UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,396
Default Plinth

Planning a bathroom conversion - need a 1600 x 700mm shower tray. I need it
raised about 5 inches off a T & G floor. Would rather have a plinth than
legs.
Any recommendation on materials for spacers and for a top surface. I
realise "wood" is a simple answer - but just concerned about long term
shrinkage and distortion. Any particular types I should aim for?
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,019
Default Plinth

On 13/05/2019 10:43, DerbyBorn wrote:
Planning a bathroom conversion - need a 1600 x 700mm shower tray. I need it
raised about 5 inches off a T & G floor. Would rather have a plinth than
legs.
Any recommendation on materials for spacers and for a top surface. I
realise "wood" is a simple answer - but just concerned about long term
shrinkage and distortion. Any particular types I should aim for?

Mine sits on offcuts of flooring joists from an old job, so treated
timber. Having seen how quickly a tiny leak in a sealed space under a
bath resulted in dry rot. For the surface I would use 18 mm shuttering
ply. Think seriously about access to the trap and/or something like a
rodding eye for extracting the stuff that will certainly thrive in the
drain pipe.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

  #3   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default Plinth

On 13/05/2019 10:43, DerbyBorn wrote:
Planning a bathroom conversion - need a 1600 x 700mm shower tray. I need it
raised about 5 inches off a T & G floor. Would rather have a plinth than
legs.
Any recommendation on materials for spacers and for a top surface. I
realise "wood" is a simple answer - but just concerned about long term
shrinkage and distortion. Any particular types I should aim for?

bed it on sand and cement and tile the edges


--
If you tell a lie big enough and keep repeating it, people will
eventually come to believe it. The lie can be maintained only for such
time as the State can shield the people from the political, economic
and/or military consequences of the lie. It thus becomes vitally
important for the State to use all of its powers to repress dissent, for
the truth is the mortal enemy of the lie, and thus by extension, the
truth is the greatest enemy of the State.

Joseph Goebbels



  #4   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,080
Default Plinth

On 13/05/2019 11:28, newshound wrote:
On 13/05/2019 10:43, DerbyBorn wrote:
Planning a bathroom conversion - need a 1600 x 700mm shower tray. I
need it
raised about 5 inches off a T & G floor. Would rather have a plinth than
legs.
Any recommendation on materials for spacers and for a top surface. I
realise "wood" is a simple answer - but just concerned about long term
shrinkage and distortion. Any particular types I should aim for?

Mine sits on offcuts of flooring joists from an old job, so treated
timber. Having seen how quickly a tiny leak in a sealed space under a
bath resulted in dry rot. For the surface I would use 18 mm shuttering
ply. Think seriously about access to the trap and/or something like a
rodding eye for extracting the stuff that will certainly thrive in the
drain pipe.


Many shower wastes have parts that can be pulled out from the top for
cleaning, leaving the pipe opening exposed for cleaning out. Access from
below is only required when fitting, sorting a leak or replacing - which
I hope won't be necessary, but would simply mean that I cut a hole in
the ceiling directly below and then fitted one of the small, plastic,
access hatches or made good and repapered that ceiling.

SteveW
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,998
Default Plinth

I've never quite understood why the excellent idea I saw in a hotel many
years ago is not done. The whole thing was hinged and had easy to detach
hose connections, so cleaning the trap and all that was easy. around the
edge was some stuff like that you get around double glazed windows and doors
if it perishes you shove in a new lot.

Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"newshound" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 13/05/2019 10:43, DerbyBorn wrote:
Planning a bathroom conversion - need a 1600 x 700mm shower tray. I need
it
raised about 5 inches off a T & G floor. Would rather have a plinth than
legs.
Any recommendation on materials for spacers and for a top surface. I
realise "wood" is a simple answer - but just concerned about long term
shrinkage and distortion. Any particular types I should aim for?

Mine sits on offcuts of flooring joists from an old job, so treated
timber. Having seen how quickly a tiny leak in a sealed space under a bath
resulted in dry rot. For the surface I would use 18 mm shuttering ply.
Think seriously about access to the trap and/or something like a rodding
eye for extracting the stuff that will certainly thrive in the drain pipe.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus





  #6   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,396
Default Plinth

newshound wrote in
o.uk:

On 13/05/2019 10:43, DerbyBorn wrote:
Planning a bathroom conversion - need a 1600 x 700mm shower tray. I
need it raised about 5 inches off a T & G floor. Would rather have a
plinth than legs.
Any recommendation on materials for spacers and for a top surface. I
realise "wood" is a simple answer - but just concerned about long
term shrinkage and distortion. Any particular types I should aim for?

Mine sits on offcuts of flooring joists from an old job, so treated
timber. Having seen how quickly a tiny leak in a sealed space under a
bath resulted in dry rot. For the surface I would use 18 mm shuttering
ply. Think seriously about access to the trap and/or something like a
rodding eye for extracting the stuff that will certainly thrive in the
drain pipe.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


In over 33 years in the house I have never cleaned the bath trap. Using
gels and liquid soaps means no scum (and the tiles stay shiny)
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,396
Default Plinth



Mine sits on offcuts of flooring joists from an old job, so treated
timber.


