Floating wood floor.
 

Last year laid down a floating wood floor, now i have a problem with
it cupping in a couple of places.

The wood is soft pine T&G glued together and ronseal diamond hard
about 4 coats, looks good apart from the cupping and springy (bounce)
of the planks of wood when i stand on it in a couple of places.
The subfloor is concrete with a vapour barrior and underlay combined.
Their is a gap all way round the edges to allow for expansion.

I could remove the offending plank about 6 planks in from one edge and
glue and
re-varnish but i know this will show when i varnish it again
(overlap).
Could re sand the whole floor, but the diamond hard varnish is rock
hard and would take many hours, already tried this on a scrap piece of
wood.
I was toying with the idea of hiring a hilti nail gun and fire nails
through the wood and into the concrete, i have spoken to the hire
company and this can be done. Quite expensive to hire, nails and
cartridges are the biggest expensive.
I have seen that you can now buy concrete screws, thought of screwing
through the wood and into the concrete subfloor.

Has anyone got any suggestion what i should do.

Thanks.

Floating wood floor.
 

ian wrote:

Last year laid down a floating wood floor, now i have a problem with
it cupping in a couple of places.

The wood is soft pine T&G glued together and ronseal diamond hard
about 4 coats, looks good apart from the cupping and springy (bounce)
of the planks of wood when i stand on it in a couple of places.
The subfloor is concrete with a vapour barrior and underlay combined.
Their is a gap all way round the edges to allow for expansion.

I could remove the offending plank about 6 planks in from one edge and
glue and
re-varnish but i know this will show when i varnish it again
(overlap).
Could re sand the whole floor, but the diamond hard varnish is rock
hard and would take many hours, already tried this on a scrap piece of
wood.
I was toying with the idea of hiring a hilti nail gun and fire nails
through the wood and into the concrete, i have spoken to the hire
company and this can be done. Quite expensive to hire, nails and
cartridges are the biggest expensive.
I have seen that you can now buy concrete screws, thought of screwing
through the wood and into the concrete subfloor.

Has anyone got any suggestion what i should do.

Thanks.


Do teh same as mee, wait for winter and central heating to get it back
in shape :-0)

Alternatively, put heavy weights on. With luck it will 'conform' eventually.

Floating wood floor.
 

Tried the heavy weight, seems to work for about two days then starts
pushing up.

I agree the central heating will shrink the planks, i was amazed how
much they did shrink around the edges of the wall under the skirting
boards last winter. (did a proper job removed the skirting boards,
that wasnt easy but better looking).
I am tempted to remove the skirting to see if there is a gap around
the edges i know i had left some expansion, maybe not enough.

Floating wood floor.
 

In message
(ian) wrote:

Last year laid down a floating wood floor, now i have a problem with
it cupping in a couple of places.

The wood is soft pine T&G glued together and ronseal diamond hard
about 4 coats, looks good apart from the cupping and springy (bounce)
of the planks of wood when i stand on it in a couple of places.
The subfloor is concrete with a vapour barrior and underlay combined.
Their is a gap all way round the edges to allow for expansion.

[snip]

Is it not customary to paint both sides of such particularly soft
timber to reduce bowing?.

If the planks are only painted on one side they will tend to warp or
pull up as the coating dries.

Or was the timber already pre-treated?.

Steve.



--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
StrongARM Powered Risc PC 600, 80Mb + 2MbVram, RISC OS 4
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.

Floating wood floor.
 

In message
(ian) wrote:

If the planks are only painted on one side they will tend to warp or
pull up as the coating dries.

The wood wasnt painted on both sides as i wasnt aware that it needed
to be done, im only a novice.
The floor was fine for a good 6 months, but i guess its dried out
further hence the cupping.
I cant exactly paint the underside now can i.

Please only usefull comments on which method i should choose to fix.

Thanks

I suppose you weren't to know that applying an additional coating to the
underside can help stop warping as both surfaces would therefore dry more
evenly and would'nt be working against each other as they dry.
Warping doesn't happen so much with seasoned softwood or hardwoods.

Applying four coats of varnish on one side only will create warping
especially on soft untreated timbers.

Unfortunately I've no idea what to suggest on how to remedy your problem
other than what other posters have previously suggested. :)

Steve.



--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
StrongARM Powered Risc PC 600, 80Mb + 2MbVram, RISC OS 4
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.