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On Saturday, 21 January 2017 19:29:43 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 18:33:42 +0000, alan_m
wrote:
On 21/01/2017 18:16, Scott wrote:

As a matter of interest, why to the 12 Volt ones seem to be more
problematic than the mains ones?


Current to be supplied?

10W from 220V, current to be supplied 0.045 Amps

10W from 12V, current to be supplied 0.833 Amps

The low supply voltage power supply is switching high currents.
The mains supply is switching low currents.


That makes sense. I had not thought of that.

I take it this 'switching' is what they used to call 'rectifying' when
I was at school?


no

Would it be possible to fit a rectifier to the
output of the transformer then use DC bulbs?


of course

Would this solve the
problem?


no

Also, I see that the bulbs are AC or DC. Would be be possible to fit
a rectifier and use the same bulbs or would the circuitry continue to
cause problems?

Do you envisage technical developments resolving this or has the
balance shifted in favour of 230V so far as LED is concerned?


The problem is not technical, it's penny pinching.


NT
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On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 21:44:35 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 21/01/2017 20:44, Scott wrote:


As a follow-up I see there are some EMI free bulbs advertised. I
won't post links as some might then question my motives. They seem to
be lower-powered and DC.


Unless you are running them from a 12V DC source, say, on a boat,
caravan etc. you may just be moving the problem to the external power
supply you have to fit to drive the DC bulbs


Thanks, but the power supply is okay. I have three toroidal
transformers presently used with the halogen lamps and they do not
cause interference problems. The problem would be converting to DC
and I wonder if this could be done without using these switched mode
devices (that I still need to read up about).
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On 21 Jan 2017 22:46:27 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 19:29:42 +0000, Scott wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 18:33:42 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 21/01/2017 18:16, Scott wrote:

As a matter of interest, why to the 12 Volt ones seem to be more
problematic than the mains ones?


Current to be supplied?

10W from 220V, current to be supplied 0.045 Amps

10W from 12V, current to be supplied 0.833 Amps

The low supply voltage power supply is switching high currents.
The mains supply is switching low currents.


That makes sense. I had not thought of that.

I take it this 'switching' is what they used to call 'rectifying' when I
was at school?


No.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch...e_power_supply


Thanks. I don't follow it all but I am getting the idea. I will
Google linear regulators later.
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On Sunday, 22 January 2017 10:21:58 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 23:35:16 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

[snip]

Would this solve the
problem?


no

Would it solve the problem if I used a different type of device rather
that switched mode?


Device? I don't know what you mean. Maybe unsnip some.

I am beginning to think I should stick with halogen and make
equivalent energy savings elsewhere, in the same way that
organisations offset carbon by planting trees instead of by cutting
energy use.


Halogen is just a crap option for indoors. Some people love them of course, but then some people drive Trabants.


NT


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On 20/01/2017 13:08, dave wrote:
I'd like to replace all the lamps/bulb in house with LED ones (mains
bayonett fittings).

I bought a couple the other day from Tesco £7 each - and I like the
colour - and the power saving :-) Is that price a reasonable one for
8W LED lamp?

I'd just like to ask if someone can recommend a site to buy such
lamps from? My 'friends' google and ebay has zillions, but don't want
to end up with a stack of fakes. A bit cynical but it adds up to quite
a sum to change them all. Seen a few comments saying Lidl/Aldi LED
lamps are good value and quality.Thanks for any info on this.

OT: Afaik the LED lamps really are LED arrays - so I guess there is
some arsenic toxicity risk in disposal? (Minute amounts). And CFL's
have Hg. Just mention this because Sains.s lamp recycling bin is
always crammed full of CFL's - many are smashed!


FWIW, I've put about 10 Poundstretcher 3W LED bayonet bulbs around the
house (branded Muller Light, or something like that, £1 each) in
often-on locations over the past year. No problems so far.

--
Cheers, Rob
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On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 02:52:46 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Sunday, 22 January 2017 10:21:58 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 23:35:16 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

[snip]

Would this solve the
problem?

no

Would it solve the problem if I used a different type of device rather
that switched mode?


Device? I don't know what you mean. Maybe unsnip some.


