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2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

Planning to use the new Lidl Cordless Angle Grinder (since there is no
mains where it is parked), also it has variable speed so can start at
about 1000 rpm. NOT with abrasive paper, I hasten to add.

I was thinking about using felt disks, either the plane ones or the ones
with a set of overlapping pads together with a polishing compound.

Comments?

Also any recommended UV lacquer to finish?
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On 12/07/2019 15:30, newshound wrote:
2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

Planning to use the new Lidl Cordless Angle Grinder (since there is no
mains where it is parked), also it has variable speed so can start at
about 1000 rpm. NOT with abrasive paper, I hasten to add.

I was thinking about using felt disks, either the plane ones or the ones
with a set of overlapping pads together with a polishing compound.

Comments?

Also any recommended UV lacquer to finish?


I had an MOT advisory this year of "product on headlights"....do they
think I'm a boy racer in a fart can or what? ......I'm just going to use
toothpaste and an old toothbrush ......product my arse......
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After serious thinking Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote :
I had an MOT advisory this year of "product on headlights"....do they think
I'm a boy racer in a fart can or what? ......I'm just going to use toothpaste
and an old toothbrush ......product my arse......


They are easy to polish up with toothpaste, autosol, or colourcut, but
once done they will decline more rapidly, because the UV coating has
been removed. I would like to know what UV coating works.
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On 12/07/2019 17:44, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote :
I had an MOT advisory this year of "product on headlights"....do they
think I'm a boy racer in a fart can or what? ......I'm just going to
use toothpaste and an old toothbrush ......product my arse......


They are easy to polish up with toothpaste, autosol, or colourcut, but
once done they will decline more rapidly, because the UV coating has
been removed. I would like to know what UV coating works.


Yacht varnish?

Clear self adhesive window film?
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dennis@home used his keyboard to write :
Yacht varnish?

Clear self adhesive window film?


They are polycarb I think, so what ever used needs to not attack that
material - could be expensive if it does make a headlight lens craze.

Mine are sort of OK, but could do with a polish up. I bought a kit,
which included sachets of some cream which was supposed to retard the
hazing.


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On 12/07/2019 18:44, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
dennis@home used his keyboard to write :
Yacht varnish?

Clear self adhesive window film?


They are polycarb I think, so what ever used needs to not attack that
material - could be expensive if it does make a headlight lens craze.

Mine are sort of OK, but could do with a polish up. I bought a kit,
which included sachets of some cream which was supposed to retard the
hazing.



I would be tempted to try Foam Gun Cleaner, which is acetone.

I use this on my white upvc windows when spiders and other
insects leave brown stain marks.

Seems to work a treat.
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On 12/07/2019 18:44, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
dennis@home used his keyboard to write :
Yacht varnish?

Clear self adhesive window film?


They are polycarb I think, so what ever used needs to not attack that
material - could be expensive if it does make a headlight lens craze.

Mine are sort of OK, but could do with a polish up. I bought a kit,
which included sachets of some cream which was supposed to retard the
hazing.



https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...er-works-best/
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It happens that dennis@home formulated :

https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...er-works-best/


Thanks, but all those just report the immediate result. I am more
interested in how well it lasts, the UV protection.

I can get my lens back to gleaming with what I have at the moment, I
have done it before, but given a few months they are as bad again due
to lack of UV protection.
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On 12/07/2019 18:53, Andrew wrote:
On 12/07/2019 18:44, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
dennis@home used his keyboard to write :
Yacht varnish?

Clear self adhesive window film?


They are polycarb I think, so what ever used needs to not attack that
material - could be expensive if it does make a headlight lens craze.

Mine are sort of OK, but could do with a polish up. I bought a kit,
which included sachets of some cream which was supposed to retard the
hazing.



I would be tempted to try Foam Gun Cleaner, which is acetone.

I use this on my white upvc windows when spiders and other
insects leave brown stain marks.

Seems to work a treat.


Really bad advice to put acetone on polycarbonate. Google it.
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On 13/07/2019 09:56, Brian Gaff wrote:
I thought this was UV damage and could not be cleared without some kind of
replacement?
Certainly another famous French car seems to have this issue.
Brian


It is UV damage.
Its only on the surface and as far as I know its caused by overzealous
polishing that removes the UV coating.

