I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the same
way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust, paint
with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body filler,
sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
....or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust eaters?

On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the same
way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust, paint
with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body filler,
sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double glazed
glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to replace my Crital
frames and wood surrounds. The frames are 7cm thick and have to be
glazed from the inside.


--
Michael Chare

On 09/05/2019 23:32, Michael Chare wrote:

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double glazed
glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to replace my Crital
frames and wood surrounds.Â* The frames are 7cm thick and have to be
glazed from the inside.



Are not all double glazed windows glazed from the inside? Otherwise the
glazing bars can easily prized out and the DG unit removed by your local
burglar.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

alan_m wrote:

Are not all double glazed windows glazed from the inside?

Most are now.

Otherwise the glazing bars can easily prized out and the DG unit
removed by your local burglar.
That's why they generally stopped external glazing bars.

Well, my older windows are glazed from the outside but getting the trim off
and actually removing the glazing is not easy without a special tool, and
I've had no issues, but modern plastic ones are all glazed from inside I
notice.

Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"alan_m" wrote in message
...
On 09/05/2019 23:32, Michael Chare wrote:

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double glazed
glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to replace my Crital
frames and wood surrounds. The frames are 7cm thick and have to be glazed
from the inside.



Are not all double glazed windows glazed from the inside? Otherwise the
glazing bars can easily prized out and the DG unit removed by your local
burglar.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Andy Burns Wrote in message:

alan_m wrote:

Are not all double glazed windows glazed from the inside?

Most are now.

Otherwise the glazing bars can easily prized out and the DG unit
removed by your local burglar.
That's why they generally stopped external glazing bars.


Beads. :-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 10/05/2019 07:13, Andy Burns wrote:

alan_m wrote:

Are not all double glazed windows glazed from the inside?

Most are now.

Otherwise the glazing bars can easily prized out and the DG unit
removed by your local burglar.
That's why they generally stopped external glazing bars.

For a while they fitted the external ones with an adhesive security tape
behind them. Presumably that made them harder to remove, but not
impossible - on the usual principle of "they'll go somewhere else if its
a bit more difficult/noiser than average, etc."

SteveW

On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:

...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion...st-treatments/

On 10/05/2019 08:23, Chris Bartram wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:

...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion...st-treatments/

Thanks. They're new to me and look very interesting.

On 09/05/2019 23:32, Michael Chare wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust,
paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body
filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double glazed
glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to replace my Crital
frames and wood surrounds.Â* The frames are 7cm thick and have to be
glazed from the inside.


Unfortunately plastic does not look the same, nor does stick-on leading
look the same as real leading. Also, it would be ruinously expensive to
replace the large number of casements in this house.

On 10/05/2019 07:25, Brian Gaff wrote:
Well, my older windows are glazed from the outside but getting the trim off
and actually removing the glazing is not easy without a special tool, and
I've had no issues, but modern plastic ones are all glazed from inside I
notice.

Not all.....

A school caretaker of my acquaintance became exceedingly grateful one
night that the school office windows had been glazed the "wrong" way
round when he accidentally locked himself out and couldn't even leave
the electronically secured playground without the stuff he'd left inside.

Nick

On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the same
way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust, paint
with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body filler,
sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?
I thought they lasted for ever...they did on my ma's house......

--
Report a bad lying Freemason to Mr Baker of UGLE Audi Vide Tace

On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the same
way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust, paint
with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body filler,
sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

Don't know if it applies to yours (the level of rust may suggest not)
but many I see are galvanised steel - hence finding an appropriate
primer that will bond properly is harder.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Thursday, 9 May 2019 18:06:57 UTC+1, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the same
way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust, paint
with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body filler,
sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust eaters?

According to tests on youtube, vinegar is the most effective rust remover.


NT

On 10/05/2019 09:39, wrote:
On 09/05/2019 23:32, Michael Chare wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the
rust, paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester
body filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double glazed
glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to replace my Crital
frames and wood surrounds.Â* The frames are 7cm thick and have to be
glazed from the inside.


Unfortunately plastic does not look the same, nor does stick-on leading
look the same as real leading. Also, it would be ruinously expensive to
replace the large number of casements in this house.

Though not as ruinously expensive as replacing with new Crittall
windows, though the new ones will at least be double glazed with
thermal breaks and will still have fairly slim profiles.

On 10/05/2019 10:16, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust,
paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body
filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?
I thought they lasted for ever...they did on my ma's house......


