Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta

On 13/11/2018 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta

I'm a very bad welder. I can just about manage to weld 1/16" without
making too much of a mess. BTW it helps to back the thin work with a
thin layer of dry sand held in place by thicker stuff.

Bill

On Tue, 13 Nov 2018 18:19:20 -0000, Chris wrote:

Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta

About 2mm in clean steel using an inverter welder. I can manage 1mm but it
gets a bit messy and needs a lot of grinding. My old oil filled
transformer welder not anywhere near as thin.

I've just got a small argon bottle and a TIG gun, it will do much thinner
but I'm so slow with it, I only managed about 3 linear inches of weld and
got through half the bottle (a refill is £25 IIRC), I think the big
problem was doing it outside where the slightest breeze blows the
shielding gas away, I'm much betyter with oxyacetyline.

AJH

On Tuesday, 13 November 2018 18:19:22 UTC, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta

Car metalwork is no problem, except where it's rusted to thinneess. That's well under 1mm, but I don't know what size.


NT

On 13/11/18 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta


A mate I know could do 2mmm with relative ease (Landrover chassis) but
1mm was tricky if possible at all.

Does it have to be stick? MIG is very easy even for a careful novice to
get a half decent weld on thin metal.

--
Email does not work

Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

3mm or thereabouts.

--
Chris Green
·

"Chris" wrote in message
news
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld
using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible?

That depends on your skill. Everyone told me that the slotted
Dexion square tube was too thin to arc weld, but they were
wrong, if you know what you are doing it arc welds fine;

And similarly, I was shocked speechless at what a complete
and utter obscenity a mate of mine, a farmer, made of the
full rack for his Landrover, using 1" square RHS.

(I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

I learned to weld by doing it, no instruction let alone certification.

So the short story is there is no simple answer to your
question, it depends on how good your welding skills are.

87213 wrote :
That depends on your skill. Everyone told me that the slotted
Dexion square tube was too thin to arc weld, but they were
wrong, if you know what you are doing it arc welds fine;

I have numerous items made from arc welded Dexion, that thickness is
easy. I have welded car chassis members too, but I would never attempt
bodywork panels with an arc welder, it is far to thin.

On Tue, 13 Nov 2018 19:34:47 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

A mate I know could do 2mmm with relative ease (Landrover chassis) but
1mm was tricky if possible at all.

Good to hear!

Does it have to be stick? MIG is very easy even for a careful novice to
get a half decent weld on thin metal.

Yes, I have a MIG right next to the arc welder (on loan if it be needed).
But the question I'm asking is about ARC, not MIG.

On Tue, 13 Nov 2018 11:22:44 -0800, tabbypurr wrote:

Car metalwork is no problem, except where it's rusted to thinneess.
That's well under 1mm, but I don't know what size.

You must be up to code and have all your certificates and whatnot, then.
No way would I attempt anything under 1.6mm with arc and I've been
welding on and off for 40 years. Rusty, thinning car metalwork is
unquestionably a job for MIG or oxy.




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In article ,
wrote:
Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can
satisfactorily weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes
makes it next to impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served,
fully skilled, coded bloke with all the certification; just an
experienced DIYer.)

ta

Car metalwork is no problem, except where it's rusted to thinneess.
That's well under 1mm, but I don't know what size.

With a stick welder, rather than MIG?

--
*Work is for people who don't know how to fish.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 13/11/2018 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

An experienced DIYer would use MIG for thin steel. Even gas-less is
better than stick.

Stick is ok for 2mm and thicker. 1mm and you're limited to pseudo spot
welds with stick but a dream with MIG.

On 13/11/2018 19:34, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/11/18 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta


A mate I know could do 2mmm with relative ease (Landrover chassis) but
1mm was tricky if possible at all.

Does it have to be stick? MIG is very easy even for a careful novice to
get a half decent weld on thin metal.


I can't do thin stuff with MIG, I end up squirting a length of wire
through the hole that I've just made. I do much better with an inverter
and rods. (This is the little £90 chinese unit from Lidl).

On 13/11/2018 20:43, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
87213 wrote :
That depends on your skill. Everyone told me that the slotted
Dexion square tube was too thin to arc weld, but they were
wrong, if you know what you are doing it arc welds fine;

I have numerous items made from arc welded Dexion, that thickness is
easy. I have welded car chassis members too, but I would never attempt
bodywork panels with an arc welder, it is far to thin.

