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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

Hello,

There were floorboards missing from under my bath and a few of the
other floorboards had been hacked by the previous owner, so I want to
get new floorboards. I'm undecided whether to just get new ones to
replace the missing and damaged ones or whether, as it is such a small
room, to do the lot.

I know chipboard was recommended to me in another post but I don't
like the idea of that in a bathroom.

In my old house, the floorboards were 16mm thick. I went to a local
timber merchant and they planed wood down to that size for me. It did
not have tongues and grooves, but I never had any problems.

This new house has floorboards 22mm thick. I am finding it hard to
find anything that thick. Places like Wickes sell 18mm thick
floorboards and some builders merchants I have contacted sell 20mm
ones.

Jewsons were advertising a 22mm but when I got there it was a nominal
measurement; I presume that means before it was planed? They were
actually 18mm thick. They do a 25mm nominal one that is really 20mm
thick.

I am thinking I could do the whole room in 20mm thick boards and the
2mm drop from the 22mm boards on the landing would not be noticeable.
I am unsure whether I could "patch" the room with 20mm boards
alongside the 22m ones without it being noticeable. 2mm doesn't sound
a lot and it might be hidden by whatever I cover the floor with
(currently undecided) but I am not sure. Particularly in a room where
you will be barefoot.

I suppose I could try and find a timber merchant and get them to plane
something to 22mm and not worry about the tongues and grooves. Is that
a better idea? I know the tongues and grooves are supposed to
strengthen the floor and prevent draughts but are they that important?
What would the group recommend?

Thanks,
Stephen.
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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

Stephen wrote:

I am thinking I could do the whole room in 20mm thick boards and the
2mm drop from the 22mm boards on the landing would not be noticeable.
I am unsure whether I could "patch" the room with 20mm boards
alongside the 22m ones without it being noticeable. 2mm doesn't sound
a lot and it might be hidden by whatever I cover the floor with
(currently undecided) but I am not sure. Particularly in a room where
you will be barefoot.


Put hardboard over the floorboards.

Bill
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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

Well there are boards missing fromour bathroom under the bath, and
apparently this is how it was built.
I guess it made the plumbing easier.

Brian

--
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read my posts! :-)
"Stephen" wrote in message
...
Hello,

There were floorboards missing from under my bath and a few of the
other floorboards had been hacked by the previous owner, so I want to
get new floorboards. I'm undecided whether to just get new ones to
replace the missing and damaged ones or whether, as it is such a small
room, to do the lot.

I know chipboard was recommended to me in another post but I don't
like the idea of that in a bathroom.

In my old house, the floorboards were 16mm thick. I went to a local
timber merchant and they planed wood down to that size for me. It did
not have tongues and grooves, but I never had any problems.

This new house has floorboards 22mm thick. I am finding it hard to
find anything that thick. Places like Wickes sell 18mm thick
floorboards and some builders merchants I have contacted sell 20mm
ones.

Jewsons were advertising a 22mm but when I got there it was a nominal
measurement; I presume that means before it was planed? They were
actually 18mm thick. They do a 25mm nominal one that is really 20mm
thick.

I am thinking I could do the whole room in 20mm thick boards and the
2mm drop from the 22mm boards on the landing would not be noticeable.
I am unsure whether I could "patch" the room with 20mm boards
alongside the 22m ones without it being noticeable. 2mm doesn't sound
a lot and it might be hidden by whatever I cover the floor with
(currently undecided) but I am not sure. Particularly in a room where
you will be barefoot.

I suppose I could try and find a timber merchant and get them to plane
something to 22mm and not worry about the tongues and grooves. Is that
a better idea? I know the tongues and grooves are supposed to
strengthen the floor and prevent draughts but are they that important?
What would the group recommend?

Thanks,
Stephen.



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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

On 08/10/2015 15:03, Brian-Gaff wrote:
Well there are boards missing fromour bathroom under the bath, and
apparently this is how it was built.
I guess it made the plumbing easier.

Brian


I'd use moisture resistant 22mm chip (grade P5). I've seen that stuff
almost floating in water for days without degrading.
Failing that, use 19mm (or whatever) wood and pack it over the joists
with hardboard (or whatever)

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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
Failing that, use 19mm (or whatever) wood and pack it over the joists
with hardboard (or whatever)


Yes - easiest way is to get the nearest thickness under and pack it up
level. Decent card can be good for this. Once you've got the correct
thickness by trial and error, use tacks to hold it to the joists.

--
*How can I miss you if you won't go away?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
Failing that, use 19mm (or whatever) wood and pack it over the joists
with hardboard (or whatever)


Yes - easiest way is to get the nearest thickness under and pack it up
level. Decent card can be good for this. Once you've got the correct
thickness by trial and error, use tacks to hold it to the joists.


