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Battery fluorescent torch renovation
I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent
tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. 1) The battery compartment has got corrosion, half of a spring has gone (there are two springs at the bottom, one for each set of 3 batteries), but there is continuity between the spring connections. I plan to take a spring off a defunct 6v lantern battery to replace the damaged spring. What would be the best way to fix it? 2) The fluorescent tube is a Sylvania White F6W/W which has probably been superseded. 210mm x 16mm. Grey/black at one end. Is there anyway to test if this works outside of the torch? 3) I've put a 9v supply into the torch and at least the spotlight functions though nothing else. All the connections appear to be accessible. What should I be measuring for the fluorescent tube? Whilst this is one of numerous "Covid" projects I have on the go are modern LED torches a better bet? Though I don't like the light from my head torch or even any that I've put into lamps -- AnthonyL Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything? |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 13/05/2020 12:47, AnthonyL wrote:
I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. 1) The battery compartment has got corrosion, half of a spring has gone (there are two springs at the bottom, one for each set of 3 batteries), but there is continuity between the spring connections. I plan to take a spring off a defunct 6v lantern battery to replace the damaged spring. What would be the best way to fix it? 2) The fluorescent tube is a Sylvania White F6W/W which has probably been superseded. 210mm x 16mm. Grey/black at one end. Is there anyway to test if this works outside of the torch? 3) I've put a 9v supply into the torch and at least the spotlight functions though nothing else. All the connections appear to be accessible. What should I be measuring for the fluorescent tube? Whilst this is one of numerous "Covid" projects I have on the go are modern LED torches a better bet? Though I don't like the light from my head torch or even any that I've put into lamps https://www.screwfix.com/p/27862 -- Adam |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
AnthonyL wrote:
I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. 1) The battery compartment has got corrosion, half of a spring has gone (there are two springs at the bottom, one for each set of 3 batteries), but there is continuity between the spring connections. I plan to take a spring off a defunct 6v lantern battery to replace the damaged spring. What would be the best way to fix it? 2) The fluorescent tube is a Sylvania White F6W/W which has probably been superseded. 210mm x 16mm. Grey/black at one end. Is there anyway to test if this works outside of the torch? 3) I've put a 9v supply into the torch and at least the spotlight functions though nothing else. All the connections appear to be accessible. What should I be measuring for the fluorescent tube? Whilst this is one of numerous "Covid" projects I have on the go are modern LED torches a better bet? Though I don't like the light from my head torch or even any that I've put into lamps Tubes work best with sine wave (AC) drive. In this example web page, the "working" voltage listed for the tube is 70V. https://www.electroschematics.com/fl...t-lamp-driver/ "After start, the voltage collapses from several hundred volts to the operating voltage, which is ca 70V for an 8W rod." It's highly likely there is an inverter of some sort, inside the plastic housing. And with any luck, glued plastic pieces to keep you out. "Pure flyback single-transistor inverter, makes voltage spikes in the kilovolt range in idling condition, so that the lamp will start. Disadvantage: One filament evaporates and blackens the lamp, makes it electrically unsymmetric and shortens the lifetime." Paul |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. same as the battery, 9v. Polarity matters for the fl tube, and probably for the flasher. You haven't just given it the wrong polarity? 1) The battery compartment has got corrosion, half of a spring has gone (there are two springs at the bottom, one for each set of 3 batteries), but there is continuity between the spring connections. I plan to take a spring off a defunct 6v lantern battery to replace the damaged spring. What would be the best way to fix it? Usually it's easiest to replace the whole piece of spring wire rather than splice partial bits. So however it's fixed on now. IME battery holder springs don't solder well. Some battery holders rivet the springs, and the rivets do solder. 2) The fluorescent tube is a Sylvania White F6W/W which has probably been superseded. 210mm x 16mm. Grey/black at one end. Is there anyway to test if this works outside of the torch? close to 99% of fl tube failures are filament burnout. Check continuity between the 2 pins at each end. If either end is o/c it's a deadun - though there are ballasts that can get such tubes going. 3) I've put a 9v supply into the torch and at least the spotlight functions though nothing else. All the connections appear to be accessible. What should I be measuring for the fluorescent tube? Whilst this is one of numerous "Covid" projects I have on the go are modern LED torches a better bet? Oh yes, much more efficient, longer lived, better efficacy, more reliable. But those old things are still cool. Before you shuffle this mortal coil they'll be collectible retro. Though I don't like the light from my head torch or even any that I've put into lamps As Paul pointed out, cheapskate ballasts blacken & kill one end of the tube, so put it back in the other way round to increase its life. NT |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
