I'm having problems removing a chuck from an old B&D reversible hammer
drill. I'm using what I think is the same procedure I used many years
ago but the chuck refuses to unscrew.

First I removed the locking screw from down in the depths of the chuck,
remembering that it's a left hand thread then I gripped the short leg of
a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the long leg a sharp
tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main right handed (I
think?) thread but it seems to be seized up and there's not enough
inertia in the motor to stop the shaft spinning round with the chuck.

I've squirted a dose of WD40 into the chuck and left the drill standing
chuck uppermost in the hope it will loosen the thread overnight. Is
there anything else worth trying if that doesn't work?

On 23/05/2019 17:24, Mike Clarke wrote:
I'm having problems removing a chuck from an old B&D reversible hammer
drill. I'm using what I think is the same procedure I used many years
ago but the chuck refuses to unscrew.

First I removed the locking screw from down in the depths of the chuck,
remembering that it's a left hand thread then I gripped the short leg of
a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the long leg a sharp
tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main right handed (I
think?) thread but it seems to be seized up and there's not enough
inertia in the motor to stop the shaft spinning round with the chuck.

I've squirted a dose of WD40 into the chuck and left the drill standing
chuck uppermost in the hope it will loosen the thread overnight. Is
there anything else worth trying if that doesn't work?


my old orange 2-speed B&D drill just has a left hand thread,
so, like you I clamp up a big allen key in the jaws with the short
end in the jaws, then just give the long end a swift wack
with a hammer and it unsticks the thread.

I think you are doing the right thing, it needs a hard jolt
to unstick it.

If you know anyone with an impact driver, like the ones that
garages use to remove wheel nuts and other stuff, that will
probably shift it.

On 23/05/2019 17:24, Mike Clarke wrote:
I'm having problems removing a chuck from an old B&D reversible hammer
drill. I'm using what I think is the same procedure I used many years
ago but the chuck refuses to unscrew.

First I removed the locking screw from down in the depths of the chuck,
remembering that it's a left hand thread then I gripped the short leg of
a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the long leg a sharp
tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main right handed (I
think?) thread but it seems to be seized up and there's not enough
inertia in the motor to stop the shaft spinning round with the chuck.

I've squirted a dose of WD40 into the chuck and left the drill standing
chuck uppermost in the hope it will loosen the thread overnight. Is
there anything else worth trying if that doesn't work?

If its a 2 speed version, stick it in low gear.

I sometimes find simply putting the chuck key in the chuck and then
giving the end of that a sharp tap with a hammer is quite effective.
(there is a bit less spring in it than the alan key approach).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/05/2019 17:49, John Rumm wrote:

If its a 2 speed version, stick it in low gear.

That's what I do with an even older one which is 2 speed but this one
has electronic speed control instead of a 2 speed gearbox.

John Rumm wrote:
On 23/05/2019 17:24, Mike Clarke wrote:
I'm having problems removing a chuck from an old B&D reversible hammer
drill. I'm using what I think is the same procedure I used many years
ago but the chuck refuses to unscrew.

First I removed the locking screw from down in the depths of the chuck,
remembering that it's a left hand thread then I gripped the short leg of
a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the long leg a sharp
tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main right handed (I
think?) thread but it seems to be seized up and there's not enough
inertia in the motor to stop the shaft spinning round with the chuck.

I've squirted a dose of WD40 into the chuck and left the drill standing
chuck uppermost in the hope it will loosen the thread overnight. Is
there anything else worth trying if that doesn't work?

If its a 2 speed version, stick it in low gear.

I sometimes find simply putting the chuck key in the chuck and then
giving the end of that a sharp tap with a hammer is quite effective.
(there is a bit less spring in it than the alan key approach).


+1. A chuck key is much stiffer than an Allen key and will transmit a much
higher €œshock€� to the threads of the chuck when you whack it.

Tim



--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 23/05/2019 17:49, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/05/2019 17:24, Mike Clarke wrote:
I'm having problems removing a chuck from an old B&D reversible hammer
drill. I'm using what I think is the same procedure I used many years
ago but the chuck refuses to unscrew.

