Most of my house is lit by ceiling-mounted triple spotlights which use 40W
R50 bulbs. Recently, three bulbs in the same position in one particular
fitting have blown within a short time of being fitted. One lasted about
thirty minutes, one almost three hours, the third survived into the next
day. I've checked as much of the unit as I could without wholesale
disassembly and found nothing obviously wrong.

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems unlikely,
is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole batch of them?
Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Many thanks, and a happy and healthy new year to one and all.

On 01/01/2016 12:29, Bert Coules wrote:
Most of my house is lit by ceiling-mounted triple spotlights which use
40W R50 bulbs. Recently, three bulbs in the same position in one
particular fitting have blown within a short time of being fitted. One
lasted about thirty minutes, one almost three hours, the third survived
into the next day. I've checked as much of the unit as I could without
wholesale disassembly and found nothing obviously wrong.

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them? Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Many thanks, and a happy and healthy new year to one and all.




I've had a similar problem with B&Q GU10 lamps, solved when I replaced
them with some from TLC.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

Dave, thanks for that. I've now put on my deerstalker, thought for a bit,
and initiated an experiment: I put a bulb from another room into the suspect
socket and the last remaining bulb from the possibly-dodgy batch in the
fitting in the other room. Later, I'll leave both lights switched on and
see what happens...

Incidentally the box of bulbs was from Homebase.

Bert

On 01/01/2016 12:29, Bert Coules wrote:
Most of my house is lit by ceiling-mounted triple spotlights which use
40W R50 bulbs. Recently, three bulbs in the same position in one
particular fitting have blown within a short time of being fitted. One
lasted about thirty minutes, one almost three hours, the third survived
into the next day. I've checked as much of the unit as I could without
wholesale disassembly and found nothing obviously wrong.

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them? Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Many thanks, and a happy and healthy new year to one and all.





It's either a dud batch, or there's something wrong with the connections
or wiring on that individual socket, causing arcing and effectively
turning the bulb on and off rapidly, reducing its life.

I think the first possibility (dud batch) is more likely, because you
should other wise be able to see some evidence of burnt contacts or
charred wires. You could check my hypothesis by swapping bulbs - putting
a known good bulb in the 'suspect' socket, and putting another new one
where that came from.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 01/01/16 12:29, Bert Coules wrote:
Most of my house is lit by ceiling-mounted triple spotlights which use
40W R50 bulbs. Recently, three bulbs in the same position in one
particular fitting have blown within a short time of being fitted. One
lasted about thirty minutes, one almost three hours, the third survived
into the next day. I've checked as much of the unit as I could without
wholesale disassembly and found nothing obviously wrong.

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them?

Very much so. Could be 'European' bulbs designed for a slightly lower
voltage



Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Many thanks, and a happy and healthy new year to one and all.


Consider LED R50 spotlights instead.



--
If you tell a lie big enough and keep repeating it, people will
eventually come to believe it. The lie can be maintained only for such
time as the State can shield the people from the political, economic
and/or military consequences of the lie. It thus becomes vitally
important for the State to use all of its powers to repress dissent, for
the truth is the mortal enemy of the lie, and thus by extension, the
truth is the greatest enemy of the State.
Joseph Goebbels

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote:

Consider LED R50 spotlights instead.

Thanks for the thought, though I'm not fond of LED lighting. Are the R50
ones dimmable?

Bert

Roger, thanks for that. I would have noticed any rapid switching on and
off, I think. And as you say, I didn't observe any signs of arcing.

Your post must have overlapped with my own follow-up, where I mentioned
trying exactly the experiment you propose.

Bert

"Bert Coules" wrote in message
o.uk...
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote:

Consider LED R50 spotlights instead.

Thanks for the thought, though I'm not fond of LED lighting. Are the R50
ones dimmable?


You can buy dimmable ones. But then you might have to change your dimmer
switch!

--
Adam

On 01/01/2016 13:22, Bert Coules wrote:

Roger, thanks for that. I would have noticed any rapid switching on and
off, I think. And as you say, I didn't observe any signs of arcing.

If a dodgy connection rapid switching could be triggered by vibration of
someone walking on the floor above.


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

"ARW" wrote:

You can buy dimmable ones. But then you might have to change your dimmer
switch!

Complications, complications... I think I'll try to sort out what I've got.
Thanks!

Bert

"alan_m" wrote:

If a dodgy connection rapid switching could be triggered by vibration of
someone walking on the floor above.

If that's the cause, I have a whole new set of problems: I live in a
bungalow.

Bert

Bert Coules wrote:
Most of my house is lit by ceiling-mounted triple spotlights which
use 40W R50 bulbs. Recently, three bulbs in the same position in one
particular fitting have blown within a short time of being fitted. One
lasted about thirty minutes, one almost three hours, the third
survived into the next day. I've checked as much of the unit as I
could without wholesale disassembly and found nothing obviously wrong.

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a
whole batch of them? Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Many thanks, and a happy and healthy new year to one and all.

I've got those in my office. They never seem to last very long.

In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them? Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

If it was B&Q, about par for the course. Bought some fittings from them
and all the supplied bulbs blew in short order. Got replacements from TLC
which have been fine.

--
*Why do overlook and oversee mean opposite things? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I'dbe tempted, when everything is cold and settled to move three from one
light to another and put the remainder of the new ones in a second fitting.
What should happen is that the ones from the new batch will all blow in the
other fitting. That would mean its the batch which are faulty, if on the
other hand the problem persists in the original fitting I'd get an exorcist
in asap!

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
Remember, if you don't like where I post
or what I say, you don't have to
read my posts! :-)
"Bert Coules" wrote in message
...
Most of my house is lit by ceiling-mounted triple spotlights which use 40W
R50 bulbs. Recently, three bulbs in the same position in one particular
fitting have blown within a short time of being fitted. One lasted about
thirty minutes, one almost three hours, the third survived into the next
day. I've checked as much of the unit as I could without wholesale
disassembly and found nothing obviously wrong.

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them? Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Many thanks, and a happy and healthy new year to one and all.

On 01/01/2016 13:45, Bert Coules wrote:
"alan_m" wrote:

If a dodgy connection rapid switching could be triggered by vibration
of someone walking on the floor above.

If that's the cause, I have a whole new set of problems: I live in a
bungalow.

Bert

:-)



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

Brian,

I have tried something along those lines, albeit with one bulb rather than
all three. Once it gets dark I'll switch on both fittings and see what
happens.

If the suspect unit starts spinning around and vomiting, I'll consider
getting supernatural help...

Bert

On 01/01/16 13:21, Bert Coules wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote:

Consider LED R50 spotlights instead.

Thanks for the thought, though I'm not fond of LED lighting. Are the
R50 ones dimmable?

Probably not.


Bert


--
Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have
guns, why should we let them have ideas?

Josef Stalin

Bert Coules expressed precisely :
All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems unlikely,
is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole batch of them?
Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Numerous places mistakenly sell lamps intended for 230v, whereas what
is needed for the UK is 240v lamps, which means they just don't last
very long.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Harry Bloomfield wrote:

Numerous places mistakenly sell lamps intended for 230v, whereas what is
needed for the UK is 240v...

I wondered if that could be it, but the blown bulbs were all clearly marked
as 240V.

Bert

An update: the lights were on for several hours last night, and were tried
again this morning. Neither the new bulb (in a non-suspect fitting) nor an
old and well-used bulb (in the possibly faulty fitting) have blown. Perhaps
I was just unlucky in the three bulbs which only lasted very briefly.

Thanks to everyone for the thoughts and suggestions.

Bert

On Friday, 1 January 2016 13:12:44 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 01/01/16 12:29, Bert Coules wrote:

Most of my house is lit by ceiling-mounted triple spotlights which use
40W R50 bulbs. Recently, three bulbs in the same position in one
particular fitting have blown within a short time of being fitted. One
lasted about thirty minutes, one almost three hours, the third survived
into the next day. I've checked as much of the unit as I could without
wholesale disassembly and found nothing obviously wrong.

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them?

Very much so. Could be 'European' bulbs designed for a slightly lower
voltage

220v bulbs have a life of about 300hrs ave on 240v, so it's not that.


NT

On Friday, 1 January 2016 13:23:18 UTC, Bert Coules wrote:
Roger, thanks for that. I would have noticed any rapid switching on and
off, I think.

not at 100 times a second you won't. It kills bulbs.


NT

On Friday, 1 January 2016 17:30:52 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Bert Coules expressed precisely :
All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems unlikely,
is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole batch of them?
Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Numerous places mistakenly sell lamps intended for 230v, whereas what
is needed for the UK is 240v lamps, which means they just don't last
very long.

230v filament lamps don't even exist. Harry as always!


