Hi, I have a Hotpoint WM64 washing machine that has just started to
trip the mains RCD.

I have found that if I disconnect the multi-plug from the motor, it
does not trip the RCD.

If I just remove the earth lead from the motor (with the multi plug
still connected) everything seems to work fine.

I believe that something is going to earth within the motor.

I have fitted new brushes and tried it without the speed detect
device( at least I assume thats what it is) connected to the end of
the spindle.

Can anybody confirm this? Is it a common fault? Would fitting a new
motor cure this problem? Or would I be wiser to buy a new washing
machine?

Many thanks

John Hill wrote:

Hi, I have a Hotpoint WM64 washing machine that has just started to
trip the mains RCD.


How odd. So do I. Happened last week.


I have found that if I disconnect the multi-plug from the motor, it
does not trip the RCD.


I haven't got that far...

If I just remove the earth lead from the motor (with the multi plug
still connected) everything seems to work fine.

I believe that something is going to earth within the motor.

I have fitted new brushes and tried it without the speed detect
device( at least I assume thats what it is) connected to the end of
the spindle.

Can anybody confirm this? Is it a common fault? Would fitting a new
motor cure this problem? Or would I be wiser to buy a new washing
machine?

I will watch this space with interest.

Many thanks

John Hill wrote:

Hi, I have a Hotpoint WM64 washing machine that has just started to
trip the mains RCD.


Update, mine is a WM52.
But behaving in the same way.

I have found that if I disconnect the multi-plug from the motor, it
does not trip the RCD.

If I just remove the earth lead from the motor (with the multi plug
still connected) everything seems to work fine.

I believe that something is going to earth within the motor.

I have fitted new brushes and tried it without the speed detect
device( at least I assume thats what it is) connected to the end of
the spindle.

Can anybody confirm this? Is it a common fault? Would fitting a new
motor cure this problem? Or would I be wiser to buy a new washing
machine?


Mmm. we have been wandering around Curries etc (always a deperessng
experiemce) and looking at new ones.

My gut feeling is a new motor is way less than the cost of a halfway
decent machine. SWMBO reckons her sisters washing machine repairmen told
her that 'Miele don't go wrong' but at 600 squids for a new un, I can
afford to buy two and a half hotpoints...

It may be a case of suppression capacitors going short circuit if its
fitted with em.

I haven't opened mine up yet - are there any such things on it?

Otherwise if its a winding-to-frame short, it's goodnight vienna for the
motor, at least.



Many thanks

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 10:29:39 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Otherwise if its a winding-to-frame short, it's goodnight vienna for
the
motor, at least.

Hotpoint motors are between about 43 and 50 quid (plus VAT) from CPC;
free delivery. That's the 2004 catalogue which is due to be superseded
any day now, but I don't think those prices will chnage a lot.

Others may be cheaper...but may charge delivery. My local shop probably
wants about 80 quid - brushes were 13 quid last time I looked!

--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

John Hill wrote:

Hi, I have a Hotpoint WM64 washing machine that has just started to
trip the mains RCD.


Update, mine is a WM52.
But behaving in the same way.

I have found that if I disconnect the multi-plug from the motor, it
does not trip the RCD.

I just checked that, and yes, with it connected there a 7k Live to earth
and neutral to earth short, unplug and it goes away. at 240v that is
35mA leakage. Well my RCD is 100mA but it used to randomly trip anyway
on 30mA so I reckon its taken total leakage up around 100mA allright.



If I just remove the earth lead from the motor (with the multi plug
still connected) everything seems to work fine.

I believe that something is going to earth within the motor.

I have fitted new brushes and tried it without the speed detect
device( at least I assume thats what it is) connected to the end of
the spindle.

Can anybody confirm this? Is it a common fault? Would fitting a new
motor cure this problem? Or would I be wiser to buy a new washing
machine?


Mmm. we have been wandering around Curries etc (always a deperessng
experiemce) and looking at new ones.

