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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

Following advice I am mounting (or trying to) single 13 amp sockets with a
flip lid into the floorboards.

I ordered Appleby dry lining boxes from Screwfix.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-47mm-dry-lining-box/83270

After a major struggle I managed to get the Cat5e faceplate into the first
box, and worked out that the screw holes were not quite lining up because
of the method of fixing into the hole.

The yellow tabs fold into the inside of the box, then fold out through the
wall after you have inserted the back box through the hole.

I'm sure that I have used these successfully in plasterboard before.

The problem that I am seeing is that the yellow tabs don't quite fold into
a vertical position - they toe in slightly - so whilst I can get the first
screw in by offsetting the face plate a bit I can't get the second screw
to take because the metal thread in the yellow tab is not quite vertical.

This is not helped by having to wrestle the sprung lid of the socket to
get at the screw heads. Any raddling of the fitting lifts the plastic box
and moves the orange tabs back down and at a far greater angle from
vertical.

Has anyone found a smart way of doing this, or can recommend another brand
of dry lining box which doesn't have this "fold out clip" arrangement?

TIA




Dave R

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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

On Tue, 02 Jul 2019 12:56:57 +0000, David wrote:

Following advice I am mounting (or trying to) single 13 amp sockets with
a flip lid into the floorboards.

I ordered Appleby dry lining boxes from Screwfix.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-47mm-dry-lining-box/83270

After a major struggle I managed to get the Cat5e faceplate into the
first box, and worked out that the screw holes were not quite lining up
because of the method of fixing into the hole.

The yellow tabs fold into the inside of the box, then fold out through
the wall after you have inserted the back box through the hole.

I'm sure that I have used these successfully in plasterboard before.

The problem that I am seeing is that the yellow tabs don't quite fold
into a vertical position - they toe in slightly - so whilst I can get
the first screw in by offsetting the face plate a bit I can't get the
second screw to take because the metal thread in the yellow tab is not
quite vertical.

This is not helped by having to wrestle the sprung lid of the socket to
get at the screw heads. Any raddling of the fitting lifts the plastic
box and moves the orange tabs back down and at a far greater angle from
vertical.

Has anyone found a smart way of doing this, or can recommend another
brand of dry lining box which doesn't have this "fold out clip"
arrangement?



Just worked out what it is.

Box won't fit anything deeper than about 12.5mm - 15mm.

The floorboards are about 18mm.

So I have to trim a bit of plastic off each box.

I can see now that there isn't any depth specified for the shallow box,
but the deep box says " Allows 6.35mm to 15mm plasterboard depth.".

So I have to trim about 3mm off the white plastic bits where the yellow
tab clicks in.

Ho hum.


Dave R



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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

David wrote:

Box won't fit anything deeper than about 12.5mm - 15mm.


I was just about to suggest that floorboards are thicker than
plasterboard ... will they have the strength to take being walked on?

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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

David Wrote in message:
Following advice I am mounting (or trying to) single 13 amp sockets with a
flip lid into the floorboards.

I ordered Appleby dry lining boxes from Screwfix.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-47mm-dry-lining-box/83270

After a major struggle I managed to get the Cat5e faceplate into the first
box, and worked out that the screw holes were not quite lining up because
of the method of fixing into the hole.

The yellow tabs fold into the inside of the box, then fold out through the
wall after you have inserted the back box through the hole.

I'm sure that I have used these successfully in plasterboard before.

The problem that I am seeing is that the yellow tabs don't quite fold into
a vertical position - they toe in slightly - so whilst I can get the first
screw in by offsetting the face plate a bit I can't get the second screw
to take because the metal thread in the yellow tab is not quite vertical.

This is not helped by having to wrestle the sprung lid of the socket to
get at the screw heads. Any raddling of the fitting lifts the plastic box
and moves the orange tabs back down and at a far greater angle from
vertical.

Has anyone found a smart way of doing this, or can recommend another brand
of dry lining box which doesn't have this "fold out clip" arrangement?

TIA




Dave R


Have you considered using ordinary metal back boxes & drilling
holes in their sides to allow you to screw them to the edges of
the floorboard hole?
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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

On Tue, 02 Jul 2019 14:38:09 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

Box won't fit anything deeper than about 12.5mm - 15mm.


I was just about to suggest that floorboards are thicker than
plasterboard ... will they have the strength to take being walked on?


The bit where the sockets are will not be walked on.

Under the centre of a purpose made desk close to a wall.

