Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
Hi All
I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Thanks in advance Lee. |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote: Hi All I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Not uncommon. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. That 'end' of the bottom of the door you mean, rather than just a leading / trailing edge as the door sweeps? Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Strange. Could you have simply allowed the door to drop slightly when you removed the hinge and re-fitted it? Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? I'm not sure that any amount of packing that will still allow the door to sit in the frame squarely will resolve your issue. Lifting the door 1mm by repositioning the hinges may do it (if you have room over the door) but a lot of faff? I think it might be time to get the plane out [1], or fit rising butt's? ;-) Cheers, T i m [1] What about a multitool on some protective material with the door still hung (if it's only 1mm and 'for now')? |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote:
Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Where does the door catch the floor? Near open, half way or near closed? If near open pack the bottom hinge against the door. If near closed pack the bottom hinge against the frame. If half way pack both sides of the hinge. Be aware that such packing may make the door swing closed (or open) on it's own accord. Ideally all the hinge pins need to be plumb vertical above each other. -- Cheers Dave. |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
In article ,
Lee Nowell wrote: I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Change the hinges for rising butt types? -- *White with a hint of M42* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
Thanks all. The door was never correctly fitted as the room didn't have any floor covering. Given it was so close to be guessed right the first time thought a little bodge would do the trick.
Did a bit more packing on the bottom hinge and now just slightly scuffs the floor which is good enough. I did try lifting the door slightly but the screw holes essentially made the hinges go back to where it started. Thanks again another job off the DIY list. |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
Chris Hogg wrote in
: On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 04:01:14 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote: Thanks all. The door was never correctly fitted as the room didn't have any floor covering. Given it was so close to be guessed right the first time thought a little bodge would do the trick. Did a bit more packing on the bottom hinge and now just slightly scuffs the floor which is good enough. I did try lifting the door slightly but the screw holes essentially made the hinges go back to where it started. Thanks again another job off the DIY list. Pack the screw holes with a matchstick or two on the appropriate side to shift the screws a smidgen. MAy have to chisel the rebate a bit if that is constraining the hinge as it normally would. |
#7
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 15:38:47 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:
Chris Hogg wrote in : On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 04:01:14 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote: Thanks all. The door was never correctly fitted as the room didn't have any floor covering. Given it was so close to be guessed right the first time thought a little bodge would do the trick. Did a bit more packing on the bottom hinge and now just slightly scuffs the floor which is good enough. I did try lifting the door slightly but the screw holes essentially made the hinges go back to where it started. Thanks again another job off the DIY list. Pack the screw holes with a matchstick or two on the appropriate side to shift the screws a smidgen. MAy have to chisel the rebate a bit if that is constraining the hinge as it normally would. Assuming there is a bit of slack, doing as Chris suggested whilst lifting the door up (hard) whilst doing the final tightening, might help a bit (and a bit was all that was needed). I'm sure we have all biased / eased something in one direction when final tightening to make it sit better? ;-) Cheers, T i m |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On 16 Feb 2020 at 08:02:11 GMT, ""Brian Gaff \" Sofa 2\)"
wrote: If its that close inabout six months you will be doing it all over again as the damp gets in and the door drops. I think its plane on bottom of door time, personally. Brian With a saw board and (battery) circular saw it can be very quick and accurate - even just shaving a mm or 2 off. Bitter experience - I've got it down to 10 minutes ;-) -- Cheers, Rob |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 08:02:11 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\)"
wrote: If its that close inabout six months you will be doing it all over again as the damp gets in and the door drops. Ah, but the flooring might have been compressed slightly by then as well. ;-) I think its plane on bottom of door time, personally. That and rising butt hinges. I don't know why rising butts aren't standard (they are here) thought as they make this issue of missing the flooring (till the door is nearly closed and you don't want a gap) nearly a non issue and means the door closes itself, handy if you have dogs or kids that leave the door open when you want it closed (even if not fully closed etc). They also mean you can just lift the door off if you need to move furniture in / out (if it give more room / width) or to paint the door or frame (even if you also take the hinges off to do that, it's easier to do when the door is on trestles). Cheers, T i m |