My gut feeling is a new motor is way less than the cost of a halfway
decent machine. SWMBO reckons her sisters washing machine repairmen told
her that 'Miele don't go wrong' but at 600 squids for a new un, I can
afford to buy two and a half hotpoints...


I am going to serach online for new motor assy to get price.

But PC has run out of memory again and needs reboot.

Back later.

It may be a case of suppression capacitors going short circuit if its
fitted with em.

I haven't opened mine up yet - are there any such things on it?

Otherwise if its a winding-to-frame short, it's goodnight vienna for the
motor, at least.



Many thanks

Bob Eager wrote:
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 10:29:39 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Otherwise if its a winding-to-frame short, it's goodnight vienna for
the

motor, at least.


Hotpoint motors are between about 43 and 50 quid (plus VAT) from CPC;
free delivery. That's the 2004 catalogue which is due to be superseded
any day now, but I don't think those prices will chnage a lot.

Others may be cheaper...but may charge delivery. My local shop probably
wants about 80 quid - brushes were 13 quid last time I looked!

Thanks mate.

Even 80 squids is better than a new machine....

I think I will check hotpoint prices, and then remove motor and strip it
to see what may be causing it.

My be something that can be bodged. This is the machine that still has
its concrete block attached to the plastic drum with car body filler.

The older hotpoint in the back kitchen has had two door seals in 21
years and is still going strong...

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I just checked that, and yes, with it connected there a 7k Live
to earth and neutral to earth short, unplug and it goes away.
[snip]

Carbon dust from the brushes?

Around the nose of the brush holders and/or on
the commutator connection points.

--
Tony Williams.

Bob Eager wrote:

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 10:29:39 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Otherwise if its a winding-to-frame short, it's goodnight vienna for
the

motor, at least.


Hotpoint motors are between about 43 and 50 quid (plus VAT) from CPC;
free delivery. That's the 2004 catalogue which is due to be superseded
any day now, but I don't think those prices will chnage a lot.

Others may be cheaper...but may charge delivery. My local shop probably
wants about 80 quid - brushes were 13 quid last time I looked!


Latest update. Stripped the motor down a bit and one of the brushes had
disintegrated.

Have a 7k armature to frame short on every segment of the rotor.

I think the bits of brush or summat have cause it to seize. maybe
overheat and burn through the insulation.

I hope it hasn't taken any electronics with it. Otherwise its not worth
spending 80 squids on a motor.

I'll phone around local shops...


80 quid is best price I can find on this motor - type no 904/1158/08

Tony Williams wrote:

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:


I just checked that, and yes, with it connected there a 7k Live
to earth and neutral to earth short, unplug and it goes away.

[snip]

Carbon dust from the brushes?

Around the nose of the brush holders and/or on
the commutator connection points.

Possibly - one brush is split in half. Its definitely from armature to
frame even without brush holders inserted.
..

Might try a new set of brushes if cleaning up the commutator area helps.

7k does seem odd. Too low for correct motor, too high for direct short...

Thanks. I'll swab it out with a solvent I think.

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 12:18:08 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Latest update. Stripped the motor down a bit and one of the brushes had
disintegrated.

Have a 7k armature to frame short on every segment of the rotor.

I think the bits of brush or summat have cause it to seize. maybe
overheat and burn through the insulation.

80 quid is best price I can find on this motor - type no 904/1158/08

CPC do armatures too.

--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

Bob Eager wrote:

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 12:18:08 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


Latest update. Stripped the motor down a bit and one of the brushes had
disintegrated.

Have a 7k armature to frame short on every segment of the rotor.

I think the bits of brush or summat have cause it to seize. maybe
overheat and burn through the insulation.


80 quid is best price I can find on this motor - type no 904/1158/08


CPC do armatures too.

Too much hassle.

Im up for a new motor.

Tried to clean it up - no joy. Its a permanent semi-short and I have
just today to fix it.

