Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under, one at
each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the units) to
keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.

Any issues with this (for instance that they don't do little feet)?

The first supplier we are looking at is Benchmark, (where I should be able
to get trade prices through my Travis Perkins trade account).
Has anyone any experience of them, good or bad?


Cheers



Dave R

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On 03/05/2019 18:29, David wrote:
Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).


FWIW, I made the mistake of buying a really cheap kitchen carcase on
eBay, for a wall mounted cupboard. I could almost see the chipboard
woodchips through the white "laminate".

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under, one at
each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the units) to
keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.

Folks normally stand in a kitchen, but ...

Have some forward overhang off the top if you do intend to sit at them,
so your knees can go somewhere underneath. Having some greater depth is
useful for large PC cases etc..

--
Adrian C

On 03/05/2019 18:53, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 03/05/2019 18:29, David wrote:
Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).


FWIW, I made the mistake of buying a really cheap kitchen carcase on
eBay, for a wall mounted cupboard. I could almost see the chipboard
woodchips through the white "laminate".

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under, one at
each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the units) to
keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.

Folks normally stand in a kitchen, but ...

Have some forward overhang off the top if you do intend to sit at them,
so your knees can go somewhere underneath. Having some greater depth is
useful for large PC cases etc..

Benchmarx maybe part of Travis Perkins but when I enquired last year
they wouldnt accept a TP account but was told I had to open another
Trade Account for Benchmarx.

On Fri, 03 May 2019 18:53:09 +0100, Adrian Caspersz wrote:

On 03/05/2019 18:29, David wrote:
Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).


FWIW, I made the mistake of buying a really cheap kitchen carcase on
eBay, for a wall mounted cupboard. I could almost see the chipboard
woodchips through the white "laminate".

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under, one
at each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the units)
to keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.

Folks normally stand in a kitchen, but ...

Have some forward overhang off the top if you do intend to sit at them,
so your knees can go somewhere underneath. Having some greater depth is
useful for large PC cases etc..

Neglected to mention there should be around 900 mm of free space in the
middle between the pan drawer units with plenty of space for knees and
perhaps a couple of tower PCs.

Cheers


Dave R

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On Fri, 03 May 2019 19:38:13 +0100, Robert wrote:

On 03/05/2019 18:53, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 03/05/2019 18:29, David wrote:
Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).


FWIW, I made the mistake of buying a really cheap kitchen carcase on
eBay, for a wall mounted cupboard. I could almost see the chipboard
woodchips through the white "laminate".

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under, one
at each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the units)
to keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.

Folks normally stand in a kitchen, but ...

Have some forward overhang off the top if you do intend to sit at them,
so your knees can go somewhere underneath. Having some greater depth is
useful for large PC cases etc..

Benchmarx maybe part of Travis Perkins but when I enquired last year
they wouldnt accept a TP account but was told I had to open another
Trade Account for Benchmarx.

Guy today said a Trade Account at TP was OK. I will check and report back.

On the subject of the legs for the base unit, it looks as though they are
a top, a bottom, and a plastic tube so I might be able to cut the tube
very short to drop the units down almost to the floor.


Cheers


Dave R


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You might find if you cut the tubes too short you might have access issues accessing the rear leg for adjusting if it's against a room corner or adjacent to another unit.....

On Friday, 3 May 2019 18:29:51 UTC+1, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the units) to
keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.
Any issues with this (for instance that they don't do little feet)?

Just had a look at my naff Wickes units.

The horizontal base sits within the side panels, so you could fix the base part-way up the side panels, giving you clearance for the feet, but the door and sides would come almost down to the floor.

Owain

On 03/05/2019 18:29, David wrote:
Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under, one at
each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the units) to
keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.

Any issues with this (for instance that they don't do little feet)?

The first supplier we are looking at is Benchmark, (where I should be able
to get trade prices through my Travis Perkins trade account).
Has anyone any experience of them, good or bad?


Really you need to retain a plinth / kick space and have a shortened
cabinet. You might be able to just cut 150mm off the top of the unit
(off the parts before you assemble it). You would then need the drawers
configured as 2 pan drawers plus a shallow one on top, and you would use
just the two deep ones. You might find carcases that size sold as
bathroom cabinets, or bedroom.

TW

TimW Wrote in message:
On 03/05/2019 18:29, David wrote:
Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under, one at
each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the units) to
keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.

Any issues with this (for instance that they don't do little feet)?

