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On Thursday, 14 March 2019 19:36:57 UTC, Terry Casey wrote:
In article e5784359-80eb-490a-9440-60969b339866
@googlegroups.com, tabbypurr says...
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 12:06:57 UTC, Terry Casey wrote:
In article ff9a9243-3888-4584-8c76-a0cf3eea7a95


Let's see. Vintage radios and TVs using 'live chassis'
construction techniques, especially if the mains connection
was via a reversible plug/socket arrangement on the back of
the receiver.


that shouldn't change the live chassi issue, but the connectors are mostly not compliant - touchable live pins, no cordgrip. Can be bypassed.


Not in my experience.

The pins of the male connector don't protrude beyond the back
of the set which has a slot with just enough clearance for the
female connect to pass through so that the only time that the
pins are exposed is when the connector is removed.


I've not encountered a lot of connectors on the appliance, but IMLE they mostly failed.
Some had bare pins sticking out, though a lot were as you say shrouded. Shrouded connectors were frequently touchable live when part-way in.
Bulgins were usually unscrewable without a tool, so require a mod to stop that

And that circa 1910 hotplate? It had 3 sticking out pins connected to differing points of the element. The mains lead had 3 separate 1 pole sockets on.. The power level depended on which pins the L&N sockets were pushed onto. The remaining pin was of course live. Hopefully you pushed the socket on the 3rd green wire onto it, and didn't foolishly connect it to earth in the plug. Of course there was no earth conection on the hotplate. But even with all 3 connectors on you could still touch the live bits.


I've vever come acros a connector without a cord grip (usually
moulded serrations in both sides so that the flat flex is
firmly clamped when the fiving screw is tightened.


I've seen tons of old mains connectors that lacked an effective cordgrip. It's a frequent problem

Uninsulated control spindles so that, if the felt washer
between the knob and cabinet is missing, a fine probe in the
gap could come into contact with the potentially live spindle,
depending on the design of the knob. If the knob isn't secured
by an inaccessible strong spring clip, the securing grub screw
can also be contacted with a suitable probe.


Fit felt washer, cut one if necessary. A soft epoxy resin over the set screw.


I was thinking of a drop of molten candle wax!


not robust enough


NT

At the rear, again a sutable probe through the ventilation
slots could contact the chassis or other live parts.


as long as it's not touchable. If it is, affix plastic netting.

But would any of these result in a PAT fail?


the connector usually

No, for the reason I stated above

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On Thursday, 14 March 2019 19:49:02 UTC, Bill Wright wrote:
On 14/03/2019 17:52, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 12:37:16 UTC, Bill Wright wrote:
On 14/03/2019 09:15, tabbypurr wrote:


I used to do various silly things with mains when a kid, no-one got harmed, doesn't mean it was safe.


Comparing your childhood antics with my lifetime's experience is false
equivalence.

Bill

I think the point is clear enough.

It's clearly fallacious if that's what you mean.

Bill


your point that not being harmed equals safe certainly was.
I think we can agree on that.

My point being twofold. One, that where a risk has been shown to be
effectively non-existent by the situation occurring many times without
harm befalling man or beast then it should be treated that way, and two,


absolutely, as long as the number of successes is high enough

that having assessed and used countless mains extension leads without
harming the afore mentioned man or beast, I am de facto qualified to
test mains extension leads.


that is the nonsequitur. You may be very well qualified to test them, but not because no-one has gotten hurt.


NT
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On Thursday, 14 March 2019 22:52:37 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 14/03/2019 12:06, Terry Casey wrote:


There are some where the live chassis is accessible with a regular mark
one finger!


Loads of historic stuff hasn't a gnat's chance in hell of passing a PAT test. OTOH some was very progressive on safety.


Folk whose hobby is restoring vintage sets frequently complain
about the loss of rare items because most charity and second
hand shops refuse to accept them because they have no-one able
to PAT test them or simply because the mains lead has
red/black insulation, although it is perfectly legal on any
set built pre-1970, so these sets go to the tip instead.


Perhaps the solution is if that is your thing, to visit all the likely
shops and leave them a card saying if you get any donations of this kind
of kit, please let me know and I will come get it.


Generally thy won't do it as it leaves them liable.


NT

(or failing that, offer to do free PAT testing for them on the
understanding you can keep any "interesting" stuff that won't pass the
test).

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In article 63cdacc4-2fb5-4e8f-8432-098591ca6b19
@googlegroups.com, says...

