Plastering - any tips?
 

Renovation of the bathroom continues apace - the end is in sight!

Part of the renovation has been to extend the bathroom into the bedroom by
about a foot in order to fit a full-size bath. This has created an alcove
constructed as a stud wall covered in Wickes plasterboard.

The majority of the surfaces are going to be tiled so don't have to be made
particularly "good". Except the ceiling of the alcove which, like the main
ceiling, I'm considering painting.

Therefore, an area of about 1.5m x 0.5m needs plastering. I've done some
bonding plasterwork but this is the first time I'm going to attempt
finishing plaster. I've bought a bag of Wickes universal finishing plaster.

Anyone got any tips for this job?

o Should I try and make the mix quite thick as it's been applied to an
upside down surface?
o I was just going to treat the plasterboard with PVC glue - is this
adequate?
o As it's just a shim over the plasterboard that's required to hide the
gaps, it can be a pretty thin layer - ok?
o How long does a thin layer like this take to dry?

Thanks, Rob.

Plastering - any tips?
 

"Rob Nicholson" wrote in message
...
Renovation of the bathroom continues apace - the end is in sight!

Part of the renovation has been to extend the bathroom into the bedroom by
about a foot in order to fit a full-size bath. This has created an alcove
constructed as a stud wall covered in Wickes plasterboard.

The majority of the surfaces are going to be tiled so don't have to be
made
particularly "good". Except the ceiling of the alcove which, like the main
ceiling, I'm considering painting.

Therefore, an area of about 1.5m x 0.5m needs plastering. I've done some
bonding plasterwork but this is the first time I'm going to attempt
finishing plaster. I've bought a bag of Wickes universal finishing
plaster.

Anyone got any tips for this job?

o Should I try and make the mix quite thick as it's been applied to an
upside down surface?
o I was just going to treat the plasterboard with PVC glue - is this
adequate?
o As it's just a shim over the plasterboard that's required to hide the
gaps, it can be a pretty thin layer - ok?
o How long does a thin layer like this take to dry?

Thanks, Rob.



Rob,

In my experience tiles directly onto plasterboard don't stay stuck for more
than a year or so. The slight flexing of the plasterboard unbonds them. I
have used Wickes cement based board intended for tiling in wet places and so
far (4 years) it has stood the test of time.

Andrew Mawson

Plastering - any tips?
 

In my experience tiles directly onto plasterboard don't stay stuck for
more
than a year or so. The slight flexing of the plasterboard unbonds them. I
have used Wickes cement based board intended for tiling in wet places and
so
far (4 years) it has stood the test of time.

Bit late for that! That part of the project is well and truely in place.
Removing it would be a real problem...

I know that the plasterboard has to be well treated for the tiles to stick.

Cheers, Rob.

Plastering - any tips?
 

On Sat, 7 Feb 2004 18:57:03 -0000, "Rob Nicholson"
wrote:

Renovation of the bathroom continues apace - the end is in sight!

Part of the renovation has been to extend the bathroom into the bedroom by
about a foot in order to fit a full-size bath. This has created an alcove
constructed as a stud wall covered in Wickes plasterboard.

The majority of the surfaces are going to be tiled so don't have to be made
particularly "good". Except the ceiling of the alcove which, like the main
ceiling, I'm considering painting.

Therefore, an area of about 1.5m x 0.5m needs plastering. I've done some
bonding plasterwork but this is the first time I'm going to attempt
finishing plaster. I've bought a bag of Wickes universal finishing plaster.

Anyone got any tips for this job?

o Should I try and make the mix quite thick as it's been applied to an
upside down surface?
o I was just going to treat the plasterboard with PVC glue - is this
adequate?
o As it's just a shim over the plasterboard that's required to hide the
gaps, it can be a pretty thin layer - ok?
o How long does a thin layer like this take to dry?

Thanks, Rob.

I've cut and pasted this reply to a previous post as I'm sure the
original poster wouldn't mind.

"If you've never tried it, don't touch the room. Get another sheet of
plasterboard, some new multifinish or plasterboard plaster (as someone
says, make sure it's fresh- the stuff sets in minutes if it's old and
has to all come off again) and have a crack on the spare plasterboard.
Make the mix up quite runny- I typically get a bucket of water and a
drill-based mixer and add plaster until it's the consistency of
whipped cream.
A guy who used to do skimming for us told me once a common error is to
make the mix too dry, and it becomes more difficult to work. Prepare
the surface either by washing (to make wet) or PVAing (to seal) and
then apply the plaster. The first challenge, particularly overhead, is
to stop the stuff falling straight off again having not stuck to the
surface :)

Assuming you get it all on, make reasonably smooth with the trowel and
leave for a while. 10-20 minutes. It should now be firm but not set
and you can use a wet trowel to ontinue smoothing the surface as far
as necessary. Do it long enough and the final result (after drying)
feels absolutely smooth with no grittiness.