Do you think short off-cuts are better than full length? Less likely to
warp?
  #8   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default Plinth

On 13/05/2019 10:43, DerbyBorn wrote:
Planning a bathroom conversion - need a 1600 x 700mm shower tray. I need it
raised about 5 inches off a T & G floor. Would rather have a plinth than
legs.
Any recommendation on materials for spacers and for a top surface. I
realise "wood" is a simple answer - but just concerned about long term
shrinkage and distortion. Any particular types I should aim for?


If the wood is properly seasoned prior to installation, then it ought
not shrink any further. I would use pressure treated 4x2 for the basic
framework, with a top layer of 19mm WPB ply, and then if its a stone
resin tray, bed that onto a half inch screed of sand and cement -
probably with a bit of SBR in there as an admixture.

When installing the tray, butter the wall facing sides with silicone,
and rule off the bead cleanly at the top edge of the tray. Then tiling /
boarding - bring those down toward the tray, but leave a 1/4" gap, to
later fill with silicone. Having a wide enough bead ensures it will get
good adhesion, and also will tolerate any small amount of movement.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #9   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,341
Default Plinth

On Mon, 13 May 2019 11:28:32 +0100, newshound wrote:

On 13/05/2019 10:43, DerbyBorn wrote:
Planning a bathroom conversion - need a 1600 x 700mm shower tray. I need it
raised about 5 inches off a T & G floor. Would rather have a plinth than
legs.
Any recommendation on materials for spacers and for a top surface. I
realise "wood" is a simple answer - but just concerned about long term
shrinkage and distortion. Any particular types I should aim for?

Mine sits on offcuts of flooring joists from an old job, so treated
timber. Having seen how quickly a tiny leak in a sealed space under a
bath resulted in dry rot. For the surface I would use 18 mm shuttering
ply. Think seriously about access to the trap and/or something like a
rodding eye for extracting the stuff that will certainly thrive in the
drain pipe.

I'm changing to no trap inside and a waterless trap outside (having tested
it at low temperature to make sure that it doesn't freeze shut). I'll use
black pipe, to resist UV, with about a foot of black downpipe to cover the
trap.


--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,396
Default Plinth



If the wood is properly seasoned prior to installation, then it ought
not shrink any further. I would use pressure treated 4x2 for the basic
framework, with a top layer of 19mm WPB ply, and then if its a stone
resin tray, bed that onto a half inch screed of sand and cement -
probably with a bit of SBR in there as an admixture.

When installing the tray, butter the wall facing sides with silicone,
and rule off the bead cleanly at the top edge of the tray. Then tiling
/ boarding - bring those down toward the tray, but leave a 1/4" gap,
to later fill with silicone. Having a wide enough bead ensures it will
get good adhesion, and also will tolerate any small amount of
movement.



Sounds good - thanks


I was thinking of getting a 1700mm tray and that would need chopping into
the wall as is the bath it is replacing, The space is about 1680mm. I am
now thinking this is additional work for no real benefit and am now
thinking of a 1600mm tray. This will leave a small gap to be dealt with.

Do you think it is a better way? Any thoughts on the "gap"


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default Plinth

On 13/05/2019 17:44, DerbyBorn wrote:

If the wood is properly seasoned prior to installation, then it ought
not shrink any further. I would use pressure treated 4x2 for the basic
framework, with a top layer of 19mm WPB ply, and then if its a stone
resin tray, bed that onto a half inch screed of sand and cement -
probably with a bit of SBR in there as an admixture.

When installing the tray, butter the wall facing sides with silicone,
and rule off the bead cleanly at the top edge of the tray. Then tiling
/ boarding - bring those down toward the tray, but leave a 1/4" gap,
to later fill with silicone. Having a wide enough bead ensures it will
get good adhesion, and also will tolerate any small amount of
movement.



Sounds good - thanks


I was thinking of getting a 1700mm tray and that would need chopping into
the wall as is the bath it is replacing, The space is about 1680mm. I am
now thinking this is additional work for no real benefit and am now
thinking of a 1600mm tray. This will leave a small gap to be dealt with.


Chopping a bath into the wall can be worthwhile - its a way of making a
lighter weight acrylic bath far more rigid. For a shower tray there is
no real advantage unless you need to do it to squeeze in a slightly
oversized tray.

Do you think it is a better way? Any thoughts on the "gap"


It sounds like you will end up with 80mm of gap. The tiles (depending on
type) could take up say 30mm, which leaves at least a couple of inches.
So perhaps some 1" deep battens on the end walls, and a sheet of
aquapanel or hardibacker fixed to them to bring the walls out to the
right spacing?

(that might amount to more work that chopping the tray in 10m on each end!)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,364
Default Plinth

On Monday, 13 May 2019 17:43:34 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:

I'm changing to no trap inside and a waterless trap outside (having tested
it at low temperature to make sure that it doesn't freeze shut). I'll use
black pipe, to resist UV, with about a foot of black downpipe to cover the
trap.


