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Default Adjusting hinged doors

Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect.

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?

Thanks in advance

Lee.
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On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor.


Not uncommon.

Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem.


That 'end' of the bottom of the door you mean, rather than just a
leading / trailing edge as the door sweeps?

Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect.


Strange. Could you have simply allowed the door to drop slightly when
you removed the hinge and re-fitted it?

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?


I'm not sure that any amount of packing that will still allow the door
to sit in the frame squarely will resolve your issue.

Lifting the door 1mm by repositioning the hinges may do it (if you
have room over the door) but a lot of faff?

I think it might be time to get the plane out [1], or fit rising
butt's? ;-)


Cheers, T i m

[1] What about a multitool on some protective material with the door
still hung (if it's only 1mm and 'for now')?
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On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell wrote:

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the
bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?


Where does the door catch the floor? Near open, half way or near
closed?

If near open pack the bottom hinge against the door.
If near closed pack the bottom hinge against the frame.
If half way pack both sides of the hinge.

Be aware that such packing may make the door swing closed (or open)
on it's own accord. Ideally all the hinge pins need to be plumb
vertical above each other.

--
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Dave.



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In article ,
Lee Nowell wrote:
I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new
floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge
not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and
plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little
it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm.
So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have
the opposite effect.


Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the
bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?


Change the hinges for rising butt types?

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Default Adjusting hinged doors

Thanks all. The door was never correctly fitted as the room didn't have any floor covering. Given it was so close to be guessed right the first time thought a little bodge would do the trick.

Did a bit more packing on the bottom hinge and now just slightly scuffs the floor which is good enough. I did try lifting the door slightly but the screw holes essentially made the hinges go back to where it started.

Thanks again another job off the DIY list.


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Chris Hogg wrote in
:

On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 04:01:14 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Thanks all. The door was never correctly fitted as the room didn't
have any floor covering. Given it was so close to be guessed right
the first time thought a little bodge would do the trick.

Did a bit more packing on the bottom hinge and now just slightly
scuffs the floor which is good enough. I did try lifting the door
slightly but the screw holes essentially made the hinges go back to
where it started.

Thanks again another job off the DIY list.


Pack the screw holes with a matchstick or two on the appropriate side
to shift the screws a smidgen.


MAy have to chisel the rebate a bit if that is constraining the hinge as it
normally would.
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On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 15:38:47 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:

Chris Hogg wrote in
:

On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 04:01:14 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Thanks all. The door was never correctly fitted as the room didn't
have any floor covering. Given it was so close to be guessed right
the first time thought a little bodge would do the trick.

Did a bit more packing on the bottom hinge and now just slightly
scuffs the floor which is good enough. I did try lifting the door
slightly but the screw holes essentially made the hinges go back to
where it started.

Thanks again another job off the DIY list.


Pack the screw holes with a matchstick or two on the appropriate side
to shift the screws a smidgen.


MAy have to chisel the rebate a bit if that is constraining the hinge as it
normally would.


Assuming there is a bit of slack, doing as Chris suggested whilst
lifting the door up (hard) whilst doing the final tightening, might
help a bit (and a bit was all that was needed).

I'm sure we have all biased / eased something in one direction when
final tightening to make it sit better? ;-)

Cheers, T i m
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Default Adjusting hinged doors

If its that close inabout six months you will be doing it all over again as
the damp gets in and the door drops.
I think its plane on bottom of door time, personally.
Brian

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On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new
floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge
not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor.


Not uncommon.

Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I
packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the
problem.


That 'end' of the bottom of the door you mean, rather than just a
leading / trailing edge as the door sweeps?

Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and
that seemed to have the opposite effect.


Strange. Could you have simply allowed the door to drop slightly when
you removed the hinge and re-fitted it?

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the
bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?


I'm not sure that any amount of packing that will still allow the door
to sit in the frame squarely will resolve your issue.

Lifting the door 1mm by repositioning the hinges may do it (if you
have room over the door) but a lot of faff?

I think it might be time to get the plane out [1], or fit rising
butt's? ;-)


Cheers, T i m

[1] What about a multitool on some protective material with the door
still hung (if it's only 1mm and 'for now')?



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Default Adjusting hinged doors

On 16 Feb 2020 at 08:02:11 GMT, ""Brian Gaff \" Sofa 2\)"
wrote:

If its that close inabout six months you will be doing it all over again as
the damp gets in and the door drops.
I think its plane on bottom of door time, personally.
Brian


With a saw board and (battery) circular saw it can be very quick and accurate
- even just shaving a mm or 2 off. Bitter experience - I've got it down to 10
minutes ;-)


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Default Adjusting hinged doors

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 08:02:11 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\)"
wrote:

If its that close inabout six months you will be doing it all over again as
the damp gets in and the door drops.