Cheers


Dave R



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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

On Tue, 02 Jul 2019 13:31:46 +0000, David wrote:

On Tue, 02 Jul 2019 12:56:57 +0000, David wrote:

Following advice I am mounting (or trying to) single 13 amp sockets
with a flip lid into the floorboards.

I ordered Appleby dry lining boxes from Screwfix.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-47mm-dry-lining-box/83270

After a major struggle I managed to get the Cat5e faceplate into the
first box, and worked out that the screw holes were not quite lining up
because of the method of fixing into the hole.

The yellow tabs fold into the inside of the box, then fold out through
the wall after you have inserted the back box through the hole.

I'm sure that I have used these successfully in plasterboard before.

The problem that I am seeing is that the yellow tabs don't quite fold
into a vertical position - they toe in slightly - so whilst I can get
the first screw in by offsetting the face plate a bit I can't get the
second screw to take because the metal thread in the yellow tab is not
quite vertical.

This is not helped by having to wrestle the sprung lid of the socket to
get at the screw heads. Any raddling of the fitting lifts the plastic
box and moves the orange tabs back down and at a far greater angle from
vertical.

Has anyone found a smart way of doing this, or can recommend another
brand of dry lining box which doesn't have this "fold out clip"
arrangement?



Just worked out what it is.

Box won't fit anything deeper than about 12.5mm - 15mm.

The floorboards are about 18mm.

So I have to trim a bit of plastic off each box.

I can see now that there isn't any depth specified for the shallow box,
but the deep box says " Allows 6.35mm to 15mm plasterboard depth.".

So I have to trim about 3mm off the white plastic bits where the yellow
tab clicks in.

Ho hum.



Yep - that worked.

Just need one more box and I'm done.

Mission creep with the Ethernet socket used up an extra dry lining box.

Cheers


Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

On 02/07/2019 14:31, David wrote:
On Tue, 02 Jul 2019 12:56:57 +0000, David wrote:

Following advice I am mounting (or trying to) single 13 amp sockets with
a flip lid into the floorboards.

I ordered Appleby dry lining boxes from Screwfix.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-47mm-dry-lining-box/83270

After a major struggle I managed to get the Cat5e faceplate into the
first box, and worked out that the screw holes were not quite lining up
because of the method of fixing into the hole.

The yellow tabs fold into the inside of the box, then fold out through
the wall after you have inserted the back box through the hole.

I'm sure that I have used these successfully in plasterboard before.

The problem that I am seeing is that the yellow tabs don't quite fold
into a vertical position - they toe in slightly - so whilst I can get
the first screw in by offsetting the face plate a bit I can't get the
second screw to take because the metal thread in the yellow tab is not
quite vertical.

This is not helped by having to wrestle the sprung lid of the socket to
get at the screw heads. Any raddling of the fitting lifts the plastic
box and moves the orange tabs back down and at a far greater angle from
vertical.

Has anyone found a smart way of doing this, or can recommend another
brand of dry lining box which doesn't have this "fold out clip"
arrangement?



Just worked out what it is.

Box won't fit anything deeper than about 12.5mm - 15mm.

The floorboards are about 18mm.

So I have to trim a bit of plastic off each box.

I can see now that there isn't any depth specified for the shallow box,
but the deep box says " Allows 6.35mm to 15mm plasterboard depth.".

So I have to trim about 3mm off the white plastic bits where the yellow
tab clicks in.


On the inside of the box?


--
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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

On 02/07/2019 20:35, ARW wrote:
On 02/07/2019 14:31, David wrote:
On Tue, 02 Jul 2019 12:56:57 +0000, David wrote:

Following advice I am mounting (or trying to) single 13 amp sockets with
a flip lid into the floorboards.

I ordered Appleby dry lining boxes from Screwfix.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-47mm-dry-lining-box/83270

After a major struggle I managed to get the Cat5e faceplate into the
first box, and worked out that the screw holes were not quite lining up
because of the method of fixing into the hole.

The yellow tabs fold into the inside of the box, then fold out through
the wall after you have inserted the back box through the hole.

I'm sure that I have used these successfully in plasterboard before.

The problem that I am seeing is that the yellow tabs don't quite fold
into a vertical position - they toe in slightly - so whilst I can get
the first screw in by offsetting the face plate a bit I can't get the
second screw to take because the metal thread in the yellow tab is not
quite vertical.

