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-   -   Aqualisa - FAO Andy Hall (https://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/6366-aqualisa-fao-andy-hall.html)

David W.E. Roberts February 23rd 04 11:12 AM

Aqualisa - FAO Andy Hall
 
Andy (and everyone else of course)

saw your post about replacing 'O' rings on an Aqualisa shower.

Just wondered what the symptoms were.

My (about 10 year old) Aqualisa shower is leaking cold water around the
thermostatic mixer control.

We have a shower pump so there is quite a bit of pressure.

I have seen on the NG that the cartridge needs replacing after a time but
this seems more like a 'seals' thing.

TIA
Dave R
--




Andy Hall February 23rd 04 11:57 AM

Aqualisa - FAO Andy Hall
 
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:12:46 -0000, "David W.E. Roberts"
wrote:

Andy (and everyone else of course)

saw your post about replacing 'O' rings on an Aqualisa shower.

Just wondered what the symptoms were.

My (about 10 year old) Aqualisa shower is leaking cold water around the
thermostatic mixer control.

We have a shower pump so there is quite a bit of pressure.

I have seen on the NG that the cartridge needs replacing after a time but
this seems more like a 'seals' thing.

TIA
Dave R


There are not very many user replaceable seals, David.

On my unit, which is a built in type, maybe a little less than ten
years old, but not much, there are the following, starting from the
front:

- O-ring on the shaft of the cartridge used to hold the on/off control
knob in place. They send these for free.

- With control knob removed and thermostatic lever (4 bolts) removed
you get to the cartridge which can be removed with 4 more bolts.
There is a seal of complex shape between that and the valve body.
This seal comes with the spare cartridge, although may be separately
available.

- O ring seal at the back which seals the centre stainless steel tube
of the cartridge to the back of the valve body. These also come with
a replacement cartridge, and silicone grease is useful to fit them.
If this one fails, it does not mean a leak since it is internal.


Apart from the places where the pipes connect, the only places that
leaks can happen are where the cartridge meets the body - new seal
needed, or around the spindle of the cartridge. The latter means a
new cartridge.





..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

PoP February 23rd 04 05:15 PM

Aqualisa - FAO Andy Hall
 
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:57:23 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

- O ring seal at the back which seals the centre stainless steel tube
of the cartridge to the back of the valve body. These also come with
a replacement cartridge, and silicone grease is useful to fit them.
If this one fails, it does not mean a leak since it is internal.


I was working on one of these last week - and that rubber seal is
embedded into the plastic surround, making it nigh on impossible to
remove to replace with a new one.

Has anyone come up with an inventive way of getting this seal out of
one of these shower units? Tried the crochet hook approach, no good.

PoP

-----

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Velvet February 23rd 04 06:42 PM

Aqualisa - FAO Andy Hall
 
PoP wrote:

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:57:23 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:


- O ring seal at the back which seals the centre stainless steel tube
of the cartridge to the back of the valve body. These also come with
a replacement cartridge, and silicone grease is useful to fit them.
If this one fails, it does not mean a leak since it is internal.



I was working on one of these last week - and that rubber seal is
embedded into the plastic surround, making it nigh on impossible to
remove to replace with a new one.

Has anyone come up with an inventive way of getting this seal out of
one of these shower units? Tried the crochet hook approach, no good.

PoP

-----

My published email address probably won't work. If
you need to contact me please submit your comments
via the web form at http://www.anyoldtripe.co.uk

I apologise for the additional effort, however the
level of unsolicited email I receive makes it
impossible to advertise my real email address!


I've used a strong sharp needle before to extract stuff like that. Ram
needle into rubber, then prise out (taking care not to break the needle,
they seem to shatter rather than bend sometimes).

Velvet


Andy Hall February 23rd 04 07:25 PM

Aqualisa - FAO Andy Hall
 
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 17:15:20 +0000, PoP wrote:

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:57:23 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

- O ring seal at the back which seals the centre stainless steel tube
of the cartridge to the back of the valve body. These also come with
a replacement cartridge, and silicone grease is useful to fit them.
If this one fails, it does not mean a leak since it is internal.


I was working on one of these last week - and that rubber seal is
embedded into the plastic surround, making it nigh on impossible to
remove to replace with a new one.

