On Sunday, 17 March 2019 20:51:32 UTC, newshound wrote:
On 17/03/2019 09:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?

Your basic plan is fine, but get yourself a set of cobalt drills,
Toolstation does a cheap set, or Bosch do them individually or as a set.
A bit more expensive than TS but *very* good.

The advantage over "normal" high speed steel "metal" bits is that they
won't blunt when you go through the metal even if you hit normal brick
or blocks, rather than lightweight.

That type of lintel ought to be easy enough to drill. RSJs are sometimes
more difficult partly because of the section thickness, and you can also
hit non-metallic inclusions.

There's a bit more skill in drilling metal than wood or masonry, you
need to have the right combination of pressure and drill speed and it
all depends on the size of hole. But a 6 mm hole with a normal domestic
mains or cordless drill should be no problem. Slow speed and quite a lot
of pressure, you should be able to "feel" when it is cutting.

carbide tipped is so much better than 'cobalt'


NT

On Monday, 18 March 2019 14:15:49 UTC, JimK wrote:

I would be doing something similar in your situation. Screws into
the lintel sounds good to me plus foam if you like but brace it
well whilst it cures or it will bend the insulation &/ or
plasterboard whether it's "low" expansion or not...

DAMHIKT

:-)

Yes, will probably take that approach. If nothing else I'll learn something along the way.

On Sunday, 17 March 2019 20:51:32 UTC, newshound wrote:

There's a bit more skill in drilling metal than wood or masonry [...]

Thanks for the tips - will be useful for future reference. I'll check out the cobalt drill bits at TS... The reviews sound good, apart from one notable review from someone who wasn't happy that he only got 3 holes through his 12mm steel beam. I'll take that as a good sign for my situation!

On 18/03/2019 23:18, Mathew Newton wrote:
The reviews sound good, apart from one notable review from someone who
wasn't happy that he only got 3 holes through his 12mm steel beam. I'll
take that as a good sign for my situation!


Possible it would have helped if the tip of the drill bit was not
running red hot

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Tue, 19 Mar 2019 06:52:14 +0000, alan_m wrote:

On 18/03/2019 23:18, Mathew Newton wrote:
The reviews sound good, apart from one notable review from someone who
wasn't happy that he only got 3 holes through his 12mm steel beam. I'll
take that as a good sign for my situation!


Possible it would have helped if the tip of the drill bit was not
running red hot

Cobalt is supposed to be cooled - impractical in most situations though.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 18/03/2019 23:06, wrote:
On Sunday, 17 March 2019 20:51:32 UTC, newshound wrote:
On 17/03/2019 09:46, Mathew Newton wrote:
I need to affix some insulated plasterboard to the underside of an IG Extra Heavy Duty steel lintel:

https://iglintels.com/wp-content/upl...heavy_duty.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/lintel.jpg

My plan was to glue and screw it in place, using Fischer UX plugs into the aerated concrete blocks above. I therefore need to drill a few 6mm holes through the lintel and was wondering how easy this will be?

The main reason I ask is that I've always found drilling metal hard work, but then all my metal drill bits are those which either came with drills or assorted bit sets. I'm sure in both cases they're the cheapest of the cheap.

Ought something like this suffice?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-str...6-x-93mm/239fv

Any other tips?

Your basic plan is fine, but get yourself a set of cobalt drills,
Toolstation does a cheap set, or Bosch do them individually or as a set.
A bit more expensive than TS but *very* good.

The advantage over "normal" high speed steel "metal" bits is that they
won't blunt when you go through the metal even if you hit normal brick
or blocks, rather than lightweight.

That type of lintel ought to be easy enough to drill. RSJs are sometimes
more difficult partly because of the section thickness, and you can also
hit non-metallic inclusions.

There's a bit more skill in drilling metal than wood or masonry, you
need to have the right combination of pressure and drill speed and it
all depends on the size of hole. But a 6 mm hole with a normal domestic
mains or cordless drill should be no problem. Slow speed and quite a lot
of pressure, you should be able to "feel" when it is cutting.

carbide tipped is so much better than 'cobalt'


NT

Not for metal. I agree for masonry.

On 19/03/2019 09:18, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 19 Mar 2019 06:52:14 +0000, alan_m wrote:

On 18/03/2019 23:18, Mathew Newton wrote:
The reviews sound good, apart from one notable review from someone who
wasn't happy that he only got 3 holes through his 12mm steel beam. I'll
take that as a good sign for my situation!


Possible it would have helped if the tip of the drill bit was not
running red hot

Cobalt is supposed to be cooled - impractical in most situations though.

They recommend a cutting fluid, but (as with HSS) drilling steel without
it is OK for a shallow hole, given the right combination of speed and
pressure, and "touch".

Hand-drilling a 12 mm steel beam is not easy. In the trade they would
use a drill press with a magnetic base, and almost certainly be applying
cutting fluid by hand.

On Monday, 18 March 2019 20:03:20 UTC, alan_m wrote:

One of the reviews on the screwfix site says:
[...]
look for PU010 panel adhesive on the illbruck web site

Thanks Alan; will take a look.