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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of
the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!

I've tried gluing the back box in but as soon as there is any movement
of the cables, which there obviously is when connecting the switch, the
glue can't hold and the box moves about again.

Any great ideas what to do? Photo he

https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/invite/DP9yF4ef9r
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Pete Zahut wrote:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls
of which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box
rather than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is
that there are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct
orientation for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one
(don't know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with
anything shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the
depth of the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!

I've tried gluing the back box in but as soon as there is any movement
of the cables, which there obviously is when connecting the switch,
the glue can't hold and the box moves about again.

Any great ideas what to do? Photo he

https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/invite/DP9yF4ef9r


Why not just use a surface mounted one?
You'll need some timber in the gap to affix it to, but it should hold up
better than a sunken box in that wall.


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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

On Friday, 17 February 2017 13:04:25 UTC, Pete Zahut wrote:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.



Scrape out some of the eggbox filling and insert a noggin between the plasterboard leaves. Then screw through the sides of the metal box into the noggin.

https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/invite/DP9yF4ef9r


"Error
Opera Browser detected"

How charming of BT Cloud.

Owain



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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of
the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!


One of these?

http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?
--
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

jim expressed precisely :
Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of
the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!


One of these?


http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html


That's a standard dry-lining box. I need the lugs to be on the other
two surfaces (top and bottom as you look at that photo) but nobody
makes them.

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?


Maybe, but not hopeful to be honest.


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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Phil L used his keyboard to write :
Pete Zahut wrote:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls
of which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box
rather than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is
that there are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct
orientation for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one
(don't know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with
anything shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the
depth of the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!

I've tried gluing the back box in but as soon as there is any movement
of the cables, which there obviously is when connecting the switch,
the glue can't hold and the box moves about again.

Any great ideas what to do? Photo he

https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/invite/DP9yF4ef9r


Why not just use a surface mounted one?
You'll need some timber in the gap to affix it to, but it should hold up
better than a sunken box in that wall.


Maybe - as a last option. Wifey doesn't want it sticking out of the
wall but it may have to stick out a bit if we can't do anything else,
thanks though.
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Pete Zahut wrote:
jim expressed precisely :
Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of
the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!


One of these?


http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html


That's a standard dry-lining box. I need the lugs to be on the other
two surfaces (top and bottom as you look at that photo) but nobody
makes them.

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?


Maybe, but not hopeful to be honest.


Um, your switch has screws top and bottom so you want a box that has screw
fixings in the same place. Fit that dry lining box vertically and you have
what you need, unless I'm missing something obvious...

Tim

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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

In article ,
Phil L wrote:
I've tried gluing the back box in but as soon as there is any movement
of the cables, which there obviously is when connecting the switch,
the glue can't hold and the box moves about again.


Remove the box, and fit a couple of wood battens either side of the
opening (1" x 1" will be more than adequate) to the back of the
plasterboard, their edges flush with the opening. Screw them in place
using screws through the plasterboard and make good the heads - non
rusting screws being best.

Then screw the box to the battens using small countersunk head screws that
won't foul on the fitting in any way. You may well have to drill holes in
the box sides for this.

This method provides an extremely strong fixing for any steel backbox
into plasterboard.

If the plasterboard were tiled or well decorated, you might get away with
glueing the battens to the back of it and clamping until the glue sets. If
you're lucky. ;-)

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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Tim+ submitted this idea :
Pete Zahut wrote:
jim expressed precisely :
Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of
the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!


One of these?


http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html


That's a standard dry-lining box. I need the lugs to be on the other
two surfaces (top and bottom as you look at that photo) but nobody
makes them.

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?


Maybe, but not hopeful to be honest.


Um, your switch has screws top and bottom so you want a box that has screw
fixings in the same place. Fit that dry lining box vertically and you have
what you need, unless I'm missing something obvious...

Tim


Only two 10mm twin and earth cables coming in and going out at the
bottom :')


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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Dave Plowman (News) laid this down on his screen :
In article ,
Phil L wrote:
I've tried gluing the back box in but as soon as there is any movement
of the cables, which there obviously is when connecting the switch,
the glue can't hold and the box moves about again.


Remove the box, and fit a couple of wood battens either side of the
opening (1" x 1" will be more than adequate) to the back of the
plasterboard, their edges flush with the opening. Screw them in place
using screws through the plasterboard and make good the heads - non
rusting screws being best.

Then screw the box to the battens using small countersunk head screws that
won't foul on the fitting in any way. You may well have to drill holes in
the box sides for this.

This method provides an extremely strong fixing for any steel backbox
into plasterboard.

If the plasterboard were tiled or well decorated, you might get away with
glueing the battens to the back of it and clamping until the glue sets. If
you're lucky. ;-)


Excellent, cheers Dave
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Pete Zahut wrote:
Tim+ submitted this idea :
Pete Zahut wrote:
jim expressed precisely :
Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of
the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!


One of these?


http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html

That's a standard dry-lining box. I need the lugs to be on the other
two surfaces (top and bottom as you look at that photo) but nobody
makes them.

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?

Maybe, but not hopeful to be honest.


Um, your switch has screws top and bottom so you want a box that has screw
fixings in the same place. Fit that dry lining box vertically and you have
what you need, unless I'm missing something obvious...

Tim


Only two 10mm twin and earth cables coming in and going out at the
bottom :')


How much slack is there in the cables? Enough to re-route?

Tim

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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Pete Zahut formulated the question :
Tim+ submitted this idea :
Pete Zahut wrote:
jim expressed precisely :
Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of the
switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to be
able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a dry-lining
box that no one makes!


One of these?


http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html

That's a standard dry-lining box. I need the lugs to be on the other two
surfaces (top and bottom as you look at that photo) but nobody makes them.

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?

Maybe, but not hopeful to be honest.


Um, your switch has screws top and bottom so you want a box that has screw
fixings in the same place. Fit that dry lining box vertically and you have
what you need, unless I'm missing something obvious...

Tim


Only two 10mm twin and earth cables coming in and going out at the bottom :')


Aha, yes, I see what you mean Tim - I'm a bit of a numpty lol
Yes, I need something that doesn't exist ( a dry-lining box with lugs
at top and sides but only a screw fixing at the bottom, to allow for
the entry/exit of the cables at the bottom), which is obviously why
they went with the metal back box instead.
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Tim+ was thinking very hard :
Pete Zahut wrote:
Tim+ submitted this idea :
Pete Zahut wrote:
jim expressed precisely :
Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of
the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!


One of these?


http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html

That's a standard dry-lining box. I need the lugs to be on the other
two surfaces (top and bottom as you look at that photo) but nobody
makes them.

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?

Maybe, but not hopeful to be honest.


Um, your switch has screws top and bottom so you want a box that has screw
fixings in the same place. Fit that dry lining box vertically and you have
what you need, unless I'm missing something obvious...

Tim


Only two 10mm twin and earth cables coming in and going out at the
bottom :')


How much slack is there in the cables? Enough to re-route?

Tim


Sadly not. However, Dave Plowman's suggestion gives me hope of getting
it sorted without too much hassle.
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Pete Zahut wrote:
Tim+ was thinking very hard :
Pete Zahut wrote:
Tim+ submitted this idea :
Pete Zahut wrote:
jim expressed precisely :
Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of
the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!


One of these?


http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html

That's a standard dry-lining box. I need the lugs to be on the other
two surfaces (top and bottom as you look at that photo) but nobody
makes them.

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?

Maybe, but not hopeful to be honest.


Um, your switch has screws top and bottom so you want a box that has screw
fixings in the same place. Fit that dry lining box vertically and you have
what you need, unless I'm missing something obvious...

Tim

Only two 10mm twin and earth cables coming in and going out at the
bottom :')


How much slack is there in the cables? Enough to re-route?

Tim


Sadly not. However, Dave Plowman's suggestion gives me hope of getting
it sorted without too much hassle.


Couldn't you just cut a biggish hole in one of the bottom corners of a dry
lining enclosure? Dunno about the "legality" of such a modification.

Tim

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In article ,
Pete Zahut wrote:
Sadly not. However, Dave Plowman's suggestion gives me hope of getting
it sorted without too much hassle.


I dislike dryline boxes as you can sometimes see them with the fitting in
place.

My method works every time and is totally invisible. And as strong as the
plasterboard.

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Dave Plowman London SW
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A box with a relay in it somewhere else and a low voltage feed to a switch
for the relay?
Brian

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The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Pete Zahut" wrote in message news
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation for
this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of the
switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or whatever
it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to be able to
plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a dry-lining box that
no one makes!

I've tried gluing the back box in but as soon as there is any movement of
the cables, which there obviously is when connecting the switch, the glue
can't hold and the box moves about again.

Any great ideas what to do? Photo he

https://btcloud.bt.com/web/app/share/invite/DP9yF4ef9r


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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Tim+ formulated the question :
Pete Zahut wrote:
Tim+ was thinking very hard :
Pete Zahut wrote:
Tim+ submitted this idea :
Pete Zahut wrote:
jim expressed precisely :
Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls
of which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box
rather than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is
that there are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct
orientation for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one
(don't know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with
anything shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the
depth of the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!


One of these?


http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html

That's a standard dry-lining box. I need the lugs to be on the other
two surfaces (top and bottom as you look at that photo) but nobody
makes them.

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?

Maybe, but not hopeful to be honest.


Um, your switch has screws top and bottom so you want a box that has
screw fixings in the same place. Fit that dry lining box vertically and
you have what you need, unless I'm missing something obvious...

Tim

Only two 10mm twin and earth cables coming in and going out at the
bottom :')


How much slack is there in the cables? Enough to re-route?

Tim


Sadly not. However, Dave Plowman's suggestion gives me hope of getting
it sorted without too much hassle.


Couldn't you just cut a biggish hole in one of the bottom corners of a dry
lining enclosure? Dunno about the "legality" of such a modification.


