We have a C-shaped brick enclosure (back and two sides) which is about 3
feet high. It was probably once used as a compost heap.

We want to enclose it by adding a fourth wall, to make a raised flower bed.
It so happens that we have some spare bricks, and can buy any additional
ones if we need them.

What is the best way of tying in the new wall to the ends of the two side
walls? Is the best way to drill holes in the existing mortar/bricks, mortar
in pegs and then lay the new bricks so the pegs fit between the courses of
new bricks in the same way that butterfly ties are used?

https://s11.postimg.org/v5qv1gnar/enclosure.png

I'm reluctant to start chiselling-out the old mortar to make room for proper
butterfly ties, in case the mechanical shock fractures the mortar elsewhere.

It's only a low wall (probably about 10 rows of bricks) and the only load
will be from the soil inside the enclosure. The bricks would be standing on
a concrete base, not on bare earth, so they would be unlikely to settle over
time.

On 27/05/2017 11:08, NY wrote:
We have a C-shaped brick enclosure (back and two sides) which is about 3
feet high. It was probably once used as a compost heap.

We want to enclose it by adding a fourth wall, to make a raised flower
bed. It so happens that we have some spare bricks, and can buy any
additional ones if we need them.

What is the best way of tying in the new wall to the ends of the two
side walls? Is the best way to drill holes in the existing
mortar/bricks, mortar in pegs and then lay the new bricks so the pegs
fit between the courses of new bricks in the same way that butterfly
ties are used?

https://s11.postimg.org/v5qv1gnar/enclosure.png

I'm reluctant to start chiselling-out the old mortar to make room for
proper butterfly ties, in case the mechanical shock fractures the mortar
elsewhere.

It's only a low wall (probably about 10 rows of bricks) and the only
load will be from the soil inside the enclosure. The bricks would be
standing on a concrete base, not on bare earth, so they would be
unlikely to settle over time.

Search for furfix

Use something like these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-w...ss-steel/56037

Your local builders merchant may have a variation on these. Drill, plug and screw the backplate to wall and arrange the tie in plates as required.

Richard

On Saturday, 27 May 2017 11:08:34 UTC+1, NY wrote:
We have a C-shaped brick enclosure (back and two sides) which is about 3
feet high. It was probably once used as a compost heap.

We want to enclose it by adding a fourth wall, to make a raised flower bed.
It so happens that we have some spare bricks, and can buy any additional
ones if we need them.

What is the best way of tying in the new wall to the ends of the two side
walls? Is the best way to drill holes in the existing mortar/bricks, mortar
in pegs and then lay the new bricks so the pegs fit between the courses of
new bricks in the same way that butterfly ties are used?

https://s11.postimg.org/v5qv1gnar/enclosure.png

I'm reluctant to start chiselling-out the old mortar to make room for proper
butterfly ties, in case the mechanical shock fractures the mortar elsewhere.

It's only a low wall (probably about 10 rows of bricks) and the only load
will be from the soil inside the enclosure. The bricks would be standing on
a concrete base, not on bare earth, so they would be unlikely to settle over
time.

The best way is to remove the half bricks in the wall ends & mortar the new brickwork in making a seamless join. However that's obvious enough and you're not considering that, so presumably you want a quick easy way rather than the best way.


NT

NY wrote:
We have a C-shaped brick enclosure (back and two sides) which is
about 3 feet high. It was probably once used as a compost heap.

We want to enclose it by adding a fourth wall, to make a raised
flower bed. It so happens that we have some spare bricks, and can buy
any additional ones if we need them.

What is the best way of tying in the new wall to the ends of the two
side walls? Is the best way to drill holes in the existing
mortar/bricks, mortar in pegs and then lay the new bricks so the pegs
fit between the courses of new bricks in the same way that butterfly
ties are used?
https://s11.postimg.org/v5qv1gnar/enclosure.png

I'm reluctant to start chiselling-out the old mortar to make room for
proper butterfly ties, in case the mechanical shock fractures the
mortar elsewhere.
It's only a low wall (probably about 10 rows of bricks) and the only
load will be from the soil inside the enclosure. The bricks would be
standing on a concrete base, not on bare earth, so they would be
unlikely to settle over time.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-...-/172507316546

You'll need about 4, you can buy them singly at B&Q or builders
merchants....about 75p each.
Lay three courses, ties in both ends on the next course, lay another 3 or 4
courses and do the same, job done.

You'll need a drill and plugs.

Put the ties in before you start laying bricks or you'll struggle drilling

Using a starter system for this is a waste of money

"NY" wrote in message
o.uk...
We have a C-shaped brick enclosure (back and two sides) which is about 3
feet high. It was probably once used as a compost heap.