They are galvanised and do last a long time but if they have
been badly painted by a cack-handed person who has damaged the
zinc coating, then rust soon gets in.

On 10/05/2019 04:43, alan_m wrote:
On 09/05/2019 23:32, Michael Chare wrote:

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double glazed
glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to replace my Crital
frames and wood surrounds.Â* The frames are 7cm thick and have to be
glazed from the inside.



Are not all double glazed windows glazed from the inside? Otherwise the
glazing bars can easily prized out and the DG unit removed by your local
burglar.


No.

Mine are glazed from the outside, but you have to remove the inner
rubber bead which allows the panel to move inwards 1/8" inch which then
allows the outside trim to be removed. It's quite clever.

--
Email does not work

Wrote in message:
On Thursday, 9 May 2019 18:06:57 UTC+1, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the same
way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust, paint
with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body filler,
sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust eaters?

According to tests on youtube, vinegar is the most effective rust remover.


NT


special strokes?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Michael Chare wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the same
way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust, paint
with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body filler,
sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double glazed
glass made to order to the size I specify.

Thats pretty much the norm for all replacement UPVC windows!

I plan to replace my Crital
frames and wood surrounds. The frames are 7cm thick and have to be
glazed from the inside.

Not much help if the OP wants to keep the original look.

Tim
--
Please don't feed the trolls

wrote in message
...
On Thursday, 9 May 2019 18:06:57 UTC+1, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the same
way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust, paint
with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body filler,
sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

According to tests on youtube, vinegar is the most effective rust remover.

Dont believe that.

On Sat, 11 May 2019 05:39:17 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:



According to tests on youtube, vinegar is the most effective rust remover.

Don¢t believe that.

Thanks for letting us know, senile Rodent!

--
Richard addressing Rot Speed:
"**** you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll."
MID:

On 10/05/2019 16:05, Andrew wrote:
On 10/05/2019 09:39, wrote:
On 09/05/2019 23:32, Michael Chare wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the
rust, paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester
body filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double glazed
glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to replace my
Crital frames and wood surrounds.Â* The frames are 7cm thick and have
to be glazed from the inside.


Unfortunately plastic does not look the same, nor does stick-on
leading look the same as real leading. Also, it would be ruinously
expensive to replace the large number of casements in this house.

Though not as ruinously expensive as replacing with new Crittall
windows, though the new ones will at least be double glazed with
thermal breaks and will still have fairly slim profiles.

True, but I have about 80 casements! Most are OK. Some have "a bit of
rust". A few look OK but the glazing is being pushed away from the
casement, so there must be rust. A few are badly rusted and need either
filler or welding. To adapt a well known saying: buy a house in haste
and repent at leisure.

On 10/05/2019 12:59, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust,
paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body
filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

Don't know if it applies to yours (the level of rust may suggest not)
but many I see are galvanised steel - hence finding an appropriate
primer that will bond properly is harder.



These are late 30s "arts and crafts", which is before they started
galvanising.

On Sunday, 12 May 2019 22:28:32 UTC+1, wrote:
On 10/05/2019 12:59, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:

I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust,
paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body
filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

Don't know if it applies to yours (the level of rust may suggest not)
but many I see are galvanised steel - hence finding an appropriate
primer that will bond properly is harder.



These are late 30s "arts and crafts", which is before they started
galvanising.

Maybe it's an option to take them out, strip em, acid dip & galvanise.


NT

On 10/05/2019 14:07, wrote:


According to tests on youtube, vinegar is the most effective rust remover.


Only if left in a solution for 24hrs+ and these are in-situ window
frames. Its not the MOST effective!

Phosphoric acid is a rust converter (available on Ebay) but check on a
test piece that after conversion the paint used for over-coating is not
affected.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+acid&_sacat=0

Its sold in different concentrations - you need the high concentrations.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS8Cke3CLC4

Although the phosphoric acid is possibly the cheap option it has the
consistency of water and you may need a few applications before it fully
converts the rust, possibly taking up to 24 hours.



--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 12/05/2019 22:27, wrote:
On 10/05/2019 16:05, Andrew wrote:
On 10/05/2019 09:39, wrote:
On 09/05/2019 23:32, Michael Chare wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the
rust, paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester
body filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and
rust eaters?

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double glazed
glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to replace my
Crital frames and wood surrounds.Â* The frames are 7cm thick and have
to be glazed from the inside.


Unfortunately plastic does not look the same, nor does stick-on
leading look the same as real leading. Also, it would be ruinously
expensive to replace the large number of casements in this house.

