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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#42
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how to route a thin deep slot in end grain of 18mm wood
On 24/07/2017 17:05, wrote:
On Monday, 24 July 2017 16:26:50 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote: On 24/07/2017 13:37, tabbypurr wrote: On Monday, 24 July 2017 11:34:54 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote: On 24/07/2017 09:59, tabbypurr wrote: On Monday, 24 July 2017 02:03:48 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote: On 23/07/2017 20:53, jkn wrote: Hello all This is an enquiry about how to use a router to cut a slot in the end of a sheet of wood. Below is an ASCII-art side view of the sheet. The wood is around 18mm thick. The slot needs to be say 3mm across, and perhaps 15mm deep. | | slot approx 3mm from edge | | 3mm slot, 15mm or so deep / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / |-| |------| | | | | | | | | | |_| | | | | | |SIDE VIEW | | ~18mm | thickness of wood I have a Router (1/2" chuck) available to me. I originally presumed that the approach would be to get a suitable 'deep pocket' router bit and cut the slot in several passes. However I cannot find such a router bit and am wondering if there are any other options. You will have difficulty finding a 3mm straight fluted bit - and if you do, it will be very weak so you would need many light passes to get to depth. A 3mm diameter cutter can not do that, no matter how many shallow passes you make. I know because I have one. What you know is that your 3mm cutter can't do it... The limitation with any straight cutter with flutes narrower than the shank is that they will only have a limited depth of cut before you hit the tapered section. On many cutters of that type, the max depth is usually no more that 1/2", which given the OP suggested "15mm or so" may or may not be adequate. You can get 1/8" shank router cutters, which for 3mm fluted cutters will not have the same limitation on depth of cut. You would need either an adaptor collet for a larger machine, or a small detail router like the Dremel style add on: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hakkin-Tita.../dp/B0187AYWE4 (However as I highlighted previously, there are other and better options in this particular case). Whoosh. The limitation with 1/8" sideways cutting bits is the lack of lateral strength. Try to cut the op's slot and they will just break. Are you just arguing for the sake of it again? No they won't break with a lateral pass - its a router cutter not a drill bit. Yes you will need to take light shallow passes - as I already said above. With each pass the load on the cutter is at the tip where its doing the cutting. If it survived the first pass, the following ones should be no harder. Having used such a thing I know what you discuss there is optimistic. I have never broken a 1/8" router cutter (or any other for that matter)... (chipped a few though) -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#43
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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how to route a thin deep slot in end grain of 18mm wood
On 24/07/2017 20:24, newshound wrote:
On 7/24/2017 8:22 AM, RJH wrote: On 23/07/2017 20:53, jkn wrote: Hello all This is an enquiry about how to use a router to cut a slot in the end of a sheet of wood. Below is an ASCII-art side view of the sheet. The wood is around 18mm thick. The slot needs to be say 3mm across, and perhaps 15mm deep. | | slot approx 3mm from edge | | 3mm slot, 15mm or so deep / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / |-| |------| | | | | | | | | | |_| | | | | | |SIDE VIEW | | ~18mm | thickness of wood I have a Router (1/2" chuck) available to me. I originally presumed that the approach would be to get a suitable 'deep pocket' router bit and cut the slot in several passes. However I cannot find such a router bit and am wondering if there are any other options. I am expecting to have it pointed out that the 3mm strip of wood left on the LH side of the slot will be very weak. I do realise this... a last resort is to make a rebate rather than a slot, but this leaves me with a different finishing problem. Thanks for any pointers and suggestions jon N IIUC, clamp the wood in a workmate and run a circular saw set to 15mm. I did this to build a frame to hold the tongue of T&G cladding. I think you might be lucky to have the thin strip survive. Given my poor woodworking skills I think I would look at capping a stepped rebate. Actually yes - I didn't take into account the 3mm from edge part. But if it's a reasonably sympathetic blade, well worth a try. I clamped a piece of wood to the bench as a guide rail and I was very surprised how good it looked - and that was a 5mm strip at most. -- Cheers, Rob |
#44
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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how to route a thin deep slot in end grain of 18mm wood
On 25/07/17 09:29, RJH wrote:
On 24/07/2017 20:24, newshound wrote: On 7/24/2017 8:22 AM, RJH wrote: On 23/07/2017 20:53, jkn wrote: Hello all This is an enquiry about how to use a router to cut a slot in the end of a sheet of wood. Below is an ASCII-art side view of the sheet. The wood is around 18mm thick. The slot needs to be say 3mm across, and perhaps 15mm deep. | | slot approx 3mm from edge | | 3mm slot, 15mm or so deep / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / |-| |------| | | | | | | | | | |_| | | | | | |SIDE VIEW | | ~18mm | thickness of wood I have a Router (1/2" chuck) available to me. I originally presumed that the approach would be to get a suitable 'deep pocket' router bit and cut the slot in several passes. However I cannot find such a router bit and am wondering if there are any other options. I am expecting to have it pointed out that the 3mm strip of wood left on the LH side of the slot will be very weak. I do realise this... a last resort is to make a rebate rather than a slot, but this leaves me with a different finishing problem. Thanks for any pointers and suggestions jon N IIUC, clamp the wood in a workmate and run a circular saw set to 15mm. I did this to build a frame to hold the tongue of T&G cladding. I think you might be lucky to have the thin strip survive. Given my poor woodworking skills I think I would look at capping a stepped rebate. Actually yes - I didn't take into account the 3mm from edge part. But if it's a reasonably sympathetic blade, well worth a try. I clamped a piece of wood to the bench as a guide rail and I was very surprised how good it looked - and that was a 5mm strip at most. Actually no. A good router tool will leasve a 10 thou wafer standing if you set it up right. -- Socialism is the philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance and the gospel of envy. Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. Winston Churchill |
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