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That gap around the sockets
I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that
shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? Cheers - Pete --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
That gap around the sockets
On Monday, 29 August 2016 22:35:27 UTC+1, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? Cheers - Pete Putting PVA in the filler and backing it with something help. NT |
That gap around the sockets
On 29/08/2016 22:35, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? Cheers - Pete --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Decorators caulk? -- Dave - The Medway Handyman |
That gap around the sockets
On 29/08/2016 22:35, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? You can get thin plastic finger protector plates designed to go behind sockets and switches - they create a 1" (ish) wide boarder round the back edge of the faceplate that stops the wall getting finger prints all over it. Also handy for hiding gaps. e.g: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004GU8J3A -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
That gap around the sockets
On 29/08/2016 23:29, David Lang wrote:
--- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.con/antivirus is SPAMWARE Was that me that's been hijacked by bloody Avast? That's it, AVAST has now been removed and replaced by Avira! Decorators caulk? Unfortunately the problem lies in that the back box isn't flush with the surface of the plasterboard so there's nothing to give it (or any other filler) structural stability, i.e. you're trying to fill a 1 sided hole which is doomed to failure. |
That gap around the sockets
On 30/08/2016 00:29, John Rumm wrote:
You can get thin plastic finger protector plates designed to go behind sockets and switches - they create a 1" (ish) wide boarder round the back edge of the faceplate that stops the wall getting finger prints all over it. Also handy for hiding gaps. e.g: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004GU8J3A The idea of even more plastic isn't really doing it for me. I suppose I might be able to chop up some spare back boxes to make some sort of extension to extend the box to the face of the plasterboard thereby enabling a better chance of successful filling... Cheers Pete |
That gap around the sockets
On Tue, 30 Aug 2016 00:56:22 +0100, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)
wrote: On 30/08/2016 00:29, John Rumm wrote: You can get thin plastic finger protector plates designed to go behind sockets and switches - they create a 1" (ish) wide boarder round the back edge of the faceplate that stops the wall getting finger prints all over it. Also handy for hiding gaps. e.g: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004GU8J3A The idea of even more plastic isn't really doing it for me. I suppose I might be able to chop up some spare back boxes to make some sort of extension to extend the box to the face of the plasterboard thereby enabling a better chance of successful filling... Cheers Pete You can get a very thin plastic frame that would typically be used to gain a few mm of depth when (say) fitting a dimmer switch where an ordinary switch was. When I fitted one for my daughter last year I was surprised how unnoticeable it was especially as the switch faceplate was metallic -- Graham. %Profound_observation% |
That gap around the sockets
On 30/08/2016 01:09, Graham. wrote:
You can get a very thin plastic frame that would typically be used to gain a few mm of depth when (say) fitting a dimmer switch where an ordinary switch was. When I fitted one for my daughter last year I was surprised how unnoticeable it was especially as the switch faceplate was metallic That sounds like it might work Graham. I'll see what I can find. |
That gap around the sockets
On Tue, 30 Aug 2016 01:29:37 +0100, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)
wrote: On 30/08/2016 01:09, Graham. wrote: You can get a very thin plastic frame that would typically be used to gain a few mm of depth when (say) fitting a dimmer switch where an ordinary switch was. When I fitted one for my daughter last year I was surprised how unnoticeable it was especially as the switch faceplate was metallic That sounds like it might work Graham. I'll see what I can find. "switch spacer" seems to find them. -- Graham. %Profound_observation% |
That gap around the sockets
On 30/08/2016 01:55, Graham. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Aug 2016 01:29:37 +0100, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote: On 30/08/2016 01:09, Graham. wrote: You can get a very thin plastic frame that would typically be used to gain a few mm of depth when (say) fitting a dimmer switch where an ordinary switch was. When I fitted one for my daughter last year I was surprised how unnoticeable it was especially as the switch faceplate was metallic That sounds like it might work Graham. I'll see what I can find. "switch spacer" seems to find them. CPC do them IIRC - they add 10mm of depth to a backbox -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
That gap around the sockets
