Waterproof junction box
 

I am planning to replace an external floodlight (Tubular Quartz Halogen)
with a LED version.
I note that most are supplied with a fitted length of flex.

My current light is fed directly by 2 single + Earth cables entering the
bottom of the lamp.

I am thinking that I should plan to route these into a junction box and
connect the new floodlight into the JB.

Will the usual waterproof glands seal two singles? - or should I take them
into two adjacent entries of the junction box.

Waterproof junction box
 

On 17/11/2014 15:18, DerbyBorn wrote:
I am planning to replace an external floodlight (Tubular Quartz Halogen)
with a LED version.
I note that most are supplied with a fitted length of flex.

My current light is fed directly by 2 single + Earth cables entering the
bottom of the lamp.

I am thinking that I should plan to route these into a junction box and
connect the new floodlight into the JB.

Will the usual waterproof glands seal two singles? - or should I take them
into two adjacent entries of the junction box.


If you want total waterproof, then I would put them into or through 2
separate entries, using the appropriate glands etc.

Waterproof junction box
 

On 17/11/2014 16:18, BobH wrote:
On 17/11/2014 15:18, DerbyBorn wrote:
I am planning to replace an external floodlight (Tubular Quartz Halogen)
with a LED version.
I note that most are supplied with a fitted length of flex.

My current light is fed directly by 2 single + Earth cables entering the
bottom of the lamp.

I am thinking that I should plan to route these into a junction box and
connect the new floodlight into the JB.

Will the usual waterproof glands seal two singles? - or should I take
them
into two adjacent entries of the junction box.


If you want total waterproof, then I would put them into or through 2
separate entries, using the appropriate glands etc.

Agreed. But if the glands are facing downwards and you have a drip loop
on the cables, and you are not going to pressure wash it a single entry
might well be OK. Especially with a splodge of silicone sealant or grease.

Waterproof junction box
 

newshound wrote:

Agreed. But if the glands are facing downwards and you have a drip loop
on the cables, and you are not going to pressure wash it a single entry
might well be OK. Especially with a splodge of silicone sealant or grease.

I did mine with the cable entries facing downwards a few years ago and
they've been fine. Didn't use any sealant. Lots of TV aerial amps etc
are open on the lower surface and they don't have a problem. Some years
ago I had repeated trouble with a 'sealed' CCTV camera housing that was
always misting up, despite the heater working. In the end as a kill or
cure I drilled four 6mm holes in the bottom face. It's been fine ever
since. Of course insects could be a problem.

Bill

Waterproof junction box
 

In article 6,
DerbyBorn writes:
I am planning to replace an external floodlight (Tubular Quartz Halogen)
with a LED version.
I note that most are supplied with a fitted length of flex.

My current light is fed directly by 2 single + Earth cables entering the
bottom of the lamp.

Do you mean a twin and earth cable?
It should not have unsheathed singles exposed, so I'm not clear
on your current setup. A pointer to a picture might help.

I am thinking that I should plan to route these into a junction box and
connect the new floodlight into the JB.

Will the usual waterproof glands seal two singles? - or should I take them
into two adjacent entries of the junction box.

You can get glands to seal anything, including flat twin and earth cable.
What you described isn't 'usual' though, or I'm not understanding what
you are describing.

If cable entry is at the bottom (with drips loops as someone else said),
the cable entry doesn't need to be waterproof, a and would serve as the
drip hole you should have in the junction box anyway, although some type
of strain relief is likely to be requird.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Waterproof junction box
 

(Andrew Gabriel) wrote in
:

In article 6,
DerbyBorn writes:
I am planning to replace an external floodlight (Tubular Quartz
Halogen) with a LED version.
I note that most are supplied with a fitted length of flex.

My current light is fed directly by 2 single + Earth cables entering
the bottom of the lamp.

Do you mean a twin and earth cable?
It should not have unsheathed singles exposed, so I'm not clear
on your current setup. A pointer to a picture might help.

I am thinking that I should plan to route these into a junction box
and connect the new floodlight into the JB.

Will the usual waterproof glands seal two singles? - or should I take
them into two adjacent entries of the junction box.

You can get glands to seal anything, including flat twin and earth
cable. What you described isn't 'usual' though, or I'm not
understanding what you are describing.

