One of the sockets that I need is now hidden behind a chest of drawers,
so I want to have a new one only about 1m away.

My plan is to disconnect one of the two cables going into the socket (it
is definitely part of the upstairs ring, not a spur), extending it to
reach the new socket, and run the return back to the original socket.

I intend to use crimps + heat shrinks to extend the cable, and run the
new cable at the back of the wall, under the eaves - there is a small
gap behind the wall that I can just about manage to squeeze through.

The wall both sockets are/will be fixed to is made up of plasterboard
with 100mm celotex insulation behind it. I'd like to leave at least some
of the celotex behind the backbox.
Would it be enough to simply drill a hole through the celotex, just
large enough for the two cables to go through, or does the hole need to
be much bigger (the socket is likely to be used with a hair dryer)?

Is there anything wrong with my plan?

TIA

On 07/12/2015 15:29, JoeJoe wrote:
One of the sockets that I need is now hidden behind a chest of drawers,
so I want to have a new one only about 1m away.

My plan is to disconnect one of the two cables going into the socket (it
is definitely part of the upstairs ring, not a spur), extending it to
reach the new socket, and run the return back to the original socket.

I intend to use crimps + heat shrinks to extend the cable, and run the
new cable at the back of the wall, under the eaves - there is a small
gap behind the wall that I can just about manage to squeeze through.

The wall both sockets are/will be fixed to is made up of plasterboard
with 100mm celotex insulation behind it. I'd like to leave at least some
of the celotex behind the backbox.
Would it be enough to simply drill a hole through the celotex, just
large enough for the two cables to go through, or does the hole need to
be much bigger (the socket is likely to be used with a hair dryer)?

Is there anything wrong with my plan?

TIA

PS: I want to extend the cable rather than run a new one as both cables
connected to the inaccessible socket are fed from other sockets across
the room, running under the floor, with carpet and chipboard flooring
over (glued and screwed).

In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
One of the sockets that I need is now hidden behind a chest of drawers,
so I want to have a new one only about 1m away.

My plan is to disconnect one of the two cables going into the socket (it
is definitely part of the upstairs ring, not a spur), extending it to
reach the new socket, and run the return back to the original socket.

Why not simply spur from the original?

--
*I started out with nothing, and I still have most of it*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 07/12/2015 15:29, JoeJoe wrote:
One of the sockets that I need is now hidden behind a chest of drawers,
so I want to have a new one only about 1m away.

My plan is to disconnect one of the two cables going into the socket (it
is definitely part of the upstairs ring, not a spur), extending it to
reach the new socket, and run the return back to the original socket.

I intend to use crimps + heat shrinks to extend the cable, and run the
new cable at the back of the wall, under the eaves - there is a small
gap behind the wall that I can just about manage to squeeze through.

The wall both sockets are/will be fixed to is made up of plasterboard
with 100mm celotex insulation behind it. I'd like to leave at least some
of the celotex behind the backbox.
Would it be enough to simply drill a hole through the celotex, just
large enough for the two cables to go through, or does the hole need to
be much bigger (the socket is likely to be used with a hair dryer)?

Is there anything wrong with my plan?

TIA

No - what you suggest will work ok. But wouldn't it be easier just to
run a spur from the inaccessible socket rather than incorporating it
into the ring? Your new cable can still run in the air-space behind the
celotex without needing to take up any floorboards.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 07/12/2015 18:02, Roger Mills wrote:
On 07/12/2015 15:29, JoeJoe wrote:
One of the sockets that I need is now hidden behind a chest of drawers,
so I want to have a new one only about 1m away.

My plan is to disconnect one of the two cables going into the socket (it
is definitely part of the upstairs ring, not a spur), extending it to
reach the new socket, and run the return back to the original socket.

I intend to use crimps + heat shrinks to extend the cable, and run the
new cable at the back of the wall, under the eaves - there is a small
gap behind the wall that I can just about manage to squeeze through.

The wall both sockets are/will be fixed to is made up of plasterboard
with 100mm celotex insulation behind it. I'd like to leave at least some
of the celotex behind the backbox.
Would it be enough to simply drill a hole through the celotex, just
large enough for the two cables to go through, or does the hole need to
be much bigger (the socket is likely to be used with a hair dryer)?