NT

wrote:

Not at 100 times a second you won't. It kills bulbs.

I hadn't realised that the cycling would be that rapid; thanks.

expressed precisely :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 17:30:52 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Bert Coules expressed precisely :
All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems unlikely,
is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole batch of them?
Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Numerous places mistakenly sell lamps intended for 230v, whereas what
is needed for the UK is 240v lamps, which means they just don't last
very long.

230v filament lamps don't even exist. Harry as always!


NT

You are of course very wrong. Any lamps intended for most of Europe are
manufactured as 230v. At one time in the UK you could buy 210, 220, 230
and 240v lamps. The reason being the variation in local distribution
voltages and filament lamps sensitivity to voltage.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Monday, 4 January 2016 22:07:12 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
tabbypurr expressed precisely :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 17:30:52 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Bert Coules expressed precisely :

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems unlikely,
is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole batch of them?
Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Numerous places mistakenly sell lamps intended for 230v, whereas what
is needed for the UK is 240v lamps, which means they just don't last
very long.

230v filament lamps don't even exist. Harry as always!

You are of course very wrong. Any lamps intended for most of Europe are
manufactured as 230v. At one time in the UK you could buy 210, 220, 230
and 240v lamps. The reason being the variation in local distribution
voltages and filament lamps sensitivity to voltage.

Come back when you know your subject


NT

formulated the question :
On Monday, 4 January 2016 22:07:12 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
tabbypurr expressed precisely :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 17:30:52 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Bert Coules expressed precisely :

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them? Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Numerous places mistakenly sell lamps intended for 230v, whereas what
is needed for the UK is 240v lamps, which means they just don't last
very long.

230v filament lamps don't even exist. Harry as always!

You are of course very wrong. Any lamps intended for most of Europe are
manufactured as 230v. At one time in the UK you could buy 210, 220, 230
and 240v lamps. The reason being the variation in local distribution
voltages and filament lamps sensitivity to voltage.

Come back when you know your subject


NT

I do know my subject, but it is obviously a waste of time attempting to
explain that subject further to you.

I always check the voltage markings on lamps I purchase, to ensure they
are 240v intended for the UK market, because I often see 230v ones
intended for the EU on sale in the UK - FACT. Yes, I have been caught
out a few times. These last no time at all and are not worth the effort
of installing them.

Back in the pre 1960's you could certainly buy a variety of lamps with
voltages 210, 220, 230 and 240v. Checking the voltage required was as
important as checking the wattage of the lamp required - FACT.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

It happens that tabby formulated :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 13:23:18 UTC, Bert Coules wrote:
Roger, thanks for that. I would have noticed any rapid switching on and
off, I think.

not at 100 times a second you won't. It kills bulbs.


NT

You sir are an idiot! Switching on and off 100 times per second is
normal operation on a/c mains.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

formulated on Sunday :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 13:12:44 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 01/01/16 12:29, Bert Coules wrote:

Most of my house is lit by ceiling-mounted triple spotlights which use
40W R50 bulbs. Recently, three bulbs in the same position in one
particular fitting have blown within a short time of being fitted. One
lasted about thirty minutes, one almost three hours, the third survived
into the next day. I've checked as much of the unit as I could without
wholesale disassembly and found nothing obviously wrong.

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them?

Very much so. Could be 'European' bulbs designed for a slightly lower
voltage

220v bulbs have a life of about 300hrs ave on 240v, so it's not that.


NT

You are making it up as you go along.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Tuesday, 5 January 2016 16:21:04 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
tabbypurr formulated the question :
On Monday, 4 January 2016 22:07:12 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
tabbypurr expressed precisely :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 17:30:52 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Bert Coules expressed precisely :

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them? Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Numerous places mistakenly sell lamps intended for 230v, whereas what
is needed for the UK is 240v lamps, which means they just don't last
very long.

230v filament lamps don't even exist. Harry as always!

You are of course very wrong. Any lamps intended for most of Europe are
manufactured as 230v. At one time in the UK you could buy 210, 220, 230
and 240v lamps. The reason being the variation in local distribution
voltages and filament lamps sensitivity to voltage.

Come back when you know your subject

I do know my subject, but it is obviously a waste of time attempting to
explain that subject further to you.

I always check the voltage markings on lamps I purchase, to ensure they
are 240v intended for the UK market, because I often see 230v ones
intended for the EU on sale in the UK - FACT. Yes, I have been caught
out a few times. These last no time at all and are not worth the effort
of installing them.