I suppose that may work, might just try it as an experiment as I've got
Dave's suggestion to fall back on if it doesn't work, cheers.
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Brian Gaff wrote:
A box with a relay in it somewhere else and a low voltage feed to a switch
for the relay?


I don't think that's allowed - it has to be possible to see the state of
the isolator (and not rely on an indicator light) or it's not an
isolator.

Mike
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
jim expressed precisely :
Pete Zahut Wrote in message:
We live in a 1960s semi-detached dormer bungalow, the internal walls of
which seem to be made of something like an egg-box construction.

There's a 45A double pole switch for the shower mounted outside the
bathroom but whoever fitted it should have used a dry-lining box rather
than a metal back box. Presumably the reason they didn't, is that there
are no dry-lining boxes that have the lugs in the correct orientation
for this situation.

The metal back box that's there at the moment is a very deep one (don't
know if they're 45 or 50mm deep) but we can't get away with anything
shallower because of the two 10mm twin+earth cables and the depth of
the switch.

The problem is, the box is actually touching the plasterboard (or
whatever it is) at the other side of the wall, so there's no depth to
be able to plug and screw and fixings - which is why it needs a
dry-lining box that no one makes!


One of these?


http://www.websparky.co.uk/acatalog/...mm-Deep-Dry-Li
ning-Box-WA107P.html


That's a standard dry-lining box. I need the lugs to be on the other
two surfaces (top and bottom as you look at that photo) but nobody
makes them.

Can you inject some gripfill /Stixall type adhesive through the
holes in the back if the one you've got already & try
again?


Maybe, but not hopeful to be honest.


Fair enough.
--
Jim K


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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
In article ,
Phil L wrote:
I've tried gluing the back box in but as soon as there is any movement
of the cables, which there obviously is when connecting the switch,
the glue can't hold and the box moves about again.


Remove the box, and fit a couple of wood battens either side of the
opening (1" x 1" will be more than adequate) to the back of the
plasterboard, their edges flush with the opening. Screw them in place
using screws through the plasterboard and make good the heads - non
rusting screws being best.

Then screw the box to the battens using small countersunk head screws that
won't foul on the fitting in any way. You may well have to drill holes in
the box sides for this.

This method provides an extremely strong fixing for any steel backbox
into plasterboard.


Used to do this for isolating shaver sockets into plasterboard walls,
as it took some years before deep enough plasterboard back boxes appered.

If the plasterboard were tiled or well decorated, you might get away with
glueing the battens to the back of it and clamping until the glue sets. If
you're lucky. ;-)


Another way (although more suited to a wall which is too crumbly to
affix a back box) is to fill the hole with plaster bonding coat, and
then push the box back into it. Leave plaster to set (wipe clear of
any lugs before it sets). This won't budge.
A bag of old plaster is ideal for this as it will set very quickly.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

On 17/02/2017 16:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Pete Zahut wrote:
Sadly not. However, Dave Plowman's suggestion gives me hope of getting
it sorted without too much hassle.


I dislike dryline boxes as you can sometimes see them with the fitting in
place.


Then you need plasterboard flanges


My method works every time and is totally invisible. And as strong as the
plasterboard.


That looks like the OP's best solution as the wall is not deep enough
for the back box and plasterboard flanges.

--
Adam
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 17/02/2017 16:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Pete Zahut wrote:
Sadly not. However, Dave Plowman's suggestion gives me hope of getting
it sorted without too much hassle.


I dislike dryline boxes as you can sometimes see them with the fitting
in place.


Then you need plasterboard flanges.


I've found them rather fiddly to use. Perhaps I just need more practice.
;-)



My method works every time and is totally invisible. And as strong as
the plasterboard.


That looks like the OP's best solution as the wall is not deep enough
for the back box and plasterboard flanges.


--
*Why do overlook and oversee mean opposite things? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

On 19/02/2017 11:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 17/02/2017 16:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Pete Zahut wrote:
Sadly not. However, Dave Plowman's suggestion gives me hope of getting
it sorted without too much hassle.

I dislike dryline boxes as you can sometimes see them with the fitting
in place.


Then you need plasterboard flanges.


I've found them rather fiddly to use. Perhaps I just need more practice.
;-)


It's better than a dryliner box. I think I have mentioned before that I
believe that dry liner boxes are made from the devils spunk.


--
Adam
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Default Fixing deep back box for shower isolator

In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 19/02/2017 11:31, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 17/02/2017 16:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Pete Zahut wrote:
Sadly not. However, Dave Plowman's suggestion gives me hope of
getting it sorted without too much hassle.

I dislike dryline boxes as you can sometimes see them with the
fitting in place.


Then you need plasterboard flanges.


I've found them rather fiddly to use. Perhaps I just need more
practice. ;-)


It's better than a dryliner box. I think I have mentioned before that I
believe that dry liner boxes are made from the devils spunk.


It's probably me, but anything like that made out of plastic with
knockouts or whatever seems to always break in the wrong place. Like JBs
with that thin snap out part for the wires where the entire side broke off.

--
*It's not hard to meet expenses... they're everywhere.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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