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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#41
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blower resistor again...
Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\) wrote:
Is the motor a brushed on, and is it worn or damaged internally? The extra current spikes from a faulty motor can easily blow fuses., what else protects the thing if the motor seizes and shorts out the supply, do the resistors catch fire? Brian They are normally thermal fuses, more thermal cut outs really, that don the reset. They dont tend to respond to short term spikes etc. They are more for if the motor is jammed - leaves etc- or there isnt enough air flow to keep things safe, etc. Resistors tend to be made from non-combustible materials but they can €˜cook and get hot enough to cause other things to burn, melt etc. |
#42
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blower resistor again...
On 09/03/2020 21:56, Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote:
Is the motor a brushed on, and is it worn or damaged internally? The extra current spikes from a faulty motor can easily blow fuses., what else protects the thing if the motor seizes and shorts out the supply, do the resistors catch fire? Brian There is another conventional fuse in circuit. The thermal fuse is in close proximity to the resistors and if they get too hot the thermal fuse blows stopping the resistors getting any hotter by removing th voltage across them -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#43
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blower resistor again...
alan_m wrote
John_j wrote But will melt before the thermal fuse blows. tin/lead solder will melt at 370C 60/40 melts at 188C https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder#Lead_solder The thermal fuse will be 150C to 200C lower. His is 260C, 70C higher. In normal use fuse will blow long before the solder melts. Not in this case. If the solder melts in normal use you will have a greater problem than a blower motor fault! Not in this case. I've used a high power soldering iron to solder to the leads of thermal fuses without the problem of the fuse blowing. But in his case it will fall off before the thermal fuse blows unless he can make it mechanically solid without the solder. As other have said you can heat shunt the body of the fuse to prevent the body of it getting too hot That doesnt help with it falling off before the thermal fuse blows. but in my experience a 10 second application of a soldering iron to the fuse lead doesn't result in the body of the fuse getting too hot. But may do if you chose to use a higher melting point solder or chose to braze it. There may be a problem of using a low power soldering iron that has to be left on the solder joint far too long. Clean up old wires and tin with fresh solder before making the joint. Still going to melt before the thermal fuse blows with normal solder electrical solder. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jUaf394WIk |
#44
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blower resistor again...
On 09/03/2020 22:43, Brian Reay wrote:
Resistors tend to be made from non-combustible materials but they can €˜cook and get hot enough to cause other things to burn, melt etc. Wirewound resistor on a ceramic core and with a ceramic coating. In the past I've seen this type running red like a electric bar fire before going open circuit. In this case the thermal fuse would blow long before the resistors reached a temperature where they could cause a problem. -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#45
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UNBELIEVABLE: It's 09:25 am in Australia and the Senile Ozzietard has been out of Bed and TROLLING for almost SIX HOURS already!!!! LOL
On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 09:25:00 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: FLUSH senile asshole's troll**** 09:25??? LOL So WHEN do you intend to go back to sleep, you sleepless senile trolling asshole? NEVER? LOL -- Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot: "Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)" MID: |
#46
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UNBELIEVABLE: It's 09:53 am in Australia and the Senile Ozzietard has been out of Bed and TROLLING for OVER SIX HOURS already!!!! LOL
On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 09:53:35 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: FLUSH troll**** 09:53??? You did it again, eh, you sleepless, lonely, senile cretin! LOL -- Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent: "Ah, the voice of scum speaks." MID: |
#47
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blower resistor again...
"alan_m" wrote in message ... On 09/03/2020 22:43, Brian Reay wrote: Resistors tend to be made from non-combustible materials but they can €˜cook and get hot enough to cause other things to burn, melt etc. Wirewound resistor on a ceramic core and with a ceramic coating. In the past I've seen this type running red like a electric bar fire before going open circuit. In this case the thermal fuse would blow long before the resistors reached a temperature where they could cause a problem. Dunno, 260C is pretty hot with so much plastic around, |
#48
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blower resistor again...
On 09/03/2020 22:13, alan_m wrote:
On 09/03/2020 20:26, Brian Reay wrote: Even worse, the all kinds of 'cr*p', including leaves, can end up in the heater. Often, there is space for one in the basic model - they just don't put the filter(s) in. Worth finding out and inserting. Helps if someone has Hay Fever as well. On the one I fixed by replacing the thermal fuse I found the motor shaft showing some signs of rust so out with the dip stick and one drop of engine oil was run down the shaft to the bearing. When I replaced the thermal fuse I cut the wires on the old fuse close to the body of the fuse. This left enough wire to fold over to make a mechanical connection to the new fuse leads before soldering. good tip thanks |
#49
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blower resistor again...