I've not encountered a lot of connectors on the appliance, but IMLE they mostly failed.
Some had bare pins sticking out, though a lot were as you say shrouded. Shrouded connectors were frequently touchable live when part-way in.


I spent 9 years repairing radios and TVs from 1960 - 69, so
saw a wide variety of sets dating back to the early/mid 50s
from numerous manufacturers and never saw a set with exposed
pins. The connectors were all variants of a 5A 2 pin flex
connector, which is exactly what we used on the bench - the
manufacturers special version never left the customer's home.

There was a variant we occasionally saw, a polarised connector
with one standard size pin and one thin pin but a length of
matchstick in the appropriate hole of the female bench
connector resolved that problem!

By the end of the 60s, all manufacturers had moved away from
the detachable mains lead concept and new sets had integral
leads.

Bulgins were usually unscrewable without a tool, so require a mod to stop that


H yes, the Bulgin P73 and P74 and the later miniature P360 - I
remember them well! What form does the mod take?


I've seen tons of old mains connectors that lacked an effective cordgrip. It's a frequent problem


Yes, I can recall a number of plugs that were expected to be
fitted with cables much thicker that thin twin flex that left
a lot to be desired!


Fit felt washer, cut one if necessary. A soft epoxy resin over the set screw.


I was thinking of a drop of molten candle wax!


not robust enough


Fair enough. I have, on very rare occasions, come across knobs
with a short plastic grub screw fitted on top of the metal
screw but I doubt you could find them these days and, of
course, they would need BA threads!

Thinking about it, the knobs must have been specially made too
as you wouldn't normally expect to find a threaded hole in the
plastic part.

--

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On Friday, 15 March 2019 11:09:55 UTC, Terry Casey wrote:
In article 63cdacc4-2fb5-4e8f-8432-098591ca6b19
@googlegroups.com, tabbypurr says...

I've not encountered a lot of connectors on the appliance, but IMLE they mostly failed.
Some had bare pins sticking out, though a lot were as you say shrouded. Shrouded connectors were frequently touchable live when part-way in.


I spent 9 years repairing radios and TVs from 1960 - 69, so
saw a wide variety of sets dating back to the early/mid 50s
from numerous manufacturers and never saw a set with exposed
pins. The connectors were all variants of a 5A 2 pin flex
connector, which is exactly what we used on the bench - the
manufacturers special version never left the customer's home.

There was a variant we occasionally saw, a polarised connector
with one standard size pin and one thin pin but a length of
matchstick in the appropriate hole of the female bench
connector resolved that problem!

By the end of the 60s, all manufacturers had moved away from
the detachable mains lead concept and new sets had integral
leads.


50s TVs were the first things I tried to repair, but mostly my experience has been with anything other than TVs. Largely various audio stuff.

Bulgins were usually unscrewable without a tool, so require a mod to stop that


H yes, the Bulgin P73 and P74 and the later miniature P360 - I
remember them well! What form does the mod take?


It's a long time since I even saw a Bulgin. A small screw somewhere stops it unscrewing by hand, but I don't recall just where the screw went, other than through the plastic thread.

I've seen tons of old mains connectors that lacked an effective cordgrip. It's a frequent problem


Yes, I can recall a number of plugs that were expected to be
fitted with cables much thicker that thin twin flex that left
a lot to be desired!


yes, and a lot with what are perhaps best described as unsuccessful attempts at cordgrips.


Fit felt washer, cut one if necessary. A soft epoxy resin over the set screw.

I was thinking of a drop of molten candle wax!


not robust enough


Fair enough. I have, on very rare occasions, come across knobs
with a short plastic grub screw fitted on top of the metal
screw but I doubt you could find them these days and, of
course, they would need BA threads!

Thinking about it, the knobs must have been specially made too
as you wouldn't normally expect to find a threaded hole in the
plastic part.


Turns out it's quite practical to duplicate old knobs now. Silicone to make a mould + resin.


NT


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On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:17:26 UTC, Terry Casey wrote:
In article 85d4a6e4-c3b2-4846-baff-85e4c615dbd3
@googlegroups.com, says...


Only things that are going to be used need to be PAT tested.


Well, if you think that a vintage TV isn't going to be used,
explain why large numbers of these are sold in the UK?


I never said that.
Look above to what I actually said.



