"ss" wrote in message
...
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the flood
does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires going
from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass the PIR
in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take it
all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if that
changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

Some of these PIR devices need a minimum current to work.
The LED floodlight may not draw enough current.
Check instructions.

I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass
the PIR in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

In article ,
ss wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)

I suspect it thinks there's too much light to need it to come on. Most of
thesee devices have adjustment so that you can turn them on in daylight for
testing




--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On 23/02/2015 13:14, charles wrote:
In ,
wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)

I suspect it thinks there's too much light to need it to come on. Most of
thesee devices have adjustment so that you can turn them on in daylight for
testing




I have played around with the settings to no avail.

On 23/02/2015 12:33, ss wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass
the PIR in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

They can take a minute to stabilise and respond. Some have their light
come on if you switch off and back on again after a second.

Otherwise it looks as if it's faulty.

On 23/02/2015 13:27, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Mon, 23 Feb 2015 13:14:44 +0000 (GMT), charles
wrote:

In ,
wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)

I suspect it thinks there's too much light to need it to come on. Most of
thesee devices have adjustment so that you can turn them on in daylight for
testing



+1
The OP should black out the photocell with something opaque and try
again.


Tried that.

On 23/02/2015 13:49, Fredxxx wrote:
On 23/02/2015 12:33, ss wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass
the PIR in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

They can take a minute to stabilise and respond. Some have their light
come on if you switch off and back on again after a second.

Otherwise it looks as if it's faulty.

I have 3 PIRs and nonework in this siuation. I doubt if all 3 are faulty.

On 23/02/2015 12:33, ss wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass
the PIR in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

you should have live, neutral and earth from the supply to the PIR, then
live neutral and earth from the PIR to the LED flood.
if you disconnect the live wire to the LED light and connect it to the
same place as the live feed, the power it on, does the LED light?

Maybe take a picture of the connections to see if there is anything
obviously wrong.


--
Toby...
Remove your pants to reply

On 23/02/2015 16:19, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 12:33, ss wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass
the PIR in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

you should have live, neutral and earth from the supply to the PIR, then
live neutral and earth from the PIR to the LED flood.
if you disconnect the live wire to the LED light and connect it to the
same place as the live feed, the power it on, does the LED light?

Maybe take a picture of the connections to see if there is anything
obviously wrong.


I havent tried switching anything yet, below is a picture of the wiring.
I have labelled to make it clearer, the 3 cables with the white dot are
coming from the mains feed as thats not clear in the image, I am also
using waggo connectors which "Cables must be the same polarity i.e all
lives or all neutrals etc."


http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps91b41338.jpg

In article ,
ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 16:19, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 12:33, ss wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass
the PIR in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

you should have live, neutral and earth from the supply to the PIR, then
live neutral and earth from the PIR to the LED flood.
if you disconnect the live wire to the LED light and connect it to the
same place as the live feed, the power it on, does the LED light?

Maybe take a picture of the connections to see if there is anything
obviously wrong.


I havent tried switching anything yet, below is a picture of the wiring.
I have labelled to make it clearer, the 3 cables with the white dot are
coming from the mains feed as thats not clear in the image, I am also
using waggo connectors which "Cables must be the same polarity i.e all
lives or all neutrals etc."


http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps91b41338.jpg

At the flood light you are, presumably feeding the light with black/red and
brown?

--
From KT24 in Surrey

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On 23/02/2015 17:06, charles wrote:
In ,
wrote:
On 23/02/2015 16:19, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 12:33, ss wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going from the PIR Live& Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass
the PIR in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

you should have live, neutral and earth from the supply to the PIR, then
live neutral and earth from the PIR to the LED flood.
if you disconnect the live wire to the LED light and connect it to the
same place as the live feed, the power it on, does the LED light?

Maybe take a picture of the connections to see if there is anything
obviously wrong.