Is there anything wrong with my plan?

TIA

No - what you suggest will work ok. But wouldn't it be easier just to
run a spur from the inaccessible socket rather than incorporating it
into the ring? Your new cable can still run in the air-space behind the
celotex without needing to take up any floorboards.

Thanks guys.

I was thinking about a spur initially, but just wanted to do a "more
proper/professional job"... ...and needed an excuse to buy a crimper ;-)

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
One of the sockets that I need is now hidden behind a chest of drawers,
so I want to have a new one only about 1m away.

My plan is to disconnect one of the two cables going into the socket (it
is definitely part of the upstairs ring, not a spur), extending it to
reach the new socket, and run the return back to the original socket.

Why not simply spur from the original?


Because electricians and DIYers keep banging on about how much better it is
to extend the ring?

Where in the real world a spur is fine for almost every application.

--
Adam

On 07/12/2015 18:34, ARW wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
One of the sockets that I need is now hidden behind a chest of drawers,
so I want to have a new one only about 1m away.

My plan is to disconnect one of the two cables going into the socket (it
is definitely part of the upstairs ring, not a spur), extending it to
reach the new socket, and run the return back to the original socket.

Why not simply spur from the original?


Because electricians and DIYers keep banging on about how much better it
is to extend the ring?

Where in the real world a spur is fine for almost every application.

First time I heard that from an electrician!

What about running the cable(s) through the celotex? Are there any rules?

Just wondering as it is likely to carry relatively high current. Would
making the hole(s) slightly larger be enough?

"JoeJoe" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 07/12/2015 18:34, ARW wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
One of the sockets that I need is now hidden behind a chest of drawers,
so I want to have a new one only about 1m away.

My plan is to disconnect one of the two cables going into the socket
(it
is definitely part of the upstairs ring, not a spur), extending it to
reach the new socket, and run the return back to the original socket.

Why not simply spur from the original?


Because electricians and DIYers keep banging on about how much better it
is to extend the ring?

Where in the real world a spur is fine for almost every application.

First time I heard that from an electrician!

What about running the cable(s) through the celotex? Are there any rules?

Just wondering as it is likely to carry relatively high current.

It is not going to be carrying a relative high current. It will carry a
short term 10A load when your wife dries her hair

Would making the hole(s) slightly larger be enough?

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You should
ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable does not drop
below 20A.

Appendix 6, table 6B of the OSG covers your proposed installation very
nicely.

The CCC of 2.5mm T&E without any derating is 27A.

Passing the 2.5mm T&E through insulation gives a derating factor (determined
by the length of insulation) as


100mm = 0.78 derating factor so your CCC is 21A.


--
Adam

On 2015-12-07, ARW wrote:

"JoeJoe" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 07/12/2015 18:34, ARW wrote:

Because electricians and DIYers keep banging on about how much better it
is to extend the ring?

Where in the real world a spur is fine for almost every application.

First time I heard that from an electrician!

The thing I find curious is that (IIRC!) the limit on the number of
unfused spurs is the number of non-spur sockets. So if you hit the
limit & need another spur, you just add another socket to the ring &
take the spur off that.


What about running the cable(s) through the celotex? Are there any rules?

Just wondering as it is likely to carry relatively high current.

It is not going to be carrying a relative high current. It will carry a
short term 10A load when your wife dries her hair

Would making the hole(s) slightly larger be enough?

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You should
ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable does not drop
below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...
On 2015-12-07, ARW wrote:

"JoeJoe" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 07/12/2015 18:34, ARW wrote:

Because electricians and DIYers keep banging on about how much better
it
is to extend the ring?

Where in the real world a spur is fine for almost every application.

First time I heard that from an electrician!

The thing I find curious is that (IIRC!) the limit on the number of
unfused spurs is the number of non-spur sockets. So if you hit the
limit & need another spur, you just add another socket to the ring &
take the spur off that.


What about running the cable(s) through the celotex? Are there any
rules?

Just wondering as it is likely to carry relatively high current.