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On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 11:17:35 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 17:29:08 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 16:55:05 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:57:20 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:49:29 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:27:27 UTC, dennis@home wrote:

When we first started PAT testing I had to unscrew the tops off any none moulded plug for such things checks and change the fuse from 13amp to 5 amp or 3 amp.
Any plug without shrouded pins was removed and replaced.
I had a box of 100s of 13amp fuses at the end, probbly still have them somewhere.
Then the lead was PAT tested using the PAT testing machine.

Modern appliances are all safe on a 13A fuse. Old ones not always.

But the fuse is to protect the cable not the appliance.

on recent stuff yes. Old stuff often really does need that 3A fuse if it's to be safe.


But it has to come up to the recent standards that;s why you have tp replace the cord


My 1937 mains lead is still ok & compliant. Many that age aren't of course.

and check for earthing on antique light fittings, although I cna think you can leave them as is providing they can't be connected up easily.
Or for specialsed places like museums.


Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant antiques safe.


It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen and viewed.





NT


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On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 11:17:35 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 17:29:08 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 16:55:05 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:57:20 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:49:29 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:27:27 UTC, dennis@home wrote:

When we first started PAT testing I had to unscrew the tops off any none moulded plug for such things checks and change the fuse from 13amp to 5 amp or 3 amp.
Any plug without shrouded pins was removed and replaced.
I had a box of 100s of 13amp fuses at the end, probbly still have them somewhere.
Then the lead was PAT tested using the PAT testing machine.

Modern appliances are all safe on a 13A fuse. Old ones not always.

But the fuse is to protect the cable not the appliance.

on recent stuff yes. Old stuff often really does need that 3A fuse if it's to be safe.

But it has to come up to the recent standards that;s why you have tp replace the cord


My 1937 mains lead is still ok & compliant. Many that age aren't of course.

and check for earthing on antique light fittings, although I cna think you can leave them as is providing they can't be connected up easily.
Or for specialsed places like museums.


Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant antiques safe.


It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen and viewed.


lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?
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On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 12:39:02 +0000
Bill Wright wrote:

On 14/03/2019 05:08, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp Esq wrote:


The three doesn't mean 3kW you know.


That must take the prize for the silliest post of the year.

Indeed - I have an extension lead with a 3A fuse fitted (and I have
written on the plug and the socket "3A fuse fitted") I don't think
this would be good for a 3kW load.

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wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 11:17:35 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 17:29:08 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 16:55:05 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:57:20 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:49:29 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:27:27 UTC, dennis@home wrote:

When we first started PAT testing I had to unscrew the tops
off any none moulded plug for such things checks and change
the fuse from 13amp to 5 amp or 3 amp.
Any plug without shrouded pins was removed and replaced.
I had a box of 100s of 13amp fuses at the end, probbly still
have them somewhere.
Then the lead was PAT tested using the PAT testing machine.

Modern appliances are all safe on a 13A fuse. Old ones not
always.

But the fuse is to protect the cable not the appliance.

on recent stuff yes. Old stuff often really does need that 3A fuse
if it's to be safe.

But it has to come up to the recent standards that;s why you have tp
replace the cord

My 1937 mains lead is still ok & compliant. Many that age aren't of
course.

and check for earthing on antique light fittings, although I cna
think you can leave them as is providing they can't be connected up
easily.
Or for specialsed places like museums.

Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant antiques
safe.


It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it is
then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen and
viewed.


lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?


Use and isolating transformer, stupid.



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On Friday, 15 March 2019 18:38:39 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:


Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant antiques
safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it is
then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen and
viewed.


lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?


Use and isolating transformer, stupid.


I wanted to see if Dave had a clue. Thanks for ruining that.


NT
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On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 17:39:58 +0000, Rob Morley
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 12:39:02 +0000
Bill Wright wrote:

On 14/03/2019 05:08, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp Esq wrote:


The three doesn't mean 3kW you know.


That must take the prize for the silliest post of the year.

Indeed - I have an extension lead with a 3A fuse fitted (and I have
written on the plug and the socket "3A fuse fitted") I don't think
this would be good for a 3kW load.


On the contrary, it's an excellent plan for a 3kW load. Unless of
course the cable is rated at 3kW coiled of course.

Have you seen a 13A fused 50metre extention that has supplied a 3kW
load?