As Paul pointed out, cheapskate ballasts blacken & kill one end of the tube, so put it back in the other way round to increase its life. NT Aldi - Lidl - LED - surely the way to go - those fluorescents were never very good. |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
Paul formulated on Wednesday :
"Pure flyback single-transistor inverter, makes voltage spikes in the kilovolt range in idling condition, so that the lamp will start. Disadvantage: One filament evaporates and blackens the lamp, makes it electrically unsymmetric and shortens the lifetime." Basically a pulsing DC. The fix for the the black at one end, was to simply take the tube out and reinsert it swapped end for end. |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
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Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:48:11 -0400, Paul
wrote: AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. 1) The battery compartment has got corrosion, half of a spring has gone (there are two springs at the bottom, one for each set of 3 batteries), but there is continuity between the spring connections. I plan to take a spring off a defunct 6v lantern battery to replace the damaged spring. What would be the best way to fix it? 2) The fluorescent tube is a Sylvania White F6W/W which has probably been superseded. 210mm x 16mm. Grey/black at one end. Is there anyway to test if this works outside of the torch? 3) I've put a 9v supply into the torch and at least the spotlight functions though nothing else. All the connections appear to be accessible. What should I be measuring for the fluorescent tube? Whilst this is one of numerous "Covid" projects I have on the go are modern LED torches a better bet? Though I don't like the light from my head torch or even any that I've put into lamps Tubes work best with sine wave (AC) drive. In this example web page, the "working" voltage listed for the tube is 70V. https://www.electroschematics.com/fl...t-lamp-driver/ "After start, the voltage collapses from several hundred volts to the operating voltage, which is ca 70V for an 8W rod." It's highly likely there is an inverter of some sort, inside the plastic housing. And with any luck, glued plastic pieces to keep you out. "Pure flyback single-transistor inverter, makes voltage spikes in the kilovolt range in idling condition, so that the lamp will start. Disadvantage: One filament evaporates and blackens the lamp, makes it electrically unsymmetric and shortens the lifetime." Well I can get to the connections that the tube fits in. So with power connected I should get an AC voltage reading with my multi-meter? -- AnthonyL Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything? |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Wed, 13 May 2020 16:59:59 +0100, ARW
wrote: On 13/05/2020 12:47, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. 1) The battery compartment has got corrosion, half of a spring has gone (there are two springs at the bottom, one for each set of 3 batteries), but there is continuity between the spring connections. I plan to take a spring off a defunct 6v lantern battery to replace the damaged spring. What would be the best way to fix it? 2) The fluorescent tube is a Sylvania White F6W/W which has probably been superseded. 210mm x 16mm. Grey/black at one end. Is there anyway to test if this works outside of the torch? 3) I've put a 9v supply into the torch and at least the spotlight functions though nothing else. All the connections appear to be accessible. What should I be measuring for the fluorescent tube? Whilst this is one of numerous "Covid" projects I have on the go are modern LED torches a better bet? Though I don't like the light from my head torch or even any that I've put into lamps https://www.screwfix.com/p/27862 Page not found. But assuming you mean: https://www.screwfix.com/p/sylvania-...6w-212mm/27862 I'd first like to check whether the torch on the whole works and putting a new tube in is likely to give me light. -- AnthonyL Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything? |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
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Battery fluorescent torch renovation
AnthonyL wrote:
ARW wrote https://www.screwfix.com/p/27862 Page not found. But assuming you mean: https://www.screwfix.com/p/sylvania-...6w-212mm/27862 With screwfix URLs you can shorten, or replace the "descriptive junk" between the /p/ and the /99999 code, but you can't remove it entirely https://www.screwfix.com/p/any-old-bollox/27862 ... works https://www.screwfix.com/p/p/27862 ... works https://screwfix.com/p/p/27862 ... works |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. same as the battery, 9v. Polarity matters for the fl tube, and probably for the flasher. You haven't just given it the wrong polarity? At this stage I don't know, I've assume centre = +ve but there is no indication on the socket. As also I'm assuming 9v because that is 6 x "D" at 1.5v ea. I guess I'll lose nothing if the fluorescent tube isn't in by rigging up a reverse polarity connection or clip a PP3 in where the 'D' cells go and see which way round things are at a bulb. A filament bulb won't care at all which way round the battery is but the inverter for the fluoro tube will probably emit its magic smoke if you connect the battery the wrong way around. Usually you can work out the polarity in the end with the conical coiled spring is negative and the end with the small rigid centre is positive. These days it might be altogether simpler to buy a modern power LED torch and throw the old thing away. It might even be cheaper than buying a replacement mini fluoro tube. It will almost certainly be brighter. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Thursday, 14 May 2020 22:47:49 UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote:
On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote: On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. same as the battery, 9v. Polarity matters for the fl tube, and probably for the flasher. You haven't just given it the wrong polarity? At this stage I don't know, I've assume centre = +ve but there is no indication on the socket. As also I'm assuming 9v because that is 6 x "D" at 1.5v ea. I guess I'll lose nothing if the fluorescent tube isn't in by rigging up a reverse polarity connection or clip a PP3 in where the 'D' cells go and see which way round things are at a bulb. A filament bulb won't care at all which way round the battery is but the inverter for the fluoro tube will probably emit its magic smoke if you connect the battery the wrong way around. Usually you can work out the polarity in the end with the conical coiled spring is negative and the end with the small rigid centre is positive. one pole of the dc input will be connected to one pole of the battery. Test with a multimeter - or torch. These days it might be altogether simpler to buy a modern power LED torch and throw the old thing away. It might even be cheaper than buying a replacement mini fluoro tube. It will almost certainly be brighter. Sure, I'd still keep the old one though. But I'd not use the tube for long periods. NT |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:48:11 -0400, Paul wrote: AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. 1) The battery compartment has got corrosion, half of a spring has gone (there are two springs at the bottom, one for each set of 3 batteries), but there is continuity between the spring connections. I plan to take a spring off a defunct 6v lantern battery to replace the damaged spring. What would be the best way to fix it? 2) The fluorescent tube is a Sylvania White F6W/W which has probably been superseded. 210mm x 16mm. Grey/black at one end. Is there anyway to test if this works outside of the torch? 3) I've put a 9v supply into the torch and at least the spotlight functions though nothing else. All the connections appear to be accessible. What should I be measuring for the fluorescent tube? Whilst this is one of numerous "Covid" projects I have on the go are modern LED torches a better bet? Though I don't like the light from my head torch or even any that I've put into lamps Tubes work best with sine wave (AC) drive. In this example web page, the "working" voltage listed for the tube is 70V. https://www.electroschematics.com/fl...t-lamp-driver/ "After start, the voltage collapses from several hundred volts to the operating voltage, which is ca 70V for an 8W rod." It's highly likely there is an inverter of some sort, inside the plastic housing. And with any luck, glued plastic pieces to keep you out. "Pure flyback single-transistor inverter, makes voltage spikes in the kilovolt range in idling condition, so that the lamp will start. Disadvantage: One filament evaporates and blackens the lamp, makes it electrically unsymmetric and shortens the lifetime." Well I can get to the connections that the tube fits in. So with power connected I should get an AC voltage reading with my multi-meter? Are you going to make the measurement with a load, or with no load ? First of all, this web page is *not* about a Johnlite 6W fluorescent lantern. What it does show though, is the "ignite/burn" curve. If the tube runs at 70V, it ignites at 200V. https://www.edn.com/electronic-balla...ower-supplies/ If the tube did not ignite, the voltage could rise above 200V. My objective here, is to prevent two things from happening. 1) Avoid having AnthonyL zapped by the voltage across the tube socket pair. And thrown across the room. Now, it's not going to do that, as long as the frequency remains high. At 20KHz, you might not feel it, but it might cause a flesh burn if you don't rapidly remove your hand. At 100KHz, it would definitely be a "skin effect" thing, rather than hitting a nerve. If the frequency were to drop (due to loading caused by human dead short across socket), then that aggravates the shock hazard. 