On 29/08/16 22:35, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? Cheers - Pete decorators caulk. -- All political activity makes complete sense once the proposition that all government is basically a self-legalising protection racket, is fully understood. |
That gap around the sockets
On 29/08/16 22:35, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? Cheers - Pete --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Can you replace the backbox with a plasterboard backbox? These have a decent lip all around. |
That gap around the sockets
On 30/08/2016 02:42, John Rumm wrote:
"switch spacer" seems to find them. CPC do them IIRC - they add 10mm of depth to a backbox Screwfix has 'em. I'll pick one up and see if it has legs for this alternative use. http://www.screwfix.com/p/schneider-...er-white/2105j Cheers All. Pete |
That gap around the sockets
On Monday, 29 August 2016 22:35:27 UTC+1, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? Cheers - Pete --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Take the box out & replace with some packing behind it so it's level with the surface. Fill any gap with decorator's caulk or plaster mixed with PVA. |
That gap around the sockets
On Tuesday, 30 August 2016 00:29:39 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 29/08/2016 22:35, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote: I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? You can get thin plastic finger protector plates designed to go behind sockets and switches - they create a 1" (ish) wide boarder round the back edge of the faceplate that stops the wall getting finger prints all over it. Also handy for hiding gaps. e.g: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004GU8J3A If it's out by that much, the next deeper box could be fitted. |
That gap around the sockets
On 30/08/2016 07:37, Tim Watts wrote:
Can you replace the backbox with a plasterboard backbox? These have a decent lip all around. They're all wired up and plastered in otherwise I could have pulled them forwards a bit and squeezed some gripfill through the screw holes in the back to fix them further forward but they're all crazy foamed in and trying to move them will most likely do more damage to the surrounding skim than trying to fill the gap I fear. Cheers Pete |
That gap around the sockets
Can you not just get some of those snazzy plastic flange things they put
around light switches etc? You can even get glow in the dark ones. Of course how one finds some for double sockets, I'm not sure. Brian -- ----- - This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please! "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote in message ... I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? Cheers - Pete --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
That gap around the sockets
On 30/08/2016 00:39, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
On 29/08/2016 23:29, David Lang wrote: --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.con/antivirus is SPAMWARE Was that me that's been hijacked by bloody Avast? That's it, AVAST has now been removed and replaced by Avira! Decorators caulk? Unfortunately the problem lies in that the back box isn't flush with the surface of the plasterboard so there's nothing to give it (or any other filler) structural stability, i.e. you're trying to fill a 1 sided hole which is doomed to failure. Try cutting some card to slide between the back box and the plasterboard (shiny side out) to support the filler while it goes off. It can help to support the card in contact with the filler with some folded card going across the box. It helps to use one of the really lightweight fillers which can be sanded easily :) -- Robin reply-to address is (intended to be) valid |
That gap around the sockets
On Monday, 29 August 2016 22:35:27 UTC+1, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Squirty foam, then sand fill and paint. As well as plastic surrounds you can also get wood eg http://www.screwfix.com/p/varilight-...finished/7327J TLC may have a wider range. |
That gap around the sockets
"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)" wrote
in message ... On 30/08/2016 07:37, Tim Watts wrote: Can you replace the backbox with a plasterboard backbox? These have a decent lip all around. They're all wired up and plastered in otherwise I could have pulled them forwards a bit and squeezed some gripfill through the screw holes in the back to fix them further forward but they're all crazy foamed in and trying to move them will most likely do more damage to the surrounding skim than trying to fill the gap I fear. Then foam the gaps and use filler on it when it has set. -- Adam |
That gap around the sockets
Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)