I reckin dexion is fine with an inverter arc (and suitable rods), also
the similar thickness inch square frame stuff. Wouldn't touch bodywork
though.

"Fredxx" wrote in message
news
On 13/11/2018 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

An experienced DIYer would use MIG for thin steel. Even gas-less is better
than stick.

Stick is ok for 2mm and thicker.

1mm and you're limited to pseudo spot welds with stick

Bull****.

but a dream with MIG.

On Tuesday, 13 November 2018 19:34:52 UTC, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/11/18 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta


A mate I know could do 2mmm with relative ease (Landrover chassis) but
1mm was tricky if possible at all.

Does it have to be stick? MIG is very easy even for a careful novice to
get a half decent weld on thin metal.

Metal thickness depends a lot on arc current, a lot of arc welders just don't go very low. And skill. And what joint you're trying to make etc.


NT

On Wed, 14 Nov 2018 09:13:54 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:

Stick is ok for 2mm and thicker.

1mm and you're limited to pseudo spot welds with stick

Bull****.

Troll****!

--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rot:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID:

On 13/11/18 21:48, newshound wrote:
On 13/11/2018 19:34, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/11/18 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can
satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled,
coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta


A mate I know could do 2mmm with relative ease (Landrover chassis) but
1mm was tricky if possible at all.

Does it have to be stick? MIG is very easy even for a careful novice
to get a half decent weld on thin metal.


I can't do thin stuff with MIG, I end up squirting a length of wire
through the hole that I've just made. I do much better with an inverter
and rods. (This is the little £90 chinese unit from Lidl).

It's also dependent on the MIG machine. Me and another mate co purchased
a Cebora MIG - not expensive, but used real CO2 gas (not gasless) and it
was a joy to use. I taught myself and I could get some pretty nice weld
beads on 1-2mm metal. I successfully welded up my mum's disability
scooter (3-4mm metal) too with careful grinding to a bevel and multiple
passes).

Smooth wire feed seems to be the key, followed by a good range of
current control.

--
Email does not work

On 13/11/2018 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta

Stick? Prolly 1/4" :-)

maybe someone out there can do down to 2mm but I cant.

Seriously, if its thin consider brazing with a blowlamp



--
All political activity makes complete sense once the proposition that
all government is basically a self-legalising protection racket, is
fully understood.

On 13/11/2018 20:55, Chris wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2018 19:34:47 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:

A mate I know could do 2mmm with relative ease (Landrover chassis) but
1mm was tricky if possible at all.

Good to hear!

Does it have to be stick? MIG is very easy even for a careful novice to
get a half decent weld on thin metal.

Yes, I have a MIG right next to the arc welder (on loan if it be needed).
But the question I'm asking is about ARC, not MIG.


MIG is ARC.


To avoid ambiguity say 'stick'


--
Labour - a bunch of rich people convincing poor people to vote for rich
people
by telling poor people that "other" rich people are the reason they are
poor.

Peter Thompson

We had a woman working at our place who on the day of her retirement announced she had spent the war years welding Churchill tanks so we brought her down to the workshop to have a go on "Ol' Sparky" . It was like a duck to water as if she had only stopped the day before, if only I knew of her before especially when I looked at my miserable efforts.

Richard

On 13/11/2018 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

Depends a bit on the technology of the welder IME. With my crap AC buzz
box, and crap welding skills, I can probably get down to about 1 to
1.5mm - but that usually requires doing some fast "build up" passes
first before being able to make any sensible stab at it. A better
inverter unit might be easier.

MIG/MAG is usually much easier for thinner stuff. TIG will do really
delicate stuff (although more slowly).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 14/11/2018 09:04, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 13/11/2018 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta

Stick? Prolly 1/4" :-)

maybe someone out there can do down to 2mm but I cant.

Seriously, if its thin consider brazing with a blowlamp



+1, I always silver solder if I want good integrity on finer stuff (not
necessarily just sheet). A set of vermiculite blocks to make up little
"brazing hearths" is very useful. You only need a propane torch
especially with the lower melting point silver solders.

newshound wrote:
On 13/11/2018 19:34, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/11/18 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled, coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta


A mate I know could do 2mmm with relative ease (Landrover chassis) but
1mm was tricky if possible at all.

