Anyone ever done one of these at all, the wall mount split system ones?

Be interested to know of what experiences anyone has had.

Cheers...

--
Tony Sayer

On Wed, 20 Jul 2016 23:53:34 +0100, tony sayer
wrote:


Anyone ever done one of these at all, the wall mount split system ones?

Yup, me. ;-)

Be interested to know of what experiences anyone has had.

Well, it was pretty straightforward really (but that may depend on the
make and model etc).

As it happened I had a hole though the outside wall that was there for
a wall mounted gas heater flue and the hoses came with isolation
valves and quick connects that made splitting the hoses easy.

I mounted the external unit on the outside wall (I think I 'hangs'
from two screws first then held down with one or two more), poked the
two gas hoses, one condensate drain hose and one cable (to power the
fan, from memory) back though the hole and hooked them up to the floor
standing unit inside.

As an aside ... a mate had one of the low level wall mounted units
fitted and has since remove and re-fitted it himself but it wasn't a
split unit but one with a through wall hose.

Yesterday I *fixed* [1] the small exhaust hose though wall unit he
picked up a couple of years ago for his shop by cleaning the main
filter and stripping the panels and cleaning the dust from the hot
side rad (that didn't have a filter for some reason).

Cheers, T i m

[1] It also involved 3D printing an adaptor plate to convert the large
hole on the output to the smaller hose he had though the wall to
minimise the leakage of hot air back into the system and causing it to
shut the compressor down. He has a bigger unit on it's way tomorrow so
I can see my core drill being required again. ;-)

tony sayer wrote:
Anyone ever done one of these at all, the wall mount split system ones?

Be interested to know of what experiences anyone has had.

Cheers...



I've fitted 3. All 1200BTHU. I first mount the outside unit on a
wooden platform from 50mm thick timbers about 1 to 2.5 ft above the
ground. The unit is heavy! The robust wall brackets come from
Toolstation or Wickes. As the unit needs to pull air through the fan I
space the units 75mm+ from the wall for ventilation. The exact position
is determined by local obstructions. Remove the indoor unit housing at
this tage. I very carefully work out the indoor unit location and mark
it up, I drill a 60mm approx hole in 3 stages(6mm pilot through the
wall from inside and then 60mm core drill from each side of the cavity
to reduce spalling at breakthrough) where I want the indoor copper
pipework to come through the wall, position the indoor unit mounting
frame where I need it to be to allow the pipes on the indoor to pass
through the wall after being carefully bent to be at right angles to the
indoor unit. The pipes will pass easily through a cavity wall IME,
allowing the copper connections to be made outside. The large hole will
also allow the electrical cable to pass through to the outside unit.
Having given the indoor unit a first trial fit, I then determine where
the condensate tube pass through hole needs to be at the other end of
the unit and drill a 20mm approx hole for this. At this stage, I mount
the indoor unit with all the wires and condensate tube attached and
passed through the wall. You may have to take more of the housing off
the indoor unit to connect the wires. The coupling copper pipework
supplied coiled IME is a pain to unbend, rebend without kinking. Care
is required and it is usually too long. As the coupling flares are
critical to getting a fully gas tight seal I've never cut the pipework
back. Aircon pipe work is brazed, not soldered IME. The next stage is to
determine how the bent pipework is going to run and where the spare
pipework is going to be lost! Think long and hard before this stage as
mistakes are painful! Then very carefully bend/unbend and connect the
pipework, temporarily, fixing the external unit end first as it gives a
rigid mounting. Keep bends as shallow as possible. The foam insulation
on the copper pipework is not bird claw proof so it needs covering
either with the tape supplied or a quick and dirty wooden preservative
coated piece of fabricated trunking. Before the covering stage, loosen
the pipe connections and apply minimal quantities of refrigerant sealing
compound to the connections before tightening the pipework up. At this
stage offer up a couple of prayers and release the gas stored in the
outside unit into the indoor unit. Do not run off too much gas or
cooling/heating will not be effective. Switch on the unit and you should
be in business. Fix the electrical cables as desired. Decide where you
want the condensate tube to run and fix it, cutting it back as required.
Give it a day or 2 then fix the trunking if required. Mine are all
still running OK, the oldest in the garage is 8 years. I mainly use them
for heating. Probably missed out a bit of experience as I did the last
one about 3 years ago and the memory is failing a bit these days! As
they will probably need regassing after 10 years make sure that the
engineer can easily access the gas connections with his regas pipe
connections. He might be a large individual so access space is advisable!