It is not going to be carrying a relative high current. It will carry a
short term 10A load when your wife dries her hair

Would making the hole(s) slightly larger be enough?

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You should
ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable does not drop
below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)



In most cases it is all ********.

Apart from a kitchen what is the most likely demand on a ring circuit in
2015?

10A for a short while while the OH buggers around with her hair or 13A for a
little longer when you are stripping wallpaper when redecorating?

The final ring circuit can easily cope with the hair drying and the
wallpaper stripping at the same time.

It can even manage to boil two kettles from a double socket that are fed
from an unfused spur in a bedroom if you wish to.


--
Adam

On 07/12/2015 19:26, ARW wrote:
"JoeJoe" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 07/12/2015 18:34, ARW wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
JoeJoe wrote:
One of the sockets that I need is now hidden behind a chest of
drawers,
so I want to have a new one only about 1m away.

My plan is to disconnect one of the two cables going into the
socket (it
is definitely part of the upstairs ring, not a spur), extending it to
reach the new socket, and run the return back to the original socket.

Why not simply spur from the original?


Because electricians and DIYers keep banging on about how much better it
is to extend the ring?

Where in the real world a spur is fine for almost every application.

First time I heard that from an electrician!

What about running the cable(s) through the celotex? Are there any rules?

Just wondering as it is likely to carry relatively high current.

It is not going to be carrying a relative high current. It will carry a
short term 10A load when your wife dries her hair

Would making the hole(s) slightly larger be enough?

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You should
ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable does not
drop below 20A.

Appendix 6, table 6B of the OSG covers your proposed installation very
nicely.

The CCC of 2.5mm T&E without any derating is 27A.

Passing the 2.5mm T&E through insulation gives a derating factor
(determined by the length of insulation) as


100mm = 0.78 derating factor so your CCC is 21A.

Many thanks for taking the time - much appreciated.

In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:
It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.

--
*The first rule of holes: If you are in one, stop digging!

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 08/12/2015 00:21, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:
It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.

Most, yes. You don't have to look too hard for a 3kw kettle:

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Search...uctInformation

On 2015-12-08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.

Really? Ours isn't more than a couple of years old & it's the full
13Â*A.


--
*The first rule of holes: If you are in one, stop digging!

What if you're trying to make a foundation?

In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-12-08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.

Really? Ours isn't more than a couple of years old & it's the full
13 A.


The vast majority use the standard kettle connector. Rated at 10 amps.

--
*Many people quit looking for work when they find a job *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 11:04:12 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
The vast majority use the standard kettle connector. Rated at 10 amps.

10 British amps = 13 Chinese amps.

Owain

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The vast majority use the standard kettle connector. Rated at 10 amps.

Most kettles I've seen lately have the lead wired direct to the base
plate with no IEC connector, just a "coax docking" connector ...

On 2015-12-08, Andy Burns wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The vast majority use the standard kettle connector. Rated at 10 amps.

Most kettles I've seen lately have the lead wired direct to the base
plate with no IEC connector, just a "coax docking" connector ...

I think you & I are thinking of the "cordless" kind (the jug lifts off
the base, which is always live), whereas Dave is thinking about the
other kind --- & I think he's right about the connectors on the other
kind, although I'm a little surprised they (the kettles, that is) are
limited to 10 A.

On 2015-12-07, ARW wrote:

"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...
On 2015-12-07, ARW wrote:

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You should
ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable does not drop
below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

In most cases it is all ********.

Apart from a kitchen what is the most likely demand on a ring circuit in
2015?

10A for a short while while the OH buggers around with her hair or 13A for a
little longer when you are stripping wallpaper when redecorating?

The final ring circuit can easily cope with the hair drying and the
wallpaper stripping at the same time.

It can even manage to boil two kettles from a double socket that are fed
from an unfused spur in a bedroom if you wish to.

Especially since kettles only run for a few minutes. I guess the only
real potential problem is from high-power portable electric heaters
(which aren't used so much now)?

In article ,
Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The vast majority use the standard kettle connector. Rated at 10 amps.

Most kettles I've seen lately have the lead wired direct to the base
plate with no IEC connector, just a "coax docking" connector ...

Yes - and they're generally 10 amps too.