I havent tried switching anything yet, below is a picture of the wiring.
I have labelled to make it clearer, the 3 cables with the white dot are
coming from the mains feed as thats not clear in the image, I am also
using waggo connectors which "Cables must be the same polarity i.e all
lives or all neutrals etc."


http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps91b41338.jpg

At the flood light you are, presumably feeding the light with black/red and
brown?

yes

On 23/02/2015 17:07, ss wrote:
At the flood light you are, presumably feeding the light with
black/red and
brown?

yes

Ooops just checked again.....

Blue / Black (red) / Earth

On 23/02/2015 17:15, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:07, ss wrote:
At the flood light you are, presumably feeding the light with
black/red and
brown?

yes

Ooops just checked again.....

Blue / Black (red) / Earth

That all looks fine to me.

I assume you stripped the ends of the cables before inserting them into
the Wago terminals?

If so, try connecting the black cable from the flood to the brown wago
terminal and then power it up - Does the LED light?


--
Toby...
Remove your pants to reply

On 23/02/2015 17:24, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:15, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:07, ss wrote:
At the flood light you are, presumably feeding the light with
black/red and
brown?

yes

Ooops just checked again.....

Blue / Black (red) / Earth

That all looks fine to me.

I assume you stripped the ends of the cables before inserting them into
the Wago terminals?

If so, try connecting the black cable from the flood to the brown wago
terminal and then power it up - Does the LED light?


Nope

On 23/02/2015 17:28, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:24, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:15, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:07, ss wrote:
At the flood light you are, presumably feeding the light with
black/red and
brown?

yes

Ooops just checked again.....

Blue / Black (red) / Earth

That all looks fine to me.

I assume you stripped the ends of the cables before inserting them into
the Wago terminals?

If so, try connecting the black cable from the flood to the brown wago
terminal and then power it up - Does the LED light?


Nope

Yes I did strip the cable ends before inserting, When I moved those
wires as you suggested although the flood did not light there was a
click from the PIR.

On 23/02/2015 17:31, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:28, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:24, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:15, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:07, ss wrote:
At the flood light you are, presumably feeding the light with
black/red and
brown?

yes

Ooops just checked again.....

Blue / Black (red) / Earth

That all looks fine to me.

I assume you stripped the ends of the cables before inserting them into
the Wago terminals?

If so, try connecting the black cable from the flood to the brown wago
terminal and then power it up - Does the LED light?


Nope

Yes I did strip the cable ends before inserting, When I moved those
wires as you suggested although the flood did not light there was a
click from the PIR.

Sounds like the LED light is not working then, as that has directly
powered the LED from the mains, irrespective of what the PIR is doing!

Try disconnecting everything and powering the LED only from the mains
wire and see if you can get it going.

The fact the PIR is clicking means it is getting power.

Do you have a multimeter you can use to check there is power at the
LED's power supply? (It will be 230v AC one side, and low DC the other
(like 20-50v I guess)


--
Toby...
Remove your pants to reply

On 23/02/2015 17:56, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:31, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:28, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:24, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:15, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 17:07, ss wrote:
At the flood light you are, presumably feeding the light with
black/red and
brown?

yes

Ooops just checked again.....

Blue / Black (red) / Earth

That all looks fine to me.

I assume you stripped the ends of the cables before inserting them into
the Wago terminals?

If so, try connecting the black cable from the flood to the brown wago
terminal and then power it up - Does the LED light?


Nope

Yes I did strip the cable ends before inserting, When I moved those
wires as you suggested although the flood did not light there was a
click from the PIR.

Sounds like the LED light is not working then, as that has directly
powered the LED from the mains, irrespective of what the PIR is doing!

Try disconnecting everything and powering the LED only from the mains
wire and see if you can get it going.

The fact the PIR is clicking means it is getting power.

Do you have a multimeter you can use to check there is power at the
LED's power supply? (It will be 230v AC one side, and low DC the other
(like 20-50v I guess)


I will rewire direct later tonight and post back. I dont have a mains
multi meter but have one for DC I used on motor bikes, it does allow me
to check for continuity though.