It tends to lack that "just off Wickes shelf" look :-)

AB
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On Wed, 13 Mar 2019 12:20:13 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

On 12/03/2019 19:22, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp Esq wrote:
On Tue, 12 Mar 2019 13:15:05 +0000, Bill Wright
wrote:

On 12/03/2019 03:57, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp Esq wrote:

Like yourself though, they all knew everything there was to know about
the subject even before they did the course.

Your sarcasm fails because actually I do know everything necessary to
check the safety of a mains extension lead. As do many people.

Unfortunately for technical pseudo-elitists it really isn't rocket science.

Bill


Really?

I would suggest that you are not fit to plug the dammned cable into a
socket.


Yup, but that is because you are generally obnoxious and have your head
too far up your own arse.


I am not overly popular with some of the people I work with either,
and I work with one hell of a lot of Hi Vis and forward parking
spotters.

If I do raise a H&S issue then it's with good reason and flippant know
it alls that get away with things for years do get their come uppance
eventually. Accidents may be less frequent than years back, but the
results are the same, with the added costs of court proceedings.

AB
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On Mon, 11 Mar 2019 09:52:04 GMT, DerbyBorn
wrote:





Resolved - one of the committee has a husband who has access to a recently
PAT Tested and stickered lead for the event.

I think it is all about just keeping people happy.

I suppose the presenter was trying to avoid any blame if a faulty lead had
been provided due to her requiring one for the presentation. Avoiding
liability by being seen to be taking every step to ensure safety.



Seemed an overkill.


If a faulty lead had been provided and the equipment used was class 1,
the lady would have been at a much higher level of risk, in fact the
risk may be a certainty of shock or electrocution if the circumstances
were right.

Taking every reasonable step to ensure safety isn't an overkill at
all. It's to be expected and anything else is negligence.

Methinks the lady would be better off finding other venues if what
should be normal adherence to current practices is "overkill".

I hope for everyones sake the heating to the hall isn't by gas!!

AB


l
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On 15/03/2019 11:09, Terry Casey wrote:
In article 63cdacc4-2fb5-4e8f-8432-098591ca6b19
says...
I've not encountered a lot of connectors on the appliance, but IMLE they mostly failed.
Some had bare pins sticking out, though a lot were as you say shrouded. Shrouded connectors were frequently touchable live when part-way in.

I spent 9 years repairing radios and TVs from 1960 - 69, so
saw a wide variety of sets dating back to the early/mid 50s
from numerous manufacturers and never saw a set with exposed
pins. The connectors were all variants of a 5A 2 pin flex
connector, which is exactly what we used on the bench - the
manufacturers special version never left the customer's home.


I recall leaning on the front of a military transmitter sometime in the
70s - it may well have been 50s vintage.

I recall it because there were three live mains pins on the front. It hurt.

Andy


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On Saturday, 16 March 2019 04:38:35 UTC, Bill Wright wrote:
On 15/03/2019 01:29, tabbypurr wrote:

that having assessed and used countless mains extension leads without
harming the afore mentioned man or beast, I am de facto qualified to
test mains extension leads.


that is the nonsequitur. You may be very well qualified to test them, but not because no-one has gotten hurt.


What better qualification could I have? Maybe a piece of paper handed
out after a three hour course at the local tech?

Bill


Electrical knowledge plus knowing what issues to look for. I don't doubt you have the former. Hopefully you have the latter too, though it's not implied by either electrical knowledge or years of experience.


NT
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In article ,
wrote:
On Friday, 15 March 2019 18:38:39 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:


Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant
antiques safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety
rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it
is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen
and viewed.

lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?


Use and isolating transformer, stupid.


I wanted to see if Dave had a clue. Thanks for ruining that.


He'd already mentioned them earlier on the thread.

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On Saturday, 16 March 2019 12:16:06 UTC, charles wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 15 March 2019 18:38:39 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:


Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant
antiques safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety
rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it
is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen
and viewed.

lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?

Use and isolating transformer, stupid.


I wanted to see if Dave had a clue. Thanks for ruining that.


He'd already mentioned them earlier on the thread.


I'm not sure what you mean by 'them.' Fitting an iso won't make such radios pass.


NT


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On Saturday, 16 March 2019 18:36:05 UTC, mal wrote:
On Sat, 16 Mar 2019 11:24:12 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 16 March 2019 12:16:06 UTC, charles wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 15 March 2019 18:38:39 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:

Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant
antiques safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety
rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it
is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen
and viewed.

lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?

Use and isolating transformer, stupid.

