As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but
it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

wrote:
As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but
it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

You can get wireless switches

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LMEST1.html

Owain

In article ,
writes

There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

Run them off a fused spur from a socket, then put a separate switch
where you want it.

The idiots that fitted the kitchen in my house put a fused switched spur
in the most inaccessible place they could find and didn't bother
installing a separate switch, which meant reaching behind the microwave
to switch the lights on and off.

I fitted a separate switch in a more accessible location, and put it on
the underside of the cupboards so it is hidden (for neatness). Ran the
cable behind the voids at the back of the wall cabinets.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 1:07:38 PM UTC, wrote:
As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but
it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

If you've got a switch feeding the location and a live at the lighting end, you can split 1 feed into 2 by having switch 1 feed the cable via a diode one way, and switch 2 feed it via a diode the other way round. At the lighting end, use 2 relays with diodes to decode the logic.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but
it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

Bite the bullet and put the switch where you actually want it. Anything
else will lead to regrets each time you use it.

--
*Black holes are where God divided by zero *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

wrote in message
...
wrote:
As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but
it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

You can get wireless switches

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LMEST1.html


A friend recently added plinth and cornice lighting to his kitchen. He
already had pelmet lighting.

Power was available to all places -via different circuits- but there was no
switching available. He used remote control sockets.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/remote-con...s-5-pack-n38hn and
also added the centre light and pelmet to the set up

--
Adam

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Bite the bullet and put the switch where you actually want it. Anything
else will lead to regrets each time you use it.

Agreed.

Depending on the size of the kitchen, several switches might be better so
you needn't have all the lights on at once. Architrave switches are quite a
lot more compact than 'normal' wall-plate ones.

--
Jeremy C B Nicoll - my opinions are my own.

Email sent to my from-address will be deleted. Instead, please reply
to replacing "aaa" by "284".

wrote:
As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but
it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

I assume you'd prefer a two-gang switch and this is entirely possible
without running extra cables to the switch. I have similar arrangements
in several rooms (not kitchens), where one gang operates the main
ceiling light (not often used) and the other gang operates table- and
floor-standing lights.

The system I use is EasySwitch:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ex/EasySwitch/

It's not cheap but it works well and looks perfect. I use LM EST1 Wall
Switches connected to one of the two gangs. In one case it was a solid
wall so I fitted a deeper back box for the transmitter, and in another
case it was a studding wall so I dangled the transmitter in the cavity.
For the receiver I used plug-in adapters but you could probably more
neatly use the (unnecessarily weatherproof) wire-in units.

--
Mike Barnes
Cheshire, England

On Wed, 26 Mar 2014 18:01:25 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting,
but it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch

Bite the bullet and put the switch where you actually want it. Anything
else will lead to regrets each time you use it.

Yup.

If you're refitting the entire kitchen, how hard can it be to run one
extra cable, really?

On 26/03/2014 13:07, wrote:
As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?


If your budget allows:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ere/index.html

Colin Bignell

On 26/03/2014 22:26, Nightjar wrote:
On 26/03/2014 13:07, wrote:
As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting,
but it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?


If your budget allows:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ere/index.html


Colin Bignell

Very nice, but this is a fairly modest kitchen (and not mine!)

On 26/03/2014 20:33, Adrian wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2014 18:01:25 +0000, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting,
but it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch

Bite the bullet and put the switch where you actually want it. Anything
else will lead to regrets each time you use it.

Yup.

If you're refitting the entire kitchen, how hard can it be to run one
extra cable, really?

That's what my conscience is telling me but it means: emptying the room
above, lifting the flooring, making holes in the floor, stripping-off
plasterboard to get past the noggins (or making holes), etc. The
alternative is to put a small switch under each of two cupboards!

On 26/03/2014 17:37, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 1:07:38 PM UTC, wrote:
As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but
it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

If you've got a switch feeding the location and a live at the lighting end, you can split 1 feed into 2 by having switch 1 feed the cable via a diode one way, and switch 2 feed it via a diode the other way round. At the lighting end, use 2 relays with diodes to decode the logic.


NT


An interesting idea, but if I was to go to the bother of lifting parts
of the floor above to get to the switched live I may as well run a
second cable - although it might reduce the work slightly.

On 26/03/2014 18:12, ARW wrote:
wrote in message
...
wrote:
As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but
it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

You can get wireless switches

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LMEST1.html


A friend recently added plinth and cornice lighting to his kitchen. He
already had pelmet lighting.

Power was available to all places -via different circuits- but there was
no switching available. He used remote control sockets.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/remote-con...s-5-pack-n38hn
and also added the centre light and pelmet to the set up


That (and the TLC and other) is a nice system but the cost mounts up.
This is a "modest" kitchen, and not mine.

On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 11:46:50 PM UTC, wrote:
On 26/03/2014 17:37, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 1:07:38 PM UTC, wrote:

As part of the kitchen re-fit I need to fit under-cupboard lighting, but
it's going to be a pain to run extra cables to the light switch
(assuming I replace it with a 2 gang) and I don't want to have the
cupboard lights switched with the room light.
There's power available at the cupboards so I was wondering about just
using local switching, but are there any other ideas I should consider?

If you've got a switch feeding the location and a live at the lighting end, you can split 1 feed into 2 by having switch 1 feed the cable via a diode one way, and switch 2 feed it via a diode the other way round. At the lighting end, use 2 relays with diodes to decode the logic.

An interesting idea, but if I was to go to the bother of lifting parts
of the floor above to get to the switched live I may as well run a
second cable - although it might reduce the work slightly.

Do you mean the 2 lighting points are far apart?

How about another simple option: Feed the lightswitch with 6v, and run enamelled copper wire from that to relays at the lighting points in 1-3mm deep grooves in the ceiling/wall cut with a knife. Smear filler over and Robert's your relative.


NT

If it's under a cupboard, then surely they are very low wattage
lights, so what I'd do is fit something that can be supplied
with low-current flex with a miniature in-line switch, or a
light fitting with build-in switch. This is what I used in my
bedroom cupboard:
http://www.sparksdirect.co.uk/image/...ghts/uslt5.jpg
and the flex neatly disappears through the wall to a SFS.

jgh