On 23/02/2015 16:49, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 16:19, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 12:33, ss wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass
the PIR in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

you should have live, neutral and earth from the supply to the PIR, then
live neutral and earth from the PIR to the LED flood.
if you disconnect the live wire to the LED light and connect it to the
same place as the live feed, the power it on, does the LED light?

Maybe take a picture of the connections to see if there is anything
obviously wrong.


I havent tried switching anything yet, below is a picture of the wiring.
I have labelled to make it clearer, the 3 cables with the white dot are
coming from the mains feed as thats not clear in the image, I am also
using waggo connectors which "Cables must be the same polarity i.e all
lives or all neutrals etc."


http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps91b41338.jpg


It looks as if the cores going to the lamp are blue (neutral) and
black/red (live). But what is at the lamp end of that cable? Is it
expecting to see live on the brown? If so, you need to swap brown for
black/red in the position marked 'A' in the RH Wago.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 23/02/2015 11:55, harryagain wrote:
wrote in message
...
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the flood
does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires going
from the PIR Live& Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass the PIR
in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take it
all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if that
changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

Some of these PIR devices need a minimum current to work.
The LED floodlight may not draw enough current.
Check instructions.


Apparently they are suitable for LED.

charles wrote:

I suspect it thinks there's too much light to need it to come on. Most of
thesee devices have adjustment so that you can turn them on in daylight for
testing

They do, but if the relay is clicking, it suggests that isn't the reason ...

On 23/02/2015 18:37, Roger Mills wrote:
On 23/02/2015 16:49, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 16:19, Toby wrote:
On 23/02/2015 12:33, ss wrote:
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass
the PIR in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

you should have live, neutral and earth from the supply to the PIR, then
live neutral and earth from the PIR to the LED flood.
if you disconnect the live wire to the LED light and connect it to the
same place as the live feed, the power it on, does the LED light?

Maybe take a picture of the connections to see if there is anything
obviously wrong.


I havent tried switching anything yet, below is a picture of the wiring.
I have labelled to make it clearer, the 3 cables with the white dot are
coming from the mains feed as thats not clear in the image, I am also
using waggo connectors which "Cables must be the same polarity i.e all
lives or all neutrals etc."


http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps91b41338.jpg



It looks as if the cores going to the lamp are blue (neutral) and
black/red (live). But what is at the lamp end of that cable? Is it
expecting to see live on the brown? If so, you need to swap brown for
black/red in the position marked 'A' in the RH Wago.

Rodger 2 posts down `wiring clarification please` shows the flood lamp
wiring.

On 23/02/2015 11:55, harryagain wrote:

Some of these PIR devices need a minimum current to work.
The LED floodlight may not draw enough current.
Check instructions.



It has a relay and will work with no load if you want.

It doesn't work because there is something wrong in the lamp or the
wires aren't connected correctly.

On 23/02/2015 19:50, ss wrote:
It looks as if the cores going to the lamp are blue (neutral) and
black/red (live). But what is at the lamp end of that cable? Is it
expecting to see live on the brown? If so, you need to swap brown for
black/red in the position marked 'A' in the RH Wago.

Rodger, below is the wiring as is on one image, including the wiring for
the flood. The original wiring in my other post was brown/blue/earth as
it was wired straight to mains for testing so I have changed that to
what it currently is.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps4cbcc468.jpg

On 23/02/2015 21:29, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 19:50, ss wrote:
It looks as if the cores going to the lamp are blue (neutral) and
black/red (live). But what is at the lamp end of that cable? Is it
expecting to see live on the brown? If so, you need to swap brown for
black/red in the position marked 'A' in the RH Wago.

