Dry Verges
 

There seems to be a move to retro-fit plastic dry verges these
days, with plenty of firms touting for business.

My cement tiled roof is due for some attention, and I don't do
aerial clambering.

Are they a good idea? What are they screwed into?

What sort of prices are reasonable? I am in a semi, but next door
is lower, so I effectively have two gable ends.

Unusually for me, I was curious enough to allow a caller at my
door to give me a price, which started at £550, then dropped by
£100. I've just had a flyer for another outfit (devoid of street
address) which would be £298.

What dodges do the unscrupulous use, about which I should be
wary?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

Dry Verges
 

On 24/11/2016 13:23, Chris J Dixon wrote:
There seems to be a move to retro-fit plastic dry verges these
days, with plenty of firms touting for business.

My cement tiled roof is due for some attention, and I don't do
aerial clambering.

Are they a good idea? What are they screwed into?

What sort of prices are reasonable? I am in a semi, but next door
is lower, so I effectively have two gable ends.

Unusually for me, I was curious enough to allow a caller at my
door to give me a price, which started at £550, then dropped by
£100. I've just had a flyer for another outfit (devoid of street
address) which would be £298.

What dodges do the unscrupulous use, about which I should be
wary?

Chris

I think they screw to the fascia. They look awful though - retrofit ones
in particular.
Mortar always cracks after a few years - I guess it can't cope with the
movement caused by thermal expansion/contraction of the different
materials. I'm surprised no-one seems to have come up with a permanent,
UV-proof, flexible (and cheap) alternative filler to cement-based mortar.

--
Reentrant

Dry Verges
 

On Thursday, 24 November 2016 13:23:17 UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote:
There seems to be a move to retro-fit plastic dry verges these
days, with plenty of firms touting for business.

My cement tiled roof is due for some attention, and I don't do
aerial clambering.

Are they a good idea? What are they screwed into?

What sort of prices are reasonable? I am in a semi, but next door
is lower, so I effectively have two gable ends.

Unusually for me, I was curious enough to allow a caller at my
door to give me a price, which started at £550, then dropped by
£100. I've just had a flyer for another outfit (devoid of street
address) which would be £298.

What dodges do the unscrupulous use, about which I should be
wary?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

There's lots of different sorts.
Just Google.
Some is nailed on to the existing verge, some is nailed on to the top of the edge rafter.
Main advantage is in windy situations sops tile from blowing off too easily..

Dry Verges
 

On 24/11/2016 13:23, Chris J Dixon wrote:
There seems to be a move to retro-fit plastic dry verges these
days, with plenty of firms touting for business.

My cement tiled roof is due for some attention, and I don't do
aerial clambering.

Are they a good idea? What are they screwed into?

What sort of prices are reasonable? I am in a semi, but next door
is lower, so I effectively have two gable ends.

Unusually for me, I was curious enough to allow a caller at my
door to give me a price, which started at £550, then dropped by
£100. I've just had a flyer for another outfit (devoid of street
address) which would be £298.

What dodges do the unscrupulous use, about which I should be
wary?

Chris

Technically they are nonsense. A properly mortared end joint using
the correct amount of cement for bedding will last the life of the
property.

what is more important is the way the tiles and undercloak are
installed.

Small tiles need a hip effect at the end to stop water being
blown over the gable end and causing rot to the ends of the tile
battens and supports.

large concrete tiles like Marley Modern must be laid flat and
so the undercloak must tilt down about 3 degrees so that water
blown over the gable end runs down the outer edge and not
find its way back into and behind the barge boards.

Ask about 20 'roofers' how they install Marley Modern tiles
and you'll by lucky if even one knows the correct answer.
You should therefore assume that most of the people installing
dry verges, also haven't bothered to RTFM. A solidly mortared
verge is probably your best bet if you live in an exposed
area. In Southern Ireland it is standard practice to build
some shuttering along the end of the roof from ridge down
to gutter, infill with some chicken wire and create a solid
concrete slab about 8 inches wide and 4 inches deep to stop
extreme winds ripping the whole roof off.

Dry ridges and verges are used by the big builders because
it is quicker and looks tidy.

The storm we had in October 2013 ripped a few of these plastic
end panels off on a few houses where I live.

Dry Verges
 

On 24/11/2016 13:23, Chris J Dixon wrote:
There seems to be a move to retro-fit plastic dry verges these
days, with plenty of firms touting for business.

