I don't have a lathe or access to one, but I do have a drill press. Is it possible to do some knurling that way using a scissors knurler held in a drill press vice? Something like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medium-Cl...IAAOSwYL9Z1SCi

Material would be copper rod, 12mm diameter. The idea is to make a safety razor handle.

On Sunday, 16 September 2018 13:12:58 UTC+1, Eusebius wrote:
I don't have a lathe or access to one, but I do have a drill press. Is it possible to do some knurling that way using a scissors knurler held in a drill press vice? Something like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medium-Cl...IAAOSwYL9Z1SCi

Material would be copper rod, 12mm diameter. The idea is to make a safety razor handle.

I don't see a reason not to. I doubt I'd bother with the knurling.


NT

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 05:12:57 -0700, Eusebius wrote:

Material would be copper rod, 12mm diameter. The idea is to make a
safety razor handle.

It's gonna chew the copper to bits, isn't it? Due to the high speed, I
mean. You'd need to gear it down *massively* for that idea to stand any
chance of success.



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On 16/09/2018 13:12, Eusebius wrote:
I don't have a lathe or access to one, but I do have a drill press. Is it possible to do some knurling that way using a scissors knurler held in a drill press vice? Something like this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medium-Cl...IAAOSwYL9Z1SCi

Material would be copper rod, 12mm diameter. The idea is to make a safety razor handle.


The problem with doing much more than drilling in a drill press is that
side load on the morse taper will make the chuck walk out of the socket.
Also, I'd be surprised if a drill press will go slow enough for
knurling. How do you plan to get the controlled movement along the thing
you want to knurl?

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 15:21:29 +0100, nothanks wrote:

The problem with doing much more than drilling in a drill press is that
side load on the morse taper will make the chuck walk out of the socket.

I guess you could get around the severe radial loading by clamping the
knurling rollers 180' apart so the work piece is in the middle of them.
But the idea is a bit of a non-starter for other reasons.



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Thanks for all the feedback so far. My drill press is a Rexon 200A. Trying to find instructions for it. Doesn't seem like it turns very fast.

My understanding is that if you use a scissors knurler it doesn't put any lateral pressure on the bearings - that happens when you use the other kind of knurler which pushes towards the part.

Is anybody familiar with using these scissors knurlers that are fairly cheap on eBay?

On 16/09/2018 15:38, Eusebius wrote:
Thanks for all the feedback so far. My drill press is a Rexon 200A. Trying to find instructions for it. Doesn't seem like it turns very fast.

My understanding is that if you use a scissors knurler it doesn't put any lateral pressure on the bearings - that happens when you use the other kind of knurler which pushes towards the part...

This is the only type of knurler that doesn't produce any lateral force:

http://www.accu-trak.com/holders_3die.html


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Colin Bignell

This is the only type of knurler that doesn't produce any lateral force:

http://www.accu-trak.com/holders_3die.html
Colin Bignell

Thanks. It's still true though that the scissors type is preferable? It's supposed to be aligned directly above the part.

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 14:38:07 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 15:21:29 +0100, nothanks wrote:

The problem with doing much more than drilling in a drill press is that
side load on the morse taper will make the chuck walk out of the socket.

I guess you could get around the severe radial loading by clamping the
knurling rollers 180' apart so the work piece is in the middle of them.

No 'work around' needed as I think you will find that's the point of
the knurling tool the OP referenced in his first post.

But the idea is a bit of a non-starter for other reasons.

It is?

He's knurling brass and so as long as he is happy to make sure
everything is well lubricated and in one place and the drill on it's
slowest speed I see no reason why it wouldn't work (if not ideal).

Cheers, T i m

On 16/09/2018 19:23, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 14:38:07 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 15:21:29 +0100, nothanks wrote:

The problem with doing much more than drilling in a drill press is that
side load on the morse taper will make the chuck walk out of the socket.

I guess you could get around the severe radial loading by clamping the
knurling rollers 180' apart so the work piece is in the middle of them.

No 'work around' needed as I think you will find that's the point of
the knurling tool the OP referenced in his first post....

They are normally used with the wheels about 120 degrees apart.


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Colin Bignell

On 16/09/2018 18:10, Eusebius wrote:
This is the only type of knurler that doesn't produce any lateral force:

http://www.accu-trak.com/holders_3die.html


Thanks. It's still true though that the scissors type is preferable? It's supposed to be aligned directly above the part.


If you want a diamond knurl, there are the tool to use. If you want a
straight knurl, it can be difficult to get the two wheels in
registration, especially on a soft material, which risks a poor quality
knurl.




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Colin Bignell

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 19:31:00 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

On 16/09/2018 19:23, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 14:38:07 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 15:21:29 +0100, nothanks wrote:

The problem with doing much more than drilling in a drill press is that
side load on the morse taper will make the chuck walk out of the socket.

I guess you could get around the severe radial loading by clamping the
knurling rollers 180' apart so the work piece is in the middle of them.

No 'work around' needed as I think you will find that's the point of
the knurling tool the OP referenced in his first post....

They are normally used with the wheels about 120 degrees apart.

I think the scissor type might be but these?

Cheers, T i m

On 16/09/2018 20:07, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 19:31:00 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

On 16/09/2018 19:23, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 14:38:07 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 15:21:29 +0100, nothanks wrote:

The problem with doing much more than drilling in a drill press is that
side load on the morse taper will make the chuck walk out of the socket.

I guess you could get around the severe radial loading by clamping the
knurling rollers 180' apart so the work piece is in the middle of them.

No 'work around' needed as I think you will find that's the point of
the knurling tool the OP referenced in his first post....

They are normally used with the wheels about 120 degrees apart.

I think the scissor type might be but these?

I would still use them that way, as I doubt you would get enough
pressure to make a good knurl from the clamping screw alone.


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Colin Bignell