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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view some old
35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up into
moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and no lionger
can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any ideas?
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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

Well the screws, are they just self tapped or were there bushes in the
plastic. If the latter then araldite works well, unless the actual plastic
top has become super brittle in which case it is a bigger problem and thus
possibly unfixable unless you can fabricate a cover from some other
substance.
I had this with the bottom half of a multimeter many years ago, of course
the maker was out of business, so in the end I made one out of bits of
hardboard and those plastic corner bits all glued together. Looked a bit odd
though I have to say, Luckily the battery compartment was not of the same
crap plastic.

Brian

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"DerbyBorn" wrote in message
2.222...
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view some old
35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up into
moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and no lionger
can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any ideas?



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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view some old
35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up into
moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and no lionger
can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any ideas?


Duct tape.

Tim

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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

On 23/04/18 15:12, DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view some old
35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up into
moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and no lionger
can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any ideas?

How neat and tidy do you want it? Do you expect to use it again and
again. I'd drill out the plastic and either use Rivnuts if practical or
Araldite-in threaded inserts otherwise if I wanted a proper job.
Otherwise Tim's duct tape....

Nick
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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

Nick Odell wrote in
news
On 23/04/18 15:12, DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view
some old 35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up
into moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and
no lionger can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any
ideas?

How neat and tidy do you want it? Do you expect to use it again and
again. I'd drill out the plastic and either use Rivnuts if practical
or Araldite-in threaded inserts otherwise if I wanted a proper job.
Otherwise Tim's duct tape....

Nick


I have just bought some long cable ties and have joined them to keep one
side together - I remembered my hot glue gun for the other side where a tie
would get in the way of the carousel.

Who knows - I may never use it again - I was sorting through about 2000
slides - and have taken screen shots of those that interested me (worked
well enough and faster than scanning)



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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

On 23/04/2018 15:12, DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view some old
35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up into
moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and no lionger
can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any ideas?



Try and find some tube which fits over the pillars, even plastic. Apply
a filler type glue- epoxy or car body filler and slide tubes into place.
Leave to set. Drill small pilot holes and, with luck, the screws will
'cut' a new thread. The grey 'isopon' stuff works well. For tubes, I try
to find old pen bodies, caps etc.

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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

Brian Reay used his keyboard to write :
For tubes, I try to find old pen bodies, caps etc.


Small bore copper or alloy pipe works too. I managed a similar repair
using some scrap alloy pipe removed from the burners of a gas hob. It
looked useful, so I removed the alloy pipes before putting it out for
scrap when I installed a new hob. Cut the tube to the original height
of the plastic, line tube with body filler, push on to what is
remaining of the plastic, then top up the end with body filler. Once
set, you can drill a pilot hole.
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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

Brian Reay wrote in news
On 23/04/2018 15:12, DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view
some old 35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up
into moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and
no lionger can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any
ideas?



Try and find some tube which fits over the pillars, even plastic.
Apply a filler type glue- epoxy or car body filler and slide tubes
into place. Leave to set. Drill small pilot holes and, with luck, the
screws will 'cut' a new thread. The grey 'isopon' stuff works well.
For tubes, I try to find old pen bodies, caps etc.


Sounds good. I have made a bodge for now - but your method soulds great. I
guess it is down to having screws that started to make a new thread rather
than engaging on previous threads.
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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

On 23/04/2018 16:07, Tim+ wrote:
DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view some old
35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up into
moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and no lionger
can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any ideas?


Duct tape.

Tim

No, PVC electrical tape stretched slightly before fitting. Either around
the seam, or a few strips perpendicular to it.
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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

On 23/04/2018 19:01, DerbyBorn wrote:
Brian Reay wrote in news
On 23/04/2018 15:12, DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view
some old 35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up
into moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and
no lionger can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any
ideas?



Try and find some tube which fits over the pillars, even plastic.
Apply a filler type glue- epoxy or car body filler and slide tubes
into place. Leave to set. Drill small pilot holes and, with luck, the
screws will 'cut' a new thread. The grey 'isopon' stuff works well.
For tubes, I try to find old pen bodies, caps etc.


Sounds good. I have made a bodge for now - but your method soulds great. I
guess it is down to having screws that started to make a new thread rather
than engaging on previous threads.

If the pillars have split, can they be ty-wrapped together so that the
screw will fit the thread again? Pillars are often conical to aid
ejection from the mould, so tubing won't slide over the whole length.
Actually tubing over the top end of the pillars would be better than
ty-wraps.
--
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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

newshound wrote:
On 23/04/2018 16:07, Tim+ wrote:
DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view some old
35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up into
moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and no lionger
can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any ideas?


Duct tape.

Tim

No, PVC electrical tape stretched slightly before fitting. Either around
the seam, or a few strips perpendicular to it.


Why not duct tape? I taped my mothers tumbler air drier to the top of her
washing machine about 10 years ago. Tape still doing its job just fine
despite the best efforts of the washing machine to shake it off.

In my experience PVC tape when stretched has a habit of contracting again
and exposes sticky residues.

Tim

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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

newshound wrote in
:

On 23/04/2018 16:07, Tim+ wrote:
DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view
some old 35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up
into moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and
no lionger can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any
ideas?


Duct tape.

Tim

No, PVC electrical tape stretched slightly before fitting. Either
around the seam, or a few strips perpendicular to it.


It doesn't stick well to the "grained" plastic.
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Default Repairing old Slide Projector

On 23/04/2018 19:01, DerbyBorn wrote:
Brian Reay wrote in news
On 23/04/2018 15:12, DerbyBorn wrote:
I have just had my old Hanimex 1500RF slide projector out to view
some old 35mm slides and had to fix it.
The top casing is held onto the base by about 6 screws that screw up
into moulded pillars in the top casing. Most of these have split and
no lionger can accept a screw.

I am left wondering how to keep the top attached to the bottom. Any
ideas?



Try and find some tube which fits over the pillars, even plastic.
Apply a filler type glue- epoxy or car body filler and slide tubes
into place. Leave to set. Drill small pilot holes and, with luck, the
screws will 'cut' a new thread. The grey 'isopon' stuff works well.
For tubes, I try to find old pen bodies, caps etc.


Sounds good. I have made a bodge for now - but your method soulds great. I
guess it is down to having screws that started to make a new thread rather
than engaging on previous threads.


I've used it a few times- it needs 'free standing' pillars which you can
get the tube around. The beauty is, the adhesive doesn't need to 'stick'
to the plastic that well.

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