On 24/07/2017 17:06, wrote:
On Monday, 24 July 2017 16:28:36 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2017 13:34, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 24 July 2017 11:11:43 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

... if those are the tools the OP has. Otherwise it isn't. Random questioners are more likely to have a circular saw than a groover for a router.


No, it is clear he has a router.

we know that retard-boy. What we don't know is whether he has a saw that will do the job or not.

was the OP's comment "Oh, and and to answer some questions that have
come up - I have no power saws at all." not enough of a clue for you?

That response came later. Pay attention.

By "later", do you mean a hour and four minutes earlier by any chance?



--
Cheers,

John.

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On 24/07/2017 17:05, wrote:
On Monday, 24 July 2017 16:26:50 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2017 13:37, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 24 July 2017 11:34:54 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/07/2017 09:59, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 24 July 2017 02:03:48 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/07/2017 20:53, jkn wrote:

Hello all This is an enquiry about how to use a router to cut
a slot in the end of a sheet of wood.

Below is an ASCII-art side view of the sheet. The wood is
around 18mm thick.

The slot needs to be say 3mm across, and perhaps 15mm deep.


| | slot approx 3mm from edge

| | 3mm slot, 15mm or so deep

/ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / |-|
|------| | | | | | | | | | |_| | | |
| | |SIDE VIEW |

| ~18mm | thickness of wood

I have a Router (1/2" chuck) available to me. I originally
presumed that the approach would be to get a suitable 'deep
pocket' router bit and cut the slot in several passes.
However I cannot find such a router bit and am wondering if
there are any other options.

You will have difficulty finding a 3mm straight fluted bit -
and if you do, it will be very weak so you would need many
light passes to get to depth.

A 3mm diameter cutter can not do that, no matter how many
shallow passes you make. I know because I have one.

What you know is that your 3mm cutter can't do it...

The limitation with any straight cutter with flutes narrower than
the shank is that they will only have a limited depth of cut before
you hit the tapered section. On many cutters of that type, the max
depth is usually no more that 1/2", which given the OP suggested
"15mm or so" may or may not be adequate.

You can get 1/8" shank router cutters, which for 3mm fluted cutters
will not have the same limitation on depth of cut. You would need
either an adaptor collet for a larger machine, or a small detail
router like the Dremel style add on:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hakkin-Tita.../dp/B0187AYWE4




(However as I highlighted previously, there are other and better options
in this particular case).

Whoosh. The limitation with 1/8" sideways cutting bits is the lack of
lateral strength. Try to cut the op's slot and they will just break.

Are you just arguing for the sake of it again?

No they won't break with a lateral pass - its a router cutter not a
drill bit. Yes you will need to take light shallow passes - as I already
said above. With each pass the load on the cutter is at the tip where
its doing the cutting. If it survived the first pass, the following ones
should be no harder.

Having used such a thing I know what you discuss there is optimistic.

I have never broken a 1/8" router cutter (or any other for that matter)...

(chipped a few though)


--
Cheers,

John.

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On 24/07/2017 20:24, newshound wrote:
On 7/24/2017 8:22 AM, RJH wrote:
On 23/07/2017 20:53, jkn wrote:
Hello all
This is an enquiry about how to use a router to cut a slot in
the end of a sheet of wood.
Below is an ASCII-art side view of the sheet. The wood is around 18mm
thick.

The slot needs to be say 3mm across, and perhaps 15mm deep.


| | slot approx 3mm from edge

| | 3mm slot, 15mm or so deep
/ / / /
/ / / /
/ / / /
/ / / /
|-| |------|
| | | |
| | | |
| |_| |
| |
| |
|SIDE VIEW |

| ~18mm | thickness of wood

I have a Router (1/2" chuck) available to me. I originally presumed
that the
approach would be to get a suitable 'deep pocket' router bit and cut the
slot in several passes. However I cannot find such a router bit and am
wondering if there are any other options.

I am expecting to have it pointed out that the 3mm strip of wood left
on the LH side of the slot will be very weak. I do realise this... a
last resort is to
make a rebate rather than a slot, but this leaves me with a different
finishing problem.

Thanks for any pointers and suggestions

jon N


IIUC, clamp the wood in a workmate and run a circular saw set to 15mm.
I did this to build a frame to hold the tongue of T&G cladding.

I think you might be lucky to have the thin strip survive. Given my poor
woodworking skills I think I would look at capping a stepped rebate.

Actually yes - I didn't take into account the 3mm from edge part. But if
it's a reasonably sympathetic blade, well worth a try. I clamped a piece
of wood to the bench as a guide rail and I was very surprised how good
it looked - and that was a 5mm strip at most.

--
Cheers, Rob

On 25/07/17 09:29, RJH wrote:
On 24/07/2017 20:24, newshound wrote:
On 7/24/2017 8:22 AM, RJH wrote:
On 23/07/2017 20:53, jkn wrote:
Hello all
This is an enquiry about how to use a router to cut a slot in
the end of a sheet of wood.
Below is an ASCII-art side view of the sheet. The wood is around
18mm thick.

The slot needs to be say 3mm across, and perhaps 15mm deep.


| | slot approx 3mm from edge

| | 3mm slot, 15mm or so deep
/ / / /
/ / / /
/ / / /
/ / / /
|-| |------|
| | | |
| | | |
| |_| |
| |
| |
|SIDE VIEW |

| ~18mm | thickness of wood

I have a Router (1/2" chuck) available to me. I originally presumed
that the
approach would be to get a suitable 'deep pocket' router bit and cut
the
slot in several passes. However I cannot find such a router bit and am
wondering if there are any other options.

I am expecting to have it pointed out that the 3mm strip of wood
left on the LH side of the slot will be very weak. I do realise
this... a last resort is to
make a rebate rather than a slot, but this leaves me with a different
finishing problem.

Thanks for any pointers and suggestions

jon N


IIUC, clamp the wood in a workmate and run a circular saw set to
15mm. I did this to build a frame to hold the tongue of T&G cladding.

I think you might be lucky to have the thin strip survive. Given my
poor woodworking skills I think I would look at capping a stepped rebate.

Actually yes - I didn't take into account the 3mm from edge part. But if
it's a reasonably sympathetic blade, well worth a try. I clamped a piece
of wood to the bench as a guide rail and I was very surprised how good
it looked - and that was a 5mm strip at most.

Actually no. A good router tool will leasve a 10 thou wafer standing if
you set it up right.



--
Socialism is the philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance and the
gospel of envy.

Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery.

Winston Churchill