I did look for a 'cordless' 3kW one some time ago with no success. Perhaps
they are available now?

Perhaps it all due to making a universal product - many 230v countries
have a 10 amp limit for sockets.

--
*I don't believe in astrology. I am a Sagittarius and we're very skeptical.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-12-08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.

Really? Ours isn't more than a couple of years old & it's the full
13 A.


The vast majority use the standard kettle connector. Rated at 10 amps.

Surely the vast majority are cordless now, no connector of the sort
you are describing, just a 13 amp plug with a lead to the base on
which the 'jug' stands.

--
Chris Green
·

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The vast majority use the standard kettle connector. Rated at 10 amps.

Most kettles I've seen lately have the lead wired direct to the base
plate with no IEC connector, just a "coax docking" connector ...

Yes - and they're generally 10 amps too.

I did look for a 'cordless' 3kW one some time ago with no success. Perhaps
they are available now?


We have had a Tesco one for a few years.

A quick persual of their website seems to show some others as well.
--
Chris French

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I did look for a 'cordless' 3kW one some time ago with no success. Perhaps
they are available now?

hundreds of 'em ...

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:
On 2015-12-08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.

Really? Ours isn't more than a couple of years old & it's the full
13 A.


The vast majority use the standard kettle connector. Rated at 10 amps.

Cordless ones don't use that sort of connector. Ours (a Philips) is rated
3kW.

--
Please note new email address:

"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...
On 2015-12-07, ARW wrote:

"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...
On 2015-12-07, ARW wrote:

It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You should
ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable does not
drop
below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

In most cases it is all ********.

Apart from a kitchen what is the most likely demand on a ring circuit in
2015?

10A for a short while while the OH buggers around with her hair or 13A
for a
little longer when you are stripping wallpaper when redecorating?

The final ring circuit can easily cope with the hair drying and the
wallpaper stripping at the same time.

It can even manage to boil two kettles from a double socket that are fed
from an unfused spur in a bedroom if you wish to.

Especially since kettles only run for a few minutes. I guess the only
real potential problem is from high-power portable electric heaters
(which aren't used so much now)?


You are looking at a 20A load on a double socket for one hour before you get
problems. The same problem occurs if the socket is on the ring or a spur.

--
Adam

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:
It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.


And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem.

Not to mention that they are probably only 3kW at 240V and not 3kW with the
new fangled 230V that we now use!

I found a missing 10V down the back of the settee the other day.

--
Adam

On Tue, 08 Dec 2015 19:37:34 +0000, ARW wrote:

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.

And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem.

Oh, no! I have to get my tea-break over with more quickly!

On 2015-12-08, ARW wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:
It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.


And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem.

Not to mention that they are probably only 3kW at 240V and not 3kW with the
new fangled 230V that we now use!

I found a missing 10V down the back of the settee the other day.

Was it an old 10V or the smaller new one?

Adam Funk Wrote in message:
On 2015-12-08, ARW wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:
It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.


And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem.

Not to mention that they are probably only 3kW at 240V and not 3kW with the
new fangled 230V that we now use!

I found a missing 10V down the back of the settee the other day.

Was it an old 10V or the smaller new one?



:-)

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 08/12/2015 16:53, charles wrote

Cordless ones don't use that sort of connector. Ours (a Philips) is rated
3kW.

Yes, I guess the most common 'cordless' kettle connector is the Strix
P72, which is rated at 13 A.

http://www.strix.com/product/prodP72.pdf

--
Andy

In article , Andy Wade
wrote:
On 08/12/2015 16:53, charles wrote

Cordless ones don't use that sort of connector. Ours (a Philips) is
rated 3kW.

Yes, I guess the most common 'cordless' kettle connector is the Strix
P72, which is rated at 13 A.

http://www.strix.com/product/prodP72.pdf

That's the one

--
Please note new email address:

On 2015-12-08, ARW wrote:

"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...

Especially since kettles only run for a few minutes. I guess the only
real potential problem is from high-power portable electric heaters
(which aren't used so much now)?


You are looking at a 20A load on a double socket for one hour before you get
problems. The same problem occurs if the socket is on the ring or a spur.