#11
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
Rising Butt Hinges are big and ugly - and do not have a ball bearing version so the door will always need more effort to open it. |
#12
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 08:02:11 -0000, Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\) wrote:
If its that close inabout six months you will be doing it all over again as the damp gets in and the door drops. Not likely with an internal door in a centraly heated house. The humidty is normally low and fairly stable. An External door in winter is very likely to expand and jam, then have large gaps around in summer... -- Cheers Dave. |
#13
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 16:15:12 +0000, T i m wrote:
I'm sure we have all biased / eased something in one direction when final tightening to make it sit better? ;-) Yes but with door hinges the counter sinking of the hinges just pushes everything back to where it was as you tighten up. -- Cheers Dave. |
#14
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 10:49:46 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:
Rising Butt Hinges are big and ugly I guess 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder' or some of us just DGAF about how different a rising butt might look compared to a non RB hinge, especially considering the advantages (as we see them)? ;-) - and do not have a ball bearing version so the door will always need more effort to open it. That's not something I have ever considered so I assume there may be cases where an unlatched door couldn't be pushed open by a baby, cat or someone who was very frail or disabled possibly (but then you wouldn't fit them for those reasons)? Our terrier doesn't seem to have any issue opening ours, nor the whippet who was here before him (from inside (as long as it wasn't pushed 'to') or outside). But then again, my Mums house was fitted with RB throughout (by Dad / me) so I've grown up with them. ;-) When I need to take a door off in a hurry (when helping people move / move stuff / paint etc) and find it's *not* a RB, I always sigh, even if it is only 6 screws. It becomes 'a job', rather than just doing what you want quickly and easily. Cheers, T i m |
#15
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 11:17:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote: On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 16:15:12 +0000, T i m wrote: I'm sure we have all biased / eased something in one direction when final tightening to make it sit better? ;-) Yes but with door hinges the counter sinking of the hinges just pushes everything back to where it was as you tighten up. True, except you can still get some slack on some things (even countersunk things) and can bias the whole lot one way or another before finally tightening up. I get that if we are talking door hinges (I wasn't specifically when I used 'something' above) it's all hardwood, the recess for the hinge is a good fit and the screws a close fit though the hinge and woodwork, you won't be able to do much at all. In softwood, with some slack in the start of the hole and with some space round the hinge, I believe you can (only if only a tiny bit). I sorted a mates glass shower door to glass walled shower doing similar. I pre loaded the hinges in the glass to exaggerate the 'lift' and then held it high before clamping the hinges. The extra support offered by the packing meant the hinge wouldn't drop (or drop as quickly) as before (as the clamping force on the hinge wasn't sufficient to hold everything in place as the door was opened / closed and got wet etc). Cheers, T i m [1] I've even 'biased' substantial metal frames one way or another by first moving / pulling / holding them in place with clamps / levers and then bolting them though. Not my preferred way though, I like the idea of things being unstressed when in their final place. ;-) |
#16
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
In article ,
T i m wrote: That and rising butt hinges. I don't know why rising butts aren't standard (they are here) thought as they make this issue of missing the flooring (till the door is nearly closed and you don't want a gap) nearly a non issue and means the door closes itself, handy if you have dogs or kids that leave the door open when you want it closed (even if not fully closed etc). With a door which starts out being a very good fit, you may need to chamfer one corner to clear the frame. Which might not suit purists, if you don't need rising butts. And the only time there is little option is in a house where things ain't square. -- *7up is good for you, signed snow white* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#17
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
Lee Nowell wrote:
Hi All I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Packing the bottom hinge will only lift the far side when it is closed. As the door is swung open, the geometry of the lift will diminish until it reaches zero when the door is open to 90 degrees. Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Neither. Trim the bottom of the door. ;-) Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#18
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
T i m wrote in
