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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Rant about LED floodlights
I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes.
Dead simple to install and maintain. The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem. Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube...... Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards and its not an easy job as you have to undo the wiring, undo the wall bracket, remove the old light fitting entirely and work in reverse. Even when I use self amalgamating tape to solve the "filling with rainwater" issue, the LED floodlight barely lasts more than a year before the whole thing has to be replaced..... So much for minimising WEEE waste! Rant over! |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
wrote:
I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes. Dead simple to install and maintain. The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem. Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube...... Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! Maybe youre mounting them the wrong way up? A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
On Sunday, 6 January 2019 22:14:49 UTC, wrote:
I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes. Dead simple to install and maintain. The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem. Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube...... Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards and its not an easy job as you have to undo the wiring, undo the wall bracket, remove the old light fitting entirely and work in reverse. Even when I use self amalgamating tape to solve the "filling with rainwater" issue, the LED floodlight barely lasts more than a year before the whole thing has to be replaced..... So much for minimising WEEE waste! Rant over! I've advised people against them but they're more inclined to follow fashion. Use a traditional fitting + led bulb. NT |
#4
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Rant about LED floodlights
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#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
On Sunday, 6 January 2019 23:03:28 UTC, Tim+ wrote:
wrote: I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes. Dead simple to install and maintain. The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem. Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube...... Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! Maybe youre mounting them the wrong way up? A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available. the 500 Watt halogens were replaced with 30 watt LEDs. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#6
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest
mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! Maybe youre mounting them the wrong way up? hardly, there is a single metal casing where the LED array is on the underside and the cable entry hole is on the top side. If I make the cable entry hole at the bottom, the LED array would be pointing up to Heaven! see the following: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-led-f...daylight/665cc You can see the cable entry gland... I have my LED floods pointing downwards to avoid annoying the neighbours but that makes the cable gland face the rains from heaven! A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#7
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
wrote in message ... Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! Maybe youre mounting them the wrong way up? hardly, there is a single metal casing where the LED array is on the underside and the cable entry hole is on the top side. Then its ****ed by design and you should be buying a better designed one. If I make the cable entry hole at the bottom, the LED array would be pointing up to Heaven! see the following: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-led-f...daylight/665cc You can see the cable entry gland... I have my LED floods pointing downwards to avoid annoying the neighbours but that makes the cable gland face the rains from heaven! A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Lonely Psychotic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL
On Mon, 7 Jan 2019 11:20:16 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: hardly, there is a single metal casing where the LED array is on the underside and the cable entry hole is on the top side. Then its ****ed by design ....as much as you are? Unlikely! -- dennis@home to know-it-all Rot Speed: "You really should stop commenting on things you know nothing about." Message-ID: |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
In article ,
wrote: I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes. Dead simple to install and maintain. The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem. Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube...... Unscrew it it's not corroded in place . Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! perhasp you'rv mounted it upside down. All the LED floods I've fitted have tehn cable entry ay tehn bottom -- from KT24 in Surrey, England "I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle |
#11
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
In article ,
wrote: Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. But have you actually had one fail? My tungsten floodlights needed regular lamp changes. The LED replacements none, so far. And the old ones got so hot the bodies could be damaged, so not always possible to open them up to fit a new bulb. So had to replace the entire fitting. -- *Many hamsters only blink one eye at a time * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#12
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
In article ,
wrote: How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available. the 500 Watt halogens were replaced with 30 watt LEDs. Good you're happy with *a lot* less light. ;-) -- *If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#13
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
presented the following explanation :
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-led-f...daylight/665cc You can see the cable entry gland... I have my LED floods pointing downwards to avoid annoying the neighbours but that makes the cable gland face the rains from heaven! Have you used a suitable sized round section flex, to allow the gland to properly seal against it? Did you grease the gland seal to stop ingress? For a fitting outdoors, I always advise to do your best to prevent rain getting in, but to drill a hole in the base of a unit, to ensure any which does get in can drain out. Though I doubt this would be possible with these fittings. |
#14
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
Shouldnt there be a weep hole at the bottom of the light so that condensation water can escape?
