I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).

--
Andrew Gabriel

On Friday, 3 May 2019 11:30:07 UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

You can still get solvent-based gloss, eg Wickes.

Dulux water-based gloss is ****e by comparison.

Even the Wickes isn't what I'd call hard-wearing.

me leaving it in the house for months before cutting and fitting).

I do that with things too. I've got a stainless steel kitchen sink I'm waiting for it to be the right moment to fit.

Owain

On 03/05/2019 11:30, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).


My experience of modern water-based satin finish paints on kitchen
cabinets is that they are not impressive. The combination of hands,
maybe oily foodstuffs and cleaning products removes the paint.

Depending on the brand the oil based paint may only be in the trade
range and may only be exterior grade, or alternatively marketed as
historic, restoration type authentic oil paint.

TW

wrote in message
...
On Friday, 3 May 2019 11:30:07 UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

You can still get solvent-based gloss, eg Wickes.

Dulux water-based gloss is ****e by comparison.

you can still get solvent based Dulux

tim

On 03/05/2019 11:30, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).

--
Andrew Gabriel
Do they *need* to be painted? Oiled wood looks lovely. Oil is easy to
apply and easy to repair.
If the wood is uninspiring then you could rub-in a little stain before
oiling, but I would avoid the combined "oil + stain" products because
they can give uneven results (although perhaps it's my bad technique).
Walnut or light oak stains look particularly good IMHO. You could try
some on an off-cut, but don't judge until you've applied a couple of
coats of oil.

In article ,
TimW wrote:
On 03/05/2019 11:30, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).


My experience of modern water-based satin finish paints on kitchen
cabinets is that they are not impressive. The combination of hands,
maybe oily foodstuffs and cleaning products removes the paint.

Depending on the brand the oil based paint may only be in the trade
range and may only be exterior grade, or alternatively marketed as
historic, restoration type authentic oil paint.

What's wrong with 'exterior grade'? You might need to have then windows
opne for a bit, but that's all.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

Wrote in message:
On 03/05/2019 11:30, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).

--
Andrew Gabriel
Do they *need* to be painted? Oiled wood looks lovely. Oil is easy to
apply and easy to repair.
If the wood is uninspiring then you could rub-in a little stain before
oiling, but I would avoid the combined "oil + stain" products because
they can give uneven results (although perhaps it's my bad technique).
Walnut or light oak stains look particularly good IMHO. You could try
some on an off-cut, but don't judge until you've applied a couple of
coats of oil.


+1
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 03/05/2019 15:31, charles wrote:
In article ,
TimW wrote:
On 03/05/2019 11:30, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).


My experience of modern water-based satin finish paints on kitchen
cabinets is that they are not impressive. The combination of hands,
maybe oily foodstuffs and cleaning products removes the paint.

Depending on the brand the oil based paint may only be in the trade
range and may only be exterior grade, or alternatively marketed as
historic, restoration type authentic oil paint.

What's wrong with 'exterior grade'? You might need to have then windows
opne for a bit, but that's all.

Nothing at all. I was saying you might need to buy 'exterior' paint but
that's fine. You don't need the UV resistance but hey.
TW

On Fri, 3 May 2019 15:31:06 +0100
wrote:

On 03/05/2019 11:30, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high
volatile paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters
and handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried
out by now on account of me leaving it in the house for months
before cutting and fitting).

I'd have thought it would have higher moisture content from being
left in the house, assuming it was initially kiln dried.

Do they *need* to be painted? Oiled wood looks lovely. Oil is easy to
apply and easy to repair.

Or just the occasional coat of wax.

If the wood is uninspiring then you could rub-in a little stain
before oiling, but I would avoid the combined "oil + stain" products
because they can give uneven results (although perhaps it's my bad
technique).

No, they're just ****.

Walnut or light oak stains look particularly good IMHO.
You could try some on an off-cut, but don't judge until you've
applied a couple of coats of oil.

If it's softwood I'd tend to use a natural looking stain like honey or
antique pine - softwood can look really naff when stained with darker
or cooler hardwood colours.

On Friday, 3 May 2019 14:45:09 UTC+1, tim... wrote:
Dulux water-based gloss is ****e by comparison.
you can still get solvent based Dulux

Not in Tangerine or Lime, which are the colours I wanted for my kitchen. Or at least not where I was shopping.

Owain

In article ,
wrote:
On Friday, 3 May 2019 14:45:09 UTC+1, tim... wrote:
Dulux water-based gloss is ****e by comparison.
you can still get solvent based Dulux

Not in Tangerine or Lime, which are the colours I wanted for my kitchen.
Or at least not where I was shopping.

Go to a decent Decorators Merchant. They'll make any colour in any paint.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 03/05/2019 11:30, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).

--
Andrew Gabriel

Two pack epoxy yacht paint?