I wanted to see if Dave had a clue. Thanks for ruining that.

He'd already mentioned them earlier on the thread.


I'm not sure what you mean by 'them.' Fitting an iso won't make such radios pass.


NT

why wouldnt it
if youv got a transformer the power from the tester goes to the
primary. the primary isnt connected to owt else. there wouldnt be
anything read to earth so if one side of the base was earted then its
ok

malc


I'll wait & see what various people say first.


NT
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wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 March 2019 12:16:06 UTC, charles wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 15 March 2019 18:38:39 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:


Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant
antiques safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety
rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it
is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen
and viewed.

lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?

Use and isolating transformer, stupid.


I wanted to see if Dave had a clue. Thanks for ruining that.


He'd already mentioned them earlier on the thread.


I'm not sure what you mean by 'them.'


Isolating transformers.

Fitting an iso won't make such radios pass.


But would mean that they are safe to use.

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On Sat, 16 Mar 2019 10:57:22 +0000
mal %% wrote:

Me nans doctor was struck off for having no quals he was doing it for
years and was no good

He can't have been struck off because if he had no qualifications he
wouldn't have been on the register in the first place.

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On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 06:16:01 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:


I'm not sure what you mean by 'them.'


Isolating transformers.


He wasn't talking to you, senile idiot!

Fitting an iso won't make such radios pass.


But would mean that they are safe to use.


He wasn't talking to you, senile idiot!

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"I'm not the least surprised. The man is a conspicuous and unashamed
ignoramus."
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  #146   Report Post  
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On Friday, 15 March 2019 16:52:44 UTC, wrote:
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 11:17:35 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 17:29:08 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 16:55:05 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:57:20 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:49:29 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:27:27 UTC, dennis@home wrote:

When we first started PAT testing I had to unscrew the tops off any none moulded plug for such things checks and change the fuse from 13amp to 5 amp or 3 amp.
Any plug without shrouded pins was removed and replaced.
I had a box of 100s of 13amp fuses at the end, probbly still have them somewhere.
Then the lead was PAT tested using the PAT testing machine.

Modern appliances are all safe on a 13A fuse. Old ones not always.

But the fuse is to protect the cable not the appliance.

on recent stuff yes. Old stuff often really does need that 3A fuse if it's to be safe.

But it has to come up to the recent standards that;s why you have tp replace the cord

My 1937 mains lead is still ok & compliant. Many that age aren't of course.

and check for earthing on antique light fittings, although I cna think you can leave them as is providing they can't be connected up easily.
Or for specialsed places like museums.

Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant antiques safe.


It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen and viewed.


lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?


No idea as I haven't one to make safe.

I couldn;t have made the Titanic safe either unless I had teh authority to refuse to gibe it a sea worthy license or whatever ships are given.

  #148   Report Post  
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On Saturday, 16 March 2019 19:16:11 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 March 2019 12:16:06 UTC, charles wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 15 March 2019 18:38:39 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:

Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant
antiques safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety
rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it
is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen
and viewed.

lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?

Use and isolating transformer, stupid.

I wanted to see if Dave had a clue. Thanks for ruining that.

He'd already mentioned them earlier on the thread.


I'm not sure what you mean by 'them.'


Isolating transformers.

Fitting an iso won't make such radios pass.


But would mean that they are safe to use.


Curtain burners were so-called because they were prone to setting curtains alight. The mains lead worked ok as long as it wasn't coiled & covered with cloth, but do so & the resistance wire in the lead caused a fire. So no, you can't make one safe by fitting an iso, it would still be a fire hazard. A safe way to drop the voltage is also required. And since you already are using a transformer...


NT
  #149   Report Post  
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Posts: 40,893
Default PAT



wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 March 2019 19:16:11 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 March 2019 12:16:06 UTC, charles wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 15 March 2019 18:38:39 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:

Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant
antiques safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary
safety
rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all
weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it
it
is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be
seen
and viewed.

lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?

Use and isolating transformer, stupid.

I wanted to see if Dave had a clue. Thanks for ruining that.

He'd already mentioned them earlier on the thread.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'them.'


Isolating transformers.

Fitting an iso won't make such radios pass.


But would mean that they are safe to use.


Curtain burners were so-called because they were prone to setting curtains
alight. The mains lead worked ok as long as it wasn't coiled & covered
with
cloth, but do so & the resistance wire in the lead caused a fire.