Yes, if it's just a few boards I'd patch it.

I did that in my bathroom - I packed the boards out with plastic
packers. Having bought a bag for a job last year I much prefer them to
faffing with bit of card, hardboard etc.though I probably wouldn't
bother for a couple of boards :-)

I certainly wouldn't want to leave some board lover than others. Though
worth deciding on the flooring. If it something that will require
overboarding with something might be worth just putting down a new floor
anyway?
--
Chris French

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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

On Thu, 08 Oct 2015 14:26:32 +0100, Bill Wright
wrote:


Put hardboard over the floorboards.


That did cross my mind but I wondered about using ply since this is a
bathroom and it might get wet.
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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

On Thu, 8 Oct 2015 19:58:11 +0100, Chris French
wrote:

If it something that will require
overboarding with something might be worth just putting down a new floor
anyway?


That's what I was thinking, that if I could get it all level, I would
not need to overboard.

Granted it's not a common occurrence, but I think it's also nice to
have access to the floorboards if you need to lift one to get to a
pipe or wire, which is difficult if overboarded.

Thanks,
Stephen.
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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

In article ,
Stephen wrote:
On Thu, 08 Oct 2015 14:26:32 +0100, Bill Wright
wrote:



Put hardboard over the floorboards.


That did cross my mind but I wondered about using ply since this is a
bathroom and it might get wet.



I'd not, unless you need a super smooth floor for vinyl tiles etc.

Far better to do a proper repair.

--
*If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

In article ,
Stephen wrote:
That's what I was thinking, that if I could get it all level, I would
not need to overboard.


Granted it's not a common occurrence, but I think it's also nice to
have access to the floorboards if you need to lift one to get to a
pipe or wire, which is difficult if overboarded.


It's really not difficult to replace a few floorboards and get a level
result.

It is likely more of a problem finding decent timber that won't shrink if
there are hot pipes etc underneath. The ordinary stuff you'll buy from a
shed etc will.

Probably worth looking at a re-claim yard for original if you have one
handy.

--
*Remember not to forget that which you do not need to know.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

I like a bit of slope on a bathroom floor so when (not if) there's an accident the water has a route to go which is the least bad...

[g]
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Default bathroom floorboard dilemma

On Thursday, 8 October 2015 10:11:08 UTC+1, Stephen wrote:
Hello,

There were floorboards missing from under my bath and a few of the
other floorboards had been hacked by the previous owner, so I want to
get new floorboards. I'm undecided whether to just get new ones to
replace the missing and damaged ones or whether, as it is such a small
room, to do the lot.


what would be the upside of replacing the good ones with more good ones?

I know chipboard was recommended to me in another post but I don't
like the idea of that in a bathroom.

In my old house, the floorboards were 16mm thick. I went to a local
timber merchant and they planed wood down to that size for me. It did
not have tongues and grooves, but I never had any problems.

This new house has floorboards 22mm thick. I am finding it hard to
find anything that thick. Places like Wickes sell 18mm thick
floorboards and some builders merchants I have contacted sell 20mm
ones.

Jewsons were advertising a 22mm but when I got there it was a nominal
measurement; I presume that means before it was planed? They were
actually 18mm thick. They do a 25mm nominal one that is really 20mm
thick.


So you can readily get 22mm.

I am thinking I could do the whole room in 20mm thick boards and the
2mm drop from the 22mm boards on the landing would not be noticeable.
I am unsure whether I could "patch" the room with 20mm boards
alongside the 22m ones without it being noticeable. 2mm doesn't sound
a lot and it might be hidden by whatever I cover the floor with
(currently undecided) but I am not sure. Particularly in a room where
you will be barefoot.

I suppose I could try and find a timber merchant and get them to plane
something to 22mm and not worry about the tongues and grooves. Is that
a better idea? I know the tongues and grooves are supposed to
strengthen the floor and prevent draughts but are they that important?
What would the group recommend?

Thanks,
Stephen.


What a lot of pointlessness.

If there's any likelihood of the boards being on show, get used ones to match existing.
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In message , Stephen
writes
On Thu, 8 Oct 2015 19:58:11 +0100, Chris French
wrote:

If it something that will require
overboarding with something might be worth just putting down a new floor
anyway?


That's what I was thinking, that if I could get it all level, I would
not need to overboard.

Granted it's not a common occurrence, but I think it's also nice to
have access to the floorboards if you need to lift one to get to a
pipe or wire, which is difficult if overboarded.


Depends on what's the floor covering on top is as to what diference that
makes though. Some flooring does really want overboarding though.
--
Chris French

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