If it were a manufacturing fault they would probably cloud on the inside
too as there is a lot of UV from halogen lamps and even more from HID lamps.

There are various UV varnishes that can be applied to increase the UV
resistance once the misting has been polished off.
I use Vallero matt varnish on models to do this as its an water based
acrylic that works quite well.

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On 13/07/2019 09:56, Brian Gaff wrote:
I thought this was UV damage and could not be cleared without some kind of
replacement?
Certainly another famous French car seems to have this issue.
Brian

the french can't make a good car......or the italians ...
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On Friday, 12 July 2019 17:44:55 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote :
I had an MOT advisory this year of "product on headlights"....do they think
I'm a boy racer in a fart can or what? ......I'm just going to use toothpaste
and an old toothbrush ......product my arse......


They are easy to polish up with toothpaste, autosol, or colourcut, but
once done they will decline more rapidly, because the UV coating has
been removed. I would like to know what UV coating works.


Not no way. I spent absolutely ages trying things like that - both manually and using power tools. Made not more than the slightest impact. Had them done by a friendly local car fixer using a serious grinder. The frosting effect was far too deep to expect things like toothpaste or T-cut to work. The result was not perfect but good enough to get through MoT and see where I was driving.
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On 13/07/2019 13:56, polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Friday, 12 July 2019 17:44:55 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote :
I had an MOT advisory this year of "product on headlights"....do they think
I'm a boy racer in a fart can or what? ......I'm just going to use toothpaste
and an old toothbrush ......product my arse......


They are easy to polish up with toothpaste, autosol, or colourcut, but
once done they will decline more rapidly, because the UV coating has
been removed. I would like to know what UV coating works.


Not no way. I spent absolutely ages trying things like that - both manually and using power tools. Made not more than the slightest impact. Had them done by a friendly local car fixer using a serious grinder. The frosting effect was far too deep to expect things like toothpaste or T-cut to work. The result was not perfect but good enough to get through MoT and see where I was driving.


Be careful from which shelf you pick up things.

Autosol and Alusol should not be confused with Anusol :-)

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On 13/07/2019 13:56, polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Friday, 12 July 2019 17:44:55 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote :
I had an MOT advisory this year of "product on headlights"....do they think
I'm a boy racer in a fart can or what? ......I'm just going to use toothpaste
and an old toothbrush ......product my arse......


They are easy to polish up with toothpaste, autosol, or colourcut, but
once done they will decline more rapidly, because the UV coating has
been removed. I would like to know what UV coating works.


Not no way. I spent absolutely ages trying things like that - both manually and using power tools. Made not more than the slightest impact. Had them done by a friendly local car fixer using a serious grinder. The frosting effect was far too deep to expect things like toothpaste or T-cut to work. The result was not perfect but good enough to get through MoT and see where I was driving.


Interesting. So maybe some of the (US) posts that say you have to go
through the abrasive papers first are correct. I will report back after
trying a heavy cutting compound on felt at 10,000 rpm.


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After serious thinking newshound wrote :
Interesting. So maybe some of the (US) posts that say you have to go through
the abrasive papers first are correct. I will report back after trying a
heavy cutting compound on felt at 10,000 rpm.


10,000 RPM will heat it up and wreck it. Slow and steady with water for
lubrication is the way to go.
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Brian Gaff wrote :
I thought this was UV damage and could not be cleared without some kind of
replacement?
Certainly another famous French car seems to have this issue.
Brian


Lots of modern car headlights have this issue. Polycarbonate absorbs
UV, which crazes the out surfaces. So surface removal works, but when
manufactured, they had some sort of UV proofing coating. That coating
eventually wears away, leaving the polycarbonate with little
protection. Fine abrasive polishing brings the clarity, but with none
of the original protection, they very quickly degrade again.