: On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 10:49:46 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote: Rising Butt Hinges are big and ugly I guess 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder' or some of us just DGAF about how different a rising butt might look compared to a non RB hinge, especially considering the advantages (as we see them)? ;-) - and do not have a ball bearing version so the door will always need more effort to open it. That's not something I have ever considered so I assume there may be cases where an unlatched door couldn't be pushed open by a baby, cat or someone who was very frail or disabled possibly (but then you wouldn't fit them for those reasons)? Our terrier doesn't seem to have any issue opening ours, nor the whippet who was here before him (from inside (as long as it wasn't pushed 'to') or outside). But then again, my Mums house was fitted with RB throughout (by Dad / me) so I've grown up with them. ;-) When I need to take a door off in a hurry (when helping people move / move stuff / paint etc) and find it's *not* a RB, I always sigh, even if it is only 6 screws. It becomes 'a job', rather than just doing what you want quickly and easily. Cheers, T i m A friend bought a new house and all the hinges featured radiused hinge plates to enable the recess to be easily routed and by pressing a clip thing the hinge separated to allow the door to be removed. |
#19
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On 16/02/2020 22:20, John wrote:
T i m wrote in : On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 10:49:46 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote: Rising Butt Hinges are big and ugly I guess 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder' or some of us just DGAF about how different a rising butt might look compared to a non RB hinge, especially considering the advantages (as we see them)? ;-) - and do not have a ball bearing version so the door will always need more effort to open it. That's not something I have ever considered so I assume there may be cases where an unlatched door couldn't be pushed open by a baby, cat or someone who was very frail or disabled possibly (but then you wouldn't fit them for those reasons)? Our terrier doesn't seem to have any issue opening ours, nor the whippet who was here before him (from inside (as long as it wasn't pushed 'to') or outside). But then again, my Mums house was fitted with RB throughout (by Dad / me) so I've grown up with them. ;-) When I need to take a door off in a hurry (when helping people move / move stuff / paint etc) and find it's *not* a RB, I always sigh, even if it is only 6 screws. It becomes 'a job', rather than just doing what you want quickly and easily. Cheers, T i m A friend bought a new house and all the hinges featured radiused hinge plates to enable the recess to be easily routed and by pressing a clip thing the hinge separated to allow the door to be removed. All our internal door hinges are normal looking brass plated ones. However, the hinge pins are removable. A tap at the bottom raises it and then a screwdriver under the top edge lifts it out. Great for extra access or for decorating. SteveW |
#20
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 22:20:23 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:
snip When I need to take a door off in a hurry (when helping people move / move stuff / paint etc) and find it's *not* a RB, I always sigh, even if it is only 6 screws. It becomes 'a job', rather than just doing what you want quickly and easily. A friend bought a new house and all the hinges featured radiused hinge plates to enable the recess to be easily routed and by pressing a clip thing the hinge separated to allow the door to be removed. Sounds like that is a feature some of us enjoy then. ;-) Cheers, T i m |
#21
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote: Hi All I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Thanks in advance Lee. Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal pieces that give the impression of security from outside. -- Dave W |
#22
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote: Hi All I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Thanks in advance Lee. Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal pieces that give the impression of security from outside. The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting. SteveW |
#23
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting. SteveW The load ultimately goes throgh the wood to the hinges |
#24
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
|
#26
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Mon, 17 Feb 2020 13:32:49 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:
Demountable hinge - surprised they didn't catch on: https://tinyurl.com/tn4qdmp That's neat, thanks ... and they did catch on on kitchen cupboard doors and the like (not the same design but principle). I still like the 'rising' bit of rising butts but at least they cover the quick removal bit and the doors don't need tweaking to cater for the rise etc. Cheers, T i m |
#27
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
Steve Walker wrote:
On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote: On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote: Hi All I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Thanks in advance Lee. Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal pieces that give the impression of security from outside. The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting. But not if its a €śstandard wooden internal hinged door€ť.... Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#28