Rodger, below is the wiring as is on one image, including the wiring for
the flood. The original wiring in my other post was brown/blue/earth as
it was wired straight to mains for testing so I have changed that to
what it currently is.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps4cbcc468.jpg

Rodger further to my last post, I am not too familiar with wiring but
when I try to follow the logic of the wiring as I have it then at the
PIR end there is a switched live so if the PIR triggers does that not
send a live to the brown wire (live) to the flood.

On Mon, 23 Feb 2015 19:55:21 +0000, Dennis@home wrote:

On 23/02/2015 11:55, harryagain wrote:

Some of these PIR devices need a minimum current to work.
The LED floodlight may not draw enough current.
Check instructions.



It has a relay and will work with no load if you want.

It doesn't work because there is something wrong in the lamp or the
wires aren't connected correctly.

There is a remote possibility that the fixed contact in the relay is bent a
bit. I've encountered this only a couple of times - one was the relay that
supplied the entire control circuitry for a complex test chamber. Finished
all the wiring, switched on - nothing! Checked that relay as a first point,
re-bent the contact and the whole lot worked. At least it was an easy one to
find.
However, if a direct connection to the light doesn't work either the LED's
down or the internal connection is borked somewhere.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

However , if he is hearing a click it sounds to me like its the relay type
and no such restriction should be in one of those.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"harryagain" wrote in message
...

"ss" wrote in message
...
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires going
from the PIR Live & Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass the PIR
in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take it
all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if that
changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

Some of these PIR devices need a minimum current to work.
The LED floodlight may not draw enough current.
Check instructions.

I wonder if this Pir has also got a dark switch in it, so it nees to be dark
for the pir to actually connect.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"ss" wrote in message
...
On 23/02/2015 11:55, harryagain wrote:
wrote in message
...
I have rigged up PIR to flood indoors to check it before installing
outdoors. When wired up the PIR `clicks` and also using a non contact
voltage detector it appears that live is getting through. However the
flood
does not light (LED)
To save me reconnecting everything would it be ok to take the wires
going
from the PIR Live& Live switch (leaving neutral as is) to bypass the
PIR
in order to check the flood is still working.
The flood was working ok prior to final hook up but trying not to take
it
all apart if I can check as is.

Also is it ok to reverse the live and live feed on the PIR to see if
that
changes anything.

Trying not to blow myself up so guidance appreciated.

Some of these PIR devices need a minimum current to work.
The LED floodlight may not draw enough current.
Check instructions.


Apparently they are suitable for LED.

On 24/02/2015 09:31, Brian Gaff wrote:
I wonder if this Pir has also got a dark switch in it, so it nees to be dark
for the pir to actually connect.
Brian

PIR has 3 settings lux / time / sensitivity
I have also tried at night in a darkened room.

On 23/02/2015 22:41, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 21:29, ss wrote:
On 23/02/2015 19:50, ss wrote:
It looks as if the cores going to the lamp are blue (neutral) and
black/red (live). But what is at the lamp end of that cable? Is it
expecting to see live on the brown? If so, you need to swap brown for
black/red in the position marked 'A' in the RH Wago.

Rodger, below is the wiring as is on one image, including the wiring for
the flood. The original wiring in my other post was brown/blue/earth as
it was wired straight to mains for testing so I have changed that to
what it currently is.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps4cbcc468.jpg

Rodger further to my last post, I am not too familiar with wiring but
when I try to follow the logic of the wiring as I have it then at the
PIR end there is a switched live so if the PIR triggers does that not
send a live to the brown wire (live) to the flood.

I would expect the incoming mains to use the brown (live) and blue
(neutral) conductors and the PIR switched live to be on the red conductor.

That being the case, the red and blue wires need to go to the lamp,
which appears to be what you've done - albeit using the black conductor
with red marker to carry the switched live.

So I don't know why it's not working - suggesting that either the PIR or
the lamp itself is duff. If you haven't got a mains voltmeter, you can
test the lamp (and its supply box) by connecting mains directly to it,
and you can test the PIR by connecting a known good lamp - any mains
lamp, not necessarily an LED - to it.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 23/02/2015 18:05, ss wrote:

I dont have a mains multi meter

If you have a known working table lamp try using the PIR to power it
instead of the flood. If the table lamp works then the PIR is OK and you
have either a duff transformer or flood.

--
Mike Clarke

On 24/02/2015 17:20, Roger Mills wrote:
That being the case, the red and blue wires need to go to the lamp,
which appears to be what you've done - albeit using the black conductor
with red marker to carry the switched live.

So I don't know why it's not working - suggesting that either the PIR or
the lamp itself is duff. If you haven't got a mains voltmeter, you can
test the lamp (and its supply box) by connecting mains directly to it,
and you can test the PIR by connecting a known good lamp - any mains
lamp, not necessarily an LED - to it.

Thanks Roger,

I know the flood lamp was working prior to wiring it up as I tested it.
So I will replace the flood with a table lamp and see if that works via
the PIR, either way I will then recheck the LED flood direct to mains
and see if that has now blown.
Will probably post back tomorrow with results.

thanks

"ss" wrote in message
...
On 24/02/2015 17:20, Roger Mills wrote:
That being the case, the red and blue wires need to go to the lamp,
which appears to be what you've done - albeit using the black conductor
with red marker to carry the switched live.

So I don't know why it's not working - suggesting that either the PIR or
the lamp itself is duff. If you haven't got a mains voltmeter, you can
test the lamp (and its supply box) by connecting mains directly to it,
and you can test the PIR by connecting a known good lamp - any mains
lamp, not necessarily an LED - to it.

Thanks Roger,

I know the flood lamp was working prior to wiring it up as I tested it.

But it may have died since then.

So I will replace the flood with a table lamp and see if that works via
the PIR, either way I will then recheck the LED flood direct to mains and
see if that has now blown.
Will probably post back tomorrow with results.

thanks

On 24/02/2015 19:14, Rod Speed wrote:


"ss" wrote in message
...
On 24/02/2015 17:20, Roger Mills wrote:
That being the case, the red and blue wires need to go to the lamp,
which appears to be what you've done - albeit using the black conductor
with red marker to carry the switched live.

So I don't know why it's not working - suggesting that either the PIR or
the lamp itself is duff. If you haven't got a mains voltmeter, you can
test the lamp (and its supply box) by connecting mains directly to it,
and you can test the PIR by connecting a known good lamp - any mains
lamp, not necessarily an LED - to it.

Thanks Roger,

I know the flood lamp was working prior to wiring it up as I tested it.

But it may have died since then.

So I will replace the flood with a table lamp and see if that works
via the PIR, either way I will then recheck the LED flood direct to
mains and see if that has now blown.
Will probably post back tomorrow with results.

thanks

Ok I connected a table lamp and that worked via the PIR ok. I then
connected the flood direct to the mains and its not working, strange as
it was before.
Would there be any point (or danger) with the flood if I reverse the
live and neutral connections if only to confirm it is for the bin.

"ss" wrote in message
...
On 24/02/2015 19:14, Rod Speed wrote:


"ss" wrote in message
...
On 24/02/2015 17:20, Roger Mills wrote:
That being the case, the red and blue wires need to go to the lamp,
which appears to be what you've done - albeit using the black conductor
with red marker to carry the switched live.

So I don't know why it's not working - suggesting that either the PIR
or
the lamp itself is duff. If you haven't got a mains voltmeter, you can
test the lamp (and its supply box) by connecting mains directly to it,
and you can test the PIR by connecting a known good lamp - any mains
lamp, not necessarily an LED - to it.

Thanks Roger,

I know the flood lamp was working prior to wiring it up as I tested it.

But it may have died since then.

So I will replace the flood with a table lamp and see if that works
via the PIR, either way I will then recheck the LED flood direct to
mains and see if that has now blown.
Will probably post back tomorrow with results.

