I have a built-in wardrobe set that I want to illuminate inside with some mains powered led lights.

Within the wardrobe there's a double socket...

Thinking spur off the socket to a fcu then upto lights all in discrete surface clipped t&e (or maybe in plastic conduit?), junction boxes for all connections, 3amp fuse in fcu...

Does that sound proper enough?

Any tips or gotchas?

TIA

Jim K

On Wednesday, August 5, 2015 at 7:00:11 PM UTC+1, JimK wrote:
I have a built-in wardrobe set that I want to illuminate inside with some mains powered led lights.

Within the wardrobe there's a double socket...

Thinking spur off the socket to a fcu then upto lights all in discrete surface clipped t&e (or maybe in plastic conduit?), junction boxes for all connections, 3amp fuse in fcu...

Does that sound proper enough?

Any tips or gotchas?

TIA

Jim K

We got some battery operated leds iwth built in motion detectors. Very handy for odd things like that

On Wednesday, August 5, 2015 at 7:00:11 PM UTC+1, JimK wrote:
I have a built-in wardrobe set that I want to illuminate inside with some mains powered led lights.

Within the wardrobe there's a double socket...

Thinking spur off the socket to a fcu then upto lights all in discrete surface clipped t&e (or maybe in plastic conduit?), junction boxes for all connections, 3amp fuse in fcu...

Does that sound proper enough?

Any tips or gotchas?

TIA

Jim K

Microswitch to turn the light on when you open the door. We put them in all our cupboards here - great!

Jonathan

In article ,
JimK writes:
I have a built-in wardrobe set that I want to illuminate inside with some mains powered led lights.

Within the wardrobe there's a double socket...

Thinking spur off the socket to a fcu then upto lights all in discrete surface clipped t&e (or maybe in plastic conduit?), junction boxes for all connections, 3amp fuse in fcu...

Does that sound proper enough?

Any tips or gotchas?

Make sure they are positioned so there's no way clothing can get anywhere
near them.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

JimK wrote:
I have a built-in wardrobe set that I want to illuminate inside with
some mains powered led lights.

Within the wardrobe there's a double socket...

Thinking spur off the socket to a fcu then upto lights all in
discrete surface clipped t&e (or maybe in plastic conduit?), junction
boxes for all connections, 3amp fuse in fcu...

Does that sound proper enough?

Any tips or gotchas?

Faced with a similar situation: my wardrobes weren't fitted to the room
ceiling (sloping!) so I simply ran flex from the socket, behind the
nearest wardrobe, onto the "roof" of the run of wardrobes. There the
mains was looped into door-operated switches on the "ceiling" of each
wardrobe, to the PSUs on the "roof".

The lights are LED tapes. They're stuck to the inside surface of 15mm
L-shaped mouldings, which in turn are pinned to the inside of the
wardrobes. That results in good illumination with the LEDs actually out
of sight to avoid glare.

In the hanging space, the mouldings are on the sides near the door
hinges. In another location with full-depth shelves, the mouldings are
on the doors, near the swinging ends. In yet another location with
internal drawers, the mouldings are placed below the lip of each drawer.

I can take photos if you're interested.

--
Mike Barnes
Cheshire, England

On 05/08/2015 19:16, fred wrote:
On Wednesday, August 5, 2015 at 7:00:11 PM UTC+1, JimK wrote:
I have a built-in wardrobe set that I want to illuminate inside with some mains powered led lights.

Within the wardrobe there's a double socket...

Thinking spur off the socket to a fcu then upto lights all in discrete surface clipped t&e (or maybe in plastic conduit?), junction boxes for all connections, 3amp fuse in fcu...

Does that sound proper enough?

Any tips or gotchas?

TIA

Jim K

We got some battery operated leds iwth built in motion detectors. Very handy for odd things like that


Not especially subtle light but quite bright considering, Lidl have 2
for £10.

--
Cheers, Rob

JimK wrote:
I have a built-in wardrobe set that I want to illuminate inside with some mains powered led lights.

Within the wardrobe there's a double socket...

