I've something like this, it's made of wood,
https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd

I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side.

I can't see a problem.....

R D S laid this down on his screen :
I've something like this, it's made of wood,
https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd

I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side.

I can't see a problem.....

If it is full width to begin with, then taking an inch off either side
should be fine.

On 13/03/2019 18:57, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
R D S laid this down on his screen :
I've something like this, it's made of wood,
https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd


I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each
side.

I can't see a problem.....

If it is full width to begin with, then taking an inch off either side
should be fine.

Well I bought it and it's square, so I plainly haven't cut it!

On 13/03/2019 19:29, R D S wrote:
On 13/03/2019 18:57, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
R D S laid this down on his screen :
I've something like this, it's made of wood,
https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd


I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each
side.

I can't see a problem.....

If it is full width to begin with, then taking an inch off either side
should be fine.

Well I bought it and it's square, so I plainly haven't cut it!

You will probably get away with it. The proportions may look slightly
odd because the stiles are already fairly narrow. I presume it is safe
to assume it won't have any hidden metal pins securing the mortises?

If I was doing it, I would use a circular saw together with my 8 foot
sawboard, this ensures a dead straight and square cut that can just be
tidied up with a bit of sandpaper.

Which reminds me, I must make up sawboards to go with my new Evolution
circular saw, which has the great advantage of going through odd nails
and screws as though they were not there.

On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote:
I've something like this, it's made of wood,
https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd


I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side.

I can't see a problem.....

Probably no problem at all. Some mass produced doors are not simply wood
but a glued up 'engineered wood' - a sort of blockboard for the 21st
century. So check the ends and check for glue lines.

TW

R D S wrote:

https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd
I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side.

It says "engineered" which could mean the insides aren't what you'd
expect ...

On 13/03/2019 22:24, Andy Burns wrote:
R D S wrote:

https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd
I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each
side.

It says "engineered" which could mean the insides aren't what you'd
expect ...

That usually means MDF core with real wood overcoat...

Hence you *might* expose the MDF at the sides when cutting it. If that
happens then you may need to cut it slightly undersize (say 1/4" total)
and then plant a pine lippings on the cut edges - if you add 1/8"
strips, and then plane a bevel on the corners you wont even see the join.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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On Wed, 13 Mar 2019 22:43:17 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

If that
happens then you may need to cut it slightly undersize (say 1/4" total)
and then plant a pine lippings on the cut edges - if you add 1/8"
strips, and then plane a bevel on the corners you wont even see the join.

If you have accurate means of cutting: cut two 1/8" strips off the sides, then
cut the door so that sticking these strips back on gives you the width you want.
Feasible with a table saw, or sawboard and thicknesser, and maybe you can pull
it off with just a sawboard...


Thomas Prufer

John Rumm wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

It says "engineered" which could mean the insides aren't what you'd
expect ...

That usually means MDF core with real wood overcoat...
Hence you *might* expose the MDF at the sides when cutting it.

The last door I bought from B&Q was manufactured by Jeld-Wen, it arrived
with instructions saying how may mm could be cut from top, bottom and sides.

On Wed, 13 Mar 2019 22:43:17 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

On 13/03/2019 22:24, Andy Burns wrote:
R D S wrote:

https://www.diy.com/departments/4-pa.../176097_BQ.prd
I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each
side.

It says "engineered" which could mean the insides aren't what you'd
expect ...

That usually means MDF core with real wood overcoat...

Hence you *might* expose the MDF at the sides when cutting it. If that
happens then you may need to cut it slightly undersize (say 1/4" total)
and then plant a pine lippings on the cut edges - if you add 1/8"
strips, and then plane a bevel on the corners you wont even see the join.

It's typical that the two sizes nearest to that needed sare so far out. I
wondered if it might be easier/neater to get the narrower one and build it
up a bit.
Still, putting-on tools tend to be more expensive than taking-off tools
(with slight change in wording, also applies to another subject!).
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 14/03/2019 08:48, PeterC wrote:

It's typical that the two sizes nearest to that needed sare so far out. I
wondered if it might be easier/neater to get the narrower one and build it
up a bit.

You mean get (H)1981mm (W)762mm? The OP has not said what frame the door
sits in, but if that's painted it would be pretty easy to add some
strips of wood to build that up a bit.


Still, putting-on tools tend to be more expensive than taking-off tools
(with slight change in wording, also applies to another subject!).

On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote:
I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side.

As it happens it's a good job the door casing didn't fit after i'd cut
it to suit the door (or thought).
Because i'd made the whole aperture 30 inch, instead of the rebated part
that the door sits in.

Thick as ####.

On 14/03/2019 18:05, Jim K.. wrote:
R D S Wrote in message:
On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote:
I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side.

As it happens it's a good job the door casing didn't fit after i'd cut
it to suit the door (or thought).
Because i'd made the whole aperture 30 inch, instead of the rebated part
that the door sits in.

Thick as ####.


Cheap mistake to put right shurely?


Free.

I'd decided the door needed to be much smaller when the casing i'd
knocked up wouldn't fit in the hole in the wall.
But having originally measured the casing like a knob and the now
reduced size casing being almost the right size it means I only need to
take a slither off the door.

All's well that ends well.

R D S Wrote in message:
On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote:
I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side.

As it happens it's a good job the door casing didn't fit after i'd cut
it to suit the door (or thought).
Because i'd made the whole aperture 30 inch, instead of the rebated part
that the door sits in.

Thick as ####.


Cheap mistake to put right shurely?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

R D S Wrote in message:
On 14/03/2019 18:05, Jim K.. wrote:
R D S Wrote in message:
On 13/03/2019 18:38, R D S wrote:
I'm relocating it and could do with taking it down by an inch at each side.

As it happens it's a good job the door casing didn't fit after i'd cut
it to suit the door (or thought).
Because i'd made the whole aperture 30 inch, instead of the rebated part
that the door sits in.

Thick as ####.


Cheap mistake to put right shurely?


Free.

I'd decided the door needed to be much smaller when the casing i'd
knocked up wouldn't fit in the hole in the wall.
But having originally measured the casing like a knob and the now
reduced size casing being almost the right size it means I only need to
take a slither off the door.

All's well that ends well.



Honour restored!
(Don't tell anyone else ;-);-) )
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/