If you followed the rest of the thread, you would have seen the link
Bob helpfully posted:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch...e_power_supply
I was thinking of what is described there as a linear power supply.

I am beginning to think I should stick with halogen and make
equivalent energy savings elsewhere, in the same way that
organisations offset carbon by planting trees instead of by cutting
energy use.


Halogen is just a crap option for indoors. Some people love them of course, but then some people drive Trabants.

Very insightful. It's for the kitchen not the toilet though.

What lighting would you actually recommend for a kitchen and for what
reasons?
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On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 10:56:19 +0000, RJH wrote:

On 20/01/2017 13:08, dave wrote:
I'd like to replace all the lamps/bulb in house with LED ones (mains
bayonett fittings).

I bought a couple the other day from Tesco £7 each - and I like the
colour - and the power saving :-) Is that price a reasonable one for
8W LED lamp?

I'd just like to ask if someone can recommend a site to buy such
lamps from? My 'friends' google and ebay has zillions, but don't want
to end up with a stack of fakes. A bit cynical but it adds up to quite
a sum to change them all. Seen a few comments saying Lidl/Aldi LED
lamps are good value and quality.Thanks for any info on this.

OT: Afaik the LED lamps really are LED arrays - so I guess there is
some arsenic toxicity risk in disposal? (Minute amounts). And CFL's
have Hg. Just mention this because Sains.s lamp recycling bin is
always crammed full of CFL's - many are smashed!


FWIW, I've put about 10 Poundstretcher 3W LED bayonet bulbs around the
house (branded Muller Light, or something like that, £1 each) in
often-on locations over the past year. No problems so far.


In the interests of science, could you hold a DAB radio close to one
of these bulbs and let us know whether it causes RF interference.
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In article ,
says...

I'd like to replace all the lamps/bulb in house with LED ones (mains
bayonett fittings).

Poundland sell both 3W and 5W LED bulbs - for a pound,
obviously - with a variety of bases including BC.

I've used the 3W version in bedside lights and they are fine

--

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On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 13:31:29 -0000, Terry Casey
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'd like to replace all the lamps/bulb in house with LED ones (mains
bayonett fittings).

Poundland sell both 3W and 5W LED bulbs - for a pound,
obviously - with a variety of bases including BC.

I've used the 3W version in bedside lights and they are fine


As with RJH could you do me a favour and place a DAB radio nearby to
see if there is any interference?


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On 22/01/2017 12:04, Scott wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 10:56:19 +0000, RJH wrote:



In the interests of science, could you hold a DAB radio close to one
of these bulbs and let us know whether it causes RF interference.


It possibly wouldn't be of too much use to you. Pound shop products
such as this tend to change on a monthly basis. What you buy today will
be supplied by another manufacturer next month and that is likely to
have different electronics.

If you look at some of the LED bulb tear downs on Youtube you will find
that the electronics in pound shop LED products range from very good to
absolute crap. Often the worst compromises or bad designs are in the
smaller bulbs such as the small down-light halogen replacements - there
is not a lot of room inside the casing.

--
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On Sunday, 22 January 2017 12:03:22 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 02:52:46 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 22 January 2017 10:21:58 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 23:35:16 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

[snip]

Would this solve the
problem?

no

Would it solve the problem if I used a different type of device rather
that switched mode?


Device? I don't know what you mean. Maybe unsnip some.


If you followed the rest of the thread,


I did

you would have seen the link
Bob helpfully posted:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch...e_power_supply
I was thinking of what is described there as a linear power supply.


You can always power LEDs with a linear supply, if suitably designed, but it's not as efficient.

I am beginning to think I should stick with halogen and make
equivalent energy savings elsewhere, in the same way that
organisations offset carbon by planting trees instead of by cutting
energy use.


Halogen is just a crap option for indoors. Some people love them of course, but then some people drive Trabants.

Very insightful. It's for the kitchen not the toilet though.

What lighting would you actually recommend for a kitchen and for what
reasons?


Linear fluorescent used to be a fairly good option if done properly, not some ugly bare switchstart fitting on the ceiling. Now LED strips are better as they're more controllable, lower cost, less of a pain to get & stock. Both are diffuse light sources, giving clearer vision, especially useful in a kitchen.


