We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I need
an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland 764
transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this thing
is DC or AC?

Mike

On 13/07/2019 16:43, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I need
an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland 764
transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this thing
is DC or AC?

Its DC when you use batteries and AC when you use a transformer. ie most
door bells work with both.

https://www.friedland.co.uk/en-GB/Ch...ages/D117.aspx

--
Adam

On 13/07/2019 17:17, ARW wrote:
On 13/07/2019 16:43, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I
need an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland
764 transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this
thing is DC or AC?

Its DC when you use batteries and AC when you use a transformer. ie most
door bells work with both.

https://www.friedland.co.uk/en-GB/Ch...ages/D117.aspx


Looking at the OP, could it just be a simple matter of replacing
or re-attaching the return spring?

ie, the solenoid will pull in to hit one of the chimes, but without
the return spring it will not then rebound to hit the other.

+1


.....a bit of corrosion adds to the friction and can defeat the spring - but
not the solenoid

On 13/07/2019 17:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jul 2019 17:30:08 +0100, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs
Computer wrote:

On 13/07/2019 17:17, ARW wrote:
On 13/07/2019 16:43, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I
need an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland
764 transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this
thing is DC or AC?

Its DC when you use batteries and AC when you use a transformer. ie most
door bells work with both.

https://www.friedland.co.uk/en-GB/Ch...ages/D117.aspx


Looking at the OP, could it just be a simple matter of replacing
or re-attaching the return spring?

ie, the solenoid will pull in to hit one of the chimes, but without
the return spring it will not then rebound to hit the other.

+1

BTDT and no, its just very old and worn out. Its supposed to Ding/Dong
when the front door push is pressed and Dong/Ding when the back one is
pressed but no amount of freeing up have improved the Ding!

Mike

On 13/07/2019 17:17, ARW wrote:
On 13/07/2019 16:43, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I
need an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland
764 transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this
thing is DC or AC?

Its DC when you use batteries and AC when you use a transformer. ie most
door bells work with both.


I asked because reading feedback on Amazon some complain the bell they
bought doesn't work well and answers to questions suggested its because
its wrong AC/DC.

Also I'm struggling to find a simple bell to replace the current chime
that is 12v, most seem to be 8v.

Mike

On Saturday, 13 July 2019 17:48:21 UTC+1, Muddymike wrote:
Also I'm struggling to find a simple bell to replace the current chime
that is 12v, most seem to be 8v.

They'll be okay, they're only energised for a fraction of a second.

Burglar alarm sounders run on 12 volts (DC, but AC/DC bells are available) if you really want a 12 volt.

Owain

On 13/07/2019 17:44, Muddymike wrote:
On 13/07/2019 17:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jul 2019 17:30:08 +0100, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs
Computer wrote:

On 13/07/2019 17:17, ARW wrote:
On 13/07/2019 16:43, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I
need an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland
764 transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this
thing is DC or AC?

Its DC when you use batteries and AC when you use a transformer. ie
most
door bells work with both.

https://www.friedland.co.uk/en-GB/Ch...ages/D117.aspx


Looking at the OP, could it just be a simple matter of replacing
or re-attaching the return spring?

ie, the solenoid will pull in to hit one of the chimes, but without
the return spring it will not then rebound to hit the other.

+1

BTDT and no, its just very old and worn out. Its supposed to Ding/Dong
when the front door push is pressed and Dong/Ding when the back one is
pressed but no amount of freeing up have improved the Ding!

Mike

Be very grateful you still have the dong.

On 13/07/2019 17:44, Muddymike wrote:
On 13/07/2019 17:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jul 2019 17:30:08 +0100, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs
Computer wrote:

On 13/07/2019 17:17, ARW wrote:
On 13/07/2019 16:43, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I
need an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland
764 transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this
thing is DC or AC?