We want to enclose it by adding a fourth wall, to make a raised flower
bed. It so happens that we have some spare bricks, and can buy any
additional ones if we need them.

What is the best way of tying in the new wall to the ends of the two side
walls? Is the best way to drill holes in the existing mortar/bricks,
mortar in pegs and then lay the new bricks so the pegs fit between the
courses of new bricks in the same way that butterfly ties are used?

https://s11.postimg.org/v5qv1gnar/enclosure.png

I'm reluctant to start chiselling-out the old mortar to make room for
proper butterfly ties, in case the mechanical shock fractures the mortar
elsewhere.

It's only a low wall (probably about 10 rows of bricks) and the only load
will be from the soil inside the enclosure. The bricks would be standing
on a concrete base, not on bare earth, so they would be unlikely to settle
over time.
bricktor ....

"Phil L" wrote in message
...
NY wrote:
We have a C-shaped brick enclosure (back and two sides) which is
about 3 feet high. It was probably once used as a compost heap.

We want to enclose it by adding a fourth wall, to make a raised
flower bed. It so happens that we have some spare bricks, and can buy
any additional ones if we need them.

What is the best way of tying in the new wall to the ends of the two
side walls? Is the best way to drill holes in the existing
mortar/bricks, mortar in pegs and then lay the new bricks so the pegs
fit between the courses of new bricks in the same way that butterfly
ties are used?
https://s11.postimg.org/v5qv1gnar/enclosure.png

I'm reluctant to start chiselling-out the old mortar to make room for
proper butterfly ties, in case the mechanical shock fractures the
mortar elsewhere.
It's only a low wall (probably about 10 rows of bricks) and the only
load will be from the soil inside the enclosure. The bricks would be
standing on a concrete base, not on bare earth, so they would be
unlikely to settle over time.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-...-/172507316546

You'll need about 4, you can buy them singly at B&Q or builders
merchants....about 75p each.
Lay three courses, ties in both ends on the next course, lay another 3 or
4 courses and do the same, job done.

You'll need a drill and plugs.

Put the ties in before you start laying bricks or you'll struggle drilling

Using a starter system for this is a waste of money

Thanks for all the suggestions. Those screw-in ties look good. I presume you
grip them in a mole grip to turn them so you can screw them into the wall.

Another subsidiary question: what's the best/cheapest way to cut bricks in
half? I don't need a high-tech expensive solution like a grinder, for the
small number of bricks, so what are the things to watch out for with a
bolster?

The bricks that I have (the previous owner of the house had buried them,
un-mortared in a flower bed to make a small patio) are the sort with 2x5 (or
in some cases, 3x6) holes moulded right through them (as opposed to an
indented frog), presumably to reduce the weight and act as a key for the
mortar. Is this likely to make it harder to get the bolster to cut along the
line that I want? Several bricks have already split roughly 60:40
diagonally. It would be nice to use at least the larger half for some of the
half-bricks that I'll need at the ends of alternate rows.

Neatness is not an issue: it's for a flowerbed in the garden rather than
anything where perfection is necessary.

On Sunday, 28 May 2017 18:01:05 UTC+1, NY wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
...
NY wrote:
We have a C-shaped brick enclosure (back and two sides) which is
about 3 feet high. It was probably once used as a compost heap.

We want to enclose it by adding a fourth wall, to make a raised
flower bed. It so happens that we have some spare bricks, and can buy
any additional ones if we need them.

What is the best way of tying in the new wall to the ends of the two
side walls?

Thanks for all the suggestions. Those screw-in ties look good. I presume you
grip them in a mole grip to turn them so you can screw them into the wall.

Another subsidiary question: what's the best/cheapest way to cut bricks in
half? I don't need a high-tech expensive solution like a grinder, for the
small number of bricks, so what are the things to watch out for with a
bolster?

best: wet diamond cutter
cheapest: hammer & bolster. Some will break wrong.

The bricks that I have (the previous owner of the house had buried them,
un-mortared in a flower bed to make a small patio) are the sort with 2x5 (or
in some cases, 3x6) holes moulded right through them (as opposed to an
indented frog), presumably to reduce the weight and act as a key for the
mortar. Is this likely to make it harder to get the bolster to cut along the
line that I want? Several bricks have already split roughly 60:40
diagonally. It would be nice to use at least the larger half for some of the
half-bricks that I'll need at the ends of alternate rows.

Neatness is not an issue: it's for a flowerbed in the garden rather than
anything where perfection is necessary.

Breaks follow the line of least resistance.


NT