By the time I have faffed around and ordered new brushes and armature
and and and I might as well get a replacement, drop it in and get drunk. :-)

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 12:18:08 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


Latest update. Stripped the motor down a bit and one of the brushes
had disintegrated.

Have a 7k armature to frame short on every segment of the rotor.

I think the bits of brush or summat have cause it to seize. maybe
overheat and burn through the insulation.



80 quid is best price I can find on this motor - type no 904/1158/08



CPC do armatures too.

Too much hassle.

Im up for a new motor.

Tried to clean it up - no joy. Its a permanent semi-short and I have
just today to fix it.

By the time I have faffed around and ordered new brushes and armature
and and and I might as well get a replacement, drop it in and get drunk.
:-)



End of story. New motor fitted at 59 squids (reconditioned actually) and
its now busily doing whatever washing machines do.

Thanks guys.

Laser printer now dried out so that works, and the hone (SHE left the
window open in a storm)

just the dishwasher and a petrol strimmer to go now really...

"Bob Eager" wrote in message ...
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 10:29:39 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Otherwise if its a winding-to-frame short, it's goodnight vienna for
the
motor, at least.

Hotpoint motors are between about 43 and 50 quid (plus VAT) from CPC;
free delivery. That's the 2004 catalogue which is due to be superseded
any day now, but I don't think those prices will chnage a lot.

Others may be cheaper...but may charge delivery. My local shop probably
wants about 80 quid - brushes were 13 quid last time I looked!

Thankyou for the prompt reply. I have had a look at the CPC website
but could not find the complete motor for sale there. So I have
emailed them to see if they can get one.

However they do stock the armature. Would replacing this do the trick,
or could the short be in the outer winding?

John

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 14:34:15 UTC, (John
Hill) wrote:

Thankyou for the prompt reply. I have had a look at the CPC website
but could not find the complete motor for sale there. So I have
emailed them to see if they can get one.

However they do stock the armature. Would replacing this do the trick,
or could the short be in the outer winding?

I'd get the whole motor.

They only list a selection of the spares they actually hold - and they
can get any other for a large number of appliances/makers. They suggest
ringing them to get details of what they have, and delivery times.

There are more items in the paper catalogue - which I went and looked at
to get the prices I mentioned.
--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

John Hill wrote:
"Bob Eager" wrote in message ...

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 10:29:39 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Otherwise if its a winding-to-frame short, it's goodnight vienna for
the

motor, at least.

Hotpoint motors are between about 43 and 50 quid (plus VAT) from CPC;
free delivery. That's the 2004 catalogue which is due to be superseded
any day now, but I don't think those prices will chnage a lot.

Others may be cheaper...but may charge delivery. My local shop probably
wants about 80 quid - brushes were 13 quid last time I looked!


Thankyou for the prompt reply. I have had a look at the CPC website
but could not find the complete motor for sale there. So I have
emailed them to see if they can get one.

However they do stock the armature. Would replacing this do the trick,
or could the short be in the outer winding?

Mine was definitely the armature. You can test this by removing the push
on clips going to the brushes and using a test meter (or indeed if brave
plugging back the mains) to see if she trips with brushes disconnected.


I phoned up a local repair company, and asked them if they could supply
motors. They put me onto a small shop that supplies the trade with spare
motors, and he sold me recon/xchange one for 60 quid.

Having taken mine apart, its a lot easier to pay the extra and swap the
unit I reckon.

Job completed now. Happy bunny has her washing machine back :-)





John

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 11:29:39 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
strung together this:

SWMBO reckons her sisters washing machine repairmen told
her that 'Miele don't go wrong' but at 600 squids for a new un, I can
afford to buy two and a half hotpoints...