Ideally, what is needed is a DIY clear spray, which is proof against UV
to protect the polycarbonate lens once it has been restored.
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"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
...
Brian Gaff wrote :
I thought this was UV damage and could not be cleared without some kind
of
replacement?
Certainly another famous French car seems to have this issue.
Brian


Lots of modern car headlights have this issue. Polycarbonate absorbs UV,
which crazes the out surfaces. So surface removal works, but when
manufactured, they had some sort of UV proofing coating. That coating
eventually wears away, leaving the polycarbonate with little protection.
Fine abrasive polishing brings the clarity, but with none of the original
protection, they very quickly degrade again.

Ideally, what is needed is a DIY clear spray, which is proof against UV to
protect the polycarbonate lens once it has been restored.


bring back glass headlights ...


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On Saturday, 13 July 2019 15:13:11 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 13/07/2019 13:56, polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Friday, 12 July 2019 17:44:55 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote :
I had an MOT advisory this year of "product on headlights"....do they think
I'm a boy racer in a fart can or what? ......I'm just going to use toothpaste
and an old toothbrush ......product my arse......

They are easy to polish up with toothpaste, autosol, or colourcut, but
once done they will decline more rapidly, because the UV coating has
been removed. I would like to know what UV coating works.


Not no way. I spent absolutely ages trying things like that - both manually and using power tools. Made not more than the slightest impact. Had them done by a friendly local car fixer using a serious grinder. The frosting effect was far too deep to expect things like toothpaste or T-cut to work. The result was not perfect but good enough to get through MoT and see where I was driving.


Interesting. So maybe some of the (US) posts that say you have to go
through the abrasive papers first are correct. I will report back after
trying a heavy cutting compound on felt at 10,000 rpm.


Sorry, cannot comment at all on the actual process - as I didn't do it myself. But be careful. There are loads of kits available - again, I don't know anything about them.

Thinking back, we had already complained to the main dealer and they did a very half-hearted job. The headlamp had never been mistreated - seemed just to happen from the effect of sunlight over the years.

The local place I went to really knew about the issue and did a far better job.
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On Friday, 12 July 2019 15:30:04 UTC+1, newshound wrote:

2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

Planning to use the new Lidl Cordless Angle Grinder (since there is no
mains where it is parked), also it has variable speed so can start at
about 1000 rpm. NOT with abrasive paper, I hasten to add.

I was thinking about using felt disks, either the plane ones or the ones
with a set of overlapping pads together with a polishing compound.

Comments?

Also any recommended UV lacquer to finish?


Don't use power tools, just use a wiping motion by hand.


NT


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On 13/07/2019 20:02, Harry Bloomfield wrote:

Lots of modern car headlights have this issue. Polycarbonate absorbs
UV, which crazes the out surfaces. So surface removal works, but when
manufactured, they had some sort of UV proofing coating. That coating
eventually wears away, leaving the polycarbonate with little
protection. Fine abrasive polishing brings the clarity, but with none
of the original protection, they very quickly degrade again.


Ideally, what is needed is a DIY clear spray, which is proof against UV
to protect the polycarbonate lens once it has been restored.


I've used this stuff for many years on the appropriate parts of my
motorcycle:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Armor-All-G.../dp/B0001OZH1C

A semi-gloss version is also available.


--
Spike
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On 14/07/2019 09:27, Spike wrote:
On 13/07/2019 20:02, Harry Bloomfield wrote:

Lots of modern car headlights have this issue. Polycarbonate absorbs
UV, which crazes the out surfaces. So surface removal works, but when
manufactured, they had some sort of UV proofing coating. That coating
eventually wears away, leaving the polycarbonate with little
protection. Fine abrasive polishing brings the clarity, but with none
of the original protection, they very quickly degrade again.


Ideally, what is needed is a DIY clear spray, which is proof against UV
to protect the polycarbonate lens once it has been restored.


I've used this stuff for many years on the appropriate parts of my
motorcycle:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Armor-All-G.../dp/B0001OZH1C

A semi-gloss version is also available.


That looks useful, and not silly money, and claims to include a UV
filter. I think I would still worry slightly that it might "attack"
polycarbonate (in spite of saying safe on plastic).