2) Prevent multimeter AC 1000V range from blowing out, taking out measurement chip. I've only seen one meter blown out that way, a Fluke with about 2kV across it. That was in a physics lab, a Xenon flash tube driver, which a masters student destroyed by being not clever. When I saw him reach for the meter, I thought to myself "he's not that stupid, he's a genius". Oh, well, never assume anything. I don't want you to get hurt fooling with this stuff. If the filaments are not hooked up (circuit uses two pins of the four pins total on the tube), then it's not using the filaments to heat the mercury, and it's relying on a little extra voltage to establish the initial plasma. You could place a resistor in place of the tube, using the two pins that are connected. What value should you use ? Is it a 820 ohms 6 watt power resistor ? Is it a 1 megohm resistor ? The circuit has a high Q, and the trick is intuitively picking the right load to prevent runaway behavior. 70V 6W would be 820 ohms (V^2/R = P = 6W = 70v*70v/820 ohms. That's a rather obscure value for the parts cabinet, and by the time you were done, you could likely purchase a replacement tube instead :-) And measure with that present. Or, don't even bother to measure and just use it. I have power resistors, but they're in the 1 ohm to 10 ohm range or so. I have one of these Johnlite lamps, but I don't know where it's got to. It's not on my junkroom list, which means I have no hints to work with. It's one of the black plastic ones. Paul |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 14/05/2020 13:41, Andy Burns wrote:
AnthonyL wrote: ARW wrote https://www.screwfix.com/p/27862 Page not found. But assuming you mean: https://www.screwfix.com/p/sylvania-...6w-212mm/27862 With screwfix URLs you can shorten, or replace the "descriptive junk" between the /p/ and the /99999 code, but you can't remove it entirely https://www.screwfix.com/p/any-old-bollox/27862 ... works https://www.screwfix.com/p/p/27862 ... works https://screwfix.com/p/p/27862 ... works Useful tip thanks. It's the links that start with Google, then all the search terms, and have the target buried inside it somewhere that irritate me. |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 13/05/2020 12:47, AnthonyL wrote:
I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. 1) The battery compartment has got corrosion, half of a spring has gone (there are two springs at the bottom, one for each set of 3 batteries), but there is continuity between the spring connections. I plan to take a spring off a defunct 6v lantern battery to replace the damaged spring. What would be the best way to fix it? 2) The fluorescent tube is a Sylvania White F6W/W which has probably been superseded. 210mm x 16mm. Grey/black at one end. Is there anyway to test if this works outside of the torch? 3) I've put a 9v supply into the torch and at least the spotlight functions though nothing else. All the connections appear to be accessible. What should I be measuring for the fluorescent tube? Whilst this is one of numerous "Covid" projects I have on the go are modern LED torches a better bet? Though I don't like the light from my head torch or even any that I've put into lamps TBH refurbishing battery connections is a PITA, and my experience of such lights is that the inverters are not very good. A modern LED torch will certainly give you more lumens per battery. |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Thu, 14 May 2020 22:47:44 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote: On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote: On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. same as the battery, 9v. Polarity matters for the fl tube, and probably for the flasher. You haven't just given it the wrong polarity? At this stage I don't know, I've assume centre = +ve but there is no indication on the socket. As also I'm assuming 9v because that is 6 x "D" at 1.5v ea. I guess I'll lose nothing if the fluorescent tube isn't in by rigging up a reverse polarity connection or clip a PP3 in where the 'D' cells go and see which way round things are at a bulb. A filament bulb won't care at all which way round the battery is but the inverter for the fluoro tube will probably emit its magic smoke if you connect the battery the wrong way around. Usually you can work out the polarity in the end with the conical coiled spring is negative and the end with the small rigid centre is positive. I know which polarity the batteries would go in but I don't have 6 x "D". However I do have a 9v power supply but which fits but I don't know whether it is centre +ve or -ve as there is no marking on the torch. I thought if I put a PP3 onto where the "D" cells terminate I'd be able to reverse check the polarity of the power supply socket. These days it might be altogether simpler to buy a modern power LED torch and throw the old thing away. It might even be cheaper than buying a replacement mini fluoro tube. It will almost certainly be brighter. I've been watching too much Repair Shop! -- AnthonyL Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything? |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