Its DC when you use batteries and AC when you use a transformer. ie
most
door bells work with both.

https://www.friedland.co.uk/en-GB/Ch...ages/D117.aspx


Looking at the OP, could it just be a simple matter of replacing
or re-attaching the return spring?

ie, the solenoid will pull in to hit one of the chimes, but without
the return spring it will not then rebound to hit the other.

+1

BTDT and no, its just very old and worn out. Its supposed to Ding/Dong
when the front door push is pressed and Dong/Ding when the back one is
pressed but no amount of freeing up have improved the Ding!

That's interesting, for assuming that it predates the incursion of
electronics by several years, your description of differing operation
front and back suggests to me some form of DC operation entailing
a permanent magnet.

Richard wrote:
On 13/07/2019 17:44, Muddymike wrote:
On 13/07/2019 17:34, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jul 2019 17:30:08 +0100, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs
Computer wrote:

On 13/07/2019 17:17, ARW wrote:
On 13/07/2019 16:43, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I
need an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland
764 transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this
thing is DC or AC?

Its DC when you use batteries and AC when you use a transformer. ie
most
door bells work with both.

https://www.friedland.co.uk/en-GB/Ch...ages/D117.aspx


Looking at the OP, could it just be a simple matter of replacing
or re-attaching the return spring?

ie, the solenoid will pull in to hit one of the chimes, but without
the return spring it will not then rebound to hit the other.

+1

BTDT and no, its just very old and worn out. Its supposed to Ding/Dong
when the front door push is pressed and Dong/Ding when the back one is
pressed but no amount of freeing up have improved the Ding!

Mike

Be very grateful you still have the dong.

.... with a luminous nose?

--
Chris Green
·

Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer explained :
That's interesting, for assuming that it predates the incursion of
electronics by several years, your description of differing operation
front and back suggests to me some form of DC operation entailing
a permanent magnet.

So far as I remember, they use two separate solenoid coils and two
terminals. One coil fires it one way, the other the opposite way.

formulated the question :
They'll be okay, they're only energised for a fraction of a second.

The bell contacts can and do often jam closed, which means a chime type
can remain energised for a very long time. They often overheat melt/
distort the plastic and jam, which might be the OP's problem.

On 13/07/2019 17:42, DerbyBorn wrote:

+1


.....a bit of corrosion adds to the friction and can defeat the spring - but
not the solenoid


I was thinking that I'd give it a drop of light oil.

Muddymike wrote:
On 13/07/2019 17:17, ARW wrote:
On 13/07/2019 16:43, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I
need an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v
Freidland 764 transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this
thing is DC or AC?

Its DC when you use batteries and AC when you use a transformer. ie
most door bells work with both.


I asked because reading feedback on Amazon some complain the bell they
bought doesn't work well and answers to questions suggested its
because its wrong AC/DC.

Also I'm struggling to find a simple bell to replace the current chime
that is 12v, most seem to be 8v.

Mike

I've had wireless for nearly 11 years and they work very well.
Easy to install and a reasonable price.
Dead easy. But you are a thick **** of a cyclist and this sort of advice you
will find difficult to understand.

GB wrote in :

On 13/07/2019 17:42, DerbyBorn wrote:

+1


.....a bit of corrosion adds to the friction and can defeat the
spring - but not the solenoid


I was thinking that I'd give it a drop of light oil.




No - it will make it sticky - clean smooth and dry.

On 13/07/2019 19:00, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer explained :
That's interesting, for assuming that it predates the incursion of
electronics by several years, your description of differing operation
front and back suggests to me some form of DC operation entailing
a permanent magnet.

So far as I remember, they use two separate solenoid coils and two
terminals. One coil fires it one way, the other the opposite way.

Curious, then, that the ding should be missing on both front and back

On Saturday, 13 July 2019 18:18:10 UTC+1, wrote:
On Saturday, 13 July 2019 17:48:21 UTC+1, Muddymike wrote:
Also I'm struggling to find a simple bell to replace the current chime
that is 12v, most seem to be 8v.