Dont believe radios used enough power to do that. And few had their
radio under the curtains anyway. There may have been a problem at
times with just one power point per room, but now that we dont have
that anymore, one of those antiques with an iso isnt going to be setting
fire to the curtains anymore even if the cord does catch fire,

Corse it could set fire to the carpet now instead,
but thats got nothing to do with electrical safety.

So no, you can't make one safe by fitting an iso, it would still be a fire
hazard.


Bull****.

A safe way to drop the voltage is also required.
And since you already are using a transformer...


Still got the problem with the cord catching fire.
In fact a worse one given the higher current.

  #150   Report Post  
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Posts: 12,364
Default PAT

On Monday, 18 March 2019 23:36:31 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 March 2019 19:16:11 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 March 2019 12:16:06 UTC, charles wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 15 March 2019 18:38:39 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:

Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant
antiques safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary
safety
rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all
weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it
it
is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be
seen
and viewed.

lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?

Use and isolating transformer, stupid.

I wanted to see if Dave had a clue. Thanks for ruining that.

He'd already mentioned them earlier on the thread.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'them.'

Isolating transformers.

Fitting an iso won't make such radios pass.

But would mean that they are safe to use.


Curtain burners were so-called because they were prone to setting curtains
alight. The mains lead worked ok as long as it wasn't coiled & covered
with
cloth, but do so & the resistance wire in the lead caused a fire.


Dont believe radios used enough power to do that. And few had their
radio under the curtains anyway. There may have been a problem at
times with just one power point per room, but now that we dont have
that anymore, one of those antiques with an iso isnt going to be setting
fire to the curtains anymore even if the cord does catch fire,

Corse it could set fire to the carpet now instead,
but thats got nothing to do with electrical safety.

So no, you can't make one safe by fitting an iso, it would still be a fire
hazard.


Bull****.

A safe way to drop the voltage is also required.
And since you already are using a transformer...


Still got the problem with the cord catching fire.
In fact a worse one given the higher current.


Well that's one way to show you have no grasp of what a curtain burner is.


NT


  #151   Report Post  
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Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL

On Tue, 19 Mar 2019 10:36:21 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:

FLUSH the abnormal know-it-all's latest senile bull**** unread again

--
about senile Rot Speed:
"This is like having a conversation with someone with brain damage."
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  #152   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 40,893
Default PAT



wrote in message
...
On Monday, 18 March 2019 23:36:31 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 March 2019 19:16:11 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 16 March 2019 12:16:06 UTC, charles wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 15 March 2019 18:38:39 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
tabbypurr wrote in message
...
On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:

Can be an interesting question how one can make
noncompliant
antiques safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary
safety
rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all
weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in
it
it
is then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can
be
seen
and viewed.

lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe
then?

Use and isolating transformer, stupid.

I wanted to see if Dave had a clue. Thanks for ruining that.

He'd already mentioned them earlier on the thread.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'them.'

Isolating transformers.

Fitting an iso won't make such radios pass.

But would mean that they are safe to use.


Curtain burners were so-called because they were prone to setting
curtains
alight. The mains lead worked ok as long as it wasn't coiled & covered
with
cloth, but do so & the resistance wire in the lead caused a fire.


Dont believe radios used enough power to do that. And few had their
radio under the curtains anyway. There may have been a problem at
times with just one power point per room, but now that we dont have
that anymore, one of those antiques with an iso isnt going to be setting
fire to the curtains anymore even if the cord does catch fire,

Corse it could set fire to the carpet now instead,
but thats got nothing to do with electrical safety.

So no, you can't make one safe by fitting an iso, it would still be a
fire
hazard.


Bull****.

A safe way to drop the voltage is also required.
And since you already are using a transformer...


Still got the problem with the cord catching fire.
In fact a worse one given the higher current.


Well that's one way to show you have no grasp of what a curtain burner is.


You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag.

  #153   Report Post  
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Posts: 3,153
Default Lonely Psychopathic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL

On Tue, 19 Mar 2019 12:51:54 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:


Well that's one way to show you have no grasp of what a curtain burner is.


You never could bull**** your way out of a wet paper bag.


You certainly KEEP bull****ting your way into your grave, you 85-year-old,
despicable senile pest!

--
Bod addressing senile Rot:
"Rod, you have a sick twisted mind. I suggest you stop your mindless
and totally irresponsible talk. Your mouth could get you into a lot of
trouble."
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