First I removed the locking screw from down in the depths of the
chuck, remembering that it's a left hand thread then I gripped the
short leg of a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the
long leg a sharp tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main
right handed (I think?) thread but it seems to be seized up and
there's not enough inertia in the motor to stop the shaft spinning
round with the chuck.

I've squirted a dose of WD40 into the chuck and left the drill
standing chuck uppermost in the hope it will loosen the thread
overnight. Is there anything else worth trying if that doesn't work?

If its a 2 speed version, stick it in low gear.


+1, that's what I do.

I sometimes find simply putting the chuck key in the chuck and then
giving the end of that a sharp tap with a hammer is quite effective.
(there is a bit less spring in it than the alan key approach).



A big allen key has no 'spring' !!, and being hexagon shaped
the chuck grips it nicely.

On 23/05/2019 17:24, Mike Clarke wrote:
I'm having problems removing a chuck from an old B&D reversible hammer
drill. I'm using what I think is the same procedure I used many years
ago but the chuck refuses to unscrew.

First I removed the locking screw from down in the depths of the chuck,
remembering that it's a left hand thread then I gripped the short leg of
a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the long leg a sharp
tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main right handed (I
think?) thread but it seems to be seized up and there's not enough
inertia in the motor to stop the shaft spinning round with the chuck.

I've squirted a dose of WD40 into the chuck and left the drill standing
chuck uppermost in the hope it will loosen the thread overnight. Is
there anything else worth trying if that doesn't work?

Jam the motor with a screwdriver in the blades of the fan. Then bash the
chuck key.

Bill

"Bill Wright" wrote in message
...
On 23/05/2019 17:24, Mike Clarke wrote:
I'm having problems removing a chuck from an old B&D reversible hammer
drill. I'm using what I think is the same procedure I used many years ago
but the chuck refuses to unscrew.

First I removed the locking screw from down in the depths of the chuck,
remembering that it's a left hand thread then I gripped the short leg of
a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the long leg a sharp
tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main right handed (I
think?) thread but it seems to be seized up and there's not enough
inertia in the motor to stop the shaft spinning round with the chuck.

I've squirted a dose of WD40 into the chuck and left the drill standing
chuck uppermost in the hope it will loosen the thread overnight. Is there
anything else worth trying if that doesn't work?

Jam the motor with a screwdriver in the blades of the fan. Then bash the
chuck key.

Likely to **** the fan.

On 23/05/2019 17:40, Andrew wrote:
On 23/05/2019 17:24, Mike Clarke wrote:
I'm having problems removing a chuck from an old B&D reversible hammer
drill. I'm using what I think is the same procedure I used many years
ago but the chuck refuses to unscrew.

First I removed the locking screw from down in the depths of the
chuck, remembering that it's a left hand thread then I gripped the
short leg of a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the
long leg a sharp tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main
right handed (I think?) thread but it seems to be seized up and
there's not enough inertia in the motor to stop the shaft spinning
round with the chuck.

I've squirted a dose of WD40 into the chuck and left the drill
standing chuck uppermost in the hope it will loosen the thread
overnight. Is there anything else worth trying if that doesn't work?


my old orange 2-speed B&D drill just has a left hand thread,
so, like you I clamp up a big allen key in the jaws with the short
end in the jaws, then just give the long end a swift wack
with a hammer and it unsticks the thread.


I just put a key in the chuck and then hit the key will a hammer.

--
Michael Chare

On 24/05/2019 01:08, Rod Speed wrote:

Jam the motor with a screwdriver in the blades of the fan. Then bash
the chuck key.

Likely to **** the fan.

Oh shut up. You have to do it with finesse.

Bill

Bill Wright wrote
Rod Speed wrote

Jam the motor with a screwdriver in the
blades of the fan. Then bash the chuck key.

Likely to **** the fan.

Oh shut up. You have to do it with finesse.

Not even possible when whacking the ****ing chuck key, ****wit.

On Fri, 24 May 2019 10:08:03 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Jam the motor with a screwdriver in the blades of the fan. Then bash the
chuck key.

Likely to **** the fan.

It could ever be as ****ed as you are, you obnoxious, 85-year-old, trolling
senile pest!

--
"Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed:
"You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad
little ignorant ****."
MID:

On Fri, 24 May 2019 12:36:11 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Oh shut up. You have to do it with finesse.

Not even possible when whacking the ****ing chuck key, ****wit.

It's easier to do than make you senile trolling wacko shut your senile gob!

--
Sqwertz to Rot Speed:
"This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative
asshole.
MID:

On 23/05/2019 19:40, Andrew wrote:
On 23/05/2019 17:49, John Rumm wrote:

[snip]

I sometimes find simply putting the chuck key in the chuck and then
giving the end of that a sharp tap with a hammer is quite effective.
(there is a bit less spring in it than the alan key approach).



A big allen key has no 'spring' !!, and being hexagon shaped
the chuck grips it nicely.

This is a keyless chuck so I don't have the option of sticking a chuck
key in a hole in the side of the chuck so I'm gripping a big chunky 8mm
allen key in the jaws.

Still no joy after leaving some WD40 to soak down to the threads of the
chuck overnight. The problem is that after years of use the chuck has
become too firmly stuck to the threads on the drill spindle and the
motor doesn't have enough inertia to resist the impacts from whacking
the allen key.

I've even tried fixing the long leg of the allen key in a vice and
starting up the drill in reverse to try to unscrew it. The drill has
variable torque control so I cautiously started off at the lowest
setting and progressively increased up to maximum but still no joy.

The plastic fan looks far too flimsy to try jamming a screwdriver
between the blades before trying to whack the allen key.

It's starting to look like the chuck is going to be a permanent fixture,
It's not a major problem because it's still functional but it only goes
up to 10mm and I'd thought of re-fitting the original 13mm keyed chuck
because I might be needing to use it to drill some 12mm holes.

On 23/05/2019 19:40, Andrew wrote:
On 23/05/2019 17:49, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/05/2019 17:24, Mike Clarke wrote:
I'm having problems removing a chuck from an old B&D reversible
hammer drill. I'm using what I think is the same procedure I used
many years ago but the chuck refuses to unscrew.

First I removed the locking screw from down in the depths of the
chuck, remembering that it's a left hand thread then I gripped the
short leg of a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the
long leg a sharp tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main
right handed (I think?) thread but it seems to be seized up and
there's not enough inertia in the motor to stop the shaft spinning
round with the chuck.

I've squirted a dose of WD40 into the chuck and left the drill
standing chuck uppermost in the hope it will loosen the thread
overnight. Is there anything else worth trying if that doesn't work?

If its a 2 speed version, stick it in low gear.


+1, that's what I do.

I sometimes find simply putting the chuck key in the chuck and then
giving the end of that a sharp tap with a hammer is quite effective.
(there is a bit less spring in it than the alan key approach).



A big allen key has no 'spring' !!, and being hexagon shaped
the chuck grips it nicely.

Yes but you are transmitting the impact through the jaws which are not
such a close fit to the body. I'd always go for the chuck key method.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 24/05/2019 12:15, newshound wrote:

Yes but you are transmitting the impact through the jaws which are not
such a close fit to the body. I'd always go for the chuck key method.

Unfortunately not an option with this keyless chuck.

On 24/05/2019 11:53, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 23/05/2019 19:40, Andrew wrote:
On 23/05/2019 17:49, John Rumm wrote:

[snip]

I sometimes find simply putting the chuck key in the chuck and then
giving the end of that a sharp tap with a hammer is quite effective.
(there is a bit less spring in it than the alan key approach).



A big allen key has no 'spring' !!, and being hexagon shaped
the chuck grips it nicely.

This is a keyless chuck so I don't have the option of sticking a chuck
key in a hole in the side of the chuck so I'm gripping a big chunky 8mm
allen key in the jaws.