They'll be okay, they're only energised for a fraction of a second.

Burglar alarm sounders run on 12 volts (DC, but AC/DC bells are available) if you really want a 12 volt.

Owain

hey owain, you mentioned on another post u got some stuff from j bull of haywards heath, I I know its gone but can you remind where it was located please

On Saturday, 13 July 2019 20:34:54 UTC+1, wrote:
hey owain, you mentioned on another post u got some stuff
from j bull of haywards heath, I I know its gone but can
you remind where it was located please

In the "Wanted old MK ,metal clad light switches" thread

Their Haywards Heath site is now derelict:

https://www.28dayslater.co.uk/thread...y-2019.118929/

some nicer stock here, panel meters, boxes labelled GPO and Decca, etc:

https://www.28dayslater.co.uk/thread...y-2019.118578/

I think one of their addresses was

34 - 36 AMERICA LANE, HAYWARDS HEATH, SUSEX RH16 3QU

Owain

On Saturday, 13 July 2019 20:57:24 UTC+1, wrote:
On Saturday, 13 July 2019 20:34:54 UTC+1, wrote:
hey owain, you mentioned on another post u got some stuff
from j bull of haywards heath, I I know its gone but can
you remind where it was located please

In the "Wanted old MK ,metal clad light switches" thread

Their Haywards Heath site is now derelict:

https://www.28dayslater.co.uk/thread...y-2019.118929/

some nicer stock here, panel meters, boxes labelled GPO and Decca, etc:

https://www.28dayslater.co.uk/thread...y-2019.118578/

I think one of their addresses was

34 - 36 AMERICA LANE, HAYWARDS HEATH, SUSEX RH16 3QU

Owain

hey owain, yh its this site id like to visit and take some pictures for myself, but seems a very well kept secret amongst a few explores, even when you have helped them with the unkown sites ah well, thanks for your time thou
fella

On Saturday, 13 July 2019 20:57:24 UTC+1, wrote:
On Saturday, 13 July 2019 20:34:54 UTC+1, wrote:
hey owain, you mentioned on another post u got some stuff
from j bull of haywards heath, I I know its gone but can
you remind where it was located please

In the "Wanted old MK ,metal clad light switches" thread

Their Haywards Heath site is now derelict:

https://www.28dayslater.co.uk/thread...y-2019.118929/

some nicer stock here, panel meters, boxes labelled GPO and Decca, etc:

https://www.28dayslater.co.uk/thread...y-2019.118578/

I think one of their addresses was

34 - 36 AMERICA LANE, HAYWARDS HEATH, SUSEX RH16 3QU

Owain

ideally id like to leave a calling card for one of the cars

Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
On 13/07/2019 19:00, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer explained :
That's interesting, for assuming that it predates the incursion of
electronics by several years, your description of differing operation
front and back suggests to me some form of DC operation entailing
a permanent magnet.

So far as I remember, they use two separate solenoid coils and two
terminals. One coil fires it one way, the other the opposite way.

Curious, then, that the ding should be missing on both front and back

Does this have two long tubes? if so you can usually fiddle with the
position of the tube to the donger.

In message ,
writes

Burglar alarm sounders run on 12 volts (DC, but AC/DC bells are
available) if you really want a 12 volt.

With 12v, fun could be had. Old car horns. Perhaps a Morris Minor for
the front door, and Cortina for the back :-)
--
Graeme

You don't need a new bell just a clean out and a new spring. The bell works
simply like a solenoid.
The spring brings the plunger back and it overshoots and hits the dong then
goes back to the middle again.
I had one for years.
As for AC bell transformers, and new bells the answer is it depends. Its
pretty trivial to add a bridge rectifier and convert to DC inside a box
somewhere but you need to know the working voltage and current of the new
ball and if its wrong it might just be cheaper to get a psu for the new one.
I on the other hand used to enjoy repurposing stuff and indeed repairing
bells. There is nothing wrong with those old chimes unless you need a
repeater somewhere else in the property. If you are going to do that then
get a wireless door intercom.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Muddymike" wrote in message
o.uk...
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer Dings:-)
Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I need an AC or DC
bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland 764 transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this thing
is DC or AC?