BigClive strips a cheap LED floodlight at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFi2dpLmhKI [george] On Sunday, January 6, 2019 at 10:14:49 PM UTC, wrote: I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes. Dead simple to install and maintain. The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem. Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube...... Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards and its not an easy job as you have to undo the wiring, undo the wall bracket, remove the old light fitting entirely and work in reverse. Even when I use self amalgamating tape to solve the "filling with rainwater" issue, the LED floodlight barely lasts more than a year before the whole thing has to be replaced..... So much for minimising WEEE waste! Rant over! |
#15
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
I have 8 of the things scattered around the sides of the house.
Already I have had to replace four due to filling with rain water and replaced four when they either started flashing repeatedly or have gone candlelight dim. You have to replace the whole thing when it's gone dim or starts flashing, it's not possible to replace either the LED driver PSU or the led light array. I now use self amalgamating tape at where the cable enters the cable gland so that particular issue has stopped. But no solution yet to having to replace the whole fitting when they start flashing or go dim. |
#16
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
In article ,
wrote: I have 8 of the things scattered around the sides of the house. Already I have had to replace four due to filling with rain water and replaced four when they either started flashing repeatedly or have gone candlelight dim. You have to replace the whole thing when it's gone dim or starts flashing, it's not possible to replace either the LED driver PSU or the led light array. I now use self amalgamating tape at where the cable enters the cable gland so that particular issue has stopped. But no solution yet to having to replace the whole fitting when they start flashing or go dim. Chances are - like so many such things - the cost of providing spares would exceed that of a complete replacement. If they are filling with rain water, you need to look at how you've installed them. -- *Reality? Is that where the pizza delivery guy comes from? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#17
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , wrote: How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available. the 500 Watt halogens were replaced with 30 watt LEDs. Good you're happy with *a lot* less light. ;-) A bit less, 50 watts should be not far off 500 halogen |
#18
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
On Mon, 07 Jan 2019 11:14:59 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: And the old ones got so hot the bodies could be damaged, so not always possible to open them up to fit a new bulb. So had to replace the entire fitting. The 'bulbs' in the £20 lamps that I used to get from B&Q would fail after about ten years, by which time the steel screw that held the unit together had rusted, so they had to be replaced. About 10 years ago I replaced them with decent units from TLC, compact florescents though but not on enough to justify replacement. |
#19
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
In article ,
FMurtz wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , wrote: How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available. the 500 Watt halogens were replaced with 30 watt LEDs. Good you're happy with *a lot* less light. ;-) A bit less, 50 watts should be not far off 500 halogen Hmm. Doesn't equate with any LEDs here, I'm afraid. -- *Before they invented drawing boards, what did they go back to? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#20
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
On Sunday, 6 January 2019 22:14:49 UTC, wrote:
I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes. Dead simple to install and maintain. The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem. Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube...... Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards and its not an easy job as you have to undo the wiring, undo the wall bracket, remove the old light fitting entirely and work in reverse. Even when I use self amalgamating tape to solve the "filling with rainwater" issue, the LED floodlight barely lasts more than a year before the whole thing has to be replaced..... So much for minimising WEEE waste! Rant over! I bought on in B&Q for about £12 about six months ago. The cable goes in the bottom and the motion sensor is much better than my old halogen one. At that price, I don't mind replacing it when the bulb goes. Jonathan |
#21
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
On 06/01/2019 23:40, wrote:
Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! Maybe youre mounting them the wrong way up? hardly, there is a single metal casing where the LED array is on the underside and the cable entry hole is on the top side. If I make the cable entry hole at the bottom, the LED array would be pointing up to Heaven! see the following: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-led-f...daylight/665cc Screwfix cheap ****. If you pay for a turd you get a turd. -- Adam |
#22
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
ARW wrote:
wrote: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-led-f...daylight/665cc Screwfix cheap ****. If you pay for a turd you get a turd. I'm happy with this one, much better than the chinese crap it replaced http://www.discount-electrical.co.uk/section.php/110785/1/brackenheath-ispotc-led-floodlights-ip65 Screwfix have stopped selling them ... |
#23
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
On Mon, 07 Jan 2019 12:02:50 GMT, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
For a fitting outdoors, I always advise to do your best to prevent rain getting in, but to drill a hole in the base of a unit, to ensure any which does get in can drain out. Though I doubt this would be possible with these fittings. The fitting in question is supposed to be IP65... -- Cheers Dave. |
#24
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
Boyes store in Goole were selling complete halogen pir floodlights including lamp for a fiver last week.
