Week before last asked some advice on how to fix Tanalized 50mm thick
wood capping onto brick/block wall. (60m of it)

Final decision is to fit with Concrete screws ..
Frame Screws http://tinyurl.com/h9uu7yr
Managed to get 150mm length at only £13 a 100

Good suggestion I have had is to insert 5mm thick plastic spacers under
wood to keep off brickwork when damp and also allow for any
irregularities when fixing .. so may take that approach.



My question is two fold ....... first off at what centres should I put
in these fixings ... thinking that 600mm c/s may be suitable ? someone
mention 2 fixings every 600c/s but that seems a lot of screws.


I had thought about counter-bore and then plug ...... a lot of effort,
if I instead just pulled in screw to below flush and fitted a cover cap.
Such as:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cover-caps...k-of-100/30258
Which are specifically for concrete screws .....Thoughts ?

Know of a better approach ?

rick wrote:
Week before last asked some advice on how to fix Tanalized 50mm thick
wood capping onto brick/block wall. (60m of it)

Final decision is to fit with Concrete screws ..
Frame Screws http://tinyurl.com/h9uu7yr
Managed to get 150mm length at only £13 a 100

Good suggestion I have had is to insert 5mm thick plastic spacers
under wood to keep off brickwork when damp and also allow for any
irregularities when fixing .. so may take that approach.



My question is two fold ....... first off at what centres should I put
in these fixings ... thinking that 600mm c/s may be suitable ? someone
mention 2 fixings every 600c/s but that seems a lot of
screws.

I had thought about counter-bore and then plug ...... a lot of effort,
if I instead just pulled in screw to below flush and fitted a cover
cap. Such as:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cover-caps...k-of-100/30258
Which are specifically for concrete screws .....Thoughts ?

Know of a better approach ?

Yes, use concrete cappings, timber won't last 18 months

On 05/12/2015 15:33, Phil L wrote:


Yes, use concrete cappings, timber won't last 18 months



That is not much use .... I couldn't use concrete cappings easily as
overhang would be too great ... in any event I have bought the wood.

Don't know why you think it will only last 18 months.
Fully pressure treated Tanalized timber plus finish coating on top will
last a lot longer than that ..........

rick wrote:
On 05/12/2015 15:33, Phil L wrote:


Yes, use concrete cappings, timber won't last 18 months



That is not much use .... I couldn't use concrete cappings easily as
overhang would be too great ... in any event I have bought the wood.

What width is the wall?

Don't know why you think it will only last 18 months.
Fully pressure treated Tanalized timber plus finish coating on top
will last a lot longer than that ..........

How many walls have you seen with a timber capping all along it's length?
FWIW, the sun does more damage to timber than anything else - in the extreme
heat of summer it tends to twist and split, this allows insect, fungal and
mould attacks. 18 months may be a bit low, but it will rot

On 05/12/2015 16:16, Phil L wrote:
rick wrote:
On 05/12/2015 15:33, Phil L wrote:


Yes, use concrete cappings, timber won't last 18 months



That is not much use .... I couldn't use concrete cappings easily as
overhang would be too great ... in any event I have bought the wood.

What width is the wall?

Don't know why you think it will only last 18 months.
Fully pressure treated Tanalized timber plus finish coating on top
will last a lot longer than that ..........

How many walls have you seen with a timber capping all along it's length?
FWIW, the sun does more damage to timber than anything else - in the extreme
heat of summer it tends to twist and split, this allows insect, fungal and
mould attacks. 18 months may be a bit low, but it will rot



Unnecessarily pessimistic. The *upper* part of fences last for decades!
If the OP can engineer a small gap between masonry and wood, that would
help. Also, it's mainly water going into the end grain that causes rot.
Sealing the ends of the capping with candle wax might also help.
FWIW & IME I have both tanalised and untreated wood (above ground level)
in my garden, and they have lasted equally well. I certainly wouldn't
use a "coating", which invariably becomes a maintenance nightmare.

On 06/12/2015 09:19, stuart noble wrote:
On 05/12/2015 16:16, Phil L wrote:
rick wrote:
On 05/12/2015 15:33, Phil L wrote:


Yes, use concrete cappings, timber won't last 18 months



That is not much use .... I couldn't use concrete cappings easily as
overhang would be too great ... in any event I have bought the wood.

What width is the wall?

Don't know why you think it will only last 18 months.
Fully pressure treated Tanalized timber plus finish coating on top
will last a lot longer than that ..........