I think I might be happier with this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-39173-Qu...20534429&psc=1
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On 14/07/2019 16:40, newshound wrote:
On 14/07/2019 09:27, Spike wrote:
On 13/07/2019 20:02, Harry Bloomfield wrote:


Lots of modern car headlights have this issue. Polycarbonate absorbs
UV, which crazes the out surfaces. So surface removal works, but when
manufactured, they had some sort of UV proofing coating. That coating
eventually wears away, leaving the polycarbonate with little
protection. Fine abrasive polishing brings the clarity, but with none
of the original protection, they very quickly degrade again.


Ideally, what is needed is a DIY clear spray, which is proof against UV
to protect the polycarbonate lens once it has been restored.


I've used this stuff for many years on the appropriate parts of my
motorcycle:


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Armor-All-G.../dp/B0001OZH1C


A semi-gloss version is also available.


That looks useful, and not silly money, and claims to include a UV
filter. I think I would still worry slightly that it might "attack"
polycarbonate (in spite of saying safe on plastic).


My machine's 30 years old next year, and the plastic and rubber parts
are just fine. The headlamp lens is glass but the other lenses are
plastic and they are just as they came out of the factory. Armor-All is
I believe water-based rather than VOC'd and has the appearance of cow's
milk.

I think I might be happier with this


https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-39173-Qu...20534429&psc=1


3M is a top company, I've done research using their materials; that
product looks OK. My personal preference is not to abrade the lens
surface but to use a UV filter/blocker and slow the deterioration.

--
Spike
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On 14/07/2019 18:10, Spike wrote:
On 14/07/2019 16:40, newshound wrote:
On 14/07/2019 09:27, Spike wrote:
On 13/07/2019 20:02, Harry Bloomfield wrote:


Lots of modern car headlights have this issue. Polycarbonate absorbs
UV, which crazes the out surfaces. So surface removal works, but when
manufactured, they had some sort of UV proofing coating. That coating
eventually wears away, leaving the polycarbonate with little
protection. Fine abrasive polishing brings the clarity, but with none
of the original protection, they very quickly degrade again.


Ideally, what is needed is a DIY clear spray, which is proof against UV
to protect the polycarbonate lens once it has been restored.


I've used this stuff for many years on the appropriate parts of my
motorcycle:


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Armor-All-G.../dp/B0001OZH1C


A semi-gloss version is also available.


That looks useful, and not silly money, and claims to include a UV
filter. I think I would still worry slightly that it might "attack"
polycarbonate (in spite of saying safe on plastic).


My machine's 30 years old next year, and the plastic and rubber parts
are just fine. The headlamp lens is glass but the other lenses are
plastic and they are just as they came out of the factory. Armor-All is
I believe water-based rather than VOC'd and has the appearance of cow's
milk.

I think I might be happier with this


https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-39173-Qu...20534429&psc=1


3M is a top company, I've done research using their materials; that
product looks OK. My personal preference is not to abrade the lens
surface but to use a UV filter/blocker and slow the deterioration.

Thanks, useful info. My problem is that it's a 15 year old vehicle that
I have had for five years, it was already degrading when I got it. But,
agreed, if I had treated it then I might still be OK now.

Just ordered a bottle of Armor-All, for after I've done some polishing.
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On Saturday, July 13, 2019 at 12:41:36 PM UTC+1, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 13/07/2019 09:56, Brian Gaff wrote:
I thought this was UV damage and could not be cleared without some kind of
replacement?
Certainly another famous French car seems to have this issue.
Brian

the french can't make a good car......or the italians ...


And the British? (Not counting cars made in Britain by forign manufacturer)


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On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 15:30:01 +0100
newshound wrote:

2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

When my car failed the MOT for having no discernible beam pattern ("We
can fit new ones for you ...") I decided to first thoroughly clean the
lenses before getting stuck in with the wet and dry. One of the
cleaners I had to hand was sugar soap, and to my surprise it
significantly reduced the haziness, such that a quick rub over with
metal polish had the beams nice and crisp. I think the guys at the
garage were surprised to see me back so soon.

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On 23/07/2019 06:46, Rob Morley wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 15:30:01 +0100
newshound wrote:

2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

When my car failed the MOT for having no discernible beam pattern ("We
can fit new ones for you ...") I decided to first thoroughly clean the
lenses before getting stuck in with the wet and dry. One of the
cleaners I had to hand was sugar soap, and to my surprise it
significantly reduced the haziness, such that a quick rub over with
metal polish had the beams nice and crisp. I think the guys at the
garage were surprised to see me back so soon.