--
If you tell a lie big enough and keep repeating it, people will
eventually come to believe it. The lie can be maintained only for such
time as the State can shield the people from the political, economic
and/or military consequences of the lie. It thus becomes vitally
important for the State to use all of its powers to repress dissent, for
the truth is the mortal enemy of the lie, and thus by extension, the
truth is the greatest enemy of the State.

Joseph Goebbels

Well all I can say is do not use Acrylic paint. It never seems to dry and
any sign of water or damp and it goes sticky or falls off! It looked nice
for about a week though complete with its surface treatment. Its been rubbed
down and redone with 'traditional' paint but you can still feel some of the
rougher places where the stuff that was the undercoat for the previous paint
is leaching out of the wood.
Bah Humbug.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting and
fitting).

--
Andrew Gabriel

Yes I have a new TV aerial like that as well grin.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
wrote in message
...
On Friday, 3 May 2019 11:30:07 UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

You can still get solvent-based gloss, eg Wickes.

Dulux water-based gloss is ****e by comparison.

Even the Wickes isn't what I'd call hard-wearing.

me leaving it in the house for months before cutting and fitting).

I do that with things too. I've got a stainless steel kitchen sink I'm
waiting for it to be the right moment to fit.

Owain

On 03/05/2019 15:31, charles wrote:
In article ,
TimW wrote:
On 03/05/2019 11:30, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).


My experience of modern water-based satin finish paints on kitchen
cabinets is that they are not impressive. The combination of hands,
maybe oily foodstuffs and cleaning products removes the paint.

Depending on the brand the oil based paint may only be in the trade
range and may only be exterior grade, or alternatively marketed as
historic, restoration type authentic oil paint.

What's wrong with 'exterior grade'? You might need to have then windows
opne for a bit, but that's all.


My recent experience with oil/solvent based gloss is that it remains
"soft" and liable to surface damage for weeks. Once this period has
elapsed it is then much more robust. If painting banisters with such a
paint you may have to be very careful for a couple of weeks until it
fully dries/cures.

My banisters are painted with a water based gloss and after a while the
oils/dirt on hands tends to make the paint surface somewhat sticky as
though the paint is actually absorbing the oils or dirt.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 04/05/2019 09:04, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Two pack epoxy yacht paint?

I need to buy some soon. For indoor work I would think the price would
put you off.

It'll do a lovely job once. I have a garden seat I varnished with 2-pot
about 7 year ago (end of a tin). It still looks good.

Andy

On Friday, 3 May 2019 11:30:07 UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).

The toughest finish I have achieved with "modern" paint was by coating the pigmented paint with tough clear acrylic varnish. Screwfix sold the one we use - still got plenty so have not checked in a long time. Expressly sold for floors.

It does affect the colour - a bit - so necessary to take that into account.

Although it feels dry very quickly, the toughening process seems to take much, much longer so it is best if it can be left unused, or somehow protected, for some time.

I always used a roller to apply it - not caring for brushstrokes and preferring the slight orange-peel stipple.

On 06/05/2019 08:04, polygonum_on_google wrote:

preferring the slight orange-peel stipple.


Probably not that ideal for a surface that hands are likely to rub on a
regular basis. The high points in the stipple will tend to abrade the
oil and dirt from the hands which then collects in the low points.

With water based paints I too prefer the slight orange-peel stipple
finish to the brush stroke finish. Even after viewing some Youtube
videos suggesting that you can get a mirror like surface with water
based paints I have yet to achieved this - however most of the time I
don't care to much as long as the paint surface looks OK from 3 foot
away

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Monday, 6 May 2019 08:46:49 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
On 06/05/2019 08:04, polygonum_on_google wrote:

preferring the slight orange-peel stipple.


Probably not that ideal for a surface that hands are likely to rub on a
regular basis. The high points in the stipple will tend to abrade the
oil and dirt from the hands which then collects in the low points.

With water based paints I too prefer the slight orange-peel stipple
finish to the brush stroke finish. Even after viewing some Youtube
videos suggesting that you can get a mirror like surface with water
based paints I have yet to achieved this - however most of the time I
don't care to much as long as the paint surface looks OK from 3 foot
away

You could well be right - but I'll still go for stipple.

Other than where it is a positive feature, "wet look" shine is possibly unnecessary and even unpleasant in a domestic setting.

On Monday, 6 May 2019 08:04:34 UTC+1, polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Friday, 3 May 2019 11:30:07 UTC+1, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile
paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and
handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface
preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by
now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting
and fitting).

The toughest finish I have achieved with "modern" paint was by coating the pigmented paint with tough clear acrylic varnish. Screwfix sold the one we use - still got plenty so have not checked in a long time. Expressly sold for floors.

It does affect the colour - a bit - so necessary to take that into account.

Although it feels dry very quickly, the toughening process seems to take much, much longer so it is best if it can be left unused, or somehow protected, for some time.

I always used a roller to apply it - not caring for brushstrokes and preferring the slight orange-peel stipple.

The product is Aqualac - no idea if it is still available.