Plasterboard scrim and skim
 

Hi, simple plasterboard question with luck:

What fixing plasterboard on wall studs and ceiling joists, is it OK to
screw the plasterboard on, cover the joints with scrim tape, and skim,
or, is it better to fill all the board joints with bonding plaster
before taping and skimming?


--
Cheers,

John.

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Hi, simple plasterboard question with luck:

When fixing plasterboard on wall studs and ceiling joists, is it OK to
screw the plasterboard on,

Yes that is ok


cover the joints with scrim tape, and skim,

Yes that is correct

or, is it better to fill all the board joints with bonding plaster
before taping and skimming?

No the adhesive Scrim we use now, will not adhere to a damp surface.

If you were using the old cotton Or jute scrim that was the way we did it

Kind regards
Edward

ESmillie wrote:

No the adhesive Scrim we use now, will not adhere to a damp surface.

Good, that saves a job ;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

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"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
ESmillie wrote:

No the adhesive Scrim we use now, will not adhere to a damp surface.

Good, that saves a job ;-)
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Just mention:
On TV recently saw use of a fibreglass mesh tape that is slightly sticky and
is applied to the joint BEFORE any plastering mud is used.
With other tapes AFIK usually some mud is applied to the joint and the,
typically perforated paper, tape is stuck to that initial application and
'smoothed' into it with the trowel.
Further applications of mud (plaster), as many as two or three more, finish
the joint. Metal is best for 'outside' plaster corners. Terry.

Glen wrote:

I believe the mesh tape you saw is the scrimtape used almost exclusively in
the modern building trade for years now.

The stuff I have is fiberglass mesh, slightly tacky on one side.

--
Cheers,

John.

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On TV recently saw use of a fibreglass mesh tape that is slightly sticky
and
is applied to the joint BEFORE any plastering mud is used.
With other tapes AFIK usually some mud is applied to the joint and the,
typically perforated paper, tape is stuck to that initial application and
'smoothed' into it with the trowel.
Further applications of mud (plaster), as many as two or three more,
finish
the joint. Metal is best for 'outside' plaster corners. Terry.

I believe the mesh tape you saw is the scrimtape used almost exclusively in
the modern building trade for years now.

Glen

The stuff I have is fiberglass mesh, slightly tacky on one side.


Yup thats the stuff! :)

Also...for anyone who is interested....you can buy it in extra wide rolls
for covering larger gaps/joins between boards. Can save alot of fannying
around.

Glen

Also the screws to be used are the black ones. Look for the words gyproc
on the box if they are zinc coated. They are not supposed to break the
paper, just press heavily into it. That means take care to set them
square on.

You only need the tape on the joints not the other columns and rows of
screws.

The boards are usually marked with the correct spacings for them. Use
the white face of the sheet.




--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Michael Mcneil wrote:

Also the screws to be used are the black ones. Look for the words gyproc
on the box if they are zinc coated. They are not supposed to break the
paper, just press heavily into it. That means take care to set them
square on.

The ones I have are a black pasivated finish (Screwfix IIRC), bugal head
etc. Using one of the shrouded "dry walling" bits seems to work quite
well at setting the depth.

The boards are usually marked with the correct spacings for them. Use
the white face of the sheet.

Must admit I had not seen any markings on the boards I have (1/2" Knauf)
I will go have a closer look. I have been fixing on 400mm centres (i.e.
joist / stud spacing), and using three or four screws across the width
of the board. Doing the ceilings first - I might reduce the screw count
a bit for the walls.


--
Cheers,

John.

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ESmillie wrote:
No the adhesive Scrim we use now, will not adhere to a damp
surface. If you were using the old cotton Or jute scrim [ ... ]

Is adhesive scrim as good, though? With jute scrim, the plaster
coats it & the board face - with stick-on scrim the plaster can
only go on one face, and doesn't fill gaps.... eh?


J.B.

In article ,
Jerry Built writes:
ESmillie wrote:
No the adhesive Scrim we use now, will not adhere to a damp
surface. If you were using the old cotton Or jute scrim [ ... ]

Is adhesive scrim as good, though? With jute scrim, the plaster
coats it & the board face - with stick-on scrim the plaster can
only go on one face, and doesn't fill gaps.... eh?

The gaps are big compared with the material -- the plaster goes
right through it. The stuff is only slightly tacky anyway -- just
to hold it in place until you cake it in plaster. The sticky
doesn't and isn't meant to form any part of the strength of the
finished plasterwork.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
Jerry Built wrote:
Is adhesive scrim as good, though? With jute scrim, the plaster
coats it & the board face - with stick-on scrim the plaster can
only go on one face, and doesn't fill gaps.... eh?

The gaps are big compared with the material -- the plaster goes
right through it.

But the plaster only pushes up to the board, I shouldn't think
adheres so well.


The stuff is only slightly tacky anyway

Yes, I have actually used it somewhat.

-- just
to hold it in place until you cake it in plaster. The sticky
doesn't and isn't meant to form any part of the strength of the
finished plasterwork.


No, of course not. Having used both for a couple of houses, I
think that:

Jute does a better job, but takes longer to apply. Self-adhesive
scrim is far quicker and looks neater, but is only a "one sided"
fix, and not as good.

That said, the most important things for avoiding cracking are
suitable framework and fixing.


J.B.