Back in the pre 1960's you could certainly buy a variety of lamps with
voltages 210, 220, 230 and 240v. Checking the voltage required was as
important as checking the wattage of the lamp required - FACT.

Shaking head here. Enjoy your bulb purchasing.


NT

On Tuesday, 5 January 2016 16:22:37 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that tabby purr formulated :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 13:23:18 UTC, Bert Coules wrote:
Roger, thanks for that. I would have noticed any rapid switching on and
off, I think.

not at 100 times a second you won't. It kills bulbs.

You sir are an idiot!

Reputable testing indicates otherwise.

Switching on and off 100 times per second is
normal operation on a/c mains.

It's when a poor connection switches on & off 100 times a second that filament lamps die early. Could you not work out that that was the point?


NT

On Tuesday, 5 January 2016 16:23:39 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
tabbypurr formulated on Sunday :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 13:12:44 UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 01/01/16 12:29, Bert Coules wrote:

Most of my house is lit by ceiling-mounted triple spotlights which use
40W R50 bulbs. Recently, three bulbs in the same position in one
particular fitting have blown within a short time of being fitted. One
lasted about thirty minutes, one almost three hours, the third survived
into the next day. I've checked as much of the unit as I could without
wholesale disassembly and found nothing obviously wrong.

All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a whole
batch of them?

Very much so. Could be 'European' bulbs designed for a slightly lower
voltage

220v bulbs have a life of about 300hrs ave on 240v, so it's not that.

You are making it up as you go along.

Something tells me you're unfamiliar with the equations that apply to filament lamps.


NT

On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 16:21:00 GMT, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

230v filament lamps don't even exist. Harry as always!

You are of course very wrong. Any lamps intended for most of Europe are
manufactured as 230v. At one time in the UK you could buy 210, 220, 230
and 240v lamps. The reason being the variation in local distribution
voltages and filament lamps sensitivity to voltage.

Come back when you know your subject


NT

I do know my subject, but it is obviously a waste of time attempting to
explain that subject further to you.

I always check the voltage markings on lamps I purchase, to ensure they
are 240v intended for the UK market, because I often see 230v ones
intended for the EU on sale in the UK - FACT. Yes, I have been caught
out a few times. These last no time at all and are not worth the effort
of installing them.

Back in the pre 1960's you could certainly buy a variety of lamps with
voltages 210, 220, 230 and 240v. Checking the voltage required was as
important as checking the wattage of the lamp required - FACT.

After WW2 National service until he decided what work would best suit
him to my Dad assisted a buddy was starting a small electrical
business. In the end Dad decided to follow another career but a
remnant from that short stint was a carton or two of lamps.
All standard bayonet connection mainly around 40 Watts.
All were the same size physically
Voltages marked on them were 12 ,24,50, 100, 200,through to 250
although by the time I got to rifle through the boxes anything left
for 200 and above was coloured not clear which had been used.
Reason for having the variations is post war the mains was only just
arriving in the area but a lot farms had their own generators
supplying different voltages.
Over my growing up years I got through most of them ,making up
fittings that held lamps in series for use in Dads sheds or 12V
inspection lamps for use with vehicles or in my first road legal
vehicle an A35 van a decent interior light in the back.
The lamps were fitted into a fitting designed to hang in a shop window
as a Black and Black advert so that was double DIY points.

The coloured ones above 200v were used up in the outside Loo where
visitors got used to it having a green or orange light and for a
period blue thus predating public bog attempts to deter drug users by
50 years.

G.Harman

In article ,
wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jan 2016 16:21:00 GMT, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

230v filament lamps don't even exist. Harry as always!

You are of course very wrong. Any lamps intended for most of Europe
are manufactured as 230v. At one time in the UK you could buy 210,
220, 230 and 240v lamps. The reason being the variation in local
distribution voltages and filament lamps sensitivity to voltage.

Come back when you know your subject


NT

I do know my subject, but it is obviously a waste of time attempting to
explain that subject further to you.

I always check the voltage markings on lamps I purchase, to ensure they
are 240v intended for the UK market, because I often see 230v ones
intended for the EU on sale in the UK - FACT. Yes, I have been caught
out a few times. These last no time at all and are not worth the effort
of installing them.

Back in the pre 1960's you could certainly buy a variety of lamps with
voltages 210, 220, 230 and 240v. Checking the voltage required was as
important as checking the wattage of the lamp required - FACT.

