Lighting circuit question
 

Just picked up a small (10W) LED pir floodlight. The instructions said
that it must not be connected directly to a lighting circuit, but only
via a fused and switched spur. It's designed for external use; I can see
the logic of having an isolator, but is that actually required by the
Wiring Regs?

Lighting circuit question
 

On Tue, 20 Nov 2018 20:44:56 +0000, newshound wrote:

Just picked up a small (10W) LED pir floodlight. The instructions said
that it must not be connected directly to a lighting circuit, but only
via a fused and switched spur. It's designed for external use; I can see
the logic of having an isolator, but is that actually required by the
Wiring Regs?

No.
Manufacturers instructions should be taken into consideration now, rather
than the old wording of 'manufacturers instructions should be followed.'

Lighting circuit question
 

On 20/11/18 20:44, newshound wrote:
Just picked up a small (10W) LED pir floodlight. The instructions said
that it must not be connected directly to a lighting circuit, but only
via a fused and switched spur. It's designed for external use; I can see
the logic of having an isolator, but is that actually required by the
Wiring Regs?

Nothing is required in the Regs in this respect.

Nothing to stop you putting an FCU with a 3A fuse on a lighting circuit,
if that's what it wants - but you have to question what the manufacturer
was thinking...

It's the same with bathroom fans - many are run from 6A lighting circuit
sand many (most) will say "must be fused at 3A" so you end up with an
FCU. Which gets silly if you have the switched lighting input in use -
do you fuse that too?

--
Email does not work

Lighting circuit question
 

On 20/11/2018 20:44, newshound wrote:

Just picked up a small (10W) LED pir floodlight. The instructions said
that it must not be connected directly to a lighting circuit, but only
via a fused and switched spur. It's designed for external use; I can see
the logic of having an isolator, but is that actually required by the
Wiring Regs?

Since it can switch automatically, you must have a means of isolation to
make it safe to work on. The fusing would depend on what rating they
require. If the requirement is adequately met by the circuits protection
then you could argue there is no need for additional fusing.


--
Cheers,

John.

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Lighting circuit question
 

On 21/11/2018 00:33, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/11/2018 20:44, newshound wrote:

Just picked up a small (10W) LED pir floodlight. The instructions said
that it must not be connected directly to a lighting circuit, but only
via a fused and switched spur. It's designed for external use; I can
see the logic of having an isolator, but is that actually required by
the Wiring Regs?

Since it can switch automatically, you must have a means of isolation to
make it safe to work on. The fusing would depend on what rating they
require. If the requirement is adequately met by the circuits protection
then you could argue there is no need for additional fusing.


Thanks, I wondered if that was the logic. Although since it is almost a
black box and the bulb isn't replaceable you might argue that the only
"work" you can do to it is to replace the whole unit. Many of them come
complete with a wire tail. And you wouldn't normally disconnect it from
its isolator without isolating the isolator, would you.

Lighting circuit question
 

On 20/11/2018 22:44, Tim Watts wrote:
On 20/11/18 20:44, newshound wrote:
Just picked up a small (10W) LED pir floodlight. The instructions said
that it must not be connected directly to a lighting circuit, but only
via a fused and switched spur. It's designed for external use; I can
see the logic of having an isolator, but is that actually required by
the Wiring Regs?

Nothing is required in the Regs in this respect.

Nothing to stop you putting an FCU with a 3A fuse on a lighting circuit,
if that's what it wants - but you have to question what the manufacturer
was thinking...

It's the same with bathroom fans - many are run from 6A lighting circuit
sand many (most) will say "must be fused at 3A" so you end up with an
FCU. Which gets silly if you have the switched lighting input in use -
do you fuse that too?



But if it says "must be fused at 3A" then I have to do it or it will
fail an NICEIC inspection.

--
Adam

Lighting circuit question
 

ARW Wrote in message:
On 20/11/2018 22:44, Tim Watts wrote:
On 20/11/18 20:44, newshound wrote:
Just picked up a small (10W) LED pir floodlight. The instructions said
that it must not be connected directly to a lighting circuit, but only
via a fused and switched spur. It's designed for external use; I can
see the logic of having an isolator, but is that actually required by
the Wiring Regs?

Nothing is required in the Regs in this respect.

Nothing to stop you putting an FCU with a 3A fuse on a lighting circuit,
if that's what it wants - but you have to question what the manufacturer
was thinking...

It's the same with bathroom fans - many are run from 6A lighting circuit
sand many (most) will say "must be fused at 3A" so you end up with an
FCU. Which gets silly if you have the switched lighting input in use -
do you fuse that too?



But if it says "must be fused at 3A" then I have to do it or it will
fail an NICEIC inspection.


Sharpie pen?
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Lighting circuit question
 

On 21/11/2018 11:59, newshound wrote:
On 21/11/2018 00:33, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/11/2018 20:44, newshound wrote:

Just picked up a small (10W) LED pir floodlight. The instructions
said that it must not be connected directly to a lighting circuit,
but only via a fused and switched spur. It's designed for external
use; I can see the logic of having an isolator, but is that actually
required by the Wiring Regs?

Since it can switch automatically, you must have a means of isolation
to make it safe to work on. The fusing would depend on what rating
they require. If the requirement is adequately met by the circuits
protection then you could argue there is no need for additional fusing.


Thanks, I wondered if that was the logic. Although since it is almost a
black box and the bulb isn't replaceable you might argue that the only
"work" you can do to it is to replace the whole unit. Many of them come
complete with a wire tail. And you wouldn't normally disconnect it from
its isolator without isolating the isolator, would you.

Still worth having a switch there, especially on stuff outside. Much
easier to check to see if its the thing tripping your RCD or MCB etc,
when you can flip a switch rather than climb a ladder and undo connections.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/