I'm proposing to replace a couple of small plywood doors (serving hatch)
with framed glazed doors. I intend to make the frame from softwood and
glaze the door with 3mm perspex. I'll cut a groove in the wood using a
router and then stick the mitred frame together around the perspex
panel. So to the question - is it better to just cut a 3mm channel and
not bother with glazing silicone, or should it be a (say) 4mm channel
and mount the perspex with some glazing silicone? I've not made
something like this before, glazed lots of glass windows, etc but no
experience with Perspex which I'll use for reasons of safety, cost and
weight.

John M

Don't use Perspex, maybe polycarbonate, but to me I'd want to make it so its
easy to get the transparent part out for when it cracks, as they usually do
either by human error or age.
Brian

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"John Miller" wrote in message
...
I'm proposing to replace a couple of small plywood doors (serving hatch)
with framed glazed doors. I intend to make the frame from softwood and
glaze the door with 3mm perspex. I'll cut a groove in the wood using a
router and then stick the mitred frame together around the perspex panel.
So to the question - is it better to just cut a 3mm channel and not bother
with glazing silicone, or should it be a (say) 4mm channel and mount the
perspex with some glazing silicone? I've not made something like this
before, glazed lots of glass windows, etc but no experience with Perspex
which I'll use for reasons of safety, cost and weight.

John M

On 17/02/2020 15:26, Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote:
Don't use Perspex, maybe polycarbonate, but to me I'd want to make it so its
easy to get the transparent part out for when it cracks, as they usually do
either by human error or age.
Brian

Don't see any need for any "goo" if it is a snug fit. I like
polycarbonate too but assuming it is out of direct sunlight (and since
it should not see mechanical abuse) I reckon perspex would be OK as well.

newshound Wrote in message:
On 17/02/2020 15:26, Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote:
Don't use Perspex, maybe polycarbonate, but to me I'd want to make it so its
easy to get the transparent part out for when it cracks, as they usually do
either by human error or age.
Brian

Don't see any need for any "goo" if it is a snug fit. I like
polycarbonate too but assuming it is out of direct sunlight (and since
it should not see mechanical abuse) I reckon perspex would be OK as well.


Abuse as in "kerleaning"? Hmmm....
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On 17/02/2020 16:54, Jimk wrote:
newshound Wrote in message:
On 17/02/2020 15:26, Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote:
Don't use Perspex, maybe polycarbonate, but to me I'd want to make it so its
easy to get the transparent part out for when it cracks, as they usually do
either by human error or age.
Brian

Don't see any need for any "goo" if it is a snug fit. I like
polycarbonate too but assuming it is out of direct sunlight (and since
it should not see mechanical abuse) I reckon perspex would be OK as well.


Abuse as in "kerleaning"? Hmmm....

Sorry, I should have realised that my loose terminology would be picked
up. I do intend to use Polycarbonate, but the question still stands. The
doors won't be in direct sunlight and shouldn't be subject to abuse
John M

In article ,
John Miller wrote:
I'm proposing to replace a couple of small plywood doors (serving hatch)
with framed glazed doors. I intend to make the frame from softwood and
glaze the door with 3mm perspex. I'll cut a groove in the wood using a
router and then stick the mitred frame together around the perspex
panel. So to the question - is it better to just cut a 3mm channel and
not bother with glazing silicone, or should it be a (say) 4mm channel
and mount the perspex with some glazing silicone? I've not made
something like this before, glazed lots of glass windows, etc but no
experience with Perspex which I'll use for reasons of safety, cost and
weight.

Perspex will scratch all too readily. Would the weight of toughened glass
really matter?

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