Still no joy after leaving some WD40 to soak down to the threads of the
chuck overnight. The problem is that after years of use the chuck has
become too firmly stuck to the threads on the drill spindle and the
motor doesn't have enough inertia to resist the impacts from whacking
the allen key.

I've even tried fixing the long leg of the allen key in a vice and
starting up the drill in reverse to try to unscrew it. The drill has
variable torque control so I cautiously started off at the lowest
setting and progressively increased up to maximum but still no joy.

The plastic fan looks far too flimsy to try jamming a screwdriver
between the blades before trying to whack the allen key.

It's starting to look like the chuck is going to be a permanent fixture,
It's not a major problem because it's still functional but it only goes
up to 10mm and I'd thought of re-fitting the original 13mm keyed chuck
because I might be needing to use it to drill some 12mm holes.

An air impact device, as used by garages for removing and tightening
all manner of nuts and bolts would definately shift it. They
work in both directions.

You are trying to turn it the correct way, aren't you ???

In article ,
says...


... then I gripped the short leg of
a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the long leg a sharp
tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main right handed (I
think?) thread ...

Left handed, surely, as everybody else has said.


--

Terry

---
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https://www.avg.com

On 24/05/2019 12:59, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 24/05/2019 12:15, newshound wrote:

Yes but you are transmitting the impact through the jaws which are not
such a close fit to the body. I'd always go for the chuck key method.

Unfortunately not an option with this keyless chuck.

Sorry, I missed that. I've occasionally tried to remove keyless chucks
from otherwise scrap drills with limited success.

---
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"Mike Clarke" wrote in message
...


I've even tried fixing the long leg of the allen key in a vice and
starting up the drill in reverse to try to unscrew it.


you have removed the locking screw from inside the chuck?

-

On 24/05/2019 16:07, Terry Casey wrote:
In article ,
says...


... then I gripped the short leg of
a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the long leg a sharp
tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main right handed (I
think?) thread ...

Left handed, surely, as everybody else has said.

No, the locking screw is left handed but the thread on the chuck is
right handed.

I can confirm that because after leaving things after this mornings
failed attempt the WD40 seems to have worked its magic over the last few
hours and the chuck finally spun loose after a bit more enthusiastic
applications of the hammer this afternoon.

On Friday, 24 May 2019 18:19:23 UTC+1, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 24/05/2019 16:07, Terry Casey wrote:
In article ,
says...


... then I gripped the short leg of
a large allen key in the jaws of the chuck and gave the long leg a sharp
tap with a hammer in an attempt to loosen the main right handed (I
think?) thread ...

Left handed, surely, as everybody else has said.

No, the locking screw is left handed but the thread on the chuck is
right handed.

I can confirm that because after leaving things after this mornings
failed attempt the WD40 seems to have worked its magic over the last few
hours and the chuck finally spun loose after a bit more enthusiastic
applications of the hammer this afternoon.

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective attempt at a penetrating oil.


NT

On 24/05/2019 19:45, wrote:

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective attempt at a penetrating oil.

You astound me. I've never seen or heard of a comparative test of
different penetrating oils. I'm not doubting you, by the way.

On 24/05/2019 19:59, GB wrote:
On 24/05/2019 19:45, wrote:

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective attempt
at a penetrating oil.

You astound me. I've never seen or heard of a comparative test of
different penetrating oils. I'm not doubting you, by the way.

Tabs is well known as a WD40 denier.

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On 24/05/2019 21:03, newshound wrote:
On 24/05/2019 19:59, GB wrote:
On 24/05/2019 19:45, wrote:

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective
attempt at a penetrating oil.

You astound me. I've never seen or heard of a comparative test of
different penetrating oils. I'm not doubting you, by the way.

Tabs is well known as a WD40 denier.


Perhaps he was brought up on a spoonful of castor oil every night and
can't believe there's any better loosener


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 24/05/2019 11:53, Mike Clarke wrote:

It's starting to look like the chuck is going to be a permanent fixture,
It's not a major problem because it's still functional but it only goes
up to 10mm and I'd thought of re-fitting the original 13mm keyed chuck
because I might be needing to use it to drill some 12mm holes.