Though not as ruinously expensive as replacing with new Crittall
windows, though the new ones will at least be double glazed with
thermal breaks and will still have fairly slim profiles.

True, but I have about 80 casements! Most are OK. Some have "a bit of
rust". A few look OK but the glazing is being pushed away from the
casement, so there must be rust. A few are badly rusted and need either
filler or welding. To adapt a well known saying: buy a house in haste
and repent at leisure.

I think 80 is comfortably more than Crittall put in his own country
residence when he built it in the 30s. Can't help wonder if you bought
a house or an office block!


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 13/05/2019 09:04, Robin wrote:
On 12/05/2019 22:27, wrote:
On 10/05/2019 16:05, Andrew wrote:
On 10/05/2019 09:39, wrote:
On 09/05/2019 23:32, Michael Chare wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in
the same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out
the rust, paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with
polyester body filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has
any advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and
rust eaters?

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double
glazed glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to replace
my Crital frames and wood surrounds.Â* The frames are 7cm thick and
have to be glazed from the inside.


Unfortunately plastic does not look the same, nor does stick-on
leading look the same as real leading. Also, it would be ruinously
expensive to replace the large number of casements in this house.

Though not as ruinously expensive as replacing with new Crittall
windows, though the new ones will at least be double glazed with
thermal breaks and will still have fairly slim profiles.

True, but I have about 80 casements! Most are OK. Some have "a bit of
rust". A few look OK but the glazing is being pushed away from the
casement, so there must be rust. A few are badly rusted and need
either filler or welding. To adapt a well known saying: buy a house in
haste and repent at leisure.

I think 80 is comfortably more than Crittall put in his own country
residence when he built it in the 30s.Â* Can't help wonder if you bought
a house or an office block!


I suppose a double fronted house could have (say) 5 x 4 casements front
and back (40), plus a bunch scattered at the sides and a few dormers.

Whichever, it's quite a pile!



--
Cheers, Rob

On 13/05/2019 00:24, wrote:
On Sunday, 12 May 2019 22:28:32 UTC+1, wrote:
On 10/05/2019 12:59, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:

I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust,
paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body
filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

Don't know if it applies to yours (the level of rust may suggest not)
but many I see are galvanised steel - hence finding an appropriate
primer that will bond properly is harder.



These are late 30s "arts and crafts", which is before they started
galvanising.

Maybe it's an option to take them out, strip em, acid dip & galvanise.


NT

If I take some out I'll get them sand blasted and powder coated, but the
problem will be getting the leaded lights out (and back!) intact. It all
seems rather daunting on top of everything else that needs doing.

On 13/05/2019 06:35, alan_m wrote:
On 10/05/2019 14:07, wrote:


According to tests on youtube, vinegar is the most effective rust
remover.


Only if left in a solution for 24hrs+ and these are in-situ window
frames. Its not the MOST effective!

Phosphoric acid is a rust converter (available on Ebay) but check on a
test piece that after conversion the paint used for over-coating is not
affected.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+acid&_sacat=0


Its sold in different concentrations - you need the high concentrations.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS8Cke3CLC4

Although the phosphoric acid is possibly the cheap option it has the
consistency of water and you may need a few applications before it fully
converts the rust, possibly taking up to 24 hours.

I remember (I think) using that on my old bangers in the 70s. Someone
else posted this link
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion...st-treatments/
which looks interesting.

On 13/05/2019 09:36, RJH wrote:
On 13/05/2019 09:04, Robin wrote:
On 12/05/2019 22:27, wrote:
On 10/05/2019 16:05, Andrew wrote:
On 10/05/2019 09:39, wrote:
On 09/05/2019 23:32, Michael Chare wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:
I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in
the same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out
the rust, paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with
polyester body filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has
any advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and
rust eaters?

I have found that I can buy plastic window frames with double
glazed glass made to order to the size I specify. I plan to
replace my Crital frames and wood surrounds.Â* The frames are 7cm
thick and have to be glazed from the inside.


Unfortunately plastic does not look the same, nor does stick-on
leading look the same as real leading. Also, it would be ruinously
expensive to replace the large number of casements in this house.

Though not as ruinously expensive as replacing with new Crittall
windows, though the new ones will at least be double glazed with
thermal breaks and will still have fairly slim profiles.

True, but I have about 80 casements! Most are OK. Some have "a bit of
rust". A few look OK but the glazing is being pushed away from the
casement, so there must be rust. A few are badly rusted and need
either filler or welding. To adapt a well known saying: buy a house
in haste and repent at leisure.