I remember that. How long at 26 A?

On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 20:37:40 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.
And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem.
Not to mention that they are probably only 3kW at 240V and not 3kW with
the new fangled 230V that we now use!

Err. No we don't! The actual sockets in the UK are still 240V AC (and
in continental Europe are still 220V AC). It's just that the error bars
on allowed voltages has changed (so it's something like 215-245V) - and
all equipment has to cope with that range.

(I'm pretty sure that ARW knows this, but just in case others dont...)

In article ,
Martin Bonner wrote:
On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 20:37:40 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.
And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem.
Not to mention that they are probably only 3kW at 240V and not 3kW with
the new fangled 230V that we now use!

Err. No we don't! The actual sockets in the UK are still 240V AC

[Snip]
in which case, I'm being cheated. My multimeter shows only 239v.

--
Please note new email address:

In article ,
charles wrote:
In article ,
Martin Bonner wrote:
On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 20:37:40 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.
And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem. Not to
mention that they are probably only 3kW at 240V and not 3kW with the
new fangled 230V that we now use!

Err. No we don't! The actual sockets in the UK are still 240V AC

[Snip] in which case, I'm being cheated. My multimeter shows only 239v.

My Fluke quotes 1% accuracy on that AC range.

--
*People want trepanners like they want a hole in the head*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...
On 2015-12-08, ARW wrote:

"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...

Especially since kettles only run for a few minutes. I guess the only
real potential problem is from high-power portable electric heaters
(which aren't used so much now)?


You are looking at a 20A load on a double socket for one hour before you
get
problems. The same problem occurs if the socket is on the ring or a spur.

I remember that. How long at 26 A?


What do you plan to run at 26A 92 x 13A) for an hour?

The worst case scenario is still a buggered double socket.

--
Adam

"Martin Bonner" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 20:37:40 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.
And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem.
Not to mention that they are probably only 3kW at 240V and not 3kW with
the new fangled 230V that we now use!

Err. No we don't! The actual sockets in the UK are still 240V AC (and
in continental Europe are still 220V AC). It's just that the error bars
on allowed voltages has changed (so it's something like 215-245V) - and
all equipment has to cope with that range.

(I'm pretty sure that ARW knows this, but just in case others dont...)


Points noted.

The nominal voltage at which calculations are done is now 230V.

Look at the way electric shower manufacturers show the power of their shower
(dunno if kettle maufacurers do the same) but they always show the 240V
power rating on the box and not the 230V rating.

And yes 99% of UK homes will be close to or above 235V and so there is
nothing new or changed in the UKs supply to most houses:-)




--
Adam

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
charles wrote:
In article ,
Martin Bonner wrote:
On Tuesday, 8 December 2015 20:37:40 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.
And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem. Not to
mention that they are probably only 3kW at 240V and not 3kW with the
new fangled 230V that we now use!

Err. No we don't! The actual sockets in the UK are still 240V AC

[Snip] in which case, I'm being cheated. My multimeter shows only 239v.

My Fluke quotes 1% accuracy on that AC range.


The voltage can change throughout the day.

--
Adam

"Adam Funk" wrote in message
...
On 2015-12-08, ARW wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Adam Funk wrote:
It makes no difference if you extend the ring or use a spur. You
should ensure sure that the current carrying capacity of the cable
does not drop below 20A.

There's nothing to stop a future occupier from plugging two kettles
in, though (I'm assuming it's a double socket). ;-)

Modern kettles are generally 10 amps maximum.


And the 13A ones will boil quicker so there is no problem.

Not to mention that they are probably only 3kW at 240V and not 3kW with
the
new fangled 230V that we now use!

I found a missing 10V down the back of the settee the other day.

Was it an old 10V or the smaller new one?

It was the new 9V one.

--
Adam

In article ,
ARW wrote:
Err. No we don't! The actual sockets in the UK are still 240V AC

[Snip] in which case, I'm being cheated. My multimeter shows only 239v.

My Fluke quotes 1% accuracy on that AC range.


The voltage can change throughout the day.


And the frequency. I have a mains locked clock, and it can drift quite a
few seconds either way according to the pips on the radio.

--
*A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.