Try tapping it quite hard for a very long time. Not bashing it; just
taps. This has surprised me when it's worked but it has. It seems to
work if you do it for ages.

Bill

On Fri, 24 May 2019 11:53:48 +0100
Mike Clarke wrote:

The plastic fan looks far too flimsy to try jamming a screwdriver
between the blades before trying to whack the allen key.

Split the case and pull the motor apart so you can put a strap around
the rotor to stop it turning.

On Friday, 24 May 2019 19:59:26 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 24/05/2019 19:45, tabbypurr wrote:

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective attempt at a penetrating oil.

You astound me. I've never seen or heard of a comparative test of
different penetrating oils. I'm not doubting you, by the way.

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has put WD40 anywhere other than in last place. In short, it isn't one.


NT

wrote:

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has
put WD40 anywhere other than in last place.
WD40 doesn't come last in this chap's first batch of tests, but it does
in the second batch.

https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs
https://youtu.be/st8dkGzJWtg

On Saturday, 25 May 2019 08:33:35 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has
put WD40 anywhere other than in last place.
WD40 doesn't come last in this chap's first batch of tests, but it does
in the second batch.

https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs
https://youtu.be/st8dkGzJWtg

Project Farm does lots of product comparison testing, some quite useful. Some seem to be brands that don't sell here though.


NT

On 25/05/2019 08:33, Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has
put WD40 anywhere other than in last place.
WD40 doesn't come last in this chap's first batch of tests, but it does
in the second batch.

https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs
https://youtu.be/st8dkGzJWtg

Those tests were for seriously rusted threads where I'd not expect WD40
to be as effective as some of the more specialised products.

In this case I didn't expect rust to be a problem, more a case of the
chuck being seriously tightened up on the threads after years of use so
I was hoping to get some fluid down the threads to reduce the friction
and WD40 is certainly effective at creeping into small gaps and
softening any built up muck.

On Saturday, 25 May 2019 10:05:27 UTC+1, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 25/05/2019 08:33, Andy Burns wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has
put WD40 anywhere other than in last place.
WD40 doesn't come last in this chap's first batch of tests, but it does
in the second batch.

https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs
https://youtu.be/st8dkGzJWtg

Those tests were for seriously rusted threads where I'd not expect WD40
to be as effective as some of the more specialised products.

it isn't as effective as any other product. Look at the car guys, they all rate WD40 as the worst & mostly not successful.

In this case I didn't expect rust to be a problem, more a case of the
chuck being seriously tightened up on the threads after years of use so
I was hoping to get some fluid down the threads to reduce the friction
and WD40 is certainly effective at creeping into small gaps and
softening any built up muck.

It has some effectiveness. Just less than anything else. I don't know why anyone buys it. If you want it for some reason, white spirit & baby oil are a fraction the price and as good as identical. If you want a penetrating oil there are several available, or you could use ATF which is even better.


NT

On 25/05/2019 08:15, wrote:
On Friday, 24 May 2019 19:59:26 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 24/05/2019 19:45, tabbypurr wrote:

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective attempt at a penetrating oil.

You astound me. I've never seen or heard of a comparative test of
different penetrating oils. I'm not doubting you, by the way.

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has put WD40 anywhere other than in last place. In short, it isn't one.


I think you miss the point, that its a better penetrating oil that none
at all...

and that is all that matters. Its a product that most people will have
easy access to. The fact that there are dedicated penetrants out that
which perform better will be of little interest to the majority of non
specialist users.


--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

On 25/05/2019 11:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 25/05/2019 08:15, wrote:
On Friday, 24 May 2019 19:59:26 UTC+1, GBÂ* wrote:
On 24/05/2019 19:45, tabbypurr wrote:

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective
attempt at a penetrating oil.

You astound me. I've never seen or heard of a comparative test of
different penetrating oils. I'm not doubting you, by the way.

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has
put WD40 anywhere other than in last place. In short, it isn't one.


Water Dispersant.