But after you've bought two and a half Hotpoints your SIL's Miele will
still be going strong. Hotpoint are Indesit now, Indesits are a pile
of poo, therefore so are the new Hotpoints.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Lurch wrote:

On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 11:29:39 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
strung together this:


SWMBO reckons her sisters washing machine repairmen told
her that 'Miele don't go wrong' but at 600 squids for a new un, I can
afford to buy two and a half hotpoints...


But after you've bought two and a half Hotpoints your SIL's Miele will
still be going strong. Hotpoint are Indesit now, Indesits are a pile
of poo, therefore so are the new Hotpoints.

Yerrs. we had rather noticed that.

Still this one is probably now got another couple of years in it, so
decisions postponed....

....just teh effin Hotpoint dishwahser to attack now.

Never did fix that. Still shows an unknown error code and sits there
sulking...

I suppose a door dismantle is the first thing to get at the wires and
see which one has fallen off this time...

On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 19:15:28 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
strung together this:

I suppose a door dismantle is the first thing to get at the wires and
see which one has fallen off this time...

I would, it's usually that or a blocked\dodgy pump.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Lurch wrote:

On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 19:15:28 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
strung together this:


I suppose a door dismantle is the first thing to get at the wires and
see which one has fallen off this time...


I would, it's usually that or a blocked\dodgy pump.

Ta m8!

Having dismantled this machine, I see the reason it first popped the RCD and then refused to open the door. The PCB track to the door open mechanism runs along the very front edge of the PCB very close to the metal of the front of the machine. A plastic film sits precariously and loosely to prevent contact between the PCB and metal of the front. With damp and vibration, the track had arced over to the front, blowing the track and pad for the interconnection, clean off the board. This tripped the RCD of course. I'm repairing this now, but would recommend any owner of this model who has the machine apart, to check that the PCB cannot come into contact with the metalwork of the front of the machine.

Colin



My parents have a Hotpoint Aquarius 1200 wm64 which stripped their RCD. After resetting, the machine seemed to work, but at the end of the cycle the cycle light stayed on and the door won't open. It's a bank holiday tomorrow and all their clothes are stuck in the machine!

We can deal with the motor later, if it's £60 for a recon unit then that's fair enough. But any ideas how to open the door? We've tried leaving it unplugged for a while.

I wonder what can cause the door lock to stay on. I thought this might be due to incomplete pump-out (sock in pump type problem), but they've tried continuous re-pumping, and besides which it doesn't appear to be full of water.

Ideas very welcome.

colin99 wrote:

My parents have a Hotpoint Aquarius 1200 wm64 which stripped their RCD.
After resetting, the machine seemed to work, but at the end of the cycle
the cycle light stayed on and the door won't open. It's a bank holiday
tomorrow and all their clothes are stuck in the machine!

We can deal with the motor later, if it's £60 for a recon unit then
that's fair enough. But any ideas how to open the door? We've tried
leaving it unplugged for a while.

I wonder what can cause the door lock to stay on. I thought this might
be due to incomplete pump-out (sock in pump type problem), but they've
tried continuous re-pumping, and besides which it doesn't appear to be
full of water.

Ideas very welcome.


I'd guess teh drain pump has gone, and its full of water now..

"colin99" wrote in message
...

My parents have a Hotpoint Aquarius 1200 wm64 which stripped their RCD.
After resetting, the machine seemed to work, but at the end of the cycle
the cycle light stayed on and the door won't open. It's a bank holiday
tomorrow and all their clothes are stuck in the machine!

We can deal with the motor later, if it's £60 for a recon unit then
that's fair enough. But any ideas how to open the door? We've tried
leaving it unplugged for a while.

I wonder what can cause the door lock to stay on. I thought this might
be due to incomplete pump-out (sock in pump type problem), but they've
tried continuous re-pumping, and besides which it doesn't appear to be
full of water.

Ideas very welcome.

colin99


Pull the machine out and drop the outlet hose in to a big bucket so the
water can syphon out. You need to be strong as the machine will be heavy to
pull if full of water.