Mike

Yes the transformers are just that. as I say its simply operating a solenoid
and has switches to stop it or springs to make it go both ways. The reason
a ding or a dong is not working is usually switch, spring or dirt related.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 13/07/2019 16:43, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I need
an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland 764
transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this thing
is DC or AC?

Its DC when you use batteries and AC when you use a transformer. ie most
door bells work with both.

https://www.friedland.co.uk/en-GB/Ch...ages/D117.aspx

--
Adam

In article ,
Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I need
an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland 764
transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this thing
is DC or AC?

A ding dong is simply a solenoid, and will work from either. Have you
tried cleaning it and making sure the spring return still works?

That Friedland transformer will be AC. If you want a basic doorbell, that
will be OK on AC.

--
*Middle age is when work is a lot less fun - and fun a lot more work.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Brian Gaff formulated on Sunday :
Yes the transformers are just that. as I say its simply operating a solenoid
and has switches to stop it or springs to make it go both ways. The reason
a ding or a dong is not working is usually switch, spring or dirt related.

There are no switches, apart from the bell push contacts. The solenoid
slug is pulled one way to create the ding, as the button is released
the slug is pulled by the spring against the 'dong' bar.

Brian Gaff explained on 14/07/2019 :
You don't need a new bell just a clean out and a new spring. The bell works
simply like a solenoid.

You don't, unless the plastic has been deformed by heat as a result of
the bell push contacts being shorted. The solenoids are not designed to
be powered up for long.

On 14/07/2019 08:34, Brian Gaff wrote:
You don't need a new bell just a clean out and a new spring. The bell works
simply like a solenoid.
The spring brings the plunger back and it overshoots and hits the dong then
goes back to the middle again.

Ive taken it down and cleaned it thoroughly. Both springs seem fine,
both gongs sound nicely when struck with the screwdriver handle yet
still it only Dongs so Ive wired both door pushes to the Dong end so we
at least hear something whichever door push is pushed.

Now off to order a 12v replacement as I'm fed up with fiddling with it!

Ive saved a picture of the innards here.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwzjpno6fu..._4404.jpg?dl=0

or

https://tinyurl.com/y4f3dsfb

Mike

On Sun, 14 Jul 2019 14:04:04 +0100, Muddymike
wrote:


Ive taken it down and cleaned it thoroughly. Both springs seem fine,
both gongs sound nicely when struck with the screwdriver handle yet
still it only Dongs so Ive wired both door pushes to the Dong end so we
at least hear something whichever door push is pushed.

Checked voltage reaching solenoid?
We only have one push but similar trouble when the button contacts
corroded a bit.

On 14/07/2019 16:19, Geo wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jul 2019 14:04:04 +0100, Muddymike
wrote:


Ive taken it down and cleaned it thoroughly. Both springs seem fine,
both gongs sound nicely when struck with the screwdriver handle yet
still it only Dongs so Ive wired both door pushes to the Dong end so we
at least hear something whichever door push is pushed.

Checked voltage reaching solenoid?
We only have one push but similar trouble when the button contacts
corroded a bit.


FFS just let the OP buy a new door bell (not just to you but also to the
other posters). It's a ****ed 40 years old door bell.



--
Adam

On Sunday, 14 July 2019 16:35:08 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
FFS just let the OP buy a new door bell (not just to you but also to the
other posters). It's a ****ed 40 years old door bell.

That's still quite new.

I've got one that's 50 years old.

And most of my phone bells are well into their seventh decade if not older.