I see several different early Focuses with cloudy lights each year for
their tests, after a normal wash of the lights I use a lump of body clay
and dilute detergent to clean them, then Mcguirs RX headlight polish,
they all respond well to this every year, and it is very quick to do.
What I do notice is that the residue of the cleaning has a green tinge
to it, so I wonder if it is some sort of algae that grows on the lens?
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On 23/07/2019 07:20, MrCheerful wrote:
On 23/07/2019 06:46, Rob Morley wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 15:30:01 +0100
newshound wrote:

2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

When my car failed the MOT for having no discernible beam pattern ("We
can fit new ones for you ...") I decided to first thoroughly clean the
lenses before getting stuck in with the wet and dry.Â* One of the
cleaners I had to hand was sugar soap, and to my surprise it
significantly reduced the haziness, such that a quick rub over with
metal polish had the beams nice and crisp.Â* I think the guys at the
garage were surprised to see me back so soon.


I see several different early Focuses with cloudy lights each year for
their tests, after a normal wash of the lights I use a lump of body clay
and dilute detergent to clean them, then Mcguirs RX headlight polish,
they all respond well to this every year, and it is very quick to do.
What I do notice is that the residue of the cleaning has a green tinge
to it, so I wonder if it is some sort of algae that grows on the lens?


Someone on youtube swears by cleaning the plastic with wet-and-dry
ultra-fine grade then just covering the lens with clingfilm.

when that gets mucky, peel it off and stick some more clingfilm on.
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Andrew wrote in news:qh7i1c$vh0$2
@gioia.aioe.org:

On 23/07/2019 07:20, MrCheerful wrote:
On 23/07/2019 06:46, Rob Morley wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 15:30:01 +0100
newshound wrote:

2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

When my car failed the MOT for having no discernible beam pattern

("We
can fit new ones for you ...") I decided to first thoroughly clean

the
lenses before getting stuck in with the wet and dry.Â* One of the
cleaners I had to hand was sugar soap, and to my surprise it
significantly reduced the haziness, such that a quick rub over with
metal polish had the beams nice and crisp.Â* I think the guys at the
garage were surprised to see me back so soon.


I see several different early Focuses with cloudy lights each year for
their tests, after a normal wash of the lights I use a lump of body

clay
and dilute detergent to clean them, then Mcguirs RX headlight polish,
they all respond well to this every year, and it is very quick to do.
What I do notice is that the residue of the cleaning has a green tinge
to it, so I wonder if it is some sort of algae that grows on the lens?


Someone on youtube swears by cleaning the plastic with wet-and-dry
ultra-fine grade then just covering the lens with clingfilm.

when that gets mucky, peel it off and stick some more clingfilm on.


I tried all sorts, but when my car came back from passing its MOT the
garage had cleared it using T-CUT and WATER. Should have asked them
sooner.

--
Jim S
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On 23/07/2019 19:00, Andrew wrote:
On 23/07/2019 07:20, MrCheerful wrote:
On 23/07/2019 06:46, Rob Morley wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 15:30:01 +0100
newshound wrote:

2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

When my car failed the MOT for having no discernible beam pattern ("We
can fit new ones for you ...") I decided to first thoroughly clean the
lenses before getting stuck in with the wet and dry.Â* One of the
cleaners I had to hand was sugar soap, and to my surprise it
significantly reduced the haziness, such that a quick rub over with
metal polish had the beams nice and crisp.Â* I think the guys at the
garage were surprised to see me back so soon.


I see several different early Focuses with cloudy lights each year for
their tests, after a normal wash of the lights I use a lump of body
clay and dilute detergent to clean them, then Mcguirs RX headlight
polish, they all respond well to this every year, and it is very quick
to do. What I do notice is that the residue of the cleaning has a
green tinge to it, so I wonder if it is some sort of algae that grows
on the lens?


Someone on youtube swears by cleaning the plastic with wet-and-dry
ultra-fine grade then just covering the lens with clingfilm.

when that gets mucky, peel it off and stick some more clingfilm on.



I will try r=that on the next one that is convenient.