NT
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On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 14:08:57 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 22/01/2017 12:04, Scott wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 10:56:19 +0000, RJH wrote:



In the interests of science, could you hold a DAB radio close to one
of these bulbs and let us know whether it causes RF interference.


It possibly wouldn't be of too much use to you.


I am trying to find out whether it is possible to construct a bulb
that does not cause RF interference. Your explanation admits this
possibility.

Pound shop products
such as this tend to change on a monthly basis. What you buy today will
be supplied by another manufacturer next month and that is likely to
have different electronics.

If you look at some of the LED bulb tear downs on Youtube you will find
that the electronics in pound shop LED products range from very good to
absolute crap. Often the worst compromises or bad designs are in the
smaller bulbs such as the small down-light halogen replacements - there
is not a lot of room inside the casing.

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On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 06:34:45 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Sunday, 22 January 2017 12:03:22 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 02:52:46 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 22 January 2017 10:21:58 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 23:35:16 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

[snip]

Would this solve the
problem?

no

Would it solve the problem if I used a different type of device rather
that switched mode?

Device? I don't know what you mean. Maybe unsnip some.


If you followed the rest of the thread,


I did

you would have seen the link
Bob helpfully posted:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch...e_power_supply
I was thinking of what is described there as a linear power supply.


You can always power LEDs with a linear supply, if suitably designed, but it's not as efficient.


I'm not sure you are following the thread. If you were, you would
know the question is whether it would cause RF interference.
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In article ,
wrote:
Linear fluorescent used to be a fairly good option if done properly, not
some ugly bare switchstart fitting on the ceiling. Now LED strips are
better as they're more controllable, lower cost, less of a pain to get &
stock. Both are diffuse light sources, giving clearer vision, especially
useful in a kitchen.


I'm not convinced LEDs are as easy to look at directly as a fluorescent
tube.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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In article ,
Scott wrote:
You can always power LEDs with a linear supply, if suitably designed,
but it's not as efficient.


I'm not sure you are following the thread. If you were, you would
know the question is whether it would cause RF interference.


LEDs themselves don't cause any interference. It is the power supply that
does if this happens. And a SMPS is far more likely to generate RF than a
linear type.

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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 15:09:21 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Scott wrote:
You can always power LEDs with a linear supply, if suitably designed,
but it's not as efficient.


I'm not sure you are following the thread. If you were, you would
know the question is whether it would cause RF interference.


LEDs themselves don't cause any interference. It is the power supply that
does if this happens. And a SMPS is far more likely to generate RF than a
linear type.


Thanks very much. This may be an option for me to look at.
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On 22/01/2017 12:04, Scott wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 10:56:19 +0000, RJH wrote:

On 20/01/2017 13:08, dave wrote:
I'd like to replace all the lamps/bulb in house with LED ones (mains
bayonett fittings).

I bought a couple the other day from Tesco £7 each - and I like the
colour - and the power saving :-) Is that price a reasonable one for
8W LED lamp?

I'd just like to ask if someone can recommend a site to buy such
lamps from? My 'friends' google and ebay has zillions, but don't want
to end up with a stack of fakes. A bit cynical but it adds up to quite
a sum to change them all. Seen a few comments saying Lidl/Aldi LED
lamps are good value and quality.Thanks for any info on this.

OT: Afaik the LED lamps really are LED arrays - so I guess there is
some arsenic toxicity risk in disposal? (Minute amounts). And CFL's
have Hg. Just mention this because Sains.s lamp recycling bin is
always crammed full of CFL's - many are smashed!


FWIW, I've put about 10 Poundstretcher 3W LED bayonet bulbs around the
house (branded Muller Light, or something like that, £1 each) in
often-on locations over the past year. No problems so far.


In the interests of science, could you hold a DAB radio close to one
of these bulbs and let us know whether it causes RF interference.


Nothing noticeable, holding a portable radio close to most of the bulbs
on DAB or FM.