Ah, but the flooring might have been compressed slightly by then as
well. ;-)

I think its plane on bottom of door time, personally.


That and rising butt hinges. I don't know why rising butts aren't
standard (they are here) thought as they make this issue of missing
the flooring (till the door is nearly closed and you don't want a gap)
nearly a non issue and means the door closes itself, handy if you have
dogs or kids that leave the door open when you want it closed (even if
not fully closed etc).

They also mean you can just lift the door off if you need to move
furniture in / out (if it give more room / width) or to paint the door
or frame (even if you also take the hinges off to do that, it's easier
to do when the door is on trestles).

Cheers, T i m




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Rising Butt Hinges are big and ugly - and do not have a ball bearing
version so the door will always need more effort to open it.
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On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 08:02:11 -0000, Brian Gaff \(Sofa 2\) wrote:

If its that close inabout six months you will be doing it all over again
as the damp gets in and the door drops.


Not likely with an internal door in a centraly heated house. The
humidty is normally low and fairly stable.

An External door in winter is very likely to expand and jam, then
have large gaps around in summer...

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On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 16:15:12 +0000, T i m wrote:

I'm sure we have all biased / eased something in one direction when
final tightening to make it sit better? ;-)


Yes but with door hinges the counter sinking of the hinges just
pushes everything back to where it was as you tighten up.

--
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Dave.



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On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 10:49:46 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:


Rising Butt Hinges are big and ugly


I guess 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder' or some of us just DGAF
about how different a rising butt might look compared to a non RB
hinge, especially considering the advantages (as we see them)? ;-)

- and do not have a ball bearing
version so the door will always need more effort to open it.


That's not something I have ever considered so I assume there may be
cases where an unlatched door couldn't be pushed open by a baby, cat
or someone who was very frail or disabled possibly (but then you
wouldn't fit them for those reasons)?

Our terrier doesn't seem to have any issue opening ours, nor the
whippet who was here before him (from inside (as long as it wasn't
pushed 'to') or outside).

But then again, my Mums house was fitted with RB throughout (by Dad /
me) so I've grown up with them. ;-)

When I need to take a door off in a hurry (when helping people move /
move stuff / paint etc) and find it's *not* a RB, I always sigh, even
if it is only 6 screws. It becomes 'a job', rather than just doing
what you want quickly and easily.

Cheers, T i m


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On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 11:17:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 16:15:12 +0000, T i m wrote:

I'm sure we have all biased / eased something in one direction when
final tightening to make it sit better? ;-)


Yes but with door hinges the counter sinking of the hinges just
pushes everything back to where it was as you tighten up.


True, except you can still get some slack on some things (even
countersunk things) and can bias the whole lot one way or another
before finally tightening up.

I get that if we are talking door hinges (I wasn't specifically when I
used 'something' above) it's all hardwood, the recess for the hinge is
a good fit and the screws a close fit though the hinge and woodwork,
you won't be able to do much at all.

In softwood, with some slack in the start of the hole and with some
space round the hinge, I believe you can (only if only a tiny bit).

I sorted a mates glass shower door to glass walled shower doing
similar. I pre loaded the hinges in the glass to exaggerate the 'lift'
and then held it high before clamping the hinges. The extra support
offered by the packing meant the hinge wouldn't drop (or drop as
quickly) as before (as the clamping force on the hinge wasn't
sufficient to hold everything in place as the door was opened / closed
and got wet etc).

Cheers, T i m

[1] I've even 'biased' substantial metal frames one way or another by
first moving / pulling / holding them in place with clamps / levers
and then bolting them though. Not my preferred way though, I like the
idea of things being unstressed when in their final place. ;-)


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In article ,
T i m wrote:
That and rising butt hinges. I don't know why rising butts aren't
standard (they are here) thought as they make this issue of missing
the flooring (till the door is nearly closed and you don't want a gap)
nearly a non issue and means the door closes itself, handy if you have
dogs or kids that leave the door open when you want it closed (even if
not fully closed etc).


With a door which starts out being a very good fit, you may need to
chamfer one corner to clear the frame. Which might not suit purists, if
you don't need rising butts. And the only time there is little option is
in a house where things ain't square.

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Lee Nowell wrote:
Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new
floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge
not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and
plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it
would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I
packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect.



Packing the bottom hinge will only lift the far side when it is closed. As
the door is swung open, the geometry of the lift will diminish until it
reaches zero when the door is open to 90 degrees.

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the
bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?