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
T i m wrote in news:3r7l4f5mibv9m22c8bd8d2r19iokm22ugb@
4ax.com: On Mon, 17 Feb 2020 13:32:49 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote: Demountable hinge - surprised they didn't catch on: https://tinyurl.com/tn4qdmp That's neat, thanks ... and they did catch on on kitchen cupboard doors and the like (not the same design but principle). I still like the 'rising' bit of rising butts but at least they cover the quick removal bit and the doors don't need tweaking to cater for the rise etc. Cheers, T i m The helix of a rising butt hinge - if neglected gets a bit messy with black metallic sludge. Less bearing surface than a multi leaf hinge. |
#29
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Mon, 17 Feb 2020 16:01:41 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:
snip I still like the 'rising' bit of rising butts but at least they cover the quick removal bit and the doors don't need tweaking to cater for the rise etc. The helix of a rising butt hinge - if neglected gets a bit messy with black metallic sludge. Your oven must be immaculate. ;-) Less bearing surface than a multi leaf hinge. Maybe and we have only been here 40 years so far (and I fitted the RB as one of the first jobs I did while I was rebuilding it) and they don't seem to have worn away yet, even on the lounge door that must be opened and closed 10's of times every day. I guess it's 'horses for courses' thing and I'd rate the advantages of RB over traditional hinges sufficient to make them a must. But then I live in a 120+ year old house where few things were perfect, even when new. ;-) Cheers, T i m |
#30
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On 17/02/2020 13:32, John wrote:
Demountable hinge - surprised they didn't catch on: https://tinyurl.com/tn4qdmp A removable pin is much easier and only needs a thinner pin, with a head on one end, rather than a different design of hinge. SteveW |
#31
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On 17/02/2020 08:52, John wrote:
The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting. SteveW The load ultimately goes throgh the wood to the hinges When properly packed, the glass is positioned against the packers on the hinged side of the door and as it is packed on all four sides and the glass cannot twist, it holds the door square. If you moved the hinges to the other side, the loads and packing positions would need to be different and if not moved, the door would droop. SteveW |
#32
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On 17/02/2020 15:26, Tim+ wrote:
Steve Walker wrote: On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote: On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote: Hi All I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Thanks in advance Lee. Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal pieces that give the impression of security from outside. The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting. But not if its a €śstandard wooden internal hinged door€ť.... No, but internal wooden doors are effectively self-bracing. SteveW |
#33
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On 17 Feb 2020 15:26:43 GMT, Tim+ wrote:
Steve Walker wrote: On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote: On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote: Hi All I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Thanks in advance Lee. Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal pieces that give the impression of security from outside. The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting. But not if it’s a “standard wooden internal hinged door”.... Tim Very true, but we don't know what the OP thinks is standard. He hasn't replied to anyone. -- Dave W |
#34
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
In my case there is nothing wrong with the door. It was originally roughly fitted with no flooring down. It is only now the flooring has gone down and gave the issue. As mentioned above it is sorted now having packed the bottom hinge out as suggested.
My doors are standard 6 panel wood doors. No glass. |
#35
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
Adjusting hinged doors
On Monday, February 17, 2020 at 12:50:42 AM UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote: On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote: Hi All I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect. Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door? Thanks in advance Lee. Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal pieces that give the impression of security from outside. The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting. SteveW thanks Steve, I think I know how to fix my conservatory door now |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
We are manufacturer of wooden doors, and our main wooden doors are :Solid wood, PVC doors, Melamine doors, Laminated doors, Door skins, Mouldeddoors, | Home Ownership | |||
We are manufacturer of wooden doors, and our main wooden doors are :Solid wood, PVC doors, Melamine doors, Laminated doors, Door skins, Mouldeddoors, | Home Repair | |||
Composite Doors UK: Stable Doors, UPVC French Doors, ConcertinaDoors, Fibreglass Doors | Woodworking | |||
Sliding vs hinged uPVC patio doors | UK diy | |||
Hinged mirrored wardrobe doors | UK diy |