After WW2 National service until he decided what work would best suit him
to my Dad assisted a buddy was starting a small electrical business. In
the end Dad decided to follow another career but a remnant from that
short stint was a carton or two of lamps. All standard bayonet connection
mainly around 40 Watts. All were the same size physically Voltages marked
on them were 12 ,24,50, 100, 200,through to 250 although by the time I
got to rifle through the boxes anything left for 200 and above was
coloured not clear which had been used. Reason for having the variations
is post war the mains was only just arriving in the area but a lot farms
had their own generators supplying different voltages. Over my growing up
years I got through most of them ,making up fittings that held lamps in
series for use in Dads sheds or 12V inspection lamps for use with
vehicles or in my first road legal vehicle an A35 van a decent interior
light in the back. The lamps were fitted into a fitting designed to hang
in a shop window as a Black and Black advert so that was double DIY
points.

The coloured ones above 200v were used up in the outside Loo where
visitors got used to it having a green or orange light and for a period
blue thus predating public bog attempts to deter drug users by 50 years.

At Cambridge, at the end of the 50s and early 60s, mains was 200v.

--
Please note new email address:

Update: the known-to-be-good bulb taken from a different room and put into
the possibly-suspect fitting is still going strong after several days. The
new bulb from the possibly-suspect batch put into a known-to-be-OK light
fitting is also still burning bright.

Conclusion: several (but not all) of the bulbs in the Homebase box-of-six
had, for whatever reason, a very limited life span. There is nothing amiss
with the suspected fitting or the wiring feeding it.

Thanks to everyone for the thoughts and suggestions.

Bert

"Bert Coules" wrote in message
o.uk...
An update: the lights were on for several hours last night, and were tried
again this morning. Neither the new bulb (in a non-suspect fitting) nor
an old and well-used bulb (in the possibly faulty fitting) have blown.


Perhaps I was just unlucky in the three bulbs which only lasted very
briefly.

That is IMHO the most probable answer.



--
Adam

On 05/01/2016 16:21, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Back in the pre 1960's you could certainly buy a variety of lamps with
voltages 210, 220, 230 and 240v. Checking the voltage required was as
important as checking the wattage of the lamp required - FACT.

As a child in Huddersfield in the 50's I remember that it was important
to say what district you lived in when buying a lamp bulb because there
were different voltages in different areas of the town. Eventually it
was standardised and I remember men coming round from the electricity
board replacing lamp bulbs and the elements in cookers, electric fires
and irons. I think they also changed the motor in my Mum's vac.

--
Mike Clarke

On 04/01/2016 22:07, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
expressed precisely :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 17:30:52 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Bert Coules expressed precisely :
All three bulbs came from a DIY shed multi-pack. Though it seems
unlikely, is it possible that there was something faulty about a
whole batch of them? Failing that, what else could cause this problem?

Numerous places mistakenly sell lamps intended for 230v, whereas what
is needed for the UK is 240v lamps, which means they just don't last
very long.

230v filament lamps don't even exist. Harry as always!


NT

You are of course very wrong.

Nope, it is possible still to buy 240V lamps.
http://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical...ghts/cat840836

230V is the EU standard for supply and the supply in the UK is still
240V which of course is within tolerance.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_...Voltage_levels

On Thursday, 7 January 2016 23:02:10 UTC, Fredxxx wrote:
On 04/01/2016 22:07, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
tabbypurr expressed precisely :
On Friday, 1 January 2016 17:30:52 UTC, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Bert Coules expressed precisely :

Numerous places mistakenly sell lamps intended for 230v, whereas what
is needed for the UK is 240v lamps, which means they just don't last
very long.

230v filament lamps don't even exist. Harry as always!

You are of course very wrong.

Nope, it is possible still to buy 240V lamps.
http://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical...ghts/cat840836

All UK mains filament lamps are 240v, barring any odd specials eg for railways etc.


230V is the EU standard for supply and the supply in the UK is still
240V which of course is within tolerance.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_...Voltage_levels

Yep. But don't tell Harry.


NT

On Tuesday, 5 January 2016 19:12:52 UTC+1, charles wrote:
At Cambridge, at the end of the 50s and early 60s, mains was 200v.


One of the telescopes at the Institute of Astronomy still uses 200V.
Apparently the electricity company turned up to change everything to
240V and decided to "back away carefully".

I don't know where they get the power from (probably a transformer).