Does it have to be stick? MIG is very easy even for a careful novice to
get a half decent weld on thin metal.


I can't do thin stuff with MIG, I end up squirting a length of wire
through the hole that I've just made. I do much better with an inverter
and rods. (This is the little £90 chinese unit from Lidl).

I think we're clones, not only do you have horses but your welding is
like mine too! :-)

--
Chris Green
·

Tim Watts Wrote in message:
On 13/11/18 21:48, newshound wrote:
On 13/11/2018 19:34, Tim Watts wrote:
On 13/11/18 18:19, Chris wrote:
Hi all,

Realistically, what is the thinnest gauge of steel one can
satisfactorily
weld using an arc (stick) welder before blowing holes makes it next to
impossible? (I'm not talking about some time-served, fully skilled,
coded
bloke with all the certification; just an experienced DIYer.)

ta


A mate I know could do 2mmm with relative ease (Landrover chassis) but
1mm was tricky if possible at all.

Does it have to be stick? MIG is very easy even for a careful novice
to get a half decent weld on thin metal.


I can't do thin stuff with MIG, I end up squirting a length of wire
through the hole that I've just made. I do much better with an inverter
and rods. (This is the little £90 chinese unit from Lidl).

It's also dependent on the MIG machine. Me and another mate co purchased
a Cebora MIG - not expensive, but used real CO2 gas (not gasless) and it
was a joy to use. I taught myself and I could get some pretty nice weld
beads on 1-2mm metal. I successfully welded up my mum's disability
scooter (3-4mm metal) too with careful grinding to a bevel and multiple
passes).

Smooth wire feed seems to be the key, followed by a good range of
current control.


+1
I still have a pub co2 cylinder knocking about (shhh :-) ). Made
loads of railings & Juliette balconies , ornate gates
etc.

Wish I'd spent more on the machine, **** wire feed is the main
issue for it... the list is longer.. Draper - say no
more...
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Wed, 14 Nov 2018 02:15:10 -0800, Tricky Dicky wrote:

We had a woman working at our place who on the day of her retirement
announced she had spent the war years welding Churchill tanks so we
brought her down to the workshop to have a go on "Ol' Sparky" . It was
like a duck to water as if she had only stopped the day before, if only
I knew of her before especially when I looked at my miserable efforts.

Remarkable. I *always* find if I've not picked up an electrode for 18
months or more I have to waste at least a dozen or so rods getting the
feel for it again. And it's always the same two mistakes I initially
make: making a pass too quickly and not tucking the rod in sufficiently.
Clearly she's a natural born welder; I'm not! (I normally get the current
right straight from the get-go within 5A either way though).




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On Wed, 14 Nov 2018 14:26:59 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

MIG/MAG is usually much easier for thinner stuff. TIG will do really
delicate stuff (although more slowly).

MAG??
Trouble with TIG is the work piece has to be *super-clean* for some
reason, so it's a drag to prepare.




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protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

On Tue, 13 Nov 2018 21:48:15 +0000
newshound wrote:

I can't do thin stuff with MIG, I end up squirting a length of wire
through the hole that I've just made. I do much better with an
inverter and rods. (This is the little £90 chinese unit from Lidl).

When you're working near the limit with MIG you can pulse it rather
than applying continuous power, but that can result in a discontinuous
weld or poor penetration. Button welds (spot welds made with a MIG)
can be a useful technique if you don't need a continuous seam.

On Thursday, 15 November 2018 03:27:48 UTC, Rob Morley wrote:
On Tue, 13 Nov 2018 21:48:15 +0000
newshound wrote:

I can't do thin stuff with MIG, I end up squirting a length of wire
through the hole that I've just made. I do much better with an
inverter and rods. (This is the little £90 chinese unit from Lidl)..

When you're working near the limit with MIG you can pulse it rather
than applying continuous power, but that can result in a discontinuous
weld or poor penetration. Button welds (spot welds made with a MIG)
can be a useful technique if you don't need a continuous seam.

there's also the bitumen & coal dust trick to get 'continuous' welds.