--
Cheers, Rob
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On Friday, 20 January 2017 17:50:30 UTC, Martin Brown wrote:
On 20/01/2017 15:41, whisky-dave wrote:
On Friday, 20 January 2017 14:44:08 UTC, Brian Gaff wrote:
I don't like halogen. gives me a headache even though I cannot see.
I get this spreading green yellow flashing haze when I go near
Halogen lighting. Goes to prove I guess that even blind eyes can
give strange effects. Brian


Have you found out why, as our brains tell use what we think we see
rather than what is there, so something in your brain is causing this
rather than your eyes I would have thought. I wonder what sot of
light halagen give out that no other light source including the sun
gives out.


There is a more intense IR component cf filament lamps as well as a
slight UV component but I can't see how it could affect someone.


Some people are more suseptable to certain things than others from UV for sunburn to epileptic fits, soem are colour blind some see colours in sound.
Soem peolpe use SAD lighting.


But to first order all incandescent lamps are basically black body
radiation with a characteristic temperature of 2700K, 3000K or 6000K for
classic, halogen and sun respectively.

The latter varying a fair amount with time of day and cloud cover.


yes siun rises (I see them in photos) and sunsets have quite differnt lighting.


Interesting I think you need to be tied to a chair and experimnted on
by shining differnt sorts of lights at you :-)


That sounds cruel.


But useful if yuo want to find out why something happens.
It doesn;t have to be cruel unless you want quick results. ;-)


--
Regards,
Martin Brown


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On 21/01/2017 18:16, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 18:03:03 +0000, Lee
wrote:

On 21/01/2017 17:56, Lee wrote:
On 20/01/2017 14:41, Brian Gaff wrote:
Have you also checked to see what interference they can chuck out.
some are
terrible, one assumes the dreaded switch mode psu.
Brian

Most of the more recent ones seem to be capacitive dropper...


^^^^ "some" not "most"


As a matter of interest, why to the 12 Volt ones seem to be more
problematic than the mains ones?


The 12v ones tend to be powered by a toroidal transformer expecting to
drive a lot more current into the original quartz halogen lamp fittings.

Halogen lamps require a substantial current and run mad hot so the
fittings are designed to insulate the ceiling from the very hot lamp.

This is almost a perfect storm for an LED bulb PSU. No way to convect
away hot air and a PSU that is over voltage due to an out of spec load.
They should be able to cope with the higher voltage within reason but
they cannot cope with having a running temperature much above 95C
without significantly shortening their lifetime.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown
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On Sunday, 22 January 2017 14:42:37 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 06:34:45 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 22 January 2017 12:03:22 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 02:52:46 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 22 January 2017 10:21:58 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 23:35:16 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

[snip]

Would this solve the
problem?

no

Would it solve the problem if I used a different type of device rather
that switched mode?

Device? I don't know what you mean. Maybe unsnip some.

If you followed the rest of the thread,


I did

you would have seen the link
Bob helpfully posted:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch...e_power_supply
I was thinking of what is described there as a linear power supply.


You can always power LEDs with a linear supply, if suitably designed, but it's not as efficient.


I'm not sure you are following the thread.


I am. I assumed you had more knowledge of linear supplies than you do.

If you were, you would
know the question is whether it would cause RF interference.


Linear supplies don't normally produce rfi, though it is possible, seldom, for them to. But as I pointed out, no-one uses them for efficiency reasons.

CR PSU LEDs have way less RFI than SMPSU types.


NT
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On Sunday, 22 January 2017 15:11:57 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:


Linear fluorescent used to be a fairly good option if done properly, not
some ugly bare switchstart fitting on the ceiling. Now LED strips are
better as they're more controllable, lower cost, less of a pain to get &
stock. Both are diffuse light sources, giving clearer vision, especially
useful in a kitchen.


I'm not convinced LEDs are as easy to look at directly as a fluorescent
tube.


In decently designed lighting the bare lamps are not directly visible.


NT
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On Mon, 23 Jan 2017 13:11:46 +0000, Martin Brown
wrote:

On 21/01/2017 18:16, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 18:03:03 +0000, Lee
wrote:

On 21/01/2017 17:56, Lee wrote:
On 20/01/2017 14:41, Brian Gaff wrote:
Have you also checked to see what interference they can chuck out.
some are
terrible, one assumes the dreaded switch mode psu.
Brian

Most of the more recent ones seem to be capacitive dropper...

