Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.
HELP!

wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.
HELP!
They are a slow spiral tough nail. Once in, never(rarely) out! and
certainly not back in again to the same hole.

You "might" be able to dremel a screw driver slot in the domed head and
ease them out by turning at the same time as a pry bar behind the head.
Replace with wall plug and stainless steel screws.
Be prepared for the pipe section to be very heavy.

Good Luck

From what little I remember of our cast iron system, which was replaced
decades ago...

The socketed joints between sections seemed to be sealed by pouring hot
lead in. Brackets were fixed as described by Bob above.

On Wednesday, 20 September 2017 08:25:13 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
From what little I remember of our cast iron system, which was replaced
decades ago...

The socketed joints between sections seemed to be sealed by pouring hot
lead in. Brackets were fixed as described by Bob above.

There is nothing rigid in the joints, they have to be free to allow for expansion.The sockets were filled with gaskin and putty.
Gaskin = asoft rope.
The pipes are suspended from the cast in brackets; it's important sections do not rest on the one below so they can expand.
If you don't do this the pipes will crack.
The original installations were done from the top down to enable this.
It will be an angle grinder job to get the heads off the fixings if they won't prise out.
Once the fitting is off, you can get the remaining shank out with mole grips or a pipe wrench. They are usually hammered into wooden plugs

On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.

They are normally very large nail like fixings that are hammered into a
wood plug that sits in a recess that is chiselled into the wall.
Basically very difficult to remove. I think in the circumstance I would
be looking at ways of getting the wood out via the same route it went in.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , John
Rumm writes
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.

They are normally very large nail like fixings that are hammered into a
wood plug that sits in a recess that is chiselled into the wall.
Basically very difficult to remove. I think in the circumstance I would
be looking at ways of getting the wood out via the same route it went in.

Known as *drive screws* here. Semi hard.

--
Tim Lamb

On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.
HELP!

Is this with a view to separating the "shoe" from the downpipe?


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 20/09/2017 08:57, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.

They are normally very large nail like fixings that are hammered into a
wood plug that sits in a recess that is chiselled into the wall.
Basically very difficult to remove. I think in the circumstance I would
be looking at ways of getting the wood out via the same route it went in.

I was thinking of a drain clearing rod pushed in from below,
particularly as the cast iron pipe won't look right with the domed
fixings removed.

*If successful,* that method may result in a large piece of sodden hard
wood emerging from the top of the pipe and crashing onto the bonce of
the person below. So, maybe, it would be best to get someone up a ladder
to lift it out, once the first bit emerges from the top.

Are you sure you cannot get a tool to get it out through the top?
I'm sur I've seen long tools that clamp to things down pipes in the past.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
wrote in message
...
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood down
one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing the
hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off to
get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was built
(1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the paint and
render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no slot or
other means of undoing the things.
HELP!

On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.
HELP!

As others have said, I'd agree that the fixings are probably hammered
and the easiest way to remove would be to take the head right off with
an angle grinder.

As others have said, the bottom fixing may well be taking a lot of the
weight from stuff above.

Would also add that parts are cast iron, and potentially more brittle
after 80 years of corrosion.

As others have said, the "socket" joints may well be sealed with putty
which will have gone relatively hard. But, even old putty softens when
heated to ~ 200C with a gas torch or hot air gun. You *might* be able to
separate the sockets with a combination of heat and twisting.

Rather than removing the elbow at the bottom, wouldn't it be better to
tackle the next joint up then you can remove the wood in one piece? Also
you will be working at an easier height.

Another approach, if you can find a reasonable match to the bottom
length of pipe in a recycling place, might just be to destroy the bottom
section. This may be harder than you expect: multiple cuts with angle
grinder, then lump hammer and/or crowbar.

Once one section is broken above or below a joint, it is usually
possible with care to remove the remaining pieces without damaging the
"good" part.

On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.
HELP!

Block off the bottom of the pipe and fill the pipe with water. The wood
may float up to the top.

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 20/09/2017 08:54, harry wrote:
On Wednesday, 20 September 2017 08:25:13 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
From what little I remember of our cast iron system, which was replaced
decades ago...

The socketed joints between sections seemed to be sealed by pouring hot
lead in. Brackets were fixed as described by Bob above.

There is nothing rigid in the joints, they have to be free to allow for expansion.The sockets were filled with gaskin and putty.
Gaskin = asoft rope.

The pipes are suspended from the cast in brackets; it's important sections do not rest on the one below so they can expand.
If you don't do this the pipes will crack.
The original installations were done from the top down to enable this.
It will be an angle grinder job to get the heads off the fixings if they won't prise out.
Once the fitting is off, you can get the remaining shank out with mole grips or a pipe wrench. They are usually hammered into wooden plugs



There's an LCC cast iron waste stack 5m from this keyboard that's got
lead joints. And a good few others till in use hereabouts.

I'm not saying lead and oakum was used on all the original rainwater
downpipes, far fewer of which have survived after c.120 years. But I've
certainly seen lead used on some cast iron rainwater pipes.

PS

And the lead's not necessarily poured. Running rope allows horizontal
joints.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

Brian Gaff wrote:

Are you sure you cannot get a tool to get it out through the top?

Fill the downpipe with sodium hydroxide, that ought to eat the wood, but
not the iron :-)

alan_m wrote:

Block off the bottom of the pipe and fill the pipe with water. The wood
may float up to the top.

Get a GBFO LPG torch, play the flame into the 'shoe' the chimney effect
should carry the flames up inside the downpipe, sit back with a beer
then wash the ashes out with a hosepipe!

On 20/09/17 12:57, Andy Burns wrote:
Brian Gaff wrote:

Are you sure you cannot get a tool to get it out through the top?

Fill the downpipe with sodium hydroxide, that ought to eat the wood, but
not the iron :-)

Indeed, if you can pressurise to about 3 bar and heat it up to several
hundred degrees.... it should turn to paper pulp...:-)



--
Microsoft : the best reason to go to Linux that ever existed.

On 20/09/17 13:02, Andy Burns wrote:
alan_m wrote:

Block off the bottom of the pipe and fill the pipe with water. The wood
may float up to the top.

Get a GBFO LPG torch, play the flame into the 'shoe' the chimney effect
should carry the flames up inside the downpipe, sit back with a beer
then wash the ashes out with a hosepipe!


+1 because it involves fire and burning stuff.

--
Theres a mighty big difference between good, sound reasons and reasons
that sound good.

Burton Hillis (William Vaughn, American columnist)

On 20/09/2017 13:11, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 20/09/17 13:02, Andy Burns wrote:
alan_m wrote:

Block off the bottom of the pipe and fill the pipe with water. The wood
may float up to the top.

Get a GBFO LPG torch, play the flame into the 'shoe' the chimney
effect should carry the flames up inside the downpipe, sit back with a
beer then wash the ashes out with a hosepipe!


+1 because it involves fire and burning stuff.


Block off the bottom - fill the pipe with petrol.........

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 20/09/2017 13:48, alan_m wrote:
On 20/09/2017 13:11, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 20/09/17 13:02, Andy Burns wrote:
alan_m wrote:

Block off the bottom of the pipe and fill the pipe with water. The wood
may float up to the top.

Get a GBFO LPG torch, play the flame into the 'shoe' the chimney
effect should carry the flames up inside the downpipe, sit back with
a beer then wash the ashes out with a hosepipe!


+1 because it involves fire and burning stuff.


Block off the bottom - fill the pipe with petrol.........


and film it for the Darwin awards? ;-)

On 20/09/2017 08:25, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
From what little I remember of our cast iron system, which was replaced
decades ago...

The socketed joints between sections seemed to be sealed by pouring hot
lead in. Brackets were fixed as described by Bob above.

Thanks both. More thought needed :-(

On 20/09/2017 10:30, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 08:57, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.

They are normally very large nail like fixings that are hammered into
a wood plug that sits in a recess that is chiselled into the wall.
Basically very difficult to remove. I think in the circumstance I
would be looking at ways of getting the wood out via the same route it
went in.

I was thinking of a drain clearing rod pushed in from below,
particularly as the cast iron pipe won't look right with the domed
fixings removed.

*If successful,* that method may result in a large piece of sodden hard
wood emerging from the top of the pipe and crashing onto the bonce of
the person below. So, maybe, it would be best to get someone up a ladder
to lift it out, once the first bit emerges from the top.


A drain rod would be far too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
I've tried shoving plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15 are
too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

I started using a multi-tool through the shoe opening to cut off 20mm
sections but then realised it was a long piece of wood and would take hours.

On 20/09/2017 10:05, Robin wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe"
off to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it
was built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got
the paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed,
but no slot or other means of undoing the things.
HELP!

Is this with a view to separating the "shoe" from the downpipe?


Yes, but others are making me rethink that idea.

On 20/09/2017 12:20, newshound wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe"
off to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it
was built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got
the paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed,
but no slot or other means of undoing the things.
HELP!

As others have said, I'd agree that the fixings are probably hammered
and the easiest way to remove would be to take the head right off with
an angle grinder.

As others have said, the bottom fixing may well be taking a lot of the
weight from stuff above.

Would also add that parts are cast iron, and potentially more brittle
after 80 years of corrosion.

As others have said, the "socket" joints may well be sealed with putty
which will have gone relatively hard. But, even old putty softens when
heated to ~ 200C with a gas torch or hot air gun. You *might* be able to
separate the sockets with a combination of heat and twisting.

Rather than removing the elbow at the bottom, wouldn't it be better to
tackle the next joint up then you can remove the wood in one piece? Also
you will be working at an easier height.

Another approach, if you can find a reasonable match to the bottom
length of pipe in a recycling place, might just be to destroy the bottom
section. This may be harder than you expect: multiple cuts with angle
grinder, then lump hammer and/or crowbar.

Once one section is broken above or below a joint, it is usually
possible with care to remove the remaining pieces without damaging the
"good" part.

Yes, I'll remove/refit (it needs painting so makes that job easier) or
replace if I can't do it any other way

On 20/09/2017 12:40, alan_m wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe"
off to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it
was built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got
the paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed,
but no slot or other means of undoing the things.
HELP!

Block off the bottom of the pipe and fill the pipe with water. The wood
may float up to the top.


I think there's too much crud around it for that

On 20/09/2017 13:02, Andy Burns wrote:
alan_m wrote:

Block off the bottom of the pipe and fill the pipe with water. The wood
may float up to the top.

Get a GBFO LPG torch, play the flame into the 'shoe' the chimney effect
should carry the flames up inside the downpipe, sit back with a beer
then wash the ashes out with a hosepipe!



Tempting, but that would wreck what paint is on still attached to the
pipe and (probably) accelerate the internal corrosion

On Wednesday, 20 September 2017 14:18:32 UTC+1, wrote:
On 20/09/2017 10:30, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 08:57, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:

Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.

They are normally very large nail like fixings that are hammered into
a wood plug that sits in a recess that is chiselled into the wall.
Basically very difficult to remove. I think in the circumstance I
would be looking at ways of getting the wood out via the same route it
went in.

I was thinking of a drain clearing rod pushed in from below,
particularly as the cast iron pipe won't look right with the domed
fixings removed.

*If successful,* that method may result in a large piece of sodden hard
wood emerging from the top of the pipe and crashing onto the bonce of
the person below. So, maybe, it would be best to get someone up a ladder
to lift it out, once the first bit emerges from the top.


A drain rod would be far too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
I've tried shoving plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15 are
too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

I started using a multi-tool through the shoe opening to cut off 20mm
sections but then realised it was a long piece of wood and would take hours.

It may still be your easiest option. One of those things where you can do a bit when you've got 10 minutes.


NT

On Wednesday, September 20, 2017 at 12:50:38 AM UTC+1, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.
HELP!

Here's how they do it in the states. Wacking in a PVC pan adapter is somewhat easier!

https://youtu.be/AlSNXmZYrdQ?t=6m6s

On 20/09/2017 14:18, wrote:

A drain rod would be far too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
I've tried shoving plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15 are
too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

Maybe stick with the 10mm pipe idea for a minute, and perhaps there's
something you can attach to the end that would keep the pipe more or
less centred and would ride over the joints? Something like a small
water bottle firmly attached with the neck downwards.




I started using a multi-tool through the shoe opening to cut off 20mm
sections but then realised it was a long piece of wood and would take
hours.

No fun in that!

On 20/09/2017 14:23, wrote:
On 20/09/2017 13:02, Andy Burns wrote:
alan_m wrote:

Block off the bottom of the pipe and fill the pipe with water. The wood
may float up to the top.

Get a GBFO LPG torch, play the flame into the 'shoe' the chimney
effect should carry the flames up inside the downpipe, sit back with a
beer then wash the ashes out with a hosepipe!