My cement tiled roof is due for some attention, and I don't do
aerial clambering.

Are they a good idea? What are they screwed into?

What sort of prices are reasonable? I am in a semi, but next door
is lower, so I effectively have two gable ends.

Unusually for me, I was curious enough to allow a caller at my
door to give me a price, which started at £550, then dropped by
£100. I've just had a flyer for another outfit (devoid of street
address) which would be £298.

What dodges do the unscrupulous use, about which I should be
wary?

They're screwed into the ends of the roofing battens.

We've had anthracite (colour) cement tiles (look like thick slates) on
the extention and the plastic dry-verge of the same colour looks spot-on.

The best thing about them is where cloaked(?) tiles aren't available
which they weren't for our tiles is they get rid of the need to have the
tiles mortar-fixed but.... as a retro-fit item on an old roof, the
mortar-fixed perimeter concrete tiles won't be nail-fixed as I believe
is the requirement for current roofing standards so I'd be wary of the
fact that
a) Your tiles won't be drilled for nail (mechanical fixing)
b) They'll be removing the only form of secure tile fixing on the
leading edge of the tiles.

Yes the dry-verge should prevent the wind from catching the tiles and
ripping the whole lot off but I'd want more than a bit of plastic and 1
screw doing this job especially in a windy location.

The following might help:
klober.co.uk/media/uploads/56fd46cb14bbf.pdf

Dry Verges
 

It happens that Reentrant formulated :
On 24/11/2016 13:23, Chris J Dixon wrote:
There seems to be a move to retro-fit plastic dry verges these
days, with plenty of firms touting for business.

My cement tiled roof is due for some attention, and I don't do
aerial clambering.

Are they a good idea? What are they screwed into?

What sort of prices are reasonable? I am in a semi, but next door
is lower, so I effectively have two gable ends.

Unusually for me, I was curious enough to allow a caller at my
door to give me a price, which started at £550, then dropped by
£100. I've just had a flyer for another outfit (devoid of street
address) which would be £298.

What dodges do the unscrupulous use, about which I should be
wary?

Chris

I think they screw to the fascia. They look awful though - retrofit ones in
particular.
Mortar always cracks after a few years - I guess it can't cope with the
movement caused by thermal expansion/contraction of the different materials.
I'm surprised no-one seems to have come up with a permanent, UV-proof,
flexible (and cheap) alternative filler to cement-based mortar.

Mortar, done properly will last for decades. That is how ours was done
70 years ago, using quite a poor mix, but it lasted until 15 years ago.
Then I replaced it with a better mix.

I used two lengths of angle iron as a former, welded together, one laid
on the tiles, the second to touch the wall and just filled up in
between. I waited until the mortar was near set, then slide it up the
roof, to do the next section. There is no signs of movement or cracking
anywhere - the mortar will move with the wall, the tiles move with the
wall and mortar expansion, so why would it crack?

Getting back to the original question, scaffold hire will take care of
much of those quotes, which suggests they will be working off ladders.
It is not the sort of job that can be done properly from ladder, so
they must be skimping somewhere. I suspect in the quality of the
workmanship - expect them to blow away in the first gale.

Dry Verges
 

Am I the only one who read the subject line and thought "lube"?

Dry Verges
 

On 24/11/2016 18:51, GB wrote:
Am I the only one who read the subject line and thought "lube"?

No... I had to re-read it too.
:)

Dry Verges
 

stick to Tifting ....

Dry Verges
 

GB wrote

Am I the only one who read the subject line and thought "lube"?

Very likely. I thought it was talking about grass verges of roads.

We don’t use that term here for anything to do with roofs.

Dry Verges
 

On 24/11/2016 18:51, GB wrote:
Am I the only one who read the subject line and thought "lube"?


I wanted your soft verges
But you gave me the hard shoulder.

(Adrian Henri)

Cheers
--
Syd

Dry Verges
 

On Thursday, 24 November 2016 22:17:22 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
Very likely. I thought it was talking about grass verges of roads.

So did I; or something dental - but that's dry socket

Owain

Dry Verges
 

www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

The following might help:
klober.co.uk/media/uploads/56fd46cb14bbf.pdf

Thanks, that certainly gives enough to ask very pertinent
question of potential installers, if I go that way.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.