On 15/11/2018 00:56, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Wed, 14 Nov 2018 14:26:59 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

MIG/MAG is usually much easier for thinner stuff. TIG will do really
delicate stuff (although more slowly).

MAG??

Most wire fed gas shield welding on steel uses CO2 as a primary
shielding gas rather than pure Argon or Helium. CO2 is classed as an
"Active" rather than an "Inert" gas, hence MAG rather than MIG.

Trouble with TIG is the work piece has to be *super-clean* for some
reason, so it's a drag to prepare.

Yup, the more refined the process, the cleaner it needs to be usually.
If you want to weld through a load of rust and crap, there is not much
to beat stick!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 12:45:04 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Most wire fed gas shield welding on steel uses CO2 as a primary
shielding gas rather than pure Argon or Helium. CO2 is classed as an
"Active" rather than an "Inert" gas, hence MAG rather than MIG.

Kind of struggling here to work out what use *any* non-inert gas would be
in a welding process. The very last thing you want is oxidisation!

Yup, the more refined the process, the cleaner it needs to be usually.
If you want to weld through a load of rust and crap, there is not much
to beat stick!

True! Stick plasma blasts the living **** out of *every* contaminant
known to man.



--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
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protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

On 15/11/2018 21:35, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 12:45:04 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Most wire fed gas shield welding on steel uses CO2 as a primary
shielding gas rather than pure Argon or Helium. CO2 is classed as an
"Active" rather than an "Inert" gas, hence MAG rather than MIG.

Kind of struggling here to work out what use *any* non-inert gas would be
in a welding process. The very last thing you want is oxidisation!

It's normally for arc stability. It is normal to add a small amount of
CO2 to argon as pure argon has poor arc stability. O2/argon mixes are
for stability. Though only a couple of % of O2 is needed.

http://www.boc-gas.com.au/en/images/...351-411245.pdf

Yup, the more refined the process, the cleaner it needs to be usually.
If you want to weld through a load of rust and crap, there is not much
to beat stick!

True! Stick plasma blasts the living **** out of *every* contaminant
known to man.

Never really got on well with stick welding. MIG at high currents can
also weld through some surface coatings.

Fredxx Wrote in message:
On 15/11/2018 21:35, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 12:45:04 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Most wire fed gas shield welding on steel uses CO2 as a primary
shielding gas rather than pure Argon or Helium. CO2 is classed as an
"Active" rather than an "Inert" gas, hence MAG rather than MIG.

Kind of struggling here to work out what use *any* non-inert gas would be
in a welding process. The very last thing you want is oxidisation!

It's normally for arc stability. It is normal to add a small amount of
CO2 to argon as pure argon has poor arc stability. O2/argon mixes are
for stability. Though only a couple of % of O2 is needed.

http://www.boc-gas.com.au/en/images/...351-411245.pdf

Yup, the more refined the process, the cleaner it needs to be usually.
If you want to weld through a load of rust and crap, there is not much
to beat stick!

True! Stick plasma blasts the living **** out of *every* contaminant
known to man.

Never really got on well with stick welding. MIG at high currents can
also weld through some surface coatings.


Like weld through primer :-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 23:20:25 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

On 15/11/2018 21:35, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 12:45:04 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Most wire fed gas shield welding on steel uses CO2 as a primary
shielding gas rather than pure Argon or Helium. CO2 is classed as an
"Active" rather than an "Inert" gas, hence MAG rather than MIG.

Kind of struggling here to work out what use *any* non-inert gas would be
in a welding process. The very last thing you want is oxidisation!

It's normally for arc stability. It is normal to add a small amount of
CO2 to argon as pure argon has poor arc stability. O2/argon mixes are
for stability. Though only a couple of % of O2 is needed.

For MIG welding CO2 also aids penetration so mixes for thin material only have
around 5% CO2, those for thicker material around 20%

Argon mixes with CO2, even at the 5% level are for all practical purposes
incompatible with that required for TIG processes. But you can MIG weld with
pure argon, and some claim 100% CO2 works too.

What is very clear is not all ARC welding processes are the same, even with the
same base material.

--

On 15/11/2018 12:45, John Rumm wrote:
If you want to weld through a load of rust and crap, there is not much
to beat stick!

Oxy acetylene reduces rust back to iron.