Ok I connected a table lamp and that worked via the PIR ok. I then
connected the flood direct to the mains and its not working, strange as it
was before.

Everything that dies has to do that sometime.

Would there be any point (or danger) with the flood if I reverse the live
and neutral connections if only to confirm it is for the bin.

There is no danger in doing that but unlikely to be any point either,
its very unlikely to be sensitive to that and only work one way.

I'd personally open it to check if its something simple like
someone has forgotten to solder one of the wires on etc
and you should be able to make a warranty claim since
it didn’t work for long. Better not to open it if you can
get it replaced. Plenty of the chinese operations will
take your word for it having failed and just send you
a new one at no cost to you.

On 24/02/2015 20:41, Rod Speed wrote:


"ss" wrote in message
...
On 24/02/2015 19:14, Rod Speed wrote:


"ss" wrote in message
...
On 24/02/2015 17:20, Roger Mills wrote:
That being the case, the red and blue wires need to go to the lamp,
which appears to be what you've done - albeit using the black
conductor
with red marker to carry the switched live.

So I don't know why it's not working - suggesting that either the
PIR or
the lamp itself is duff. If you haven't got a mains voltmeter, you can
test the lamp (and its supply box) by connecting mains directly to it,
and you can test the PIR by connecting a known good lamp - any mains
lamp, not necessarily an LED - to it.

Thanks Roger,

I know the flood lamp was working prior to wiring it up as I tested it.

But it may have died since then.

So I will replace the flood with a table lamp and see if that works
via the PIR, either way I will then recheck the LED flood direct to
mains and see if that has now blown.
Will probably post back tomorrow with results.

Ok I connected a table lamp and that worked via the PIR ok. I then
connected the flood direct to the mains and its not working, strange
as it was before.

Everything that dies has to do that sometime.

Would there be any point (or danger) with the flood if I reverse the
live and neutral connections if only to confirm it is for the bin.

There is no danger in doing that but unlikely to be any point either,
its very unlikely to be sensitive to that and only work one way.

I'd personally open it to check if its something simple like
someone has forgotten to solder one of the wires on etc
and you should be able to make a warranty claim since
it didn’t work for long. Better not to open it if you can
get it replaced. Plenty of the chinese operations will
take your word for it having failed and just send you
a new one at no cost to you.

I will check the inside wiring. I will take the hit on them because I
bought (UK) a 20w combined PIR/flood and it went missing in the post so
they sent another out which was perfect for backyard. So thought I will
get 2 10w with seperate PIRs for better positioning in a couple of
alleyways and both have blown but as I extended the cable from the
floods and possibly screwed somewhere in the wiring I will let it go as
they were cheap enough. I will buy a couple of 10w with PIRs and just do
it from there.

It doesnt make sense though as I checked and double checked the wiring
then came on here for confirmation before I turned it on, just wish I
knew what done it.

"ss" wrote in message
...
On 24/02/2015 20:41, Rod Speed wrote:


"ss" wrote in message
...
On 24/02/2015 19:14, Rod Speed wrote:


"ss" wrote in message
...
On 24/02/2015 17:20, Roger Mills wrote:
That being the case, the red and blue wires need to go to the lamp,
which appears to be what you've done - albeit using the black
conductor
with red marker to carry the switched live.

So I don't know why it's not working - suggesting that either the
PIR or
the lamp itself is duff. If you haven't got a mains voltmeter, you
can
test the lamp (and its supply box) by connecting mains directly to
it,
and you can test the PIR by connecting a known good lamp - any mains
lamp, not necessarily an LED - to it.

Thanks Roger,

I know the flood lamp was working prior to wiring it up as I tested
it.

But it may have died since then.

So I will replace the flood with a table lamp and see if that works
via the PIR, either way I will then recheck the LED flood direct to
mains and see if that has now blown.
Will probably post back tomorrow with results.