Neither. Trim the bottom of the door. ;-)

Tim

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T i m wrote in
:

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 10:49:46 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:


Rising Butt Hinges are big and ugly


I guess 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder' or some of us just DGAF
about how different a rising butt might look compared to a non RB
hinge, especially considering the advantages (as we see them)? ;-)

- and do not have a ball bearing
version so the door will always need more effort to open it.


That's not something I have ever considered so I assume there may be
cases where an unlatched door couldn't be pushed open by a baby, cat
or someone who was very frail or disabled possibly (but then you
wouldn't fit them for those reasons)?

Our terrier doesn't seem to have any issue opening ours, nor the
whippet who was here before him (from inside (as long as it wasn't
pushed 'to') or outside).

But then again, my Mums house was fitted with RB throughout (by Dad /
me) so I've grown up with them. ;-)

When I need to take a door off in a hurry (when helping people move /
move stuff / paint etc) and find it's *not* a RB, I always sigh, even
if it is only 6 screws. It becomes 'a job', rather than just doing
what you want quickly and easily.

Cheers, T i m



A friend bought a new house and all the hinges featured radiused hinge
plates to enable the recess to be easily routed and by pressing a clip
thing the hinge separated to allow the door to be removed.
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On 16/02/2020 22:20, John wrote:
T i m wrote in
:

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 10:49:46 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:


Rising Butt Hinges are big and ugly


I guess 'beauty is in the eye of the beholder' or some of us just DGAF
about how different a rising butt might look compared to a non RB
hinge, especially considering the advantages (as we see them)? ;-)

- and do not have a ball bearing
version so the door will always need more effort to open it.


That's not something I have ever considered so I assume there may be
cases where an unlatched door couldn't be pushed open by a baby, cat
or someone who was very frail or disabled possibly (but then you
wouldn't fit them for those reasons)?

Our terrier doesn't seem to have any issue opening ours, nor the
whippet who was here before him (from inside (as long as it wasn't
pushed 'to') or outside).

But then again, my Mums house was fitted with RB throughout (by Dad /
me) so I've grown up with them. ;-)

When I need to take a door off in a hurry (when helping people move /
move stuff / paint etc) and find it's *not* a RB, I always sigh, even
if it is only 6 screws. It becomes 'a job', rather than just doing
what you want quickly and easily.

Cheers, T i m



A friend bought a new house and all the hinges featured radiused hinge
plates to enable the recess to be easily routed and by pressing a clip
thing the hinge separated to allow the door to be removed.


All our internal door hinges are normal looking brass plated ones.
However, the hinge pins are removable. A tap at the bottom raises it and
then a screwdriver under the top edge lifts it out. Great for extra
access or for decorating.

SteveW


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On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 22:20:23 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:

snip

When I need to take a door off in a hurry (when helping people move /
move stuff / paint etc) and find it's *not* a RB, I always sigh, even
if it is only 6 screws. It becomes 'a job', rather than just doing
what you want quickly and easily.


A friend bought a new house and all the hinges featured radiused hinge
plates to enable the recess to be easily routed and by pressing a clip
thing the hinge separated to allow the door to be removed.


Sounds like that is a feature some of us enjoy then. ;-)

Cheers, T i m


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On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect.

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?

Thanks in advance

Lee.


Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that
trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass
panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply
tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show
because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal
pieces that give the impression of security from outside.
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On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect.

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?

Thanks in advance

Lee.


Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that
trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass
panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply
tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show
because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal
pieces that give the impression of security from outside.


The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so
that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting.

SteveW


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The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame
so that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting.

SteveW




The load ultimately goes throgh the wood to the hinges
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Took some finding: https://tinyurl.com/tn4qdmp
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Demountable hinge - surprised they didn't catch on:

https://tinyurl.com/tn4qdmp



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On Mon, 17 Feb 2020 13:32:49 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:




Demountable hinge - surprised they didn't catch on:

https://tinyurl.com/tn4qdmp


That's neat, thanks ... and they did catch on on kitchen cupboard
doors and the like (not the same design but principle).

I still like the 'rising' bit of rising butts but at least they cover
the quick removal bit and the doors don't need tweaking to cater for
the rise etc.

Cheers, T i m
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Steve Walker wrote:
On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a
new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle
edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door
off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a
little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs
about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that
seemed to have the opposite effect.

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where
the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?

Thanks in advance

Lee.


Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that
trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass
panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply
tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show
because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal
pieces that give the impression of security from outside.


The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so
that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting.



But not if its a €śstandard wooden internal hinged door€ť....

