished". I'd suggest either a _gel_
poly varnish, or a Danish oil.

This really depends on the degree of exposure of the door.

If it is frequently subject to driving rain then I'd agree that Danish
Oil would be a good choice - I like it as a finish.

However, if the door is reasonably sheltered (e.g. under a porch) then
plain oil is absolutely fine IME. The Sabrina stuff is natural
turpentine, boiled linseed oil and beeswax. I find that I need to
do a quick maintenance job 1-2 times a year on my front door and it
continues to look great,.




Gel polys are applied by wiping with a rag. Because they're applied so
thin, two coats in a reasonable finish, but it doesn't have the ugly
plastic look of most polys.

As a matter of interest, do you know of any UK brand names for these?
I've seen them in the U.S.



Danish oils are a generic term for oil + varnish mixes, and there's a
lot of difference between brands. They have more UV and weather
resistance than plain oils. For best results, try a yacht chandlers -
there's a range of decorative wood finishes of the danish oil variety
that are intended to look their best even if this requires re-coating
every few years for best appearance (depending on how much weather you
get) Avoid "spar" varnishes though, those are intended to be proof
against movement and often don't look particularly good close up. As
they're only a small varnish component, then you can re-coat these
easily in the future without needing to strip the old finish.

You might even use an extra-hard formaldehyde floor finish (Rustin's
floorcoat), then knock the gloss back a little with rottenstone or
pumice. Because it's so hard you can do this, whereas a poly is too
soft to really allow surface matting.

Another trick (in the appropriate situation) is just to ammonia fume
the thing and make it look old, then apply a plain oil finish and
allow it to work its way through to ancient.

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 02:47:08 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

This really depends on the degree of exposure of the door.

Agreed.


The Sabrina stuff is natural
turpentine, boiled linseed oil and beeswax.

What a bizarre combination. What's the wax doing in there ?

Gel polys

As a matter of interest, do you know of any UK brand names for these?
I've seen them in the U.S.

Not many - they're certainly rare over here. Easiest to find is
Screwfix's "Patina".

--
Smert' spamionam

On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 11:34:59 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 02:47:08 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

This really depends on the degree of exposure of the door.

Agreed.


The Sabrina stuff is natural
turpentine, boiled linseed oil and beeswax.

What a bizarre combination. What's the wax doing in there ?

Mmm. I know. Works well though, and does seem to extend time
between treatments. I've used it indoors for various joinery and the
floors.



Gel polys

As a matter of interest, do you know of any UK brand names for these?
I've seen them in the U.S.

Not many - they're certainly rare over here. Easiest to find is
Screwfix's "Patina".

Ah OK. I'll check into a few of the U.S. vendors and see if they
have distribution outside the U.S.




..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...

[snip]

Any opinions on, and experiences with, Rustin's Flexterior
(http://www.rustins.co.uk/ext_coat.html#fl_ext) on external oak?

--
Andy