^^^^ "some" not "most"


As a matter of interest, why to the 12 Volt ones seem to be more
problematic than the mains ones?


The 12v ones tend to be powered by a toroidal transformer expecting to
drive a lot more current into the original quartz halogen lamp fittings.


That is the position with mine. I was told (rightly or wrongly) that
there is no minimum load for a toroidal transformer. You seem to be
suggesting that the voltage can increase, but I thought these lamps
could cope with up to 24 volts anyway.

Halogen lamps require a substantial current and run mad hot so the
fittings are designed to insulate the ceiling from the very hot lamp.


In my case the lamps are on a track so I don't think they are
particularly thermally insulated. There is plenty of air surrounding.

This is almost a perfect storm for an LED bulb PSU. No way to convect
away hot air and a PSU that is over voltage due to an out of spec load.
They should be able to cope with the higher voltage within reason but
they cannot cope with having a running temperature much above 95C
without significantly shortening their lifetime.


Does this cause RF interference or simply a problem with lifespan?

Think I'll go back to halogen lamps and make energy savings in some
other way (or maybe plant a tree as carbon offset). .
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On 22/01/2017 12:03, Scott wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jan 2017 02:52:46 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Sunday, 22 January 2017 10:21:58 UTC, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 23:35:16 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

[snip]

Would this solve the
problem?

no

Would it solve the problem if I used a different type of device rather
that switched mode?


Device? I don't know what you mean. Maybe unsnip some.


If you followed the rest of the thread, you would have seen the link
Bob helpfully posted:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch...e_power_supply
I was thinking of what is described there as a linear power supply.


Unfortunately you have used a phrase here that also has a distinct
engineering meaning namely a previous power supply technology that used
to work by having a big chunk of iron transformer rectifying it and then
having a voltage regulator that dissipated the excess unwanted voltage
as heat to leave a nice smooth output at high current.

Switched mode PSU is the exact antithesis of linear PSU. Being highly
efficient at turning low current high voltage into high current low
voltage with a minimum of weight and heat.

In addition because LED devices are current driven the PSU used with
them is by a regulated current source rather than a voltage.

Halogen is just a crap option for indoors. Some people love them of course, but then some people drive Trabants.

Very insightful. It's for the kitchen not the toilet though.

What lighting would you actually recommend for a kitchen and for what
reasons?


I find a mixture of LED and LED spotlamps in classic spotlamp fixtures
works OK. The design allows enough airflow to allow them to stay cool.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown


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On 23/01/2017 21:33, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jan 2017 13:11:46 +0000, Martin Brown
wrote:

On 21/01/2017 18:16, Scott wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jan 2017 18:03:03 +0000, Lee
wrote:

On 21/01/2017 17:56, Lee wrote:
On 20/01/2017 14:41, Brian Gaff wrote:
Have you also checked to see what interference they can chuck out.
some are
terrible, one assumes the dreaded switch mode psu.
Brian

Most of the more recent ones seem to be capacitive dropper...

^^^^ "some" not "most"

As a matter of interest, why to the 12 Volt ones seem to be more
problematic than the mains ones?


The 12v ones tend to be powered by a toroidal transformer expecting to
drive a lot more current into the original quartz halogen lamp fittings.


That is the position with mine. I was told (rightly or wrongly) that
there is no minimum load for a toroidal transformer. You seem to be
suggesting that the voltage can increase, but I thought these lamps
could cope with up to 24 volts anyway.


The transformer is quite happy with the load it is just that it outputs
somewhat more than its nominal voltage when it is so weakly loaded since
it is designed to deliver a fairly high current output at 12v.

Halogen lamps require a substantial current and run mad hot so the
fittings are designed to insulate the ceiling from the very hot lamp.


In my case the lamps are on a track so I don't think they are
particularly thermally insulated. There is plenty of air surrounding.


It is the ones built into the ceiling fittings that fail very often.