After it's dry, look at an angle and see all the lumps you thought
you'd smoothed out. If you're happy with the result, have a crack at
the walls, one at a time. Make sure all the nails in the plasterboard
are galvanised or otherwise rustproof, otherwise the heads will rust
and expand and circles of plaster will pop off a few months down the
line. If you're not happy, try it again- it improves with practise and
you're better off wasting plasterboard
that isn't on the wall.

--
Dr. Craig Graham, Software Engineer
Advanced Analysis and Integration Limited, UK. http://www.aail.co.uk/"


Mark S.

Plastering - any tips?
 

"Rob Nicholson" wrote in message
...
In my experience tiles directly onto plasterboard don't stay stuck for
more
than a year or so. The slight flexing of the plasterboard unbonds them.
I
have used Wickes cement based board intended for tiling in wet places
and
so
far (4 years) it has stood the test of time.

Bit late for that! That part of the project is well and truely in place.
Removing it would be a real problem...

I know that the plasterboard has to be well treated for the tiles to
stick.

Cheers, Rob.



Round showers and baths is the real problem - the grout line develops tiny
cracks - the water gets in, and off pops the tile !

Andrew

Plastering - any tips?
 

"Rob Nicholson" wrote in message
...
Renovation of the bathroom continues apace - the end is in sight!

Part of the renovation has been to extend the bathroom into the bedroom by
about a foot in order to fit a full-size bath. This has created an alcove
constructed as a stud wall covered in Wickes plasterboard.

The majority of the surfaces are going to be tiled so don't have to be
made
particularly "good". Except the ceiling of the alcove which, like the main
ceiling, I'm considering painting.

Therefore, an area of about 1.5m x 0.5m needs plastering. I've done some
bonding plasterwork but this is the first time I'm going to attempt
finishing plaster. I've bought a bag of Wickes universal finishing
plaster.

Anyone got any tips for this job?

o Should I try and make the mix quite thick as it's been applied to an
upside down surface?
o I was just going to treat the plasterboard with PVC glue - is this
adequate?
o As it's just a shim over the plasterboard that's required to hide the
gaps, it can be a pretty thin layer - ok?
o How long does a thin layer like this take to dry?

Thanks, Rob.



You would do well to search this group on google groups, looking for posts
on plastering by Andrew Gabriel.

Andrew took a plastering course a while ago, and has posted many good
explainations and guides for plastering, including pitfalls to avoid.

My recent attempts at plastering were both satisfying and pretty successful,
following advice gleaned from his posts - far more so than previous
attempts.

When money and time permit (new business still sucking both up) I'm gonna go
on one of them there plastering courses...

cheers
Richard

--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

Plastering - any tips?
 

Round showers and baths is the real problem - the grout line develops tiny
cracks - the water gets in, and off pops the tile !

Fortunately, the new plasterboard isn't by the bath/shower.

Rob.

Plastering - any tips?
 

"If you've never tried it, don't touch the room. Get another sheet of
plasterboard, some new multifinish or plasterboard plaster (as someone

It's fresh.

has to all come off again) and have a crack on the spare plasterboard.

Good idea...

A guy who used to do skimming for us told me once a common error is to
make the mix too dry, and it becomes more difficult to work. Prepare

Ahh right - I was thinking drier would make it stick easier on the ceiling.

the surface either by washing (to make wet) or PVAing (to seal) and

Gonna use PVA

Assuming you get it all on, make reasonably smooth with the trowel and
leave for a while. 10-20 minutes. It should now be firm but not set
and you can use a wet trowel to ontinue smoothing the surface as far
as necessary. Do it long enough and the final result (after drying)
feels absolutely smooth with no grittiness.

Ahh this is the bit I wasn't sure about - how long to wait before trying to
smooth off.

the walls, one at a time. Make sure all the nails in the plasterboard
are galvanised or otherwise rustproof, otherwise the heads will rust

They are plasterboard screws which I think are okay.

Cheers, Rob.

Plastering - any tips?
 

You would do well to search this group on google groups, looking for posts
on plastering by Andrew Gabriel.

Thanks - will do.

Rob.

Plastering - any tips?
 

Therefore, an area of about 1.5m x 0.5m needs plastering. I've done some
bonding plasterwork but this is the first time I'm going to attempt
finishing plaster. I've bought a bag of Wickes universal finishing
plaster.

Had a bash at this yesterday - not bad, although I say so myself, but a
handful of low spots. I trained on a bit of plasterboard first but that was
easier as it wasn't upside down, in a tight corner. Wish I'd done it before
all the bathroom fittings went in :-) But in search of perfection, I think
I'll do another skim over the top.

Is that okay? How long to wait before reskimming?

Thanks, Rob.