I think you miss the point, that its a better penetrating oil that none
at all...

and that is all that matters. Its a product that most people will have
easy access to. The fact that there are dedicated penetrants out that
which perform better will be of little interest to the majority of non
specialist users.


How many people need a water dispersant anyway?




--
Of what good are dead warriors? €¦ Warriors are those who desire battle
more than peace. Those who seek battle despite peace. Those who thump
their spears on the ground and talk of honor. Those who leap high the
battle dance and dream of glory €¦ The good of dead warriors, Mother, is
that they are dead.
Sheri S Tepper: The Awakeners.

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 25/05/2019 11:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 25/05/2019 08:15, wrote:
On Friday, 24 May 2019 19:59:26 UTC+1, GB* wrote:
On 24/05/2019 19:45, tabbypurr wrote:

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective
attempt at a penetrating oil.

You astound me. I've never seen or heard of a comparative test of
different penetrating oils. I'm not doubting you, by the way.

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has
put WD40 anywhere other than in last place. In short, it isn't one.


Water Dispersant.

I think you miss the point, that its a better penetrating oil that
none at all...
and that is all that matters. Its a product that most people will
have easy access to. The fact that there are dedicated penetrants out
that which perform better will be of little interest to the majority
of non specialist users.


How many people need a water dispersant anyway?

Anyone with large lumps of machinery in unheated workshop space.

It may not ease/lubricate but it is effective as a rust preventative on
bare metal.
--
Tim Lamb

On 25/05/2019 11:24, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Water Dispersant.

Also effective at dispersing dried up muck from inaccessible crevices,

On 25/05/2019 11:24, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 25/05/2019 11:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 25/05/2019 08:15, wrote:
On Friday, 24 May 2019 19:59:26 UTC+1, GBÂ* wrote:
On 24/05/2019 19:45, tabbypurr wrote:

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective
attempt at a penetrating oil.

You astound me. I've never seen or heard of a comparative test of
different penetrating oils. I'm not doubting you, by the way.

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has
put WD40 anywhere other than in last place. In short, it isn't one.


Water Dispersant.

One of its abilities and where the original product got its name...

In reality a light machine oil mixed in a volatile low viscosity
carrier. You could give it any number of other names, but the fact that
its something obscure and non obvious is probably quite good from a
marketing point of view - stops it being "typecast".

You are of course aware that they now use the same name on a number of
different products, including a white lithium grease, a silicone grease,
a penetrant, and dry lubricant?

I think you miss the point, that its a better penetrating oil that
none at all...

and that is all that matters. Its a product that most people will have
easy access to. The fact that there are dedicated penetrants out that
which perform better will be of little interest to the majority of non
specialist users.


How many people need a water dispersant anyway?

How many folks have metal stuff they want to protect from rusting?



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Saturday, 25 May 2019 11:23:01 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 25/05/2019 08:15, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 24 May 2019 19:59:26 UTC+1, GB wrote:
On 24/05/2019 19:45, tabbypurr wrote:

For the future, WD40 consistently tests as the least effective attempt at a penetrating oil.

You astound me. I've never seen or heard of a comparative test of
different penetrating oils. I'm not doubting you, by the way.

I've not seen a single youtube testing of penetrating oils that has put WD40 anywhere other than in last place. In short, it isn't one.


I think you miss the point, that its a better penetrating oil that none
at all...

and that is all that matters. Its a product that most people will have
easy access to. The fact that there are dedicated penetrants out that
which perform better will be of little interest to the majority of non
specialist users.

With respect pretty much everyone has access to oil of some sort. Almost any sort works better than that stuff. As a penetrating oil it does sometimes work, but mostly not.


NT

On Saturday, 25 May 2019 12:04:26 UTC+1, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 25/05/2019 11:24, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Water Dispersant.

Also effective at dispersing dried up muck from inaccessible crevices,

Sure. So is white spirit at a fraction the price.


NT

On Saturday, 25 May 2019 12:29:10 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

How many people need a water dispersant anyway?

How many folks have metal stuff they want to protect from rusting?

Anyone with a shed. Of course any type of oil beats WD40 at that job too.


NT