I have a cracked pane on my generic chinese woodburner. I see that there
are eBay suppliers who offer "cut to size", but if it is cheaper to buy
a standard size am I likely to have any trouble cutting it down? I'm not
an expert but I have cut a bit of window glass over the years.

Presumably it is borosilicate or other low expansion glass?

On 02/01/2016 16:25, newshound wrote:
I have a cracked pane on my generic chinese woodburner. I see that there
are eBay suppliers who offer "cut to size", but if it is cheaper to buy
a standard size am I likely to have any trouble cutting it down? I'm not
an expert but I have cut a bit of window glass over the years.

Presumably it is borosilicate or other low expansion glass?

I've not seen much of the woodburner glass, but the pieces that my local
glazing supply people gave me to play with* cut the same as the glass I
use for stained and/or fused glass. Perhaps needed a bit more pressure
to actually break along the score (the stuff I was given was thicker
than standard window-glass) - but if you've cut glass before you should
be OK.

*They wanted to see if I could bend the woodburner glass to shape for
them - for use in fancy woodburners. The glass didn't cooperate, and I
chickened out at 950 centrigade - normal stained / window glass bends
quite happily below 800c!

In article ,
Adrian Brentnall writes:
On 02/01/2016 16:25, newshound wrote:
I have a cracked pane on my generic chinese woodburner. I see that there
are eBay suppliers who offer "cut to size", but if it is cheaper to buy
a standard size am I likely to have any trouble cutting it down? I'm not
an expert but I have cut a bit of window glass over the years.

Presumably it is borosilicate or other low expansion glass?

It is very low expansion, but not borosilicate which softens at too
low a temperature. There are a few makes, but they are all basically
a transparent ceramic, and can operate well over 1000C.

I've not seen much of the woodburner glass, but the pieces that my local
glazing supply people gave me to play with* cut the same as the glass I
use for stained and/or fused glass. Perhaps needed a bit more pressure
to actually break along the score (the stuff I was given was thicker
than standard window-glass) - but if you've cut glass before you should
be OK.

*They wanted to see if I could bend the woodburner glass to shape for
them - for use in fancy woodburners. The glass didn't cooperate, and I
chickened out at 950 centrigade - normal stained / window glass bends
quite happily below 800c!

For the ceramic glasses, I suspect you need to go over 2000C. They
are used for discharge lamp arc tubes which run red-hot for years
whilst maintaining internal pressure.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sat, 2 Jan 2016 22:45:02 -0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

*They wanted to see if I could bend the woodburner glass to shape
for
them - for use in fancy woodburners. The glass didn't cooperate,
and I
chickened out at 950 centrigade - normal stained / window glass
bends
quite happily below 800c!

For the ceramic glasses, I suspect you need to go over 2000C. They
are used for discharge lamp arc tubes which run red-hot for years
whilst maintaining internal pressure.

Arc lamps with a burn time of years? But yes they do get flippin hot
and you really don't want to be any where near one when it lets go.
Same goes for halogen filament lamps. Getting deafened and showered
by visibly glowing red hot lumps of high velocity glass is not to be
recomended. The safety glass or lens doesn't always contain the
explosion...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sunday, 3 January 2016 01:28:07 UTC+1, Dave Liquorice wrote:
Getting deafened and showered by visibly glowing red hot lumps
of high velocity glass is not to be recommended.

I think we guessed! :-)