Get as much water out of it as you can using the outlet hose and bucket.
Once the level of water has fallen, the door safety lock should release.
The lock is there to stop you opening the door while the machine is working
and full of water.

You're on the right tracks, carbon dust is the cause, cleaning it should fix it, there is no way that harm could come to any other part. The speed control is the only thing in connection but that just measures the voltage from the circular rev counter on the back and sends ac to the brushes in pulses depending upon the part of the program it's on and the voltage /speed information feed back.

If it can't be cured by cleaning it first check your main drum bearings, these are problematic on Hotpoints. Try to lift the inner drum up and down, there should be no apreciable play between it and the plastic outer. Also take the back off and check for signs of rust tracking down from the bearing on the back of the plastic outer drum. Either of these indicate soon you will need to replace the bearings. For an experienced hand that is just a 1hr job, but it would take a diy who hasn't done it ever before 1/2 a day. Therefore factor this into the decision to renew the motor. For me it would be worth a new motor, for you it may not be if drum bearings are on way out. Depends on your abilities with bearings, similar job to hub bearings on a car.

Paul Barker

In article ,=2 0
says...
=20
"colin99" wrote in message
...

My parents have a Hotpoint Aquarius 1200 wm64 which stripped their RCD.
After resetting, the machine seemed to work, but at the end of the cycl=
e
the cycle light stayed on and the door won't open. It's a bank holiday
tomorrow and all their clothes are stuck in the machine!

We can deal with the motor later, if it's =A360 for a recon unit then
that's fair enough. But any ideas how to open the door? We've tried
leaving it unplugged for a while.

I wonder what can cause the door lock to stay on. I thought this might
be due to incomplete pump-out (sock in pump type problem), but they've
tried continuous re-pumping, and besides which it doesn't appear to be
full of water.

Ideas very welcome.

colin99

=20
Pull the machine out and drop the outlet hose in to a big bucket so the
water can syphon out. You need to be strong as the machine will be heavy=
to
pull if full of water.
=20
Get as much water out of it as you can using the outlet hose and bucket.
Once the level of water has fallen, the door safety lock should release.
The lock is there to stop you opening the door while the machine is worki=
ng
and full of water.
=20
=20
=20

If it's not that, another problem which can cause this is the vacuum /=20
breather pipe which runs up inside the front panel, to some sort of=20
pressure switch affair at the top. We had exactly the same problem on our=
=20
machine, and clearing out the sludge from this pipe cured the problem.=20
The repair man said that it is worth giving them a really hot wash, on=20
towels or something similar once a month or so to stop this build-up.

replying to John Hill, Ninthlamp wrote:
Hi
This thread helped me diagnose my InDesit IWDE 7145 B UK motor problem so I
thought I'd try and pay back a little.
A couple of months ago, the drum drive motor failed and it was easily fixed
with new brushes. Last night, it started tripping the RCD. It was an earth
leakage fault that, in spite of a stripdown and thorough clean with alcohol, I
couldn't get rid of the 10Megohm leak to earth that was tripping the RCD. So,
time for a new motor, probably from indesitspares.co.uk for £99.
BUT; here's my bit of wisdom: I've temporarily disconnected the earth from the
motor and checking ( while in attendance! ) that the machine runs through a
full cycle. This is to make sure that changing the motor is all it needs.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...rcd-96049-.htm

On 19/04/2019 23:14, Ninthlamp wrote:
replying to John Hill, Ninthlamp wrote: Hi This thread helped me
diagnose my InDesit IWDE 7145 B UK motor problem so I thought I'd try
and pay back a little. A couple of months ago, the drum drive motor
failed and it was easily fixed with new brushes. Last night, it
started tripping the RCD. It was an earth leakage fault that, in
spite of a stripdown and thorough clean with alcohol, I couldn't get
rid of the 10Megohm leak to earth that was tripping the RCD.