The first supplier we are looking at is Benchmark, (where I should be able
to get trade prices through my Travis Perkins trade account).
Has anyone any experience of them, good or bad?


Really you need to retain a plinth / kick space and have a shortened
cabinet. You might be able to just cut 150mm off the top of the unit
(off the parts before you assemble it). You would then need the drawers
configured as 2 pan drawers plus a shallow one on top, and you would use
just the two deep ones.

Sounds like a potentially massive ballache ... Splintered
finishes, wonky units, you name it.

What's wrong with small feet? Assuming the floor is pretty level
even a couple of bits of 3x2 with packers as necessary will do
what he wants?

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On Sat, 04 May 2019 06:15:09 -0700, stephenten wrote:

You might find if you cut the tubes too short you might have access
issues accessing the rear leg for adjusting if it's against a room
corner or adjacent to another unit.....

I'm thinking that as I have only two units, one at each end of the run, I
can lift them out to twiddle feet if necessary.

If I set the backs up then I can do the fine tuning with the front,
hopefully.

I should be able to get at three of the four feet because both units are
going to be in room corners.

I'm hoping that it will be a lot more straightforward than a run of
several units.



Cheers


Dave r


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On Saturday, 4 May 2019 19:10:19 UTC+1, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
I should be able to get at three of the four feet because both units are
going to be in room corners.

In that case you could just fix them to the side walls and not have any feet.

The worktop in between the two units, in compression, will stop the units pulling out of the wall and all the force will be downwards on the wall fixings.

Diagonal bracing on the back will transfer forces from the worktop to the walls.

Owain

On 04/05/2019 18:35, Jim K.. wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:
On 03/05/2019 18:29, David wrote:
Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under, one at
each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the units) to
keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.


What's wrong with small feet? Assuming the floor is pretty level
even a couple of bits of 3x2 with packers as necessary will do
what he wants?

Small adjustable feet are available from Howdens - "HKC0073" - minimum
45mm.They are adjustable from within the cabinet and worked okay for me.
I assume similar ones are available elsewhere.

On 05/05/2019 08:44, Robert wrote:
On 04/05/2019 18:35, Jim K.. wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:
On 03/05/2019 18:29, David wrote:
Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under,
one at
each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the
units) to
keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.


What's wrong with small feet? Assuming the floor is pretty level
Â* even a couple of bits of 3x2 with packers as necessary will do
Â* what he wants?

Small adjustable feet are available from Howdens - "HKC0073" - minimum
45mm.They are adjustable from within the cabinet and worked okay for me.
I assume similar ones are available elsewhere.


Do you need adjustable feet at all? Most furniture for carpeted rooms
doesn't have them. Use a thin work top (maybe just a sheet of ply) which
will twist slightly and conform to any unevenness. I'd rather do that
than have a desk that's too high to work at.

You'd still need battens underneath the units, to allow the bottom
drawers to open, but 20mm should do it.

On Sun, 05 May 2019 13:24:06 +0100, GB wrote:

On 05/05/2019 08:44, Robert wrote:
On 04/05/2019 18:35, Jim K.. wrote:
TimW Wrote in message:
On 03/05/2019 18:29, David wrote:
Not for the kitchen but for the home office (or junk room).

It does look pretty straightforward; a straight run of work surface
roughly 2,400 mm across the room with two pan drawer units under,
one at each end. Then a tall wall unit to one side of the window.

The base units, though, come with feet to raise the work surface to
standing level of about 900 mm off the floor.

I would like minimalist feet (just enough twiddle to level the
units) to keep the desk top at around 750 mm off the floor.


What's wrong with small feet? Assuming the floor is pretty level
Â* even a couple of bits of 3x2 with packers as necessary will do what
Â* he wants?

Small adjustable feet are available from Howdens - "HKC0073" - minimum
45mm.They are adjustable from within the cabinet and worked okay for
me.
I assume similar ones are available elsewhere.


Do you need adjustable feet at all? Most furniture for carpeted rooms
doesn't have them. Use a thin work top (maybe just a sheet of ply) which
will twist slightly and conform to any unevenness. I'd rather do that
than have a desk that's too high to work at.

You'd still need battens underneath the units, to allow the bottom
drawers to open, but 20mm should do it.

Room isn't carpeted. :-)

I intended to use a single run of worktop to avoid joins and hopefully add
strength.

However as the with of the room is about 2.4 metres it is a good thought
that a standard board such as ply in 2400 * 1200 would cut down to make a
desktop without paying through the nose for chipboard and plastic.