On Saturday, 13 July 2019 16:43:19 UTC+1, Muddymike wrote:
We have an ancient Freidland door chime which Dongs but no longer
Dings:-) Ive been looking for a replacement but cant work out if I need
an AC or DC bell unit to continue using the current 12v Freidland 764
transformer.

So far Google hasn't been very helpful, do any of you know if this thing
is DC or AC?

Mike

They usually just need cleaning up a bit. Wire wool. Nooil.
ISTR on some models, it went ding dong on one push and just ding on the other. So you knew which door had the visitor.

I further STR that it had a leaf spring that centred the solenoid.

On 14/07/2019 17:12, wrote:
On Sunday, 14 July 2019 16:35:08 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
FFS just let the OP buy a new door bell (not just to you but also to the
other posters). It's a ****ed 40 years old door bell.

That's still quite new.

I've got one that's 50 years old.

And most of my phone bells are well into their seventh decade if not older.


That does not change the fact that the OPs door bell is ****ed.

--
Adam

On Sun, 14 Jul 2019 09:12:03 -0700, spuorgelgoog wrote:

I've got one that's 50 years old.

And most of my phone bells are well into their seventh decade if not
older.

That's only 'cos no one ever calls. :-




--
Leave first - THEN negotiate!

ARW wrote:
On 14/07/2019 16:19, Geo wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jul 2019 14:04:04 +0100, Muddymike
wrote:


Ive taken it down and cleaned it thoroughly. Both springs seem fine,
both gongs sound nicely when struck with the screwdriver handle yet
still it only Dongs so Ive wired both door pushes to the Dong end
so we at least hear something whichever door push is pushed.

Checked voltage reaching solenoid?
We only have one push but similar trouble when the button contacts
corroded a bit.


FFS just let the OP buy a new door bell (not just to you but also to
the other posters). It's a ****ed 40 years old door bell.

Agreed.
He is a stupid skint psycholist. As they all are.

On Sunday, 14 July 2019 17:59:44 UTC+1, Cursitor Doom wrote:
And most of my phone bells are well into their seventh decade if not
older.
That's only 'cos no one ever calls. :-

Technically true, on the landline. All incoming calls are VoIP

Owain

On 14/07/2019 17:12, wrote:
On Sunday, 14 July 2019 16:35:08 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
FFS just let the OP buy a new door bell (not just to you but also to the
other posters). It's a ****ed 40 years old door bell.

That's still quite new.

I've got one that's 50 years old.

And most of my phone bells are well into their seventh decade if not older.



I've a couple of Tele F's in the domestic field telephone set up,
they're getting on fo 90 years old.

On Sun, 14 Jul 2019 16:35:06 +0100, ARW wrote:

FFS just let the OP buy a new door bell (not just to you but also to the
other posters). It's a ****ed 40 years old door bell.

Maybe but it's real proper doorbell with lumps of resonant metal to
go Bing Bong not some nasty electronicaly generated noise.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 14/07/2019 21:33, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jul 2019 16:35:06 +0100, ARW wrote:

FFS just let the OP buy a new door bell (not just to you but also to the
other posters). It's a ****ed 40 years old door bell.

Maybe but it's real proper doorbell with lumps of resonant metal to
go Bing Bong not some nasty electronicaly generated noise.


It might have done when it worked.



--
Adam

"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 14/07/2019 16:19, Geo wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jul 2019 14:04:04 +0100, Muddymike
wrote:


Ive taken it down and cleaned it thoroughly. Both springs seem fine,
both gongs sound nicely when struck with the screwdriver handle yet
still it only Dongs so Ive wired both door pushes to the Dong end so we
at least hear something whichever door push is pushed.

Checked voltage reaching solenoid?
We only have one push but similar trouble when the button contacts
corroded a bit.


FFS just let the OP buy a new door bell (not just to you but also to the
other posters). It's a ****ed 40 years old door bell.

Gunna be hilarious when the new one does the same thing.