Ok I connected a table lamp and that worked via the PIR ok. I then
connected the flood direct to the mains and its not working, strange
as it was before.

Everything that dies has to do that sometime.

Would there be any point (or danger) with the flood if I reverse the
live and neutral connections if only to confirm it is for the bin.

There is no danger in doing that but unlikely to be any point either,
its very unlikely to be sensitive to that and only work one way.

I'd personally open it to check if its something simple like
someone has forgotten to solder one of the wires on etc
and you should be able to make a warranty claim since
it didn’t work for long. Better not to open it if you can
get it replaced. Plenty of the chinese operations will
take your word for it having failed and just send you
a new one at no cost to you.

I will check the inside wiring. I will take the hit on them because I
bought (UK) a 20w combined PIR/flood and it went missing in the post so
they sent another out which was perfect for backyard. So thought I will
get 2 10w with seperate PIRs for better positioning in a couple of
alleyways and both have blown but as I extended the cable from the floods
and possibly screwed somewhere in the wiring I will let it go as they were
cheap enough. I will buy a couple of 10w with PIRs and just do it from
there.

It doesnt make sense though as I checked and double checked the wiring
then came on here for confirmation before I turned it on, just wish I knew
what done it.

Likely its just badly made and someone has forgotten to solder a connection
or to screw up a choc block.

On 24/02/2015 21:41, Rod Speed wrote:
Likely its just badly made and someone has forgotten to solder a connection
or to screw up a choc block.

After my last post I thought just keep quiet, but I now hang my head in
shame for all that tried to help as it was my fault.
On doing a final check as advised on the wiring inside the flood I found
that because I had used 4 core (waiting on new cable from ebay) which
was at hand I was using the `black` as the live switch, however, inside
the flood I had used the brown and at the other end of that length of
cable used the `black`

I am a self confessed idiot who apologises to all for spending time
trying to resolve this problem. :-(

All is now working. :-)

On 24/02/2015 21:07, ss wrote:


It doesnt make sense though as I checked and double checked the wiring
then came on here for confirmation before I turned it on, just wish I
knew what done it.

It's unlikely to be anything you did - it just died! A lot of electrical
equipment has a bath-tub shaped reliability curve - showing a lot of
failures in the early days. Any that survive the first few operations
usually go on to last for a long time. This happens a lot with
conventional light bulbs. Any slight manufacturing defect means that
they go pop the first or second time they are turned on. Something
similar could easily apply to your LED kit.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 24/02/2015 23:06, ss wrote:
On 24/02/2015 21:41, Rod Speed wrote:
Likely its just badly made and someone has forgotten to solder a
connection
or to screw up a choc block.

After my last post I thought just keep quiet, but I now hang my head in
shame for all that tried to help as it was my fault.
On doing a final check as advised on the wiring inside the flood I found
that because I had used 4 core (waiting on new cable from ebay) which
was at hand I was using the `black` as the live switch, however, inside
the flood I had used the brown and at the other end of that length of
cable used the `black`

I am a self confessed idiot who apologises to all for spending time
trying to resolve this problem. :-(

All is now working. :-)

Good! That was one of the possibilities which I suggested!
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 25/02/2015 12:12, Roger Mills wrote:
On 24/02/2015 23:06, ss wrote:
On 24/02/2015 21:41, Rod Speed wrote:
Likely its just badly made and someone has forgotten to solder a
connection
or to screw up a choc block.

After my last post I thought just keep quiet, but I now hang my head in
shame for all that tried to help as it was my fault.
On doing a final check as advised on the wiring inside the flood I found
that because I had used 4 core (waiting on new cable from ebay) which
was at hand I was using the `black` as the live switch, however, inside
the flood I had used the brown and at the other end of that length of
cable used the `black`

I am a self confessed idiot who apologises to all for spending time
trying to resolve this problem. :-(

All is now working. :-)

Good! That was one of the possibilities which I suggested!

Which is why I tried it :-) Thanks for all the help.