If cable entry is at the bottom (with drips loops as someone else
said), the cable entry doesn't need to be waterproof, a and would
serve as the drip hole you should have in the junction box anyway,
although some type of strain relief is likely to be requird.


It is fed by a pair of grey sheathed single and earth cables. The cables
come out of the wall - were left like that by the builder. I merely fed
them into a floodlight. I have just taken this in the dark:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/45vcx4rz10...82%29.jpg?dl=0

Waterproof junction box
 

In article 6,
DerbyBorn writes:
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote in
:

In article 6,
DerbyBorn writes:
I am planning to replace an external floodlight (Tubular Quartz
Halogen) with a LED version.
I note that most are supplied with a fitted length of flex.

My current light is fed directly by 2 single + Earth cables entering
the bottom of the lamp.

Do you mean a twin and earth cable?
It should not have unsheathed singles exposed, so I'm not clear
on your current setup. A pointer to a picture might help.

It is fed by a pair of grey sheathed single and earth cables. The cables
come out of the wall - were left like that by the builder. I merely fed
them into a floodlight. I have just taken this in the dark:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/45vcx4rz10...82%29.jpg?dl=0

That looks like bell wire, but if it really is sheathed singles
(which were sometimes used for wiring lighting circuits), then
that's OK. I suggest running them into the bottom of a junction
box, without trying to seal. You would be able to find a gland
for the single neutral, but it would be harder for the profile
of the sheathed live and earth cable.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Waterproof junction box
 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/45vcx4rz10...82%29.jpg?dl=0

That looks like bell wire, but if it really is sheathed singles
(which were sometimes used for wiring lighting circuits), then
that's OK. I suggest running them into the bottom of a junction
box, without trying to seal. You would be able to find a gland
for the single neutral, but it would be harder for the profile
of the sheathed live and earth cable.


1988 Build.

Waterproof junction box
 

In article 2,
DerbyBorn writes:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/45vcx4rz10...82%29.jpg?dl=0

That looks like bell wire, but if it really is sheathed singles
(which were sometimes used for wiring lighting circuits), then
that's OK. I suggest running them into the bottom of a junction
box, without trying to seal. You would be able to find a gland
for the single neutral, but it would be harder for the profile
of the sheathed live and earth cable.

1988 Build.

That's quite late for sheathed singles installations.
It was done so the neutral just ran between the fittings and the
live ran between the switches, with a switched live hopping from
each switch to a light fitting.

It stopped being used because separation of the live and neutral
creates lots of 1-turn magnetic coils, which cause interference
with anything which might pick this up - hearing aid induction
loops being such an example, but when light dimmers were used,
AM radio bands become unusable too.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Waterproof junction box
 

(Andrew Gabriel) wrote in news:m4f4q3$qen$1
@dont-email.me:

In article 2,
DerbyBorn writes:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/45vcx4rz10...82%29.jpg?dl=0

That looks like bell wire, but if it really is sheathed singles
(which were sometimes used for wiring lighting circuits), then
that's OK. I suggest running them into the bottom of a junction
box, without trying to seal. You would be able to find a gland
for the single neutral, but it would be harder for the profile
of the sheathed live and earth cable.

1988 Build.

That's quite late for sheathed singles installations.
It was done so the neutral just ran between the fittings and the
live ran between the switches, with a switched live hopping from
each switch to a light fitting.

It stopped being used because separation of the live and neutral
creates lots of 1-turn magnetic coils, which cause interference
with anything which might pick this up - hearing aid induction
loops being such an example, but when light dimmers were used,
AM radio bands become unusable too.


It is not the way the whole house is wired - only the feed out through the
wall to this light.

Waterproof junction box
 

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article 2,
DerbyBorn writes:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/45vcx4rz10...82%29.jpg?dl=0

That looks like bell wire, but if it really is sheathed singles
(which were sometimes used for wiring lighting circuits), then
that's OK. I suggest running them into the bottom of a junction
box, without trying to seal. You would be able to find a gland
for the single neutral, but it would be harder for the profile
of the sheathed live and earth cable.

1988 Build.

That's quite late for sheathed singles installations.


Is it? Doncaster council were still using them on their installs in 2000

And I just used them to first fix the downstairs of a 3 bed semi (very
little seperation of the cables but a much neater second fix for the
multigang switches)

--
Adam