That'll stink, you need the trap right at the tray.


NT
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,396
Default Plinth

John Rumm wrote in
o.uk:

On 13/05/2019 17:44, DerbyBorn wrote:

If the wood is properly seasoned prior to installation, then it
ought not shrink any further. I would use pressure treated 4x2 for
the basic framework, with a top layer of 19mm WPB ply, and then if
its a stone resin tray, bed that onto a half inch screed of sand and
cement - probably with a bit of SBR in there as an admixture.

When installing the tray, butter the wall facing sides with
silicone, and rule off the bead cleanly at the top edge of the tray.
Then tiling / boarding - bring those down toward the tray, but leave
a 1/4" gap, to later fill with silicone. Having a wide enough bead
ensures it will get good adhesion, and also will tolerate any small
amount of movement.



Sounds good - thanks


I was thinking of getting a 1700mm tray and that would need chopping
into the wall as is the bath it is replacing, The space is about
1680mm. I am now thinking this is additional work for no real benefit
and am now thinking of a 1600mm tray. This will leave a small gap to
be dealt with.


Chopping a bath into the wall can be worthwhile - its a way of making
a lighter weight acrylic bath far more rigid. For a shower tray there
is no real advantage unless you need to do it to squeeze in a
slightly oversized tray.

Do you think it is a better way? Any thoughts on the "gap"


It sounds like you will end up with 80mm of gap. The tiles (depending
on type) could take up say 30mm, which leaves at least a couple of
inches. So perhaps some 1" deep battens on the end walls, and a sheet
of aquapanel or hardibacker fixed to them to bring the walls out to
the right spacing?

(that might amount to more work that chopping the tray in 10m on each
end!)


Long term leakage risks?

Handling a heavy tray into the chopped out walls - difficulty in
replacing it if ever needed?


  #14   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default Plinth

On 13/05/2019 23:29, DerbyBorn wrote:
John Rumm wrote in
o.uk:

On 13/05/2019 17:44, DerbyBorn wrote:

If the wood is properly seasoned prior to installation, then it
ought not shrink any further. I would use pressure treated 4x2 for
the basic framework, with a top layer of 19mm WPB ply, and then if
its a stone resin tray, bed that onto a half inch screed of sand and
cement - probably with a bit of SBR in there as an admixture.

When installing the tray, butter the wall facing sides with
silicone, and rule off the bead cleanly at the top edge of the tray.
Then tiling / boarding - bring those down toward the tray, but leave
a 1/4" gap, to later fill with silicone. Having a wide enough bead
ensures it will get good adhesion, and also will tolerate any small
amount of movement.



Sounds good - thanks


I was thinking of getting a 1700mm tray and that would need chopping
into the wall as is the bath it is replacing, The space is about
1680mm. I am now thinking this is additional work for no real benefit
and am now thinking of a 1600mm tray. This will leave a small gap to
be dealt with.


Chopping a bath into the wall can be worthwhile - its a way of making
a lighter weight acrylic bath far more rigid. For a shower tray there
is no real advantage unless you need to do it to squeeze in a
slightly oversized tray.

Do you think it is a better way? Any thoughts on the "gap"


It sounds like you will end up with 80mm of gap. The tiles (depending
on type) could take up say 30mm, which leaves at least a couple of
inches. So perhaps some 1" deep battens on the end walls, and a sheet
of aquapanel or hardibacker fixed to them to bring the walls out to
the right spacing?

(that might amount to more work that chopping the tray in 10m on each
end!)


Long term leakage risks?


No different, I would expect.

Handling a heavy tray into the chopped out walls


Slightly more awkward to handle, but still doable IMHO. Use much the
same technique:

Chop out a bit higher than needed for the height of the tray. plus a
little more at the front.

Mix your screed and lay it on the ply. get it roughly level. Lay a
couple of lengths of 15mm plastic pipe in the screed running front to
back - they want to be the depth of the tray and another 4 to 6 inches
long. With help (for that sized tray), offer the back of the tray on the
edge of the platform - the pipes will take the weight and keep it clear
of the screed. Now lower the front and slide it back into position - it
slides easily on the pipe. Finally pull out the pipe to drop it on the
screed, slap a level on it and tap it home with a rubber hammer etc.

difficulty in replacing it if ever needed?


A bit more of a pain - since once the tray is in place you will need to
make good the plaster etc down to the top of the tray, and that will
lock it in place. However there is no real need to get it out in one
piece, and with stone resin trays its easy enough to break the edges off
with a quick clomp from a hammer. So the centre bit of tray can come
out, and then you can pull the edges free.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
MDF bath panel and plinth Jo King UK diy 4 June 21st 05 08:26 PM
Kitchen Plinth Drawers Steve C UK diy 6 November 6th 04 02:56 PM
Quick Q on kitchen plinth/floor covering fitting. sheeprug UK diy 4 January 13th 04 09:56 PM
Why is the kitchen plinth always recessed? Rich UK diy 6 August 12th 03 09:23 AM
Kitchen plinth which way up? David UK diy 1 July 3rd 03 05:58 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:42 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"