Wrote in message: I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? Cheers - Pete --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus OK so here's the anal method if you are bugged by such things. As others have said, fill most of the depth of the gap almost up to the front of the back box with decorators caulk. Then get some stiff card and cut a long 1" wide strip. Carefully bend the card and sellotape it into a hollow rectangular "tube" 1" long that fits precisely into the inside of the rectangular back box. If you make these "tubes" carefully then they will push in as far as the fixing lugs on each side of the back box and stay put. Then this gives you a face to fill up to with the finishing filler. When the filler is set you flex the rectangular tube away from the filler and remove. Then use in another box (or make a few tubes and do loads at once). My kitchen was finish skimmed before I did the electrics (don't ask) and it is not possible to see the filler and it hasn't cracked so the method is good for at least 4 years. Hope you can follow the explanation. Phil -- ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/ |
That gap around the sockets
In article ,
Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote: I've never really found an acceptable solution to the annoying gap that shows above, below or to one side of a socket/switch after plasterboard wasn't cut just right to line up with the back boxes. Unfortunately I have a significant number of sockets and switches with 1/4" gap that the face plates don't cover (builders error but probably better than I could have done) The trick is to put the plasterboard up first. It is then dead easy to cut out a perfect fit for the box. Attempting to fit plasterboard round and existing box requires accuracy few have the skills or time for. In the past I've tried everything from grip-fill to attempting to filler the gap, filler being perhaps the least effective solution. Anyone got any better ways that won't crack out? Decorator's caulk. But you will need several applications as it shrinks. Persevere, and you will get an excellent job that won't crack. -- *Many hamsters only blink one eye at a time * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
That gap around the sockets
On 30/08/2016 07:57, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
On 30/08/2016 07:37, Tim Watts wrote: Can you replace the backbox with a plasterboard backbox? These have a decent lip all around. They're all wired up and plastered in otherwise I could have pulled them forwards a bit and squeezed some gripfill through the screw holes in the back to fix them further forward but they're all crazy foamed in and trying to move them will most likely do more damage to the surrounding skim than trying to fill the gap I fear. Cheers Pete fit a spare box in the hole, fill around it and remove the spare box. If you don't have a spare, make one out of a cereal box and duct tape. |
That gap around the sockets
On 2016-08-30, ?Q?Pet_ _www.gymratz.co.uk_ =c2=ac=29?= wrote:
On 30/08/2016 02:42, John Rumm wrote: "switch spacer" seems to find them. CPC do them IIRC - they add 10mm of depth to a backbox Screwfix has 'em. I'll pick one up and see if it has legs for this alternative use. http://www.screwfix.com/p/schneider-...er-white/2105j Thanks for pointing that out --- I think I can use those for some similar issues. |
That gap around the sockets
On 2016-08-31, dennis home wrote:
fit a spare box in the hole, fill around it and remove the spare box. If you don't have a spare, make one out of a cereal box and duct tape. I can't find a picture on the WWW, but earlier this summer I saw someone wearing this on a t-shirt: REDNECK ELECTRICIAN (cartoon of someone on a shaky ladder, using a power tool on an extension lead, over a full bath) It's SHOCKING what you can do with duct tape! |
That gap around the sockets
On 31/08/2016 08:18, dennis@home wrote:
fit a spare box in the hole, fill around it and remove the spare box. That's not a bad idea. Didn't get into screwfix to pick up the plastic extension bit yet. I was thinking about cutting a spare box into rectangular sections to leave in as permanent "wall" to give the filler a solid backing but each section might just turn into 4 individual bits. |
That gap around the sockets
On 30/08/2016 20:09, TheChief wrote:
OK so here's the anal method if you are bugged by such things. As others have said, fill most of the depth of the gap almost up to the front of the back box with decorators caulk. Then get some stiff card and cut a long 1" wide strip. Carefully bend the card and sellotape it into a hollow rectangular "tube" 1" long that fits precisely into the inside of the rectangular back box. If you make these "tubes" carefully then they will push in as far as the fixing lugs on each side of the back box and stay put. Then this gives you a face to fill up to with the finishing filler. When the filler is set you flex the rectangular tube away from the filler and remove. Then use in another box (or make a few tubes and do loads at once). My kitchen was finish skimmed before I did the electrics (don't ask) and it is not possible to see the filler and it hasn't cracked so the method is good for at least 4 years. Hope you can follow the explanation. Phil Thanks Phil. Makes perfect sense. Some sockets are really bad and others just tickle under the edge of the socket. I have plenty of ideas to try now though. Thanks everyone for your input. Cheers - Pete |
That gap around the sockets
i always have a firefoam can and gun on the go
so just squirt it in, when dry scrape some out and use polyfilla |
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