Has anyone come up with an inventive way of getting this seal out of
one of these shower units? Tried the crochet hook approach, no good.


No that doesn't work.

A darning needle is one approach - jab it into the rubber and hook
away from the groove. Typically it will split which is fine anyway.
A scalpel or craft knife with long blade is another way and you can
easily jab the Oring but take care with this way.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Ed Sirett February 24th 04 07:15 PM

Aqualisa - FAO Andy Hall
 
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:57:23 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:12:46 -0000, "David W.E. Roberts"
wrote:

Andy (and everyone else of course)

saw your post about replacing 'O' rings on an Aqualisa shower.

Just wondered what the symptoms were.

My (about 10 year old) Aqualisa shower is leaking cold water around the
thermostatic mixer control.

We have a shower pump so there is quite a bit of pressure.

I have seen on the NG that the cartridge needs replacing after a time but
this seems more like a 'seals' thing.

TIA
Dave R


There are not very many user replaceable seals, David.

On my unit, which is a built in type, maybe a little less than ten
years old, but not much, there are the following, starting from the
front:

- O-ring on the shaft of the cartridge used to hold the on/off control
knob in place. They send these for free.

- With control knob removed and thermostatic lever (4 bolts) removed
you get to the cartridge which can be removed with 4 more bolts.
There is a seal of complex shape between that and the valve body.
This seal comes with the spare cartridge, although may be separately
available.

- O ring seal at the back which seals the centre stainless steel tube
of the cartridge to the back of the valve body. These also come with
a replacement cartridge, and silicone grease is useful to fit them.
If this one fails, it does not mean a leak since it is internal.


Apart from the places where the pipes connect, the only places that
leaks can happen are where the cartridge meets the body - new seal
needed, or around the spindle of the cartridge. The latter means a
new cartridge.


You should be able to get a new cartridge for under 100 incl VAT.
The frequent problem with these is that the bimetal spiral corrodes and/or
furs up. Otherwise you generally get the better part of 109 years or more
from them.



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html



PoP February 24th 04 07:28 PM

Aqualisa - FAO Andy Hall
 
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 19:25:08 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

A darning needle is one approach - jab it into the rubber and hook
away from the groove. Typically it will split which is fine anyway.
A scalpel or craft knife with long blade is another way and you can
easily jab the Oring but take care with this way.


Thanks for that!

I replaced the cartridge (the customer had ordered the cartridge
anyway, and the O ring came with it). Didn't replace the O ring.

The problem we were trying to resolve was fixed without the O ring,
this being a shower that continued to drip long after the shower had
been turned off.

I guess I was surprised - I thought it might have been the 10p O ring
rather than the 100 quid cartridge.

PoP

-----

My published email address probably won't work. If
you need to contact me please submit your comments
via the web form at http://www.anyoldtripe.co.uk

I apologise for the additional effort, however the
level of unsolicited email I receive makes it
impossible to advertise my real email address!

Andy Hall February 24th 04 08:33 PM

Aqualisa - FAO Andy Hall
 
On Tue, 24 Feb 2004 19:28:49 +0000, PoP wrote:

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 19:25:08 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

A darning needle is one approach - jab it into the rubber and hook
away from the groove. Typically it will split which is fine anyway.
A scalpel or craft knife with long blade is another way and you can
easily jab the Oring but take care with this way.


Thanks for that!

I replaced the cartridge (the customer had ordered the cartridge
anyway, and the O ring came with it). Didn't replace the O ring.

The problem we were trying to resolve was fixed without the O ring,
this being a shower that continued to drip long after the shower had
been turned off.

I guess I was surprised - I thought it might have been the 10p O ring
rather than the 100 quid cartridge.

PoP


That's the other symptom I forgot to mention yesterday.....

I had one cartridge (the original) fail after about two years. The
current one has lasted over five.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

hop November 28th 04 11:09 PM

Just spend hours trying to remove an Aqualisa "o" ring.

Finally, after trying everything suggested above, I used a medium size nail (any nail with a biggish but thin head will do). I simply used the head of the nail to pull the ring out of its seat.

Hope this may be useful to someone else.

Ian.


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