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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hardening and tempering
Any steel boffins around?
Fe/CS Mn 2.03 0.86 Fe 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Hardening and tempering
FMurtz wrote:
Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS Mn 2.03 0.86 Fe 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? There isnt a one size fits all formula, it depends on the composition and required hardness. Your approach probably will result in initial hardening and some degree of tempering but exactly where you will end up on the Rockwell scale is debatable. If done a bit of reading around the topic to made things in the past and some advocate multiple tempering cycles. There is quite a bit on YouTube but mainly related to making knives rather than tools. |
#3
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Hardening and tempering
Brian Reay wrote:
FMurtz wrote: Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS Mn 2.03 0.86 Fe 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? There isnt a one size fits all formula, it depends on the composition and required hardness. Your approach probably will result in initial hardening and some degree of tempering but exactly where you will end up on the Rockwell scale is debatable. If done a bit of reading around the topic to made things in the past and some advocate multiple tempering cycles. There is quite a bit on YouTube but mainly related to making knives rather than tools. Not too critical, (vice jaws)hard but not brittle. |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Hardening and tempering
FMurtz wrote:
Brian Reay wrote: FMurtz wrote: Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS Mn 2.03 0.86 Fe 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? There isnt a one size fits all formula, it depends on the composition and required hardness. Your approach probably will result in initial hardening and some degree of tempering but exactly where you will end up on the Rockwell scale is debatable. If done a bit of reading around the topic to made things in the past and some advocate multiple tempering cycles. There is quite a bit on YouTube but mainly related to making knives rather than tools. Not too critical, (vice jaws)hard but not brittle. I dont pretend to be an expert but I would have looked at Case Hardening. I was shown how to do this at school (as a pupil) when I made an adjustable spanner. Basically you heat the metal to red heat and plunge it into a carbon powder. You get a hard surface but the tool isnt brittle. I seem to recall the powder was called Casemite - there were square tins used for storage around the metal work room. After the process you have to clean off the crust with a wire brush but the finish seems to last. Ive still got the spanner I made over 40 years ago. |
#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Hardening and tempering
Brian Reay wrote:
FMurtz wrote: Brian Reay wrote: FMurtz wrote: Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS Mn 2.03 0.86 Fe 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? There isnt a one size fits all formula, it depends on the composition and required hardness. Your approach probably will result in initial hardening and some degree of tempering but exactly where you will end up on the Rockwell scale is debatable. If done a bit of reading around the topic to made things in the past and some advocate multiple tempering cycles. There is quite a bit on YouTube but mainly related to making knives rather than tools. Not too critical, (vice jaws)hard but not brittle. I dont pretend to be an expert but I would have looked at Case Hardening. I was shown how to do this at school (as a pupil) when I made an adjustable spanner. Basically you heat the metal to red heat and plunge it into a carbon powder. You get a hard surface but the tool isnt brittle. I seem to recall the powder was called Casemite - there were square tins used for storage around the metal work room. After the process you have to clean off the crust with a wire brush but the finish seems to last. Ive still got the spanner I made over 40 years ago. I have done it before but It is now too expensive and hard to get as several brands have disappeared.You can make your own but I already have the heat treatable ones almost made. |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Hardening and tempering
FMurtz wrote:
Brian Reay wrote: FMurtz wrote: Brian Reay wrote: FMurtz wrote: Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS Mn 2.03 0.86 Fe 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? There isnt a one size fits all formula, it depends on the composition and required hardness. Your approach probably will result in initial hardening and some degree of tempering but exactly where you will end up on the Rockwell scale is debatable. If done a bit of reading around the topic to made things in the past and some advocate multiple tempering cycles. There is quite a bit on YouTube but mainly related to making knives rather than tools. Not too critical, (vice jaws)hard but not brittle. I dont pretend to be an expert but I would have looked at Case Hardening. I was shown how to do this at school (as a pupil) when I made an adjustable spanner. Basically you heat the metal to red heat and plunge it into a carbon powder. You get a hard surface but the tool isnt brittle. I seem to recall the powder was called Casemite - there were square tins used for storage around the metal work room. After the process you have to clean off the crust with a wire brush but the finish seems to last. Ive still got the spanner I made over 40 years ago. I have done it before but It is now too expensive and hard to get as several brands have disappeared.You can make your own but I already have the heat treatable ones almost made. I was told at the time it was essentially carbon made from Coke and, as I recall, it looked like crushed coke. Probably more like fine-sand than powder but it was a long time ago. Im 63 and it was in my school days. |
#7
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Hardening and tempering
On 13/12/2019 15:39, FMurtz wrote:
Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS MnĀ* 2.03 0.86 FeĀ* 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? Dunno, but watching Guy Martin doing the sword in Our Guy in Japan was interesting. |
#8
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Hardening and tempering
On 14/12/2019 08:36, Richard wrote:
On 13/12/2019 15:39, FMurtz wrote: Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS MnĀ* 2.03 0.86 FeĀ* 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? Dunno, but watching Guy Martin doing the sword in Our Guy in Japan was interesting. +1 I didn't realise that they used fireclay to heat the cutting edge to a different temperature than the rest of the blade. |
#9
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Hardening and tempering
On 13/12/2019 15:39, FMurtz wrote:
Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS MnĀ* 2.03 0.86 FeĀ* 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? Don't quite understand your table, can you explain it better? The key parameter is likely to be the carbon level, and what you are trying to do with the final product. |
#10
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Hardening and tempering
newshound wrote:
On 13/12/2019 15:39, FMurtz wrote: Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS MnĀ* 2.03 0.86 FeĀ* 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? Don't quite understand your table, can you explain it better? Directly from metal analysis instrument. The key parameter is likely to be the carbon level, and what you are trying to do with the final product. |
#11
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Hardening and tempering
On 15/12/2019 04:29, FMurtz wrote:
newshound wrote: On 13/12/2019 15:39, FMurtz wrote: Any steel boffins around? Fe/CS MnĀ* 2.03 0.86 FeĀ* 95.4 2.19 Presumably heat cherry red and quench ,then in the old days used to bring to selected colour then quench to temper but nowadays they seem to stick in oven for selected time, how about 300 degrees for an hour then let cool slowly? Don't quite understand your table, can you explain it better? Directly from metal analysis instrument. The key parameter is likely to be the carbon level, and what you are trying to do with the final product. With respect, that doesn't answer the question. I suppose it could be the mean and standard deviation of the elemental content. In which case, I would come back and say just tell us what you know about the component. Seems likely it is a carbon manganese steel. But without being able to estimate the carbon content, and to know what performance you want from it, you don't need a metallurgist, you need a psychic. |
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