I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity
walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls rather
than using vertical supports from foundation pads.
The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with lots
of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of finding a
cavity!

Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with resin?
or?
--
Tim Lamb

On 18/07/2019 21:38, Tim Lamb wrote:
I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity
walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls rather
than using vertical supports from foundation pads.
The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with lots
of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of finding a
cavity!

Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with resin? or?

If you have a loose brick you might be able to see where the frogs or
holes are and avoid drilling bricks at those locations on each brick.

You could use anchor bolts long enough to go right through the bricks,
and anchor on the far side. But if you do that drill carefully after
your bit has passed through the hole so you don't blow the far side of
the brick.

Since the load will not be 'pull-out' I would have thought 10mm holes,
blue plugs, and No 10 or 12 woodscrews, fixing to the masonry between
the hole in the brick and the surface, would be fine.

Much depends on the hardness of the bricks.

Bill

On 2019-07-18 7:47 p.m., Bill Wright wrote:
On 18/07/2019 21:38, Tim Lamb wrote:
I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity
walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls
rather than using vertical supports from foundation pads.
The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with
lots of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of
finding a cavity!

Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with resin?
or?

If you have a loose brick you might be able to see where the frogs or
holes are and avoid drilling bricks at those locations on each brick.

You could use anchor bolts long enough to go right through the bricks,
and anchor on the far side. But if you do that drill carefully after
your bit has passed through the hole so you don't blow the far side of
the brick.

Since the load will not be 'pull-out' I would have thought 10mm holes,
blue plugs, and No 10 or 12 woodscrews, fixing to the masonry between
the hole in the brick and the surface, would be fine.

Much depends on the hardness of the bricks.

Bill

just the climate could make all the difference

On 18/07/2019 21:38, Tim Lamb wrote:
I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity
walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls rather
than using vertical supports from foundation pads.
The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with lots
of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of finding a
cavity!

Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with resin? or?

I am as regulars klnow a great fan of resin. Of course I use car body
filler because it is CHEAP.


--
€œThe ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools.€�

Herbert Spencer

On 19/07/2019 03:51, % wrote:
On 2019-07-18 7:47 p.m., Bill Wright wrote:
On 18/07/2019 21:38, Tim Lamb wrote:
I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity
walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls
rather than using vertical supports from foundation pads.
The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with
lots of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of
finding a cavity!

Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with
resin? or?

If you have a loose brick you might be able to see where the frogs or
holes are and avoid drilling bricks at those locations on each brick.

You could use anchor bolts long enough to go right through the bricks,
and anchor on the far side. But if you do that drill carefully after
your bit has passed through the hole so you don't blow the far side of
the brick.

Since the load will not be 'pull-out' I would have thought 10mm holes,
blue plugs, and No 10 or 12 woodscrews, fixing to the masonry between
the hole in the brick and the surface, would be fine.

Much depends on the hardness of the bricks.

Bill

just the climate could make all the difference

I would point out that virtually all houses in the UK with cavity walls
its the inner wall that supports the roof and not the outer wall.

Even with timber framed houses.

So make sure the structure can support the roof.


The roof is normally tied in place with steel L brackets about 1m long
against the wall and 300 mm on the wood work of the roof. This may vary
I haven't looked inside many older houses but you can see new ones being
built.

In message , "dennis@home"
writes
On 19/07/2019 03:51, % wrote:

I would point out that virtually all houses in the UK with cavity walls
its the inner wall that supports the roof and not the outer wall.
Yes. Clearly amply strong enough for the job and avoids exposing roof
timber to weather/rot.

Even with timber framed houses.
Yes. The chalet bungalow is modern timber frame and the roof was fitted
before the outer brick. They used an L shaped stainless tab which is
nailed to the frame and has a flat section mortared into the brick
course.

So make sure the structure can support the roof.
This is a very modest structure, about 2.5m2.