This is almost a perfect storm for an LED bulb PSU. No way to convect
away hot air and a PSU that is over voltage due to an out of spec load.
They should be able to cope with the higher voltage within reason but
they cannot cope with having a running temperature much above 95C
without significantly shortening their lifetime.


Does this cause RF interference or simply a problem with lifespan?


Cooks the capacitors. I have yet to see significant RF interference off
any that I have bought even somewhat dodgy Chinese ones. I have largely
given up on DAB radio though - internet streaming works a lot better.

Think I'll go back to halogen lamps and make energy savings in some
other way (or maybe plant a tree as carbon offset). .


--
Regards,
Martin Brown
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Default LED lamps, source and value

In article ,
wrote:
On Sunday, 22 January 2017 15:11:57 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:


Linear fluorescent used to be a fairly good option if done properly,
not some ugly bare switchstart fitting on the ceiling. Now LED
strips are better as they're more controllable, lower cost, less of
a pain to get & stock. Both are diffuse light sources, giving
clearer vision, especially useful in a kitchen.


I'm not convinced LEDs are as easy to look at directly as a
fluorescent tube.


In decently designed lighting the bare lamps are not directly visible.



Any cover over the light source is going to reduce the light it produces.

It's quite common to have exposed fluorescent tubes in places where it is
simply working light.

Once you decide that what the fitting looks like - and the quality of the
light it produces - LEDs are often not the best answer. Yet.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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Default LED lamps, source and value

On Tuesday, 24 January 2017 11:13:33 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 22 January 2017 15:11:57 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:


Linear fluorescent used to be a fairly good option if done properly,
not some ugly bare switchstart fitting on the ceiling. Now LED
strips are better as they're more controllable, lower cost, less of
a pain to get & stock. Both are diffuse light sources, giving
clearer vision, especially useful in a kitchen.

I'm not convinced LEDs are as easy to look at directly as a
fluorescent tube.


In decently designed lighting the bare lamps are not directly visible.



Any cover over the light source is going to reduce the light it produces.

It's quite common to have exposed fluorescent tubes in places where it is
simply working light.


Most people know no different. Concealed fluorescents can make genuinely good lighting.


Once you decide that what the fitting looks like - and the quality of the
light it produces - LEDs are often not the best answer. Yet.


They have advantages for kitchen use, under cupboard in particular. Watch the light quality, it's very variable and sometimes not the CCT claimed.


NT
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Default LED lamps, source and value

In article ,
wrote:
Any cover over the light source is going to reduce the light it
produces.

It's quite common to have exposed fluorescent tubes in places where it
is simply working light.


Most people know no different. Concealed fluorescents can make genuinely
good lighting.


Indeed. But aren't so efficient. Everyone seems to want LEDs because they
cost less to run. If that isn't the most important thing, they aren't the
only choice.


Once you decide that what the fitting looks like - and the quality of
the light it produces - LEDs are often not the best answer. Yet.


They have advantages for kitchen use, under cupboard in particular.
Watch the light quality, it's very variable and sometimes not the CCT
claimed.


This is the problem. Although simply using any old fluorescent tube isn't
going to give the best light quality either.

--
*It's a thankless job, but I've got a lot of Karma to burn off

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default LED lamps, source and value

On Tuesday, 24 January 2017 13:05:36 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
Any cover over the light source is going to reduce the light it
produces.

It's quite common to have exposed fluorescent tubes in places where it
is simply working light.


Most people know no different. Concealed fluorescents can make genuinely
good lighting.


Indeed. But aren't so efficient. Everyone seems to want LEDs because they
cost less to run. If that isn't the most important thing, they aren't the
only choice.


Once you decide that what the fitting looks like - and the quality of
the light it produces - LEDs are often not the best answer. Yet.


They have advantages for kitchen use, under cupboard in particular.
Watch the light quality, it's very variable and sometimes not the CCT
claimed.


This is the problem. Although simply using any old fluorescent tube isn't
going to give the best light quality either.


Florries are what they claim. LEDs often aren't.


NT


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Default LED lamps, source and value

hi guys,

if you're looking for lights replacement, you could contact me for details, I'm led lighting factory, with high quality and good price.

Vince

Skype: centurylight08
WhatsApp:+86 186 7639 5120
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