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Battery fluorescent torch renovation
newshound wrote:
It's the links that start with Google, then all the search terms, and have the target buried inside it somewhere that irritate me. Usually when google has returned a PDF? e.g. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=33&ved=2ahU KEwjvoL2H6rXpAhVxtXEKHWadA8gQFjAgegQIDhAB&url=http s%3A%2F%2Fwww.ukri.org%2Ffiles%2Fresearch-questions-for-covid-19%2F&usg=AOvVaw1kxkOJCnN-ztVWR60op22I you can pick the bones out of it by hand, and translate the various html escape codes, but I tend to click the link, that follows google's redirection, then in firefox's download list, right click and copy location, which gives e.g. https://www.ukri.org/files/research-questions-for-covid-19 |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Friday, 15 May 2020 12:26:51 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
On Thu, 14 May 2020 16:37:00 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Thursday, 14 May 2020 22:47:49 UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote: On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote: On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) snip Are you sure you want it back? Well, it is rather modern, why don't you keep it. I'll stick with my prewar stuff. NT |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 14/05/2020 12:36, AnthonyL wrote:
On Wed, 13 May 2020 16:59:59 +0100, ARW wrote: On 13/05/2020 12:47, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. The torch also has a DC power input of unspecified voltage which then runs into some circuitry. 1) The battery compartment has got corrosion, half of a spring has gone (there are two springs at the bottom, one for each set of 3 batteries), but there is continuity between the spring connections. I plan to take a spring off a defunct 6v lantern battery to replace the damaged spring. What would be the best way to fix it? 2) The fluorescent tube is a Sylvania White F6W/W which has probably been superseded. 210mm x 16mm. Grey/black at one end. Is there anyway to test if this works outside of the torch? 3) I've put a 9v supply into the torch and at least the spotlight functions though nothing else. All the connections appear to be accessible. What should I be measuring for the fluorescent tube? Whilst this is one of numerous "Covid" projects I have on the go are modern LED torches a better bet? Though I don't like the light from my head torch or even any that I've put into lamps https://www.screwfix.com/p/27862 Page not found. But assuming you mean: https://www.screwfix.com/p/sylvania-...6w-212mm/27862 I'd first like to check whether the torch on the whole works and putting a new tube in is likely to give me light. Sorry about that. I should have checked the link:-( At work we test lamps with the apprentices cattle prods https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo As pointed out by others trying the lamp the other way around is all you can probably try. -- Adam |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
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Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Saturday, 16 May 2020 17:05:10 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote:
On Fri, 15 May 2020 11:53:41 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Friday, 15 May 2020 12:26:51 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: On Thu, 14 May 2020 16:37:00 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Thursday, 14 May 2020 22:47:49 UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote: On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote: On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) snip Are you sure you want it back? Well, it is rather modern, why don't you keep it. I'll stick with my prewar stuff. Well would you Adam & Eve it! It works. I cut the wire for the power supply and swapped them over to make it centre -ve and: 1) The torch beam works - well it did before 2) The flashing light works - presumably a diode so the polarity had to be right 3) The fluorescent tube lights up, quite a dark patch one end but it lights up so a new one will no doubt work. It must be decades since I last saw it on and even if I chuck it now there is a sense of satisfaction. But I've still got to try it with battery cells to call it 100% success so that means doing something with the corroded spring connection. nice one NT |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
AnthonyL wrote:
On Fri, 15 May 2020 11:53:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Friday, 15 May 2020 12:26:51 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: On Thu, 14 May 2020 16:37:00 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Thursday, 14 May 2020 22:47:49 UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote: On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote: On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) snip Are you sure you want it back? Well, it is rather modern, why don't you keep it. I'll stick with my prewar stuff. Well would you Adam & Eve it! It works. I cut the wire for the power supply and swapped them over to make it centre -ve and: 1) The torch beam works - well it did before 2) The flashing light works - presumably a diode so the polarity had to be right 3) The fluorescent tube lights up, quite a dark patch one end but it lights up so a new one will no doubt work. It must be decades since I last saw it on and even if I chuck it now there is a sense of satisfaction. But I've still got to try it with battery cells to call it 100% success so that means doing something with the corroded spring connection. Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