On 20/07/2016 23:53, tony sayer wrote:

Anyone ever done one of these at all, the wall mount split system ones?

Be interested to know of what experiences anyone has had.

Cheers...



Yes.
I fitted one from vyair but they don't appear to do them anymore.

It was one where the compressor is out side and the inside unit is a fan
and a big radiator.

Easy to do..

put wall plate on wall,
core drill for the hoses
poke hoses through and multi-core lead for the compressor (the controls
are in the internal unit)
connect the quick connect connectors and the power plug to the outside unit
connect the inside unit to a 20A feed (that's what it said even though
draws less than 2kW)
Turn it on.

Gives ~5k of cooling or heat.

On 2016-07-21 14:42, dennis@home wrote:

connect the inside unit to a 20A feed (that's what it said even though
draws less than 2kW)

Most of that ~2 kW is motor = big start-up surge.

I fitted one from vyair but they don't appear to do them anymore.

A modern unit might have an electronic motor controller (VFD) which
can reduce the surge.


--
Graham Nye
news(a)thenyes.org.uk

In article ,
pamela writes:
On 03:11 21 Jul 2016, Capitol wrote:

tony sayer wrote:
Anyone ever done one of these at all, the wall mount split
system ones?

Be interested to know of what experiences anyone has had.

Cheers...



I've fitted 3. All 1200BTHU. I first mount the outside unit on
a wooden platform from 50mm thick timbers about 1 to 2.5 ft
above the ground. The unit is heavy! The robust wall brackets
come from Toolstation or Wickes.

I fitted 2 - they came from B&Q 11 years ago.

One is still working fine - the other was damaged by builders
after about 6 years, and my parents decided they didn't want
to get it repaired.

As the unit needs to pull air through the fan I space the units
75mm+ from the wall for ventilation. The exact position is

I think mine specified much more than that.

determined by local obstructions. Remove the indoor unit housing
at this tage. I very carefully work out the indoor unit location
and mark it up, I drill a 60mm approx hole in 3 stages(6mm pilot
through the wall from inside and then 60mm core drill from each
side of the cavity to reduce spalling at breakthrough) where I
want the indoor copper pipework to come through the wall,

My bricks are like engineering bricks, so I took half a brick
out rather than trying to core bore the wall. I also made the
hole in the outer skin lower than the hole in the inner skin,
so the condensate drain would have a good slope through the wall.

position the indoor unit mounting frame where I need it to be to
allow the pipes on the indoor to pass through the wall after
being carefully bent to be at right angles to the indoor unit.
The pipes will pass easily through a cavity wall IME, allowing
the copper connections to be made outside.

It helps to have two people so someone can support the pipework
as you push it through the wall, although I managed one of the
installations with just me.

The large hole will also allow the electrical cable to pass
through to the outside unit. Having given the indoor unit a
first trial fit, I then determine where the condensate tube pass
through hole needs to be at the other end of the unit and drill
a 20mm approx hole for this. At this stage, I mount the indoor
unit with all the wires and condensate tube attached and passed
through the wall. You may have to take more of the housing off
the indoor unit to connect the wires.

The coupling copper pipework supplied coiled IME is a pain to
unbend, rebend without kinking. Care is required and it is
usually too long. As the coupling flares are critical to getting
a fully gas tight seal I've never cut the pipework back. Aircon
pipe work is brazed, not soldered IME. The next stage is to
determine how the bent pipework is going to run and where the
spare pipework is going to be lost! Think long and hard before
this stage as mistakes are painful! Then very carefully
bend/unbend and connect the pipework, temporarily, fixing the
external unit end first as it gives a rigid mounting. Keep bends
as shallow as possible. The foam insulation on the copper
pipework is not bird claw proof so it needs covering either with
the tape supplied or a quick and dirty wooden preservative
coated piece of fabricated trunking. Before the covering stage,
loosen the pipe connections and apply minimal quantities of
refrigerant sealing compound to the connections before
tightening the pipework up.