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In message , Jim S
writes
Andrew wrote in news:qh7i1c$vh0$2
:

On 23/07/2019 07:20, MrCheerful wrote:
On 23/07/2019 06:46, Rob Morley wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 15:30:01 +0100
newshound wrote:

2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

When my car failed the MOT for having no discernible beam pattern

("We
can fit new ones for you ...") I decided to first thoroughly clean

the
lenses before getting stuck in with the wet and dry.Â* One of the
cleaners I had to hand was sugar soap, and to my surprise it
significantly reduced the haziness, such that a quick rub over with
metal polish had the beams nice and crisp.Â* I think the guys at the
garage were surprised to see me back so soon.


I see several different early Focuses with cloudy lights each year for
their tests, after a normal wash of the lights I use a lump of body

clay
and dilute detergent to clean them, then Mcguirs RX headlight polish,
they all respond well to this every year, and it is very quick to do.
What I do notice is that the residue of the cleaning has a green tinge
to it, so I wonder if it is some sort of algae that grows on the lens?


Someone on youtube swears by cleaning the plastic with wet-and-dry
ultra-fine grade then just covering the lens with clingfilm.

when that gets mucky, peel it off and stick some more clingfilm on.


I tried all sorts, but when my car came back from passing its MOT the
garage had cleared it using T-CUT and WATER. Should have asked them
sooner.

I would have thought that well-thinned T-Cut would work - and I guess
that Brasso or Silvo would work too.
--
Ian
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On 24/07/2019 10:36, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Jim S
writes
Andrew wrote in news:qh7i1c$vh0$2
@gioia.aioe.org:

On 23/07/2019 07:20, MrCheerful wrote:
On 23/07/2019 06:46, Rob Morley wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 15:30:01 +0100
newshound wrote:

2004 Renault Master. Some of the online links suggest you have to go
back to 300 grit to remove enough material, can this be right?

When my car failed the MOT for having no discernible beam pattern

("We
can fit new ones for you ...") I decided to first thoroughly clean

the
lenses before getting stuck in with the wet and dry.ÂÂ* One of the
cleaners I had to hand was sugar soap, and to my surprise it
significantly reduced the haziness, such that a quick rub over with
metal polish had the beams nice and crisp.ÂÂ* I think the guys at the
garage were surprised to see me back so soon.


I see several different early Focuses with cloudy lights each year for
their tests, after a normal wash of the lights I use a lump of body

clay
and dilute detergent to clean them, then Mcguirs RX headlight polish,
they all respond well to this every year, and it is very quick to do.
What I do notice is that the residue of the cleaning has a green tinge
to it, so I wonder if it is some sort of algae that grows on the lens?

Someone on youtube swears by cleaning the plastic with wet-and-dry
ultra-fine grade then just covering the lens with clingfilm.

when that gets mucky, peel it off and stick some more clingfilm on.


I tried all sorts, but when my car came back from passing its MOT the
garage had cleared it using T-CUT and WATER. Should have asked them
sooner.

I would have thought that well-thinned T-Cut would work - and I guess
that Brasso or Silvo would work too.


Mine came up pretty well using standard domestic "cream cleaner". Using
a felt wheel on a variable cordless speed angle grinder I found it easy
enough to avoid melting by keeping the speed down and not using the
corner of the pad (on the Master there is plenty of "lens" that is just
over decorative chrome, so you can check your technique on this region).
But, the cheap pads are rather "bumpy" so it isn't very easy to do. I
finished them off by hand, but that was quite hard work.
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On Wed, 24 Jul 2019 13:12:41 +0100
newshound wrote:

). But, the cheap pads are rather "bumpy" so it isn't
very easy to do. I finished them off by hand, but that was quite hard
work.


But I'm sure they were grateful. ;-)
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On 24/07/2019 20:49, Rob Morley wrote:
On Wed, 24 Jul 2019 13:12:41 +0100
newshound wrote:

). But, the cheap pads are rather "bumpy" so it isn't
very easy to do. I finished them off by hand, but that was quite hard
work.