On 09/03/2020 22:35, alan_m wrote:
On 09/03/2020 21:43, John_j wrote: But will melt before the thermal fuse blows. tin/lead solder will melt at 370C The thermal fuse will be 150C to 200C lower. In normal useÂ* fuse will blow long before the solder melts. If the solder melts in normal use you will have a greater problem than a blower motor fault! I've used a high power soldering iron to solder to the leads of thermal fuses without the problem of the fuse blowing. As other have said you can heat shunt the body of the fuse to prevent the body of it getting too hot but in my experience a 10 second application of a soldering iron to the fuse lead doesn't result in the body of the fuse getting too hot. There may be a problem of using a low power soldering iron that has to be left on the solder joint far too long. Clean up old wires and tin with fresh solder before making the joint. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jUaf394WIk good tips ... |
#50
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blower resistor again...
On 09/03/2020 18:36, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Jim GM4DHJ ... submitted this idea : On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote: Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted.... ....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ... it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? .... You can short it for a brief test, but it is there to prevent it overheating and potentially a fire. No you cannot solder it, the heat would melt the solder. Some sort of mechanical connection is the only way - tiny nut and bolts, crimps, or point contact welding. The thermal fuse I replaced in my resistor pack was around 125C and worked OK for 5+ years afterwards. On my resistor pack the fuse was physically around 1cm away from the resistors with an air gap between -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#51
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Lonely Auto-contradicting Psychotic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL
On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 10:56:02 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: Wirewound resistor on a ceramic core and with a ceramic coating. In the past I've seen this type running red like a electric bar fire before going open circuit. In this case the thermal fuse would blow long before the resistors reached a temperature where they could cause a problem. Dunno, 260C is pretty hot with so much plastic around, You disagree, AGAIN, auto-contradicting senile asshole? -- Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot: "Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)" MID: |
#52
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blower resistor again...
On 10/03/2020 09:46, alan_m wrote:
On 09/03/2020 18:36, Harry Bloomfield wrote: Jim GM4DHJ ... submitted this idea : On 09/03/2020 17:43, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote: Dig out the resistor pack today from the blower after hanging upside down under the dash...seems it is the thermal fuse that has gone all the resistances test OK and no wiring or connectors are melted.... ....Thermal 216c fuse is £1.50 on ebay....do you think it will solve my problem if I replace it? ...and can I just short out the thermal fuse and see if all is working ? ...would have thought so ... it looks welded on...can I just solder the new one on ? .... You can short it for a brief test, but it is there to prevent it overheating and potentially a fire. No you cannot solder it, the heat would melt the solder. Some sort of mechanical connection is the only way - tiny nut and bolts, crimps, or point contact welding. The thermal fuse I replaced in my resistor pack was around 125C and worked OK for 5+ years afterwards. On my resistor pack the fuse was physically around 1cm away from the resistors with an air gap between just replaced the thermal fuse with a bit of wire ...all speeds working again...216c thermal fuse in the post to me... |
#53
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blower resistor again...
On 09/03/2020 21:06, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/03/2020 21:04, Brian Reay wrote: Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote: On 09/03/2020 20:29, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote: On 09/03/2020 20:23, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote: On 09/03/2020 20:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote: On 09/03/2020 20:10, Brian Reay wrote: On 09/03/2020 19:47, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote: I'd be careful shorting out the thermal fuse. Something caused it to 'open' and they are installed for a reason. If you solder it, use the 'heat shunt' method with pliers- like we used with old fashioned transistors. what is that then? Hold the wire, between the body and joint, with pliers while soldering. As Harry mentioned, wrap the wire first and 'nip it' up. The solder is really just to stop it shaking. Unless it overheats, the solder shouldn't really melt in normal use. If, as it sounds, you've not changed the filter, it could be it has overheated. Filters should be changed every year at least. They aren't expensive- I pay between £7 and £20 or so, depending on the car. Usually a 5 min job. as I said the specs of the car at the time said it didn't have one being the basic model......probably has one after all... http://www.daciaforum.co.uk/forum/to...pollen-filter/ ha ha NONE....one less expense...tee hee free flowing.....I like that no stinking filter.... If you say so. Of course, there is nothing stopping leaves, seeds etc, getting into the heater. But you save a few pounds a year. After all, something caused your current problem. component old age ,... bit of wire works fine all speeds working again.... |
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