This is not helped by having to wrestle the sprung lid of the socket to
get at the screw heads. Any raddling of the fitting lifts the plastic
box and moves the orange tabs back down and at a far greater angle from
vertical.

Has anyone found a smart way of doing this, or can recommend another
brand of dry lining box which doesn't have this "fold out clip"
arrangement?



Just worked out what it is.

Box won't fit anything deeper than about 12.5mm - 15mm.

The floorboards are about 18mm.

So I have to trim a bit of plastic off each box.

I can see now that there isn't any depth specified for the shallow box,
but the deep box says " Allows 6.35mm to 15mm plasterboard depth.".

So I have to trim about 3mm off the white plastic bits where the yellow
tab clicks in.


On the inside of the box?


Sorry just realised you said Appleby.

The modification for your needs is shown in this picture.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Appelbymod.jpg

The right hand lug in the picture had been modified (in this case) with
toe nail clippers. Two small snips and it is done.


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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

On Tuesday, 2 July 2019 20:48:06 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

Sorry just realised you said Appleby.

The modification for your needs is shown in this picture.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Appelbymod.jpg

The right hand lug in the picture had been modified (in this case) with
toe nail clippers. Two small snips and it is done.


Whilst a bit fiddlier to do, it is better to trim the white bits from the box as this then allows the locking tabs to still function. Nothing more annoying than inadvertently pushing the lugs away when trying to insert the screws!
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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

On Tue, 02 Jul 2019 14:49:05 -0700, Mathew Newton wrote:

On Tuesday, 2 July 2019 20:48:06 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

Sorry just realised you said Appleby.

The modification for your needs is shown in this picture.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Appelbymod.jpg

The right hand lug in the picture had been modified (in this case) with
toe nail clippers. Two small snips and it is done.


Whilst a bit fiddlier to do, it is better to trim the white bits from
the box as this then allows the locking tabs to still function. Nothing
more annoying than inadvertently pushing the lugs away when trying to
insert the screws!


I just gently trimmed the white strips inside with a small wood chisel
until the space when it clipped in was about 20mm.

It worked fine.

Kicking myself for not seeing it sooner.


Cheers



Dave R


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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

In article ,
David wrote:
Following advice I am mounting (or trying to) single 13 amp sockets with a
flip lid into the floorboards.


I ordered Appleby dry lining boxes from Screwfix.


https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-47mm-dry-lining-box/83270


Why on earth would you use dry lining boxes into floorboards? Screws
through the side of a metal box would be simpler and neater.

--
*Why do psychics have to ask you for your name? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

On 02/07/2019 22:49, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 2 July 2019 20:48:06 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

Sorry just realised you said Appleby.

The modification for your needs is shown in this picture.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Appelbymod.jpg

The right hand lug in the picture had been modified (in this case) with
toe nail clippers. Two small snips and it is done.


Whilst a bit fiddlier to do, it is better to trim the white bits from the box as this then allows the locking tabs to still function. Nothing more annoying than inadvertently pushing the lugs away when trying to insert the screws!


Personally I would have bought dry liners that would have worked with a
deeper finish. But then I already knew that.

However I learnt that lesson a long time ago in exactly the same way the
OP learnt his.....


--
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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 02/07/2019 22:49, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Tuesday, 2 July 2019 20:48:06 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

Sorry just realised you said Appleby.

The modification for your needs is shown in this picture.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Appelbymod.jpg

The right hand lug in the picture had been modified (in this case) with
toe nail clippers. Two small snips and it is done.


Whilst a bit fiddlier to do, it is better to trim the white bits from the box as this then allows the locking tabs to still function. Nothing more annoying than inadvertently pushing the lugs away when trying to insert the screws!


Personally I would have bought dry liners that would have worked with a
deeper finish. But then I already knew that.


However I learnt that lesson a long time ago in exactly the same way the
OP learnt his.....


Personally can't see the point in dry liners when going into thick wood?
Only real reason for them is to get a fixing in something with little
strength, like plasterboard.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Dry lining boxes in the floorboards

On 03/07/2019 11:10, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David wrote:
Following advice I am mounting (or trying to) single 13 amp sockets with a
flip lid into the floorboards.


I ordered Appleby dry lining boxes from Screwfix.


https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-47mm-dry-lining-box/83270


Why on earth would you use dry lining boxes into floorboards? Screws
through the side of a metal box would be simpler and neater.


For what it's worth we do not use them on new builds.

Noggins and metal back boxes every time.

--
Adam
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