I can assure you a 10Megohn leak to earth would not trip a RCD. You
would need 1,000 times more current.

So, time
for a new motor, probably from indesitspares.co.uk for £99. BUT;
here's my bit of wisdom: I've temporarily disconnected the earth from
the motor and checking ( while in attendance! ) that the machine runs
through a full cycle. This is to make sure that changing the motor is
all it needs.

I would suspect the heater first and suppressor caps second. Both can be
disconnected and you can then run the machine (cold wash) safely with
the earth connected.

Hmm yes fine but one cannot help wonder how it became a resistor in the
first place.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Ninthlamp" m wrote in
message ...
replying to John Hill, Ninthlamp wrote:
Hi
This thread helped me diagnose my InDesit IWDE 7145 B UK motor problem so
I
thought I'd try and pay back a little.
A couple of months ago, the drum drive motor failed and it was easily
fixed
with new brushes. Last night, it started tripping the RCD. It was an earth
leakage fault that, in spite of a stripdown and thorough clean with
alcohol, I
couldn't get rid of the 10Megohm leak to earth that was tripping the RCD.
So,
time for a new motor, probably from indesitspares.co.uk for £99.
BUT; here's my bit of wisdom: I've temporarily disconnected the earth from
the
motor and checking ( while in attendance! ) that the machine runs through
a
full cycle. This is to make sure that changing the motor is all it needs.

--
for full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...rcd-96049-.htm

Hmm, well the usual fail on the capacitors is rather destructive. I'd think
maybe the short is worse when its rotating giving the extra current needed
to earth. However washing machines can do some very odd things as they age,
sadly.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Fredxx" wrote in message
...
On 19/04/2019 23:14, Ninthlamp wrote:
replying to John Hill, Ninthlamp wrote: Hi This thread helped me
diagnose my InDesit IWDE 7145 B UK motor problem so I thought I'd try
and pay back a little. A couple of months ago, the drum drive motor
failed and it was easily fixed with new brushes. Last night, it
started tripping the RCD. It was an earth leakage fault that, in
spite of a stripdown and thorough clean with alcohol, I couldn't get
rid of the 10Megohm leak to earth that was tripping the RCD.

I can assure you a 10Megohn leak to earth would not trip a RCD. You would
need 1,000 times more current.

So, time
for a new motor, probably from indesitspares.co.uk for £99. BUT;
here's my bit of wisdom: I've temporarily disconnected the earth from
the motor and checking ( while in attendance! ) that the machine runs
through a full cycle. This is to make sure that changing the motor is
all it needs.

I would suspect the heater first and suppressor caps second. Both can be
disconnected and you can then run the machine (cold wash) safely with the
earth connected.

In article , Fredxx
scribeth thus
On 19/04/2019 23:14, Ninthlamp wrote:
replying to John Hill, Ninthlamp wrote: Hi This thread helped me
diagnose my InDesit IWDE 7145 B UK motor problem so I thought I'd try
and pay back a little. A couple of months ago, the drum drive motor
failed and it was easily fixed with new brushes. Last night, it
started tripping the RCD. It was an earth leakage fault that, in
spite of a stripdown and thorough clean with alcohol, I couldn't get
rid of the 10Megohm leak to earth that was tripping the RCD.

I can assure you a 10Megohn leak to earth would not trip a RCD. You
would need 1,000 times more current.

So, time
for a new motor, probably from indesitspares.co.uk for £99. BUT;
here's my bit of wisdom: I've temporarily disconnected the earth from
the motor and checking ( while in attendance! ) that the machine runs
through a full cycle. This is to make sure that changing the motor is
all it needs.



I would suspect the heater first and suppressor caps second. Both can be
disconnected and you can then run the machine (cold wash) safely with
the earth connected.


I'd stick my money on heater element leakage!...
--
Tony Sayer


Man is least himself when he talks in his own person.

Give him a keyboard, and he will reveal himself.