Thinking spur off the socket to a fcu then upto lights all in discrete surface clipped t&e (or maybe in plastic conduit?), junction boxes for all connections, 3amp fuse in fcu...

Does that sound proper enough?

Any tips or gotchas?

TIA

Jim K

Ikea has led strip lamps called "Striberg", put one in my kitchen
cupboard, works a treat, can set it to come on when door is opened (has
sensor built in.
do have to get extra bits of wiring and stuff to go with it.

Further on with this now, and a refinement brings a quandary :-

Mains is spurred from an existing double socket, through a new 3A fcu, 1.5mm T&E cable in conduit to switch position.

It has been decreed that two switches controlling two independent sets of lights are required...

So what's best practice to cable this lot up?

I can imagine a 6way junction box, with mains in, two switch wires, and two cables out 1 to each set of lights, like a loopin lighting setup;
Or
A deep backbox behind the double switch with choc blok connectors doing the job of the junction box. Mains in, 2 switched feeds out to the lights...

Last one sounds neater but less "proper"...

What would you do and why?

TIA

Jim K

On Mon, 24 Aug 2015 05:50:31 -0700, JimK wrote:

A deep backbox behind the double switch with choc blok connectors doing
the job of the junction box. Mains in, 2 switched feeds out to the
lights...

Rather than a deep backbox, get a double backbox (not double size, but
one that takes two single plates). Drill a hole between the two halves
and put the choc blocks in one half with a blank plate on it. Less
squashed and easier to work with.

Here (on 'page' 53):

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technic...K/MK_BOXES.pdf

/ A deep backbox behind the double switch with choc blok connectors doing
the job of the junction box. Mains in, 2 switched feeds out to the
lights...

Rather than a deep backbox, get a double backbox (not double size, but
one that takes two single plates). Drill a hole between the two halves
and put the choc blocks in one half with a blank plate on it. Less
squashed and easier to work with./Q

Mmm spose so, but there'd only be 3 neutrals to join w choc blok, & 3 earths via the patress earth terminal I'd expect?

Jim K

"JimK" wrote in message
...
Further on with this now, and a refinement brings a quandary :-

Mains is spurred from an existing double socket, through a new 3A fcu,
1.5mm T&E cable in conduit to switch position.

It has been decreed that two switches controlling two independent sets of
lights are required...

So what's best practice to cable this lot up?

I can imagine a 6way junction box, with mains in, two switch wires, and
two cables out 1 to each set of lights, like a loopin lighting setup;
Or
A deep backbox behind the double switch with choc blok connectors doing
the job of the junction box. Mains in, 2 switched feeds out to the
lights...

Last one sounds neater but less "proper"...

What would you do and why?



3 x 1.5 T&E cables behind a 2g light switch in a 25mm backbox with the
neutrals in a piece of choc bloc is normal these days (the youngsters have
no idea what loop in wiring at a light is).

Loads of space for all the cables.

--
Adam

Thanks all

Jim K

Oops meant to ask, I've got loads of white 3 core 1mm flex, is using this allowable?

Thinking for the feeds from switches to and between the light fittings?

Or should it be T&E throughout?

TIA

Jim K

"JimK" wrote in message
...
Oops meant to ask, I've got loads of white 3 core 1mm flex, is using this
allowable?

Thinking for the feeds from switches to and between the light fittings?

Or should it be T&E throughout?

TIA

Jim K


Flex in conduit is fine.

--
Adam

/Flex in conduit is fine. /Q

Thanks Adam.

So to confirm, surface fixed flex isn't allowed?

Would T&E have to be in conduit too? Or can that be surface fixed?

TIA

Jim K

"JimK" wrote in message
...
/Flex in conduit is fine. /Q

Thanks Adam.

So to confirm, surface fixed flex isn't allowed?

Would T&E have to be in conduit too? Or can that be surface fixed?



Both can be surface fixed. It is generally not considered a good idea to
bury flex directly in plaster like you can with T&E.

--
Adam

Thanks again

Jim K