In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

In my next life I intend to move into my retirement accommodation long
before I become "stiff where once I was supple, and supple where once
I was stiff".
--

Mike

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Mike Halmarack wrote:
In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

It's probably easiest to replace the whole thing except the nuts
and olives. I've replaced a couple with full-flow lever type valves
which have fitted the same nuts and olives OK. If you replace with
same/similar gate valves then remember to turn back half a turn or so
from fully on or fully off, though I'd recommend lever type valves
instead really.


In my next life I intend to move into my retirement accommodation long
before I become "stiff where once I was supple, and supple where once
I was stiff".

:-)

--
Chris Green
·

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 09:28:59 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

It's probably easiest to replace the whole thing except the nuts
and olives. I've replaced a couple with full-flow lever type valves
which have fitted the same nuts and olives OK. If you replace with
same/similar gate valves then remember to turn back half a turn or so
from fully on or fully off, though I'd recommend lever type valves
instead really.
I think you're right, replacing the whole thing with a lever valve
would be best.

It's just that I'm concerned about being able to temporarily increase
the gap between the pipe ends to let the new valve in, without
unwanted knock-on effects.
--

Mike

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On 11/09/2019 09:12, Mike Halmarack wrote:

In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

IME, overdoing it with a gate valve often just involves just looking at
it wrongly!

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

You can just swap the whole thing - they are cheap as chips (for a
reason!) - so not much point attempting repair of service. However I
would swap it for a type of valve that will reliably close and open when
required like a full bore butterfly or leaver action valve.

In my next life I intend to move into my retirement accommodation long
before I become "stiff where once I was supple, and supple where once
I was stiff".

What was the phrase? "I am very stiff when I wake up in the morning, and
not in a good way!"

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 09:28:59 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

It's probably easiest to replace the whole thing except the nuts
and olives. I've replaced a couple with full-flow lever type valves
which have fitted the same nuts and olives OK. If you replace with
same/similar gate valves then remember to turn back half a turn or so
from fully on or fully off, though I'd recommend lever type valves
instead really.
I think you're right, replacing the whole thing with a lever valve
would be best.

It's just that I'm concerned about being able to temporarily increase
the gap between the pipe ends to let the new valve in, without
unwanted knock-on effects.

It is most unusual for pipe work to be that €˜tight you cant wiggle it
enough to get a gate valve or other fitting out to swap it.

Id measure the one there and try to find a near replacement- most are
around the same size. While, in theory, you should replace olives, they can
generally be reused if you clean then- I use a nylon pan scrub. Check they
arent damaged etc.

A tip for next time. If a tap or gate valve is seized, undo the gland nut a
fraction of a turn then try it. It generally works. Dont forget to
retighten.

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 09:24:49 +0000 (UTC), Brian Reay
wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 09:28:59 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

It's probably easiest to replace the whole thing except the nuts
and olives. I've replaced a couple with full-flow lever type valves
which have fitted the same nuts and olives OK. If you replace with
same/similar gate valves then remember to turn back half a turn or so
from fully on or fully off, though I'd recommend lever type valves
instead really.
I think you're right, replacing the whole thing with a lever valve
would be best.

It's just that I'm concerned about being able to temporarily increase
the gap between the pipe ends to let the new valve in, without
unwanted knock-on effects.

It is most unusual for pipe work to be that ‘tight’ you can’t wiggle it
enough to get a gate valve or other fitting out to swap it.

I’d measure the one there and try to find a near replacement- most are
around the same size. While, in theory, you should replace olives, they can
generally be reused if you clean then- I use a nylon pan scrub. Check they
aren’t damaged etc.

A tip for next time. If a tap or gate valve is seized, undo the gland nut a
fraction of a turn then try it. It generally works. Don’t forget to
retighten.


All good advice thanks.
--

Mike

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On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 10:20:06 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 11/09/2019 09:12, Mike Halmarack wrote:

In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

IME, overdoing it with a gate valve often just involves just looking at
it wrongly!

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

You can just swap the whole thing - they are cheap as chips (for a
reason!) - so not much point attempting repair of service. However I
would swap it for a type of valve that will reliably close and open when
required like a full bore butterfly or leaver action valve.

In my next life I intend to move into my retirement accommodation long
before I become "stiff where once I was supple, and supple where once
I was stiff".

What was the phrase? "I am very stiff when I wake up in the morning, and
not in a good way!"

Every cloud has a silver lining according to my good lady wife. :-)

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"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 10:20:06 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 11/09/2019 09:12, Mike Halmarack wrote:

In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

IME, overdoing it with a gate valve often just involves just looking at
it wrongly!

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

You can just swap the whole thing - they are cheap as chips (for a
reason!) - so not much point attempting repair of service. However I
would swap it for a type of valve that will reliably close and open when
required like a full bore butterfly or leaver action valve.

In my next life I intend to move into my retirement accommodation long
before I become "stiff where once I was supple, and supple where once
I was stiff".

What was the phrase? "I am very stiff when I wake up in the morning, and
not in a good way!"

Every cloud has a silver lining according to my good lady wife. :-)

She's no lady, no tiara.

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 20:14:39 +1000, jeikppkywk, better known as cantankerous
trolling senile geezer Rodent Speed, wrote:


She's no lady, no tiara.

You really believe you are some sort of "witty" guy, don't you, senile
asshole from Oz? tsk

--
Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 85-year-old trolling senile
cretin from Oz:
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

On Wednesday, 11 September 2019 09:12:41 UTC+1, Mike Halmarack wrote:

In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

Replace the valve. Gate valves normally seize.