On Saturday, 20 April 2019 15:12:33 UTC+1, tony sayer wrote:
In article , Fredxx
scribeth thus
On 19/04/2019 23:14, Ninthlamp wrote:
replying to John Hill, Ninthlamp wrote: Hi This thread helped me
diagnose my InDesit IWDE 7145 B UK motor problem so I thought I'd try
and pay back a little. A couple of months ago, the drum drive motor
failed and it was easily fixed with new brushes. Last night, it
started tripping the RCD. It was an earth leakage fault that, in
spite of a stripdown and thorough clean with alcohol, I couldn't get
rid of the 10Megohm leak to earth that was tripping the RCD.

I can assure you a 10Megohn leak to earth would not trip a RCD. You
would need 1,000 times more current.

So, time
for a new motor, probably from indesitspares.co.uk for �99. BUT;
here's my bit of wisdom: I've temporarily disconnected the earth from
the motor and checking ( while in attendance! ) that the machine runs
through a full cycle. This is to make sure that changing the motor is
all it needs.



I would suspect the heater first and suppressor caps second. Both can be
disconnected and you can then run the machine (cold wash) safely with
the earth connected.


I'd stick my money on heater element leakage!...

Yep, I bet the leaker element is heating. On most machines it can be unplugged & the thermostat wired over to check it then works fine.


NT

On 20/04/2019 15:08, tony sayer wrote:
In article , Fredxx
scribeth thus

I would suspect the heater first and suppressor caps second. Both can be
disconnected and you can then run the machine (cold wash) safely with
the earth connected.


I'd stick my money on heater element leakage!...

+1

Annoyingly they can fail then heal for a while and then reappear.
Our village tea urn developed that fault from time to time.

My circular saw did fail by motor leakage though so it is not impossible
but given the stated measurements seems unlikely. You are looking for
something leaking to earth that is probably less than 100k (or may even
be a wild value like -100R if there is electrolytic action between the
element and the frame). You can get two different answers by swapping
the meter leads!

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Sat, 20 Apr 2019 08:18:53 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

Hmm, well the usual fail on the capacitors is rather destructive. I'd think
maybe the short is worse when its rotating giving the extra current needed
to earth. However washing machines can do some very odd things as they age,
sadly.
Brian

Mine used to trip out the flat (including computer) at the start of
the spin cycle.

In article ,
scribeth thus
On Saturday, 20 April 2019 15:12:33 UTC+1, tony sayer wrote:
In article , Fredxx
scribeth thus
On 19/04/2019 23:14, Ninthlamp wrote:
replying to John Hill, Ninthlamp wrote: Hi This thread helped me
diagnose my InDesit IWDE 7145 B UK motor problem so I thought I'd try
and pay back a little. A couple of months ago, the drum drive motor
failed and it was easily fixed with new brushes. Last night, it
started tripping the RCD. It was an earth leakage fault that, in
spite of a stripdown and thorough clean with alcohol, I couldn't get
rid of the 10Megohm leak to earth that was tripping the RCD.

I can assure you a 10Megohn leak to earth would not trip a RCD. You
would need 1,000 times more current.

So, time
for a new motor, probably from indesitspares.co.uk for 0 here's my bit of wisdom: I've temporarily disconnected the earth from
the motor and checking ( while in attendance! ) that the machine runs
through a full cycle. This is to make sure that changing the motor is
all it needs.



I would suspect the heater first and suppressor caps second. Both can be
disconnected and you can then run the machine (cold wash) safely with
the earth connected.


I'd stick my money on heater element leakage!...

Yep, I bet the leaker element is heating. On most machines it can be unplugged &
the thermostat wired over to check it then works fine.


NT


You need to check where its leaking, it could be an element to earth
leak short in its case not that far from the neutral end in which case
it would work but it would take the trip out once it started heating..


--
Tony Sayer


Man is least himself when he talks in his own person.

Give him a keyboard, and he will reveal himself.