I think 80 is comfortably more than Crittall put in his own country
residence when he built it in the 30s.Â* Can't help wonder if you
bought a house or an office block!


I suppose a double fronted house could have (say) 5 x 4 casements front
and back (40), plus a bunch scattered at the sides and a few dormers.

Whichever, it's quite a pile!



It's not small but it's a long way from being "a pile" - there are just
lots of windows. I hadn't realised quite what a project we were taking-on.

On Monday, 13 May 2019 11:34:57 UTC+1, wrote:
On 13/05/2019 00:24, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 12 May 2019 22:28:32 UTC+1, wrote:
On 10/05/2019 12:59, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:

I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust,
paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body
filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

Don't know if it applies to yours (the level of rust may suggest not)
but many I see are galvanised steel - hence finding an appropriate
primer that will bond properly is harder.



These are late 30s "arts and crafts", which is before they started
galvanising.

Maybe it's an option to take them out, strip em, acid dip & galvanise.


NT

If I take some out I'll get them sand blasted and powder coated, but the
problem will be getting the leaded lights out (and back!) intact. It all
seems rather daunting on top of everything else that needs doing.

Fun. I'm not sure there's any shortcut, unless blasting in situ might be an option for some of them.

FWIW I've always wondered how effective it would be to have a second sheet of glass outside the window & frame, wih a gap at the bottom. Idea being to keep rain off the frame & slow air movement on the glass.


NT

On 13/05/2019 14:50, wrote:
On Monday, 13 May 2019 11:34:57 UTC+1, wrote:
On 13/05/2019 00:24, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 12 May 2019 22:28:32 UTC+1, wrote:
On 10/05/2019 12:59, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:

I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust,
paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body
filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

Don't know if it applies to yours (the level of rust may suggest not)
but many I see are galvanised steel - hence finding an appropriate
primer that will bond properly is harder.



These are late 30s "arts and crafts", which is before they started
galvanising.

Maybe it's an option to take them out, strip em, acid dip & galvanise.


NT

If I take some out I'll get them sand blasted and powder coated, but the
problem will be getting the leaded lights out (and back!) intact. It all
seems rather daunting on top of everything else that needs doing.

Fun. I'm not sure there's any shortcut, unless blasting in situ might be an option for some of them.

FWIW I've always wondered how effective it would be to have a second sheet of glass outside the window & frame, wih a gap at the bottom. Idea being to keep rain off the frame & slow air movement on the glass.


Bit of a shame to have 80 casements that can't be opened.


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On Monday, 13 May 2019 15:38:24 UTC+1, Robin wrote:
On 13/05/2019 14:50, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 13 May 2019 11:34:57 UTC+1, wrote:
On 13/05/2019 00:24, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 12 May 2019 22:28:32 UTC+1, wrote:
On 10/05/2019 12:59, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/05/2019 18:06, wrote:

I've got several of these to do and am planning to tackle it in the
same way I used to tackle car bodywork in the 70s: grind out the rust,
paint with some sort of anti-rust primer, fill with polyester body
filler, sand, prime and top coat.
Is there anyone here who has renovated Crittall windows and has any
advice (other than replace them)?
...or any car body experts who can suggest primers, fillers and rust
eaters?

Don't know if it applies to yours (the level of rust may suggest not)
but many I see are galvanised steel - hence finding an appropriate
primer that will bond properly is harder.



These are late 30s "arts and crafts", which is before they started
galvanising.

Maybe it's an option to take them out, strip em, acid dip & galvanise.


NT

If I take some out I'll get them sand blasted and powder coated, but the
problem will be getting the leaded lights out (and back!) intact. It all
seems rather daunting on top of everything else that needs doing.

Fun. I'm not sure there's any shortcut, unless blasting in situ might be an option for some of them.

FWIW I've always wondered how effective it would be to have a second sheet of glass outside the window & frame, wih a gap at the bottom. Idea being to keep rain off the frame & slow air movement on the glass.


Bit of a shame to have 80 casements that can't be opened.

....for sliding sash windows of course. Shouldn't take too much brainage to work out how to adapt it for casements.


NT

On 13/05/2019 14:37, wrote:
It's not small but it's a long way from being "a pile" - there are just
lots of windows. I hadn't realised quite what a project we were taking-on.
take them all out, get them bead blasted galvanised and powder coated
and put them all back



--
Climate Change: Socialism wearing a lab coat.