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Default Multi Tool suitability for electrical back box installation

On Mon, 19 Feb 2018 23:05:06 +0000 (GMT)
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

To just chase into plaster a decent chisel is usually enough.

In old plaster a craft knife is often enough to make a nice neat job
of it.

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Default Multi Tool suitability for electrical back box installation

On 20/02/2018 16:48, alan_m wrote:
On 20/02/2018 09:19, John Rumm wrote:

screws. If there is too much "irregularity", then mix up so
(preferably old) bonding plaster, slap it in the back of the hole, and
bed the box into it.


A trick I learnt some time back. Old plaster is no good for plastering
but it goes off in minutes so if you mix it quickly in an recycled
yogurt pot apply it to the back of the hole and then bed in the back-box
it will remain firmly in place within 5 minutes.

However it's not worth keeping your left over half sack of plaster just
in case it comes useful in the year to come.


I think last time I had a half sack of bonding spare, I filled a spare
10L container with a snap on lid... ideal for such uses now.


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Default Multi Tool suitability for electrical back box installation

On 20/02/2018 13:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:


Vortex13 wrote:

I will however obtain a so-called "carbide" cutter

I've never seen one.


There are various carbide and diamond blades, e.g.


http://www.antlerblades.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=carbide


http://www.antlerblades.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=diamond


Fine for a bit of tile shaping, but still not for chopping out half a
brick.


Yes- that's the sort of thing I've got here. But would be painfully slow
cutting brick and would soon overheat. Not sure they'd cut deep enough
either.


Yup, not mass demolition or excavation tools, but they are great for
cutting holes through hard stuff like tiles, glass, cast iron etc. e.g:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...ve_(retrofi t)



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John.

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Default Multi Tool suitability for electrical back box installation

James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Tue, 20 Feb 2018 00:06:21 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article ,
James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Mon, 19 Feb 2018 23:06:05 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:


In article ,
James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
A multitool will cut without the sharp bits on the blade. The
heat generated and the motion made will destroy what's in it's
path.

Not really surprising you live in a house made out of ticky-tacky.


The sharp pointy bits on a blade on a multitool last for about 10
seconds. Do you really replace it that often?


Best to use a decent tenon saw to cut the bricks with, then. And a
nice sharp wood chisel to get the corners square.


Why? The multitool works fine. You don't need the blade to be sharp
to go through stone.


Prick.


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Default Multi Tool suitability for electrical back box installation

James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Tue, 20 Feb 2018 00:06:21 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:
In article ,
James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Mon, 19 Feb 2018 23:06:05 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:


In article ,
James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
A multitool will cut without the sharp bits on the blade. The
heat generated and the motion made will destroy what's in it's
path.

Not really surprising you live in a house made out of ticky-tacky.


The sharp pointy bits on a blade on a multitool last for about 10
seconds. Do you really replace it that often?


Best to use a decent tenon saw to cut the bricks with, then. And a
nice sharp wood chisel to get the corners square.


Why? The multitool works fine. You don't need the blade to be sharp
to go through stone


We heard you the first time.
Prick.




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Default Multi Tool suitability for electrical back box installation

When putting in additional sockets behind the TV unit I used a multitool with curved carbide blade to good effect. I was installing sockets either side of the wall and wanted to limit the replastering to one side only. Behind the TV unit I needed three double sockets plate to plate in a row. The three back boxes were held in line by riveting some straps to the back before setting them in place. I was then able to carve out a neat hole with the multitool which did not require any filling admittedly the block work was the cinder type blocks and was quite easy to grind, scrape & chisel away. I also managed to do the same for a couple more separate back boxes.

Richard
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