AnthonyL wrote:
On Fri, 15 May 2020 11:53:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Friday, 15 May 2020 12:26:51 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: On Thu, 14 May 2020 16:37:00 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Thursday, 14 May 2020 22:47:49 UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote: On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote: On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) snip Are you sure you want it back? Well, it is rather modern, why don't you keep it. I'll stick with my prewar stuff. Well would you Adam & Eve it! It works. I cut the wire for the power supply and swapped them over to make it centre -ve and: 1) The torch beam works - well it did before 2) The flashing light works - presumably a diode so the polarity had to be right 3) The fluorescent tube lights up, quite a dark patch one end but it lights up so a new one will no doubt work. It must be decades since I last saw it on and even if I chuck it now there is a sense of satisfaction. But I've still got to try it with battery cells to call it 100% success so that means doing something with the corroded spring connection. It's pretty hard to make battery springs as a DIY. A metal that makes a good spring, makes a poor battery contact, and has to be plated up with other metals to make a good finish. This also leaves the spring susceptible to corrosion from battery "fluids". https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/batte...contacts/?pn=2 Random sample solution: £0.343 bag of ten contacts D sized, they say. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/batte...tacts/1724915/ The problem with any of these, is how to affix electrical connections. You could use, say, a #2 screw and a solderless terminal to go under the backside of the spring. But what usually happens with solutions like this, is the screw ends up protruding out of the plastic housing, as there isn't usually room for a retrofit. (sample of materials, not a ready-made solution for you, shows #2 screw) https://i.postimg.cc/63g7pmmD/conn-to-spring.gif Solder never sticks all that well, or the result is brittle and some wire snaps off later. (Like if you tried a kind of silver solder.) You would need to see how much the spring compresses, to see whether a screw-head would fit in the end terminal area. That's why a #2 might be all that works. Paul |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Saturday, 16 May 2020 20:35:02 UTC+1, Paul wrote:
It's pretty hard to make battery springs as a DIY. A metal that makes a good spring, makes a poor battery contact, and has to be plated up with other metals to make a good finish. Paperclips & springs off batteries & battery holders work ok. The finish is usually chrome and relies on enough pressure to get an electrical contact. This also leaves the spring susceptible to corrosion from battery "fluids". all are. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/batte...contacts/?pn=2 Random sample solution: £0.343 bag of ten contacts D sized, they say. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/batte...tacts/1724915/ The problem with any of these, is how to affix electrical connections. You could use, say, a #2 screw and a solderless terminal to go under the backside of the spring. But what usually happens with solutions like this, is the screw ends up protruding out of the plastic housing, as there isn't usually room for a retrofit. rivet Solder never sticks all that well, or the result is brittle and some wire snaps off later. (Like if you tried a kind of silver solder.) then you've got a chrome plated spring. Rivet instead, or screw if it fits. NT You would need to see how much the spring compresses, to see whether a screw-head would fit in the end terminal area. That's why a #2 might be all that works. Paul |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Saturday, 16 May 2020 20:24:55 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote:
Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! Tim I wouldn't consider feeding one with D cells. You can put rechargeable AAs into D adaptors or use a wallwart. Poundland AAs are cheap as chips and good enough. NT |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 16 May 2020 19:24:52 GMT, Tim+ wrote:
AnthonyL wrote: On Fri, 15 May 2020 11:53:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Friday, 15 May 2020 12:26:51 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: On Thu, 14 May 2020 16:37:00 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Thursday, 14 May 2020 22:47:49 UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote: On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote: On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) snip Are you sure you want it back? Well, it is rather modern, why don't you keep it. I'll stick with my prewar stuff. Well would you Adam & Eve it! It works. I cut the wire for the power supply and swapped them over to make it centre -ve and: 1) The torch beam works - well it did before 2) The flashing light works - presumably a diode so the polarity had to be right 3) The fluorescent tube lights up, quite a dark patch one end but it lights up so a new one will no doubt work. It must be decades since I last saw it on and even if I chuck it now there is a sense of satisfaction. But I've still got to try it with battery cells to call it 100% success so that means doing something with the corroded spring connection. Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! What with spotlight, flashing red light, and fluorescent? And I have any number of power bricks including the one that I've just cut the wires off. It would be great though if the torch would work off the car's power socket as I've got loads of 12v socket power supplies. And the "D" cell AA converters would be handy and I could run rechargeable Eneloops. This is uk.d-i-y isn't it? -- AnthonyL Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything? |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
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Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 17/05/2020 13:17, AnthonyL wrote:
On 16 May 2020 19:24:52 GMT, Tim+ wrote: AnthonyL wrote: On Fri, 15 May 2020 11:53:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Friday, 15 May 2020 12:26:51 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: On Thu, 14 May 2020 16:37:00 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Thursday, 14 May 2020 22:47:49 UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote: On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote: On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) snip Are you sure you want it back? Well, it is rather modern, why don't you keep it. I'll stick with my prewar stuff. Well would you Adam & Eve it! It works. I cut the wire for the power supply and swapped them over to make it centre -ve and: 1) The torch beam works - well it did before 2) The flashing light works - presumably a diode so the polarity had to be right 3) The fluorescent tube lights up, quite a dark patch one end but it lights up so a new one will no doubt work. It must be decades since I last saw it on and even if I chuck it now there is a sense of satisfaction. But I've still got to try it with battery cells to call it 100% success so that means doing something with the corroded spring connection. Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! What with spotlight, flashing red light, and fluorescent? And I have any number of power bricks including the one that I've just cut the wires off. It would be great though if the torch would work off the car's power socket as I've got loads of 12v socket power supplies. And the "D" cell AA converters would be handy and I could run rechargeable Eneloops. This is uk.d-i-y isn't it? Well it looks a little more like it used be to do after you posted a DIY related question:-) I know the type of torch you are trying to revive. There was one in the boot of my car for many years. -- Adam |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
AnthonyL wrote:
On 16 May 2020 19:24:52 GMT, Tim+ wrote: Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! What with spotlight, flashing red light, and fluorescent? Go on, do tell, when did you last use a flashing red light? ;-) It probably contravenes some regulation or other to use it by the roadside (wrong colour). Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 17/05/2020 16:10, Tim+ wrote:
AnthonyL wrote: On 16 May 2020 19:24:52 GMT, Tim+ wrote: Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! What with spotlight, flashing red light, and fluorescent? Go on, do tell, when did you last use a flashing red light? ;-) It probably contravenes some regulation or other to use it by the roadside (wrong colour). There is no law that says you cannot switch on a red light flashing light and place it on a roadway. -- Adam |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Sunday, 17 May 2020 14:29:02 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 16/05/2020 21:17, tabbypurr wrote: On Saturday, 16 May 2020 20:24:55 UTC+1, Tim+ wrote: Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! Tim I wouldn't consider feeding one with D cells. You can put rechargeable AAs into D adaptors or use a wallwart. Poundland AAs are cheap as chips. About a quid? Or am I way off the mark? 2 for £1, 600mAh, enough for torch use. IME with them they last well, though have had the occasional dud. Good choice where the capacity is enough. NT |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
ARW wrote:
On 17/05/2020 16:10, Tim+ wrote: AnthonyL wrote: On 16 May 2020 19:24:52 GMT, Tim+ wrote: Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! What with spotlight, flashing red light, and fluorescent? Go on, do tell, when did you last use a flashing red light? ;-) It probably contravenes some regulation or other to use it by the roadside (wrong colour). There is no law that says you cannot switch on a red light flashing light and place it on a roadway. Maybe not but my car comes with a flashing light system built in. ;-) Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On Sun, 17 May 2020 14:42:46 +0100, ARW
wrote: On 17/05/2020 13:17, AnthonyL wrote: On 16 May 2020 19:24:52 GMT, Tim+ wrote: AnthonyL wrote: On Fri, 15 May 2020 11:53:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Friday, 15 May 2020 12:26:51 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: On Thu, 14 May 2020 16:37:00 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Thursday, 14 May 2020 22:47:49 UTC+1, Martin Brown wrote: On 14/05/2020 12:41, AnthonyL wrote: On Wed, 13 May 2020 13:17:15 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote: On Wednesday, 13 May 2020 12:47:09 UTC+1, AnthonyL wrote: I have an old battery (6 x D cells) torch which has a fluorescent tube, a spotlight and a flashing light behind a red (plastic) glass. So THAT'S where it went. If you ever come round maybe you could bring it back :) snip Are you sure you want it back? Well, it is rather modern, why don't you keep it. I'll stick with my prewar stuff. Well would you Adam & Eve it! It works. I cut the wire for the power supply and swapped them over to make it centre -ve and: 1) The torch beam works - well it did before 2) The flashing light works - presumably a diode so the polarity had to be right 3) The fluorescent tube lights up, quite a dark patch one end but it lights up so a new one will no doubt work. It must be decades since I last saw it on and even if I chuck it now there is a sense of satisfaction. But I've still got to try it with battery cells to call it 100% success so that means doing something with the corroded spring connection. Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! What with spotlight, flashing red light, and fluorescent? And I have any number of power bricks including the one that I've just cut the wires off. It would be great though if the torch would work off the car's power socket as I've got loads of 12v socket power supplies. And the "D" cell AA converters would be handy and I could run rechargeable Eneloops. This is uk.d-i-y isn't it? Well it looks a little more like it used be to do after you posted a DIY related question:-) I know the type of torch you are trying to revive. There was one in the boot of my car for many years. Yep, me too - from the days when the 12v power supply was a cigarette lighter. -- AnthonyL Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything? |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 17 May 2020 21:50:48 GMT, Tim+ wrote:
ARW wrote: On 17/05/2020 16:10, Tim+ wrote: AnthonyL wrote: On 16 May 2020 19:24:52 GMT, Tim+ wrote: Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! What with spotlight, flashing red light, and fluorescent? Go on, do tell, when did you last use a flashing red light? ;-) It probably contravenes some regulation or other to use it by the roadside (wrong colour). There is no law that says you cannot switch on a red light flashing light and place it on a roadway. Maybe not but my car comes with a flashing light system built in. ;-) But I'll be able to put mine (sacrificially perhaps) 100yards further up the road. -- AnthonyL Why do scientists need to BELIEVE in anything? |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 18/05/2020 13:04, AnthonyL wrote:
Yep, me too - from the days when the 12v power supply was a cigarette lighter. And then there are those of us who remember them as /cigar/ lighters. -- Robin reply-to address is (intended to be) valid |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 18/05/2020 13:34, Robin wrote:
On 18/05/2020 13:04, AnthonyL wrote: Yep, me too - from the days when the 12v power supply was a cigarette lighter. And then there are those of us who remember them as /cigar/ lighters. And you had to hold it out the window to cool down if there were 5 of you smoking in the car. Not enough power to light 5 up. -- Adam |
Battery fluorescent torch renovation
On 18/05/2020 13:18, AnthonyL wrote:
On 17 May 2020 21:50:48 GMT, Tim+ wrote: ARW wrote: On 17/05/2020 16:10, Tim+ wrote: AnthonyL wrote: On 16 May 2020 19:24:52 GMT, Tim+ wrote: Much as I appreciate the fun of rescuing old stuff, a battery powered fluorescent light the needs six D cells would not be high on my list of things to rescue. Have you checked out the price of the batteries and bulb? You could buy yourself a better LED light for the cost of that lot! What with spotlight, flashing red light, and fluorescent? Go on, do tell, when did you last use a flashing red light? ;-) It probably contravenes some regulation or other to use it by the roadside (wrong colour). There is no law that says you cannot switch on a red light flashing light and place it on a roadway. Maybe not but my car comes with a flashing light system built in. ;-) But I'll be able to put mine (sacrificially perhaps) 100yards further up the road. I just and a sacrificial apprentice 100 yards up the road with a hi viz on. It's up to him he chooses to flash or not ;-) -- Adam |
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