Tim

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T i m wrote in news:3r7l4f5mibv9m22c8bd8d2r19iokm22ugb@
4ax.com:

On Mon, 17 Feb 2020 13:32:49 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:




Demountable hinge - surprised they didn't catch on:

https://tinyurl.com/tn4qdmp


That's neat, thanks ... and they did catch on on kitchen cupboard
doors and the like (not the same design but principle).

I still like the 'rising' bit of rising butts but at least they cover
the quick removal bit and the doors don't need tweaking to cater for
the rise etc.

Cheers, T i m


The helix of a rising butt hinge - if neglected gets a bit messy with black
metallic sludge. Less bearing surface than a multi leaf hinge.
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On Mon, 17 Feb 2020 16:01:41 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:

snip

I still like the 'rising' bit of rising butts but at least they cover
the quick removal bit and the doors don't need tweaking to cater for
the rise etc.


The helix of a rising butt hinge - if neglected gets a bit messy with black
metallic sludge.


Your oven must be immaculate. ;-)

Less bearing surface than a multi leaf hinge.


Maybe and we have only been here 40 years so far (and I fitted the RB
as one of the first jobs I did while I was rebuilding it) and they
don't seem to have worn away yet, even on the lounge door that must be
opened and closed 10's of times every day.

I guess it's 'horses for courses' thing and I'd rate the advantages of
RB over traditional hinges sufficient to make them a must.

But then I live in a 120+ year old house where few things were
perfect, even when new. ;-)

Cheers, T i m


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On 17/02/2020 13:32, John wrote:


Demountable hinge - surprised they didn't catch on:

https://tinyurl.com/tn4qdmp


A removable pin is much easier and only needs a thinner pin, with a head
on one end, rather than a different design of hinge.

SteveW




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On 17/02/2020 08:52, John wrote:

The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame
so that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting.

SteveW




The load ultimately goes throgh the wood to the hinges


When properly packed, the glass is positioned against the packers on the
hinged side of the door and as it is packed on all four sides and the
glass cannot twist, it holds the door square. If you moved the hinges to
the other side, the loads and packing positions would need to be
different and if not moved, the door would droop.

SteveW
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Default Adjusting hinged doors

On 17/02/2020 15:26, Tim+ wrote:
Steve Walker wrote:
On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a
new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle
edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door
off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a
little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs
about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that
seemed to have the opposite effect.

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where
the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?

Thanks in advance

Lee.

Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that
trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass
panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply
tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show
because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal
pieces that give the impression of security from outside.


The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so
that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting.



But not if its a €śstandard wooden internal hinged door€ť....


No, but internal wooden doors are effectively self-bracing.

SteveW
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Default Adjusting hinged doors

On 17 Feb 2020 15:26:43 GMT, Tim+ wrote:

Steve Walker wrote:
On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a
new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle
edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door
off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a
little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs
about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that
seemed to have the opposite effect.

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where
the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?

Thanks in advance

Lee.

Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that
trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass
panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply
tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show
because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal
pieces that give the impression of security from outside.


The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so
that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting.



But not if it’s a “standard wooden internal hinged door”....

Tim


Very true, but we don't know what the OP thinks is standard. He hasn't
replied to anyone.
--
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Default Adjusting hinged doors

In my case there is nothing wrong with the door. It was originally roughly fitted with no flooring down. It is only now the flooring has gone down and gave the issue. As mentioned above it is sorted now having packed the bottom hinge out as suggested.

My doors are standard 6 panel wood doors. No glass.
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Default Adjusting hinged doors

On Monday, February 17, 2020 at 12:50:42 AM UTC, Steve Walker wrote:
On 16/02/2020 23:04, Dave W wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 02:01:24 -0800 (PST), Lee Nowell
wrote:

Hi All

I have a standard wooden internal hinged door. I have recently put a new floor down and when closing the door, the leading edge (i.e. handle edge not the hinge edge) rubs on the floor. Rather than take the door off and plane the bottom etc I thought that if I packed the hinge out a little it would kick that edge up and solve the problem. Only needs about 1mm. So I packed the bottom hinge on the door frame and that seemed to have the opposite effect.

Anyone know which hinge (top or bottom) I should pack and then where the bit that goes on the frame or the bit on the door?

Thanks in advance

Lee.


Is it possible your door can distort into a parallelogram? I have that
trouble with my front door which is just a frame holding a glass
panel. I have installed a steel cable across a diagonal and apply
tension to pull the door back into shape. The cable doesn't show
because it lies between two ornamental triangular scrolled metal
pieces that give the impression of security from outside.


The door should have plastic packers between the glass and the frame so
that the glass takes a load and prevents the frame distorting.

SteveW


thanks Steve, I think I know how to fix my conservatory door now
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