Re not being able to move the pipes any, you can get a repair whatsit that slides along the pipe giving you an end that can move a fair way back or forth. If you just need a slight bit of movement you can also get a coupling with no inner whatsit (rim?) so it can slide around on pipes.


NT

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 20:14:39 +1000, "jeikppkywk"
wrote:



"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 10:20:06 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 11/09/2019 09:12, Mike Halmarack wrote:

In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

IME, overdoing it with a gate valve often just involves just looking at
it wrongly!

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

You can just swap the whole thing - they are cheap as chips (for a
reason!) - so not much point attempting repair of service. However I
would swap it for a type of valve that will reliably close and open when
required like a full bore butterfly or leaver action valve.

In my next life I intend to move into my retirement accommodation long
before I become "stiff where once I was supple, and supple where once
I was stiff".

What was the phrase? "I am very stiff when I wake up in the morning, and
not in a good way!"

Every cloud has a silver lining according to my good lady wife. :-)

She's no lady, no tiara.

So true.
--

Mike

---
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On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 05:01:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Wednesday, 11 September 2019 09:12:41 UTC+1, Mike Halmarack wrote:

In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

Replace the valve. Gate valves normally seize.

Re not being able to move the pipes any, you can get a repair whatsit that slides along the pipe giving you an end that can move a fair way back or forth. If you just need a slight bit of movement you can also get a coupling with no inner whatsit (rim?) so it can slide around on pipes.


NT
I'll look out for those kind of features, they seem just right for
this job.
--

Mike

---
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Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 05:01:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Wednesday, 11 September 2019 09:12:41 UTC+1, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Re not being able to move the pipes any, you can get a repair whatsit
that slides along the pipe giving you an end that can move a fair way back
or forth. If you just need a slight bit of movement you can also get a
coupling with no inner whatsit (rim?) so it can slide around on pipes.



NT
I'll look out for those kind of features, they seem just right for
this job.

The couplings with "no inner whatsit" are generally called 'slip'
couplings.

--
Chris Green
·

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 14:25:49 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 05:01:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Wednesday, 11 September 2019 09:12:41 UTC+1, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Re not being able to move the pipes any, you can get a repair whatsit
that slides along the pipe giving you an end that can move a fair way back
or forth. If you just need a slight bit of movement you can also get a
coupling with no inner whatsit (rim?) so it can slide around on pipes.



NT
I'll look out for those kind of features, they seem just right for
this job.

The couplings with "no inner whatsit" are generally called 'slip'
couplings.

Can that feature be included in a lever valve, or is it an extra?
--

Mike

---
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Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 14:25:49 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 05:01:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Wednesday, 11 September 2019 09:12:41 UTC+1, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Re not being able to move the pipes any, you can get a repair whatsit
that slides along the pipe giving you an end that can move a fair way back
or forth. If you just need a slight bit of movement you can also get a
coupling with no inner whatsit (rim?) so it can slide around on pipes.



NT
I'll look out for those kind of features, they seem just right for
this job.

The couplings with "no inner whatsit" are generally called 'slip'
couplings.

Can that feature be included in a lever valve, or is it an extra?

No, how could it? Oh, I suppose the 'open' position could be such
that a pipe would go right through but I've never seen this designed
in. Slip couplings usually look identical to normal straight
couplings but can be slid wholly onto a pipe.

--
Chris Green
·

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 09:12:42 +0100, Mike Halmarack
wrote:

In my fumbling enthusiasm to get out from under the kitchen sink, I
overdid the leverage and broke the spindle of a seized gate valve. So
now it can be turned forever in any direction with no effect.

Will I have to replace the whole thing, or can I remove the guts from
the main body of the valve and renew just those inner parts?

In my next life I intend to move into my retirement accommodation long
before I become "stiff where once I was supple, and supple where once
I was stiff".

Not as bad as shooting the Sheriff, I suppose!

On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 15:09:53 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 14:25:49 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 05:01:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Wednesday, 11 September 2019 09:12:41 UTC+1, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Re not being able to move the pipes any, you can get a repair whatsit
that slides along the pipe giving you an end that can move a fair way back
or forth. If you just need a slight bit of movement you can also get a
coupling with no inner whatsit (rim?) so it can slide around on pipes.



NT
I'll look out for those kind of features, they seem just right for
this job.

The couplings with "no inner whatsit" are generally called 'slip'
couplings.

Can that feature be included in a lever valve, or is it an extra?

No, how could it? Oh, I suppose the 'open' position could be such
that a pipe would go right through but I've never seen this designed
in. Slip couplings usually look identical to normal straight
couplings but can be slid wholly onto a pipe.

Apologies, my mind was full of lever valves and gate valves at the
time.
--

Mike

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On 11/09/2019 14:45, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 14:25:49 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Wed, 11 Sep 2019 05:01:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Wednesday, 11 September 2019 09:12:41 UTC+1, Mike Halmarack wrote:
Re not being able to move the pipes any, you can get a repair whatsit
that slides along the pipe giving you an end that can move a fair way back
or forth. If you just need a slight bit of movement you can also get a
coupling with no inner whatsit (rim?) so it can slide around on pipes.



NT
I'll look out for those kind of features, they seem just right for
this job.

The couplings with "no inner whatsit" are generally called 'slip'
couplings.

Can that feature be included in a lever valve, or is it an extra?

there is some slip possible when using stock compression fittings


--
Climate Change: Socialism wearing a lab coat.