Hmmm...no, 1200 is just too deep. However a standard worktop is 600 mm so
an extra few 100 mm might not go amiss. 900 mm perhaps?

Good information on the feet from Howdens by Robert, though.

Cheers



Dave R

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On Sunday, 5 May 2019 17:30:23 UTC+1, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
However as the with of the room is about 2.4 metres it is a good thought
that a standard board such as ply in 2400 * 1200 would cut down to make a
desktop without paying through the nose for chipboard and plastic.
Hmmm...no, 1200 is just too deep. However a standard worktop is 600 mm so
an extra few 100 mm might not go amiss. 900 mm perhaps?

The excess depth could be ripped down to give you a matching shelf or two full width.

Just watch the diagonal length and non-square walls for manouvring it into place.

Owain

On Sun, 05 May 2019 11:29:28 -0700, spuorgelgoog wrote:

On Sunday, 5 May 2019 17:30:23 UTC+1, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
However as the with of the room is about 2.4 metres it is a good
thought that a standard board such as ply in 2400 * 1200 would cut down
to make a desktop without paying through the nose for chipboard and
plastic. Hmmm...no, 1200 is just too deep. However a standard worktop
is 600 mm so an extra few 100 mm might not go amiss. 900 mm perhaps?

The excess depth could be ripped down to give you a matching shelf or
two full width.

Just watch the diagonal length and non-square walls for manouvring it
into place.

Owain

Sadly a full width shelf across the window might be counter productive. :-)

I suspect some gaps might end up being filled at the sides.

Probably trunking across the back to hide the cables.
Hmmmm.....use the excess to make matching trunking?
Or just do it the easy way with plastic?


Cheers


Dave R


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On Monday, 6 May 2019 20:41:37 UTC+1, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
Sadly a full width shelf across the window might be counter productive. :-)

Or it might be the ideal place for a pot plant, or anything you want to expose to UV light.

Probably trunking across the back to hide the cables.
Hmmmm.....use the excess to make matching trunking?
Or just do it the easy way with plastic?

Cut in some cable access portholes so the wires can drop down out of sight.

Owain

Wrote in message:
On Monday, 6 May 2019 20:41:37 UTC+1, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
Sadly a full width shelf across the window might be counter productive. :-)

Or it might be the ideal place for a pot plant, or anything you want to expose to UV light.

Assuming the window opens?
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On Mon, 06 May 2019 13:22:10 -0700, spuorgelgoog wrote:

On Monday, 6 May 2019 20:41:37 UTC+1, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
Sadly a full width shelf across the window might be counter productive.
:-)

Or it might be the ideal place for a pot plant, or anything you want to
expose to UV light.

Probably trunking across the back to hide the cables.
Hmmmm.....use the excess to make matching trunking?
Or just do it the easy way with plastic?

Cut in some cable access portholes so the wires can drop down out of
sight.

Owain

Yes - I will be looking for those plastic rings with brush inside to act
as holes for cabling.

Now wondering if I should put some sockets into the desk top with a plug
on the end of the cabling to go into a wall socket. Sort of designer
distribution board.

Then again, so many things, so little time....

Cheers


Dave R



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On 07/05/2019 14:52, David wrote:
On Mon, 06 May 2019 13:22:10 -0700, spuorgelgoog wrote:

On Monday, 6 May 2019 20:41:37 UTC+1, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
Sadly a full width shelf across the window might be counter productive.
:-)

Or it might be the ideal place for a pot plant, or anything you want to
expose to UV light.

Probably trunking across the back to hide the cables.
Hmmmm.....use the excess to make matching trunking?
Or just do it the easy way with plastic?

Cut in some cable access portholes so the wires can drop down out of
sight.

Owain

Yes - I will be looking for those plastic rings with brush inside to act
as holes for cabling.

Now wondering if I should put some sockets into the desk top with a plug
on the end of the cabling to go into a wall socket. Sort of designer
distribution board.

How about those pop up ones? They fit into a circular hole and can be
pulled up and locked, giving multiple sockets when required.

https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrica...ets/cat6040010

Then again, so many things, so little time....

Cheers


Dave R

On Tue, 07 May 2019 13:52:00 +0000, David wrote:

Yes - I will be looking for those plastic rings with brush inside to act
as holes for cabling.

Now wondering if I should put some sockets into the desk top with a plug
on the end of the cabling to go into a wall socket. Sort of designer
distribution board.

Me too. Just working out details of the bench.



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