I used a gutter downpipe (white and square, so it matched the
existing gutter downpipes). I cut a slot in the back so it could
be clipped over the pipework afterwards.

At this stage offer up a couple of prayers and release the gas
stored in the outside unit into the indoor unit. Do not run off
too much gas or cooling/heating will not be effective.

Mine simply required connecting up a self-sealing connector
which carries the flow and return coolant. The refrigerant was
stored in the outer unit, and the inner unit was also sealed
(not sure if it had a some pressurised refrigerent although no
stored resovior, or if it had a vacuum).

Shouldn't you re-pressurise the system with top up coolant? But
presumably some sort of licence to handle refridgerants is needed
to meet regs.

I haven't needed to topup in 11 years, but the power consumption
has dropped a little, so it may be that I will need to at some
point in the future.

Yes, handling refrigerent became licensable a while back.
When I looked at the regs (and they might have changed since),
installing a self-fit pre-charged system doesn't need a license.
Searching for leaks, emptying (decommissioning), and refilling does.
Referigerant can only be supplied to people with a license, and
must be supplied in a returnable container, not a single-use one.
The license is simply having the requisit C&G certificate - it is
not paying to be a member of any trade body (they got that one
right, unlike the electrical ones).

Switch on the unit and you should be in business. Fix the
electrical cables as desired. Decide where you want the
condensate tube to run and fix it, cutting it back as required.
Give it a day or 2 then fix the trunking if required.

Mine are all still running OK, the oldest in the garage is 8
years. I mainly use them for heating. Probably missed out a bit
of experience as I did the last one about 3 years ago and the
memory is failing a bit these days! As they will probably need
regassing after 10 years make sure that the engineer can easily
access the gas connections with his regas pipe connections. He
might be a large individual so access space is advisable!

I bought mine for cooling, but I found I actually use it mainly for
heating.

Great write up. I wouldn't mind a split air con but it's far
beyond me to do any of this work, so I'll use it to understand any
quotes I get for the job. A guy at http://Aircon247.com says it's
about 3 to 4 hours work but your description makes it sound like
more.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 23/07/2016 19:29, pamela wrote:

While discussing a split air con unit, a salesman told me it's
cheaper to heat a room using a split system than gas central
heating. If that's true then is it working partly as a heat pump?

It is entirely working as a heat pump and a couple of fans.

"pamela" wrote in message
...
On 18:21 23 Jul 2016, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
pamela writes:
On 03:11 21 Jul 2016, Capitol wrote:

tony sayer wrote:
Anyone ever done one of these at all, the wall mount split
system ones?

Be interested to know of what experiences anyone has had.

Cheers...



I've fitted 3. All 1200BTHU. I first mount the outside unit
on a wooden platform from 50mm thick timbers about 1 to 2.5 ft
above the ground. The unit is heavy! The robust wall brackets
come from Toolstation or Wickes.

I fitted 2 - they came from B&Q 11 years ago.

One is still working fine - the other was damaged by builders
after about 6 years, and my parents decided they didn't want
to get it repaired.

As the unit needs to pull air through the fan I space the
units 75mm+ from the wall for ventilation. The exact position
is

I think mine specified much more than that.

determined by local obstructions. Remove the indoor unit
housing at this tage. I very carefully work out the indoor
unit location and mark it up, I drill a 60mm approx hole in 3
stages(6mm pilot through the wall from inside and then 60mm
core drill from each side of the cavity to reduce spalling at
breakthrough) where I want the indoor copper pipework to come
through the wall,

My bricks are like engineering bricks, so I took half a brick
out rather than trying to core bore the wall. I also made the
hole in the outer skin lower than the hole in the inner skin,
so the condensate drain would have a good slope through the
wall.

position the indoor unit mounting frame where I need it to be
to allow the pipes on the indoor to pass through the wall
after being carefully bent to be at right angles to the indoor
unit. The pipes will pass easily through a cavity wall IME,
allowing the copper connections to be made outside.

