Reducing width of wooden door
I've something like this, it's made of wood,
https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. I can't see a problem..... |
Reducing width of wooden door
R D S laid this down on his screen :
I've something like this, it's made of wood, https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. I can't see a problem..... If it is full width to begin with, then taking an inch off either side should be fine. |
Reducing width of wooden door
On 13/03/2019 18:57, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
R D S laid this down on his screen : I've something like this, it's made of wood, https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. I can't see a problem..... If it is full width to begin with, then taking an inch off either side should be fine. Well I bought it and it's square, so I plainly haven't cut it! :) |
Reducing width of wooden door
On 13/03/2019 19:29, R D S wrote:
On 13/03/2019 18:57, Harry Bloomfield wrote: R D S laid this down on his screen : I've something like this, it's made of wood, https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. I can't see a problem..... If it is full width to begin with, then taking an inch off either side should be fine. Well I bought it and it's square, so I plainly haven't cut it! :) You will probably get away with it. The proportions may look slightly odd because the stiles are already fairly narrow. I presume it is safe to assume it won't have any hidden metal pins securing the mortises? If I was doing it, I would use a circular saw together with my 8 foot sawboard, this ensures a dead straight and square cut that can just be tidied up with a bit of sandpaper. Which reminds me, I must make up sawboards to go with my new Evolution circular saw, which has the great advantage of going through odd nails and screws as though they were not there. |
Reducing width of wooden door
On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote:
I've something like this, it's made of wood, https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. I can't see a problem..... Probably no problem at all. Some mass produced doors are not simply wood but a glued up 'engineered wood' - a sort of blockboard for the 21st century. So check the ends and check for glue lines. TW |
Reducing width of wooden door
R D S wrote:
https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. It says "engineered" which could mean the insides aren't what you'd expect ... |
Reducing width of wooden door
On 13/03/2019 22:24, Andy Burns wrote:
R D S wrote: https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. It says "engineered" which could mean the insides aren't what you'd expect ... That usually means MDF core with real wood overcoat... Hence you *might* expose the MDF at the sides when cutting it. If that happens then you may need to cut it slightly undersize (say 1/4" total) and then plant a pine lippings on the cut edges - if you add 1/8" strips, and then plane a bevel on the corners you wont even see the join. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Reducing width of wooden door
On Wed, 13 Mar 2019 22:43:17 +0000, John Rumm
wrote: If that happens then you may need to cut it slightly undersize (say 1/4" total) and then plant a pine lippings on the cut edges - if you add 1/8" strips, and then plane a bevel on the corners you wont even see the join. If you have accurate means of cutting: cut two 1/8" strips off the sides, then cut the door so that sticking these strips back on gives you the width you want. Feasible with a table saw, or sawboard and thicknesser, and maybe you can pull it off with just a sawboard... Thomas Prufer |
Reducing width of wooden door
John Rumm wrote:
Andy Burns wrote: It says "engineered" which could mean the insides aren't what you'd expect ... That usually means MDF core with real wood overcoat... Hence you *might* expose the MDF at the sides when cutting it. The last door I bought from B&Q was manufactured by Jeld-Wen, it arrived with instructions saying how may mm could be cut from top, bottom and sides. |
Reducing width of wooden door
On Wed, 13 Mar 2019 22:43:17 +0000, John Rumm wrote:
On 13/03/2019 22:24, Andy Burns wrote: R D S wrote: https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. It says "engineered" which could mean the insides aren't what you'd expect ... That usually means MDF core with real wood overcoat... Hence you *might* expose the MDF at the sides when cutting it. If that happens then you may need to cut it slightly undersize (say 1/4" total) and then plant a pine lippings on the cut edges - if you add 1/8" strips, and then plane a bevel on the corners you wont even see the join. It's typical that the two sizes nearest to that needed sare so far out. I wondered if it might be easier/neater to get the narrower one and build it up a bit. Still, putting-on tools tend to be more expensive than taking-off tools (with slight change in wording, also applies to another subject!). -- Peter. The gods will stay away whilst religions hold sway |
Reducing width of wooden door
On 14/03/2019 08:48, PeterC wrote:
It's typical that the two sizes nearest to that needed sare so far out. I wondered if it might be easier/neater to get the narrower one and build it up a bit. You mean get (H)1981mm (W)762mm? The OP has not said what frame the door sits in, but if that's painted it would be pretty easy to add some strips of wood to build that up a bit. Still, putting-on tools tend to be more expensive than taking-off tools (with slight change in wording, also applies to another subject!). |
Reducing width of wooden door
On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote:
I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. As it happens it's a good job the door casing didn't fit after i'd cut it to suit the door (or thought). Because i'd made the whole aperture 30 inch, instead of the rebated part that the door sits in. Thick as ####. |
Reducing width of wooden door
On 14/03/2019 18:05, Jim K.. wrote:
R D S Wrote in message: On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote: I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. As it happens it's a good job the door casing didn't fit after i'd cut it to suit the door (or thought). Because i'd made the whole aperture 30 inch, instead of the rebated part that the door sits in. Thick as ####. Cheap mistake to put right shurely? Free. I'd decided the door needed to be much smaller when the casing i'd knocked up wouldn't fit in the hole in the wall. But having originally measured the casing like a knob and the now reduced size casing being almost the right size it means I only need to take a slither off the door. All's well that ends well. |
Reducing width of wooden door
R D S Wrote in message:
On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote: I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. As it happens it's a good job the door casing didn't fit after i'd cut it to suit the door (or thought). Because i'd made the whole aperture 30 inch, instead of the rebated part that the door sits in. Thick as ####. Cheap mistake to put right shurely? -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
Reducing width of wooden door
R D S Wrote in message:
On 14/03/2019 18:05, Jim K.. wrote: R D S Wrote in message: On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote: I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side. As it happens it's a good job the door casing didn't fit after i'd cut it to suit the door (or thought). Because i'd made the whole aperture 30 inch, instead of the rebated part that the door sits in. Thick as ####. Cheap mistake to put right shurely? Free. I'd decided the door needed to be much smaller when the casing i'd knocked up wouldn't fit in the hole in the wall. But having originally measured the casing like a knob and the now reduced size casing being almost the right size it means I only need to take a slither off the door. All's well that ends well. Honour restored! (Don't tell anyone else ;-);-) ) -- Jim K ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:21 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter