One of these was fitted 5 years ago to control the ceiling light fitting
in the utility room; fitted with a 3A fuse, but can find no instruction
leaflet, and have failed to deduce the use of the buttons.
(Is mounted high on inner garage wall, so difficult to access)

Question: (1) How does one use the buttons on this RCD to test, and reset?
(1 orange, 1 red)

(2) There seems to be no on/off function. (Use red to
disconnect?)

(3) How does one get the fuse out to check it?
Seems to sit in a somewhat fragile cradle.)

--
/\/\aurice (Retired in E.Hants)
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On Fri, 08 Feb 2019 09:44:45 +0000, I wrote:

One of these

See: https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-g...cd-fused-spur-
white/8250P?

--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On 08/02/2019 09:49, Maurice wrote:
On Fri, 08 Feb 2019 09:44:45 +0000, I wrote:

One of these

See: https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-g...cd-fused-spur-
white/8250P?


The screwfix site show the GB model number as 955RCD

Maybe this is similar ..

https://www.bgelectrical.uk/public/d...ction_unit.pdf

--
Adrian C

On 08/02/2019 09:49, Maurice wrote:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-g...cd-fused-spur-
white/8250P

Manual:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technic..._Datasheet.pdf




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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On 08/02/2019 09:49, Maurice wrote:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-g...cd-fused-spur-
white/8250P?

see
https://www.bgelectrical.uk/public/downloads/data-sheets/white-moulded/855RCD_13amp_rcd_fused_connection_unit.pdf



--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

Maurice wrote:
One of these was fitted 5 years ago to control the ceiling light fitting
in the utility room; fitted with a 3A fuse, but can find no instruction
leaflet, and have failed to deduce the use of the buttons.
(Is mounted high on inner garage wall, so difficult to access)

Question: (1) How does one use the buttons on this RCD to test, and reset?
(1 orange, 1 red)

(2) There seems to be no on/off function. (Use red to
disconnect?)

(3) How does one get the fuse out to check it?
Seems to sit in a somewhat fragile cradle.)

I don't know about 1 and 2 but the answer to 3 is usually with a small
screwdriver and a lot of swearing.

--
Chris Green
·

On Fri, 08 Feb 2019 10:05:16 +0000, Chris Green wrote:

I don't know about 1 and 2 but the answer to 3 is usually with a small
screwdriver and a lot of swearing.

I know what you mean!
The problem is that the unit is so high on the wall that I can't
readily
see what I'm doing.

When I levered the fuse cradle out, I could still not remove the fuse to
check it, so I pulled the cradle all the way out.
(Too late did I eventually see in the Data Sheet that it is not meant
to be
pulled completely out...)

Fuse OK (If so why wouldn't the new bulb (28W CFL Square 4-pin 2050lm
GR10q)
still not work after pressing Test & Reset?)

New problem now is that when trying to replace the fuse & cradle back
into
the slot, the fragile cradle snapped in two, so I now have a u/s RCD...

So need to:
(1) Take new bulb back to local shop to check still works.

(2) See if possible to buy new cradle and get it & fuse back into unit.

(If not posible, would be cheaper to buy new RCD and take out its
fuse cradle, rather than call electrican out to replace whole unit.)

Problem with these 4-pin 'compact fluorescents' is it makes it
difficult to
check that its socket is 'live'...




--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On 08/02/2019 12:58, Maurice wrote:

(If not posible, would be cheaper to buy new RCD and take out its
fuse cradle, rather than call electrican out to replace whole unit.)

And run the risk of doing exactly the same damage to the new fuse
carrier again. Many of these plasticy bits are designed to snap in once
and not come out again without being destroyed - unless the whole unit
is dismantled.

On Fri, 08 Feb 2019 15:01:09 +0000, Mike Clarke wrote:

And run the risk of doing exactly the same damage to the new fuse
carrier again.

My thought also.

Many of these plasticy bits are designed to snap in once
and not come out again without being destroyed - unless the whole unit
is dismantled

Well, I've just taken another look. The unit has a front panel, which
appears to be mounted onto the rear base that contains the cabling
connection.
The fuse-holder seems to be within the front panel, so I'm conjecturing
that if the front panel was taken off and replaced by the equivalent
front
panel of a new identical unit, then that could restore the status quo
without
having to mess with cable connections.

But I wouldn't want to try that without discovering how to cut off power
to
the unit first.
[The cable down into it just disappears up into the roof space. I
suspect it then descends into an adjacent box that has a white wooden lid
screwed down on it, possibly containing the rest of the connections for
the
power sockets in the utitity room. But I still don't know where the power
to that is controlled from.]

Suspect no choice but get the electrician back in..

Regards,
--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On 08/02/2019 16:27, Maurice wrote:

Well, I've just taken another look. The unit has a front panel, which
appears to be mounted onto the rear base that contains the cabling
connection.
The fuse-holder seems to be within the front panel, so I'm conjecturing
that if the front panel was taken off and replaced by the equivalent
front
panel of a new identical unit, then that could restore the status quo
without
having to mess with cable connections.

That sounds like dismantling the unit. I wouldn't like to predict how
many springy bits will fly out when you do that.

Unless you're absolutely sure what you're doing then the only safe thing
is to replace the entire unit.

But I wouldn't want to try that without discovering how to cut off power
to
the unit first.
[The cable down into it just disappears up into the roof space. I
suspect it then descends into an adjacent box that has a white wooden lid
screwed down on it, possibly containing the rest of the connections for
the
power sockets in the utitity room. But I still don't know where the power
to that is controlled from.

Well turning off the main switch on your consumer unit should turn off
power to everything in the house. If for some reason there's more than
one consumer unit then turn them all off

On Fri, 08 Feb 2019 19:01:08 +0000, Mike Clarke wrote:

turning off the main switch on your consumer unit should turn off power
to everything in the house.

Agreed!

Regards,
--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

In article ,
Maurice wrote:
On Fri, 08 Feb 2019 15:01:09 +0000, Mike Clarke wrote:

And run the risk of doing exactly the same damage to the new fuse
carrier again.

My thought also.

Many of these plasticy bits are designed to snap in once
and not come out again without being destroyed - unless the whole unit
is dismantled

Well, I've just taken another look. The unit has a front panel, which
appears to be mounted onto the rear base that contains the cabling
connection.
The fuse-holder seems to be within the front panel, so I'm conjecturing
that if the front panel was taken off and replaced by the equivalent
front
panel of a new identical unit, then that could restore the status quo
without
having to mess with cable connections.

Can I ask why you have an RCD - rather than just a switched FCU - feeding
a light?

--
*Since light travels faster than sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 08 Feb 2019 19:01:08 +0000, Mike Clarke wrote:

hat sounds like dismantling the unit. I wouldn't like to predict how
many springy bits will fly out when you do that.

Well, the unit has a base plate, into which the cables are affixed, and
a front plate that fixes onto the baseplate - rather like our CH
programmer, whose display failed (in the top plate) and I was able to
replace that top plate from a replacement programmer unit, without
touching
the wiring in the base plate.

Well turning off the main switch on your consumer unit should turn off
power to everything in the house. If for some reason there's more than
one consumer unit then turn them all off

Have now found the contact breaker in the main unit that has the
'utility
room' label faintly inscribed as a label. So can isolate the spur RCD.

The mystery is that neither contact breaker (up) nor 3A fuse in spur RCD
were
'off', so why did the replacement light not come on?
I had been assuming one or other must have been off'ed by the old bulb
failing.

WIll try to get new bulb checked out at shop tomorrow.


--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 13:25:47 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Can I ask why you have an RCD - rather than just a switched FCU -
feeding a light?

Because the electrician who installed the utility room electrics believed
even lighting units that are in a room containing water need the
protection to be provided.

Regards,
--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On Fri, 08 Feb 2019 16:27:14 +0000, I wrote:

The unit has a front panel, which
appears to be mounted onto the rear base that contains the cabling
connection.
The fuse-holder seems to be within the front panel, so I'm conjecturing
that if the front panel was taken off and replaced by the equivalent
front panel of a new identical unit, then that could restore the status
quo without having to mess with cable connections.

Sadly, not so, I find. Main unit just fixes onto shell wall baseplate.
Would need to disconnect faulty unit, remove it and connect new unit to
old
wires. I now know exactly how to do that, but will have to get an
electrician
to do it, as at my age (85) I dare not risk the danger of overbalancing
when
reaching up towards unit high on garage wall for the time that would take.

Many thanks for all responses. Much appreciated...
--
/\/\aurice
(Replace "nomail.afraid" by "bcs" to reply by email)

On 10/02/2019 17:32, Maurice wrote:
On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 13:25:47 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Can I ask why you have an RCD - rather than just a switched FCU -
feeding a light?

Because the electrician who installed the utility room electrics believed
even lighting units that are in a room containing water need the
protection to be provided.


Then your electrician is a dick.

Swap the RCD unit for a bog standard unswitched fuse spur.


--
Adam