Tempting, but that would wreck what paint is on still attached to the
pipe and (probably) accelerate the internal corrosion

Best way to get back to raw metal for painting. I wouldn't expect the
corrosion to be significant. The problem is that it will take ages to
dry out the saturated timber.

On 20/09/17 14:18, wrote:
On 20/09/2017 10:30, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 08:57, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:

Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes ....

.... looking at ways of getting the wood out via the same route
it went in.

I was thinking of a drain clearing rod pushed in from below...

.. too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
..plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15 are
too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

I can work a plastic garden hose up mine to stir up any gunge in the
hoppers.

TW

On 20/09/2017 15:28, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 14:18, wrote:

A drain rod would be far too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
I've tried shoving plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15 are
too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

Maybe stick with the 10mm pipe idea for a minute, and perhaps there's
something you can attach to the end that would keep the pipe more or
less centred and would ride over the joints?Â* Something like a small
water bottle firmly attached with the neck downwards.


And the next question here would probably be: "how do I get a small
plastic bottle out of a cast iron downpipe" ;-)


I started using a multi-tool through the shoe opening to cut off 20mm
sections but then realised it was a long piece of wood and would take
hours.

No fun in that!

On 20/09/2017 15:47, TimW wrote:
On 20/09/17 14:18, wrote:
On 20/09/2017 10:30, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 08:57, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:

Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes ....

.... looking at ways of getting the wood out via the same route
it went in.

I was thinking of a drain clearing rod pushed in from below...

.. too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
..plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15 are
too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

I can work a plastic garden hose up mine to stir up any gunge in the
hoppers.

TW

Doh! I hadn't thought of garden hose.

On 20/09/2017 15:13, wrote:
On Wednesday, 20 September 2017 14:18:32 UTC+1, wrote:
On 20/09/2017 10:30, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 08:57, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:

Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.

They are normally very large nail like fixings that are hammered into
a wood plug that sits in a recess that is chiselled into the wall.
Basically very difficult to remove. I think in the circumstance I
would be looking at ways of getting the wood out via the same route it
went in.

I was thinking of a drain clearing rod pushed in from below,
particularly as the cast iron pipe won't look right with the domed
fixings removed.

*If successful,* that method may result in a large piece of sodden hard
wood emerging from the top of the pipe and crashing onto the bonce of
the person below. So, maybe, it would be best to get someone up a ladder
to lift it out, once the first bit emerges from the top.


A drain rod would be far too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
I've tried shoving plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15 are
too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

I started using a multi-tool through the shoe opening to cut off 20mm
sections but then realised it was a long piece of wood and would take hours.

It may still be your easiest option. One of those things where you can do a bit when you've got 10 minutes.


NT

If you could get 10mm pipe right to the top, maybe you could use it to
pull up a piece of string then rope with something big enough to catch
the wood attached to the end.

--
Michael Chare

On 20/09/2017 16:00, wrote:
On 20/09/2017 15:28, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 14:18, wrote:

A drain rod would be far too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
I've tried shoving plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15
are too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

Maybe stick with the 10mm pipe idea for a minute, and perhaps there's
something you can attach to the end that would keep the pipe more or
less centred and would ride over the joints?Â* Something like a small
water bottle firmly attached with the neck downwards.


And the next question here would probably be: "how do I get a small
plastic bottle out of a cast iron downpipe" ;-)

Hence why I said "firmly attached". You bring it down to the shoe, and
if necessary cut it into bits with your multi tool.

It seems to me that you can discourage all suggestions, with a hearty
sneer, or you can use them constructively to sort out what is, after
all, your problem. I can assure you that I have no pieces of hardwood
stuck in my downpipes.

I'm always amazed that people here are so helpful, when the OP only
gives out a tiny fraction of the information about his problem at the
outset.

On 20/09/2017 16:00, wrote:

Doh! I hadn't thought of garden hose.

I used garden hose when I had a blockage in a pipe with a tight bend.
Worked a treat.

On Wednesday, 20 September 2017 16:00:11 UTC+1, wrote:
On 20/09/2017 15:28, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 14:18, wrote:

A drain rod would be far too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
I've tried shoving plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15 are
too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

Maybe stick with the 10mm pipe idea for a minute, and perhaps there's
something you can attach to the end that would keep the pipe more or
less centred and would ride over the joints?Â* Something like a small
water bottle firmly attached with the neck downwards.


And the next question here would probably be: "how do I get a small
plastic bottle out of a cast iron downpipe" ;-)

flame shrinks it.