The roof is normally tied in place with steel L brackets about 1m long
against the wall and 300 mm on the wood work of the roof. This may vary
I haven't looked inside many older houses but you can see new ones
being built.
I assume that is for wind loading



--
Tim Lamb

In message , Bill Wright
writes
On 18/07/2019 21:38, Tim Lamb wrote:
I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity
walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls
rather than using vertical supports from foundation pads.
The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with
lots of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of
finding a cavity!
Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with
resin? or?

If you have a loose brick you might be able to see where the frogs or
holes are and avoid drilling bricks at those locations on each brick.

You could use anchor bolts long enough to go right through the bricks,
and anchor on the far side. But if you do that drill carefully after
your bit has passed through the hole so you don't blow the far side of
the brick.

Since the load will not be 'pull-out' I would have thought 10mm holes,
blue plugs, and No 10 or 12 woodscrews, fixing to the masonry between
the hole in the brick and the surface, would be fine.

Much depends on the hardness of the bricks.

Bricks are modern and brittle! I have spares. Standard brick size with 8
through holes! Must save clay and drying/baking time.

--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Bill Wright
writes
On 18/07/2019 21:38, Tim Lamb wrote:
I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity
walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls
rather than using vertical supports from foundation pads.
The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with
lots of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of
finding a cavity!
Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with
resin? or?

If you have a loose brick you might be able to see where the frogs or
holes are and avoid drilling bricks at those locations on each brick.

You could use anchor bolts long enough to go right through the bricks,
and anchor on the far side. But if you do that drill carefully after
your bit has passed through the hole so you don't blow the far side of
the brick.

Since the load will not be 'pull-out' I would have thought 10mm holes,
blue plugs, and No 10 or 12 woodscrews, fixing to the masonry between
the hole in the brick and the surface, would be fine.

Much depends on the hardness of the bricks.

Bricks are modern and brittle! I have spares. Standard brick size with 8
through holes! Must save clay and drying/baking time.

They are probabaly "Engineering bricks" which aren't affected by moisture.
Used for below the damp course.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 19/07/2019 09:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 18/07/2019 21:38, Tim Lamb wrote:
I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity
walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls
rather than using vertical supports from foundation pads.
The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with
lots of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of
finding a cavity!

Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with resin?
or?

I am as regulars klnow a great fan of resin. Of course I use car body
filler because it is CHEAP.



And it absorbs moisture over time and swells up.

On 19/07/2019 18:18, Andrew wrote:
On 19/07/2019 09:14, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 18/07/2019 21:38, Tim Lamb wrote:
I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity
walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls
rather than using vertical supports from foundation pads.
The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with
lots of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of
finding a cavity!

Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with
resin? or?

I am as regulars klnow a great fan of resin. Of course I use car body
filler because it is CHEAP.



And it absorbs moisture over time and swells up.

No, it doesn't


--
"A point of view can be a dangerous luxury when substituted for insight
and understanding".

Marshall McLuhan

On 19/07/2019 03:47, Bill Wright wrote:

You could use anchor bolts long enough to go right through the bricks,
and anchor on the far side. But if you do that drill carefully after
your bit has passed through the hole so you don't blow the far side of
the brick.


When I fitted my parents awning (fixed positions for drilling) I used
two different lengths of anchor bolts for this reason.

Hit a hole and a longer bolt was used into the back of the brick.


--
Adam

In message , ARW
writes
On 19/07/2019 03:47, Bill Wright wrote:

You could use anchor bolts long enough to go right through the
bricks, and anchor on the far side. But if you do that drill
carefully after your bit has passed through the hole so you don't
blow the far side of the brick.


When I fitted my parents awning (fixed positions for drilling) I used
two different lengths of anchor bolts for this reason.

Hit a hole and a longer bolt was used into the back of the brick.

These are both cavity walls. As Bill hinted, care is needed to not blow
a big hole at the back of the hard brick.

Currently thinking short reach anchor bolts secured with resin and going
back to the old hammer drill rather than SDS. Starting with an
undersized bit....



--
Tim Lamb