But I'm sure they were grateful. ;-)

Just had delivery today of a disk with about 24 square felt pads around
the rim, set overlapping (if you know what I mean). There are abrasive
paper disks designed a bit like this too. From a quick trial on a spare
piece of perspex, this looks as though it will be good on headlights.
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Ian Jackson formulated on Wednesday :
I would have thought that well-thinned T-Cut would work - and I guess that
Brasso or Silvo would work too.


Absolutely any fine abrasive polish will bring the lens up.


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On 25/07/2019 08:59, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Ian Jackson formulated on Wednesday :
I would have thought that well-thinned T-Cut would work - and I guess
that Brasso or Silvo would work too.


Absolutely any fine abrasive polish will bring the lens up.


There used to be something called 'Jewellers Rouge'
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On Thu, 25 Jul 2019 11:59:00 +0100
Andrew wrote:

There used to be something called 'Jewellers Rouge'


There still is - I bought some on eBay a few months back. It's just
ferric oxide in a very fine powder form.

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Rob Morley pretended :
On Thu, 25 Jul 2019 11:59:00 +0100
Andrew wrote:

There used to be something called 'Jewellers Rouge'


There still is - I bought some on eBay a few months back. It's just
ferric oxide in a very fine powder form.


Absolutely any fine abrasive polish will work, including toothpaste. If
the lens is in really poor condition, then begin with a fine wet and
dry paper, plus water. Don't use a drill or similar, except slowly with
water spray to keep it cool. Polycarbonate is easy to melt with too
much heat from friction.

There is still the problem of once they are clear and sparkely, they
will not remain that way for long, once the UV gets at them. They are
obviously protected by some means when they leave the factory, but that
wears of eventually. The best idea I have heard suggested spraying them
once polished up, with the clear lacquer as used on car paint work.

I have never had the courage to risk my lenses with that, but has
anyone tried it? What does the panel think?
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On 27/07/2019 09:56, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Rob Morley pretended :
On Thu, 25 Jul 2019 11:59:00 +0100
Andrew wrote:

There used to be something called 'Jewellers Rouge'


There still is - I bought some on eBay a few months back.* It's just
ferric oxide in a very fine powder form.


Absolutely any fine abrasive polish will work, including toothpaste. If
the lens is in really poor condition, then begin with a fine wet and dry
paper, plus water. Don't use a drill or similar, except slowly with
water spray to keep it cool. Polycarbonate is easy to melt with too much
heat from friction.

There is still the problem of once they are clear and sparkely, they
will not remain that way for long, once the UV gets at them. They are
obviously protected by some means when they leave the factory, but that
wears of eventually. The best idea I have heard suggested spraying them
once polished up, with the clear lacquer as used on car paint work.

I have never had the courage to risk my lenses with that, but has anyone
tried it? What does the panel think?


The advice was never paint a polycarb crash helmet.

Followed by never put stickers on polycarb crash helmets.

The reason being that you can never tell what solvents are in the paint
or glue and what effect they have on polycarb.
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On 27/07/2019 13:37, Peter Hill wrote:
On 27/07/2019 09:56, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Rob Morley pretended :
On Thu, 25 Jul 2019 11:59:00 +0100
Andrew wrote:

There used to be something called 'Jewellers Rouge'

There still is - I bought some on eBay a few months back.* It's just
ferric oxide in a very fine powder form.


Absolutely any fine abrasive polish will work, including toothpaste.
If the lens is in really poor condition, then begin with a fine wet
and dry paper, plus water. Don't use a drill or similar, except slowly
with water spray to keep it cool. Polycarbonate is easy to melt with
too much heat from friction.

There is still the problem of once they are clear and sparkely, they
will not remain that way for long, once the UV gets at them. They are
obviously protected by some means when they leave the factory, but
that wears of eventually. The best idea I have heard suggested
spraying them once polished up, with the clear lacquer as used on car
paint work.

I have never had the courage to risk my lenses with that, but has
anyone tried it? What does the panel think?


The advice was never paint a polycarb crash helmet.

Followed by never put stickers on polycarb crash helmets.

The reason being that you can never tell what solvents are in the paint
or glue and what effect they have on polycarb.


Polycarbonate is quite sensitive to environmental stress cracking when
exposed to polar solvents. Headlamp recovery kits typically come with a
UV resistant lacquer that is presumably compatible.
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