How many walls have you seen with a timber capping all along it's length?
FWIW, the sun does more damage to timber than anything else - in the
extreme
heat of summer it tends to twist and split, this allows insect, fungal
and
mould attacks. 18 months may be a bit low, but it will rot



Unnecessarily pessimistic. The *upper* part of fences last for decades!
If the OP can engineer a small gap between masonry and wood, that would
help. Also, it's mainly water going into the end grain that causes rot.
Sealing the ends of the capping with candle wax might also help.
FWIW & IME I have both tanalised and untreated wood (above ground level)
in my garden, and they have lasted equally well. I certainly wouldn't
use a "coating", which invariably becomes a maintenance nightmare.



Wall is 110mm (single brick course)

I intend fitting full wall width 5mm thick plastic spacers between wood
and wall ...
Thought of using one of these at each screw fixing:
http://tinyurl.com/jtbvz8h

The wood is fully pressure treated, plus I will apply 2 coats of Sadolin
Classic Natural finish.
The reason for coating is that it will then match the cladding ... which
does need coating.

None of this is in contact with the ground.

On Saturday, 5 December 2015 16:01:54 UTC, rick wrote:
On 05/12/2015 15:33, Phil L wrote:


Yes, use concrete cappings, timber won't last 18 months



That is not much use .... I couldn't use concrete cappings easily as
overhang would be too great ... in any event I have bought the wood.

Don't know why you think it will only last 18 months.
Fully pressure treated Tanalized timber plus finish coating on top will
last a lot longer than that ..........

Tanalising is not what it once was.
It used to be effective when it was arsenic based.
Then is became copper based.
Now I think it's chromium based.
Very poor now compared with the orginal.

On 07/12/2015 22:35, rick wrote:
On 06/12/2015 09:19, stuart noble wrote:
On 05/12/2015 16:16, Phil L wrote:
rick wrote:
On 05/12/2015 15:33, Phil L wrote:


Yes, use concrete cappings, timber won't last 18 months



That is not much use .... I couldn't use concrete cappings easily as
overhang would be too great ... in any event I have bought the wood.

What width is the wall?

Don't know why you think it will only last 18 months.
Fully pressure treated Tanalized timber plus finish coating on top
will last a lot longer than that ..........

How many walls have you seen with a timber capping all along it's
length?
FWIW, the sun does more damage to timber than anything else - in the
extreme
heat of summer it tends to twist and split, this allows insect, fungal
and
mould attacks. 18 months may be a bit low, but it will rot



Unnecessarily pessimistic. The *upper* part of fences last for decades!
If the OP can engineer a small gap between masonry and wood, that would
help. Also, it's mainly water going into the end grain that causes rot.
Sealing the ends of the capping with candle wax might also help.
FWIW & IME I have both tanalised and untreated wood (above ground level)
in my garden, and they have lasted equally well. I certainly wouldn't
use a "coating", which invariably becomes a maintenance nightmare.



Wall is 110mm (single brick course)

I intend fitting full wall width 5mm thick plastic spacers between wood
and wall ...
Thought of using one of these at each screw fixing:
http://tinyurl.com/jtbvz8h

The wood is fully pressure treated, plus I will apply 2 coats of Sadolin
Classic Natural finish.
The reason for coating is that it will then match the cladding ... which
does need coating.

None of this is in contact with the ground.



So the coating is a cosmetic thing? IME all outdoor timber ends up that
grey weather beaten colour, whether you like it or not. It's a colour
that blends perfectly with the garden, but probably not the house!

On 08/12/2015 08:28, stuart noble wrote:
On 07/12/2015 22:35, rick wrote:

So the coating is a cosmetic thing? IME all outdoor timber ends up that
grey weather beaten colour, whether you like it or not. It's a colour
that blends perfectly with the garden, but probably not the house!


Actually not quite true ...

I have an outbuilding that I built fully clad in Thermowood, gets a coat
of Sadolin every 3 years and looks immaculate in its natural medium
brown finish .......... one of the benefits of Thermowood. Which is
same stuff I am cladding these walls with .... unfortunately cappings
were not available in Thermowood, but they will have same stain applied.

If anybody ever want a first class stable & durable cladding then use
thermowood - its a great product.

On 08/12/2015 08:16, harry wrote:
On Saturday, 5 December 2015 16:01:54 UTC, rick wrote:
On 05/12/2015 15:33, Phil L wrote:


Yes, use concrete cappings, timber won't last 18 months



That is not much use .... I couldn't use concrete cappings easily as
overhang would be too great ... in any event I have bought the wood.

Don't know why you think it will only last 18 months.
Fully pressure treated Tanalized timber plus finish coating on top will
last a lot longer than that ..........

Tanalising is not what it once was.
It used to be effective when it was arsenic based.
Then is became copper based.
Now I think it's chromium based.
Very poor now compared with the orginal.



same as cresote ... the current ver creocote is not as good .........
but if product has heath risks they have to cease its use.