I bought two at that price and fitted them with led conversion lamps which my son gets from an eBay shop. |
#25
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jan 2019 12:02:50 GMT, Harry Bloomfield wrote: For a fitting outdoors, I always advise to do your best to prevent rain getting in, but to drill a hole in the base of a unit, to ensure any which does get in can drain out. Though I doubt this would be possible with these fittings. The fitting in question is supposed to be IP65... Which doesnt negate the need for venting to prevent large pressure changes. The lamps may well have IP65 rated seals, but theyre feck all use when the cooling lamp is actively trying to suck in water sitting above a seal (which is very different to resisting a gentle spray from a hose). Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#26
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
UPDATE:
Today I received a letter from Screwfix regarding these LED floodlights. Apparently they are an electrocution risk if oval cable such as T+E is used and that this should be swapped for ROUND cable or the rubber O ring fails to seal. apparently the manufacturers (LAP) omitted to put this information into the installation leaflet. So that means that people will have to put a water proof junction box on the wall, put a short length of flexible round cable on the light fitting and then use the junction box to connect the ends of the T+E and the round cable together. This could have all been avoided if LAP had put the cable entry point at the bottom of the light fitting, not at the top... Grrrrr |
#27
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Rant about LED floodlights
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#28
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
On Sunday, 6 January 2019 22:14:49 UTC, wrote:
I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes. Dead simple to install and maintain. The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem. Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube...... Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made! Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only. I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker! A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards and its not an easy job as you have to undo the wiring, undo the wall bracket, remove the old light fitting entirely and work in reverse. Even when I use self amalgamating tape to solve the "filling with rainwater" issue, the LED floodlight barely lasts more than a year before the whole thing has to be replaced..... So much for minimising WEEE waste! Rant over! For our house, we bought some wall-mounted lanterns with IR sensors. And fitted BC-based LEDs with a rating of around 3W. The LEDs are replacable, of course. Cable through wall with no likelihood of water ingress even with our heavy rain and strong wind. Used car wax over the outside to help shuck rain and keep clean. Very happy. Perfectly adequate light for the cat, doing the bins, the gate, visitors at front door. |
#29
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Rant about LED floodlights
On Tue, 12 Feb 2019 10:18:53 -0800 (PST), polygonum_on_google wrote:
For our house, we bought some wall-mounted lanterns with IR sensors. And fitted BC-based LEDs with a rating of around 3W. The LEDs are replacable, of course. Cable through wall with no likelihood of water ingress even with our heavy rain and strong wind. Used car wax over the outside to help shuck rain and keep clean. Very happy. Perfectly adequate light for the cat, doing the bins, the gate, visitors at front door. Mine are lanterns with the socket at the top, so the lamp points downwards. Used E27 R63 lamps, 120 deg angle to avoid more than 60 deg throw. (W, 700 lm. They can be seen from level or above, but only as a light on, not as a glare. When the R63s go phut I'll perhaps use 120 deg. GU10s and they'll have even less overspill. It's also very easy to put a 'skirt' on the lamp - or even black marker - to limit direction if needed. -- Peter. The gods will stay away whilst religions hold sway |
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