On 20/09/2017 14:19, wrote:
On 20/09/2017 10:05, Robin wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when
clearing the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom
discharge "shoe" off to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been
touched since it was built (1930s) and I can't work out what the
fixings are. I've got the paint and render off the fixings and the
heads seem to be domed, but no slot or other means of undoing the
things.
HELP!

Is this with a view to separating the "shoe" from the downpipe?


Yes, but others are making me rethink that idea.

Ah, so even after you remove the lead or other sealant you face 80-odd
years of rust

As a variant on some other options, do you have ladder access to the
top? If so you could drop string down the pipe to attach to the wood.
Several lengths might enable you to make a cat's cradle. But the snag
is it'll tend to snag on the way up on all those lovely bits of rusty
iron - the more so with the string attached at the bottom .

All in all, I think I'd be telling myself that removing 20mm at a time
with a multitool must be good for me in many ways - eg blood pressure,
karma, a chapter for "Zen and the Art of House Maintenance"

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

In message , writes
On 20/09/2017 10:30, GB wrote:
I started using a multi-tool through the shoe opening to cut off 20mm
sections but then realised it was a long piece of wood and would take
hours.

Plug the shoe and fill the pipe with water?

I actually have a couple of lengths of cast iron rainwater downpipe in
my scrap pile.....

--
Tim Lamb

wrote:
On 20/09/2017 10:30, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 08:57, John Rumm wrote:
On 20/09/2017 00:50, wrote:
Some numpty (not me) seems to have dropped a long length of hardwood
down one of the downpipes on my "new" house - presumably when clearing
the hopper some years ago. I need to get the bottom discharge "shoe" off
to get the wood out but it probably hasn't been touched since it was
built (1930s) and I can't work out what the fixings are. I've got the
paint and render off the fixings and the heads seem to be domed, but no
slot or other means of undoing the things.

They are normally very large nail like fixings that are hammered into
a wood plug that sits in a recess that is chiselled into the wall.
Basically very difficult to remove. I think in the circumstance I
would be looking at ways of getting the wood out via the same route it
went in.

I was thinking of a drain clearing rod pushed in from below,
particularly as the cast iron pipe won't look right with the domed
fixings removed.

*If successful,* that method may result in a large piece of sodden hard
wood emerging from the top of the pipe and crashing onto the bonce of
the person below. So, maybe, it would be best to get someone up a ladder
to lift it out, once the first bit emerges from the top.


A drain rod would be far too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
I've tried shoving plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15 are
too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

I started using a multi-tool through the shoe opening to cut off 20mm
sections but then realised it was a long piece of wood and would take hours.


If you can see the bottom of the stick, is there any chance of dropping a
weighted loop of string down from the top and out the bottom?

If so, you could pass the loop under the cut off bottom of the stick and
use the string to pull it back up. If the string isn't strong enough you
could use it to pull through something stronger once you've got the loop to
the bottom.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 20/09/2017 17:37, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 16:00, wrote:
On 20/09/2017 15:28, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 14:18, wrote:

A drain rod would be far too stiff to go round the bend in the shoe.
I've tried shoving plastic 22, 15 and 10mm pipe up - the 22 and 15
are too stiff, the 10 is too small and also gets snagged on the joints.

Maybe stick with the 10mm pipe idea for a minute, and perhaps there's
something you can attach to the end that would keep the pipe more or
less centred and would ride over the joints?Â* Something like a small
water bottle firmly attached with the neck downwards.


And the next question here would probably be: "how do I get a small
plastic bottle out of a cast iron downpipe" ;-)

Hence why I said "firmly attached". You bring it down to the shoe, and
if necessary cut it into bits with your multi tool.

It seems to me that you can discourage all suggestions, with a hearty
sneer, or you can use them constructively to sort out what is, after
all, your problem. I can assure you that I have no pieces of hardwood
stuck in my downpipes.

I'm always amazed that people here are so helpful, when the OP only
gives out a tiny fraction of the information about his problem at the
outset.

I think you missed my "smiley" - all suggestions are welcomed and I will
report back whatever works in the hope that it helps others

On 20/09/2017 17:38, GB wrote:
On 20/09/2017 16:00, wrote:

Doh! I hadn't thought of garden hose.

I used garden hose when I had a blockage in a pipe with a tight bend.
Worked a treat.
I tried tonight, it was too flexible