It helps to have two people so someone can support the pipework
as you push it through the wall, although I managed one of the
installations with just me.

The large hole will also allow the electrical cable to pass
through to the outside unit. Having given the indoor unit a
first trial fit, I then determine where the condensate tube
pass through hole needs to be at the other end of the unit and
drill a 20mm approx hole for this. At this stage, I mount the
indoor unit with all the wires and condensate tube attached
and passed through the wall. You may have to take more of the
housing off the indoor unit to connect the wires.

The coupling copper pipework supplied coiled IME is a pain to
unbend, rebend without kinking. Care is required and it is
usually too long. As the coupling flares are critical to
getting a fully gas tight seal I've never cut the pipework
back. Aircon pipe work is brazed, not soldered IME. The next
stage is to determine how the bent pipework is going to run
and where the spare pipework is going to be lost! Think long
and hard before this stage as mistakes are painful! Then very
carefully bend/unbend and connect the pipework, temporarily,
fixing the external unit end first as it gives a rigid
mounting. Keep bends as shallow as possible. The foam
insulation on the copper pipework is not bird claw proof so it
needs covering either with the tape supplied or a quick and
dirty wooden preservative coated piece of fabricated trunking.
Before the covering stage, loosen the pipe connections and
apply minimal quantities of refrigerant sealing compound to
the connections before tightening the pipework up.

I used a gutter downpipe (white and square, so it matched the
existing gutter downpipes). I cut a slot in the back so it could
be clipped over the pipework afterwards.

At this stage offer up a couple of prayers and release the gas
stored in the outside unit into the indoor unit. Do not run
off too much gas or cooling/heating will not be effective.

Mine simply required connecting up a self-sealing connector
which carries the flow and return coolant. The refrigerant was
stored in the outer unit, and the inner unit was also sealed
(not sure if it had a some pressurised refrigerent although no
stored resovior, or if it had a vacuum).

Shouldn't you re-pressurise the system with top up coolant? But
presumably some sort of licence to handle refridgerants is
needed to meet regs.

I haven't needed to topup in 11 years, but the power consumption
has dropped a little, so it may be that I will need to at some
point in the future.

Yes, handling refrigerent became licensable a while back.
When I looked at the regs (and they might have changed since),
installing a self-fit pre-charged system doesn't need a license.
Searching for leaks, emptying (decommissioning), and refilling
does. Referigerant can only be supplied to people with a
license, and must be supplied in a returnable container, not a
single-use one. The license is simply having the requisit C&G
certificate - it is not paying to be a member of any trade body
(they got that one right, unlike the electrical ones).

Switch on the unit and you should be in business. Fix the
electrical cables as desired. Decide where you want the
condensate tube to run and fix it, cutting it back as
required. Give it a day or 2 then fix the trunking if
required.

Mine are all still running OK, the oldest in the garage is 8
years. I mainly use them for heating. Probably missed out a
bit of experience as I did the last one about 3 years ago and
the memory is failing a bit these days! As they will probably
need regassing after 10 years make sure that the engineer can
easily access the gas connections with his regas pipe
connections. He might be a large individual so access space is
advisable!

I bought mine for cooling, but I found I actually use it mainly
for heating.

While discussing a split air con unit, a salesman told me it's
cheaper to heat a room using a split system than gas central
heating. If that's true then is it working partly as a heat pump?

Entirely as a heat pump, both when heating and cooling.

Great write up. I wouldn't mind a split air con but it's far
beyond me to do any of this work, so I'll use it to understand
any quotes I get for the job. A guy at http://Aircon247.com
says it's about 3 to 4 hours work but your description makes it
sound like more.

In article . com,
dennis@home writes:
On 23/07/2016 19:29, pamela wrote:

While discussing a split air con unit, a salesman told me it's
cheaper to heat a room using a split system than gas central
heating. If that's true then is it working partly as a heat pump?

It is entirely working as a heat pump and a couple of fans.

When heating, you also get the power consumption of the compressor
added on top of the pumped heat (although not when cooling - that's
lost outside).

Mine looks like it compensates by running the compressor at reduced
power when heating, presumably to limit the heating power into the
room to something not too extreme.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]