--
Climate Change: Socialism wearing a lab coat.

On 16/11/2018 10:50, The Other Mike wrote:
On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 23:20:25 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

On 15/11/2018 21:35, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 12:45:04 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Most wire fed gas shield welding on steel uses CO2 as a primary
shielding gas rather than pure Argon or Helium. CO2 is classed as an
"Active" rather than an "Inert" gas, hence MAG rather than MIG.

Kind of struggling here to work out what use *any* non-inert gas would be
in a welding process. The very last thing you want is oxidisation!

It's normally for arc stability. It is normal to add a small amount of
CO2 to argon as pure argon has poor arc stability. O2/argon mixes are
for stability. Though only a couple of % of O2 is needed.

For MIG welding CO2 also aids penetration so mixes for thin material only have
around 5% CO2, those for thicker material around 20%

Argon mixes with CO2, even at the 5% level are for all practical purposes
incompatible with that required for TIG processes. But you can MIG weld with
pure argon, and some claim 100% CO2 works too.

The advantage of pure CO2 (i.e. pub gas) is that is cheep. I am told,
you get good penetration, easy arc start (but less stability). Also more
spatter and less pretty welds.

What is very clear is not all ARC welding processes are the same, even with the
same base material.

IIUC, even the choice of filler metal can impact on the ideal shielding
gas mix.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 16/11/2018 10:50, The Other Mike wrote:
On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 23:20:25 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

On 15/11/2018 21:35, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 12:45:04 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Most wire fed gas shield welding on steel uses CO2 as a primary
shielding gas rather than pure Argon or Helium. CO2 is classed as an
"Active" rather than an "Inert" gas, hence MAG rather than MIG.

Kind of struggling here to work out what use *any* non-inert gas would be
in a welding process. The very last thing you want is oxidisation!

It's normally for arc stability. It is normal to add a small amount of
CO2 to argon as pure argon has poor arc stability. O2/argon mixes are
for stability. Though only a couple of % of O2 is needed.

For MIG welding CO2 also aids penetration so mixes for thin material only have
around 5% CO2, those for thicker material around 20%

Argon mixes with CO2, even at the 5% level are for all practical purposes
incompatible with that required for TIG processes.

The tungsten electrode is eroded more quickly in a CO2/Ar mix. I suspect
the arc is otherwise fine although may give more heat penetration as per
MIG welding.

But you can MIG weld with
pure argon, and some claim 100% CO2 works too.

There is little point in using pure argon, the arc is not so stable and
is more expensive. Many people do indeed use pure CO2, but more spatter
and more depth.

What is very clear is not all ARC welding processes are the same, even with the
same base material.

Agreed.

On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 23:20:25 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

It's normally for arc stability. It is normal to add a small amount of
CO2 to argon as pure argon has poor arc stability. O2/argon mixes are
for stability. Though only a couple of % of O2 is needed.


Is there any subject on earth you actually *don't* know anything about?
Just curious....


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On 18/11/2018 20:52, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Thu, 15 Nov 2018 23:20:25 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

It's normally for arc stability. It is normal to add a small amount of
CO2 to argon as pure argon has poor arc stability. O2/argon mixes are
for stability. Though only a couple of % of O2 is needed.


Is there any subject on earth you actually *don't* know anything about?
Just curious....

I have done quite a bit of welding, consuming a few reels of wire, so
have done my homework.

For the last 10 years I only welded sporadically and so could only
justify gasless wire. It's not ideal but is affordable and saves on bottles.

More recently I have bought a bottle rent-free which I can fill when I
want. Its a Argon/CO2 mix 95/5 for use with thinner steel with a less
thermally conductive shielding gas, for least distortion.

I originally did stick welding, where I would do 'spots' on thin
material. A MIG is a dream to use and haven't looked back since.

On Sun, 18 Nov 2018 22:53:34 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

I originally did stick welding, where I would do 'spots' on thin
material. A MIG is a dream to use and haven't looked back since.

MIG is no doubt the most user-friendly welding method of the lot. Very
little skill required and most of that to do with just getting the set-up
right.

But you can't beat stick for heavy plate IMO; assuming you have a proper
oil-cooled job